Way too often we see pictures of overly tight fitting coats with what is now called "collo Americano"!
So I finally figured I'd give a little introduction in what makes a good, well fitting jacket.
In several instalments I'll try to explain which parts of a jacket are crucial for that.
For a pattern we need measurements, with modern systems it's usually chest, waist, hips, sleeve length and body height. That's enough to start with a proportionate pattern draft. I won't go into details, since you are not going to draft your own pattern, but know that each system uses formulas to work out the remaining necessary measurements like back and shoulder width and so on.
For a RTW pattern the measurements used are based on average sizes, based on chest circumference. To get an average several thousand men (and women) were measured up and the average of all measurements put in a chart. To those basic body measurements a pattern maker will add a certain amount of ease, which, based on the...
As all ten thousand of you know... I started on this journey about half a year ago. The plan if there was one was to document my sartorial adventure through the mecca of tailoring (Italy), become one of the worlds leading suit scientists/sartorial explorers and somehow turn that into a viable business.
So how did my second trip go? I tried out two new tailors (Rodolfo Cisternino of Firenze and Davide Tofani of Napoli) and went back to one I tried before (Mimmo Pirozzi of Via Chiaia 197 Sartodinapoli ). That you guys all probably knew. What you really wanted though were the pictures. More detailed writeups to come... someday soon hopefully...
These pictures were taken by my lovely wife who reluctantly participates in my narcissistic activities.
Mimmo Pirozzi #2
Marco Cerrato pants
In here I'll post some images and provide info and education on what it is we do, what is planned soon and what we aim to achieve for the future.
Henry Carter (my grandfathers name) was started in late 2011, I'd wanted to have my own label for a long time and had just sold my first apartment, some spare cash was available and then was the time otherwise it would never happen.
I have over 16 years experience in the menswear industry in various roles and companies, working mostly in the tailored clothing area.
We are in a bit of an expansion phase at the moment, with some wholesale retailers coming on board and a few more in the next 6 months lined up. Ties were our first foray and since then we've done (a bit half heartedly) cashmere scarves, gloves and socks. This season (S/S in Australia) I'm focussing mostly on ties and pocket squares and suspenders but for next F/W there are going to be a lot of new additions including more of the above but cashmere scarves, beanies and...
Everyone is welcome to post something menswear related that they appreciate, either an outfit or a good/informative/otherwise interesting post about menswear.To actually spawn discussion (and perhaps even some interesting insights), it's good if you motivate why you find the post agreeable.
I'll start by posting this outfit by Tchoy/Linden Way.
This is a very nicely fitting suit with good proportions, i.e. a well balanced lapel width for his frame, good amount of nipping in the waist (without being effeminate), nice draping, well executed shoulder construction (I would have added just a tiny bit more padding to square them out a bit, but that's a personal preference), good length on the trousers with just a slight break et c, et c.
ITT, stuff from outside our hallowed gates that we disagree with.
WTF? That makes no sense. Ideally one would add better snark here, but this is so goofy that elaboration escapes me.
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