ConchitaWurst
Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
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Just some random quotes from the interview NMWA's David Isle had with the heir to the London House. This guy seems totally out of touch with the world.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/407073/interview-with-luca-rubinacci-at-pitti-uomo-part-1/0_30
http://www.styleforum.net/t/407658/interview-with-luca-rubinacci-part-2/0_30
http://www.styleforum.net/t/410181/interview-with-luca-rubinacci-part-3/0_30
Because today, every brand has written down, "true Neapolitan tailor house" - it's like the "true Neapolitan pizza." But a pizza is a pizza. So you have to make the difference in this. Because everybody knows about the quality, but today what is the quality? This (indicating the suit he is wearing) is a shantung silk with linen. This only a collector can appreciate, like a hobby. If not, go to Boggi. I am a 48; wherever I go, the jacket fits me
Everyone asks me this - they say, "Luca we never understand your style, because it's always changing." But I always reply that I'm like an ice cream maker.
I always push hard, but I always think that I'm on the edge. I try to be on the edge.
One of the best compliments I've had was from a politician in Kazakstan. Everyone was at a round table with some important Russian politicians. Of the seven men there, five were dressed by Rubinacci. The politician said, "You five, you are all dressed very well, who are your tailors?" Upon finding that they all used Rubinacci, he was amazed that each could look so good but so different. This means that we are dressing people to look different.
And this year we count 15 young tailors, between 18 and 22, that are incredible. They are giving me the pleasure of dressing differently. Whenever there is something that the old tailors don't want to do, they are the first ones to say, "Luca, don't worry - I will try it." This is the future. The new generation is more open - sometimes too open.
Today the marketing around that word is strange, which is why I made a short movie that will out in October for the opening of our new store in Milan. This new store will be like a club for gentleman.
The movie shows the 54 hours that it takes to make a Rubinacci suit. We filmed every single passage, which I hope will give people a lot to talk about.
When I go to Hong Kong, and I see beautiful tailors doing a great job in two days, how can you compare? It takes us 60 hours to make a suit.
We want to arrive to the mass. But maybe step-by-step. Rubinacci is like Hermes for bags, and we want to keep it like that. But we do some collaborations with friends. Through collaboration is how we can arrive to the masses. I will never sell a jacket for 100 euro. But maybe I will make a collection for H&M, signed by Rubinacci. This is the right way to do it; you cannot cannibalize your own brand.
In this case, this suit is very powerful. So if I wore a light blue or white shirt, I would be giving all the power to the suit. To make the suit less powerful, I have to have something underneath it that is also powerful. Everything combines together. I love contrast - you will never see me matching colors, because I think it's too sample.
I remember when I was 20 telling my father that I wanted to start wearing ties; my first couple of years of working I didn't wear ties. I asked how many ties I could take, and he told me to take ten ties. Ten ties was a lot, but it was not enough. So I asked my father if I could wear a different tie every day for one year, and then after that decide which ten I wanted. He told me, in two weeks you'll want to wear something for a second time. So we made a bet. And in two days I already wanted to re-wear one of the ties.
But I forced myself to keep wearing different ties. And I finally understood that you can wear any tie with any jacket. The thing is that you have to be comfortable with wearing it. After a year, I had taught myself how to wear ties. Today, if a customer comes, I am able to sell a customer twenty ties because I know how to wear them.
I remember at the beginning, on Styleforum and everything, people were saying, "Oh Luca, he is making a mess of everything." Because it was different, not wrong, but, in the eyes of a gentleman, I was a different man. But if you look at pictures from the 30s or 40s, the dandy was like that. Today we are not dandies because today is too spread out, with sportswear and classic tailored clothing.
I think I am able to transfer a lifestyle concept, that is more than just suggesting something in particular. It's a way of dressing, not a particular thing to wear. I would never tell a customer what he has to wear. I will let him understand it for himself. If I say to him, "wear a brown tie," maybe he goes home and says, "Okay, I have to wear a brown tie because Luca said so." And he will only wear it with that particular shirt that I told him to wear it with.
It's not me, you don't have to copy my style. I'm me, but you can never be someone else. You have to be yourself.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/407073/interview-with-luca-rubinacci-at-pitti-uomo-part-1/0_30
http://www.styleforum.net/t/407658/interview-with-luca-rubinacci-part-2/0_30
http://www.styleforum.net/t/410181/interview-with-luca-rubinacci-part-3/0_30
Because today, every brand has written down, "true Neapolitan tailor house" - it's like the "true Neapolitan pizza." But a pizza is a pizza. So you have to make the difference in this. Because everybody knows about the quality, but today what is the quality? This (indicating the suit he is wearing) is a shantung silk with linen. This only a collector can appreciate, like a hobby. If not, go to Boggi. I am a 48; wherever I go, the jacket fits me
Everyone asks me this - they say, "Luca we never understand your style, because it's always changing." But I always reply that I'm like an ice cream maker.
I always push hard, but I always think that I'm on the edge. I try to be on the edge.
One of the best compliments I've had was from a politician in Kazakstan. Everyone was at a round table with some important Russian politicians. Of the seven men there, five were dressed by Rubinacci. The politician said, "You five, you are all dressed very well, who are your tailors?" Upon finding that they all used Rubinacci, he was amazed that each could look so good but so different. This means that we are dressing people to look different.
And this year we count 15 young tailors, between 18 and 22, that are incredible. They are giving me the pleasure of dressing differently. Whenever there is something that the old tailors don't want to do, they are the first ones to say, "Luca, don't worry - I will try it." This is the future. The new generation is more open - sometimes too open.
Today the marketing around that word is strange, which is why I made a short movie that will out in October for the opening of our new store in Milan. This new store will be like a club for gentleman.
The movie shows the 54 hours that it takes to make a Rubinacci suit. We filmed every single passage, which I hope will give people a lot to talk about.
When I go to Hong Kong, and I see beautiful tailors doing a great job in two days, how can you compare? It takes us 60 hours to make a suit.
We want to arrive to the mass. But maybe step-by-step. Rubinacci is like Hermes for bags, and we want to keep it like that. But we do some collaborations with friends. Through collaboration is how we can arrive to the masses. I will never sell a jacket for 100 euro. But maybe I will make a collection for H&M, signed by Rubinacci. This is the right way to do it; you cannot cannibalize your own brand.
In this case, this suit is very powerful. So if I wore a light blue or white shirt, I would be giving all the power to the suit. To make the suit less powerful, I have to have something underneath it that is also powerful. Everything combines together. I love contrast - you will never see me matching colors, because I think it's too sample.
I remember when I was 20 telling my father that I wanted to start wearing ties; my first couple of years of working I didn't wear ties. I asked how many ties I could take, and he told me to take ten ties. Ten ties was a lot, but it was not enough. So I asked my father if I could wear a different tie every day for one year, and then after that decide which ten I wanted. He told me, in two weeks you'll want to wear something for a second time. So we made a bet. And in two days I already wanted to re-wear one of the ties.
But I forced myself to keep wearing different ties. And I finally understood that you can wear any tie with any jacket. The thing is that you have to be comfortable with wearing it. After a year, I had taught myself how to wear ties. Today, if a customer comes, I am able to sell a customer twenty ties because I know how to wear them.
I remember at the beginning, on Styleforum and everything, people were saying, "Oh Luca, he is making a mess of everything." Because it was different, not wrong, but, in the eyes of a gentleman, I was a different man. But if you look at pictures from the 30s or 40s, the dandy was like that. Today we are not dandies because today is too spread out, with sportswear and classic tailored clothing.
I think I am able to transfer a lifestyle concept, that is more than just suggesting something in particular. It's a way of dressing, not a particular thing to wear. I would never tell a customer what he has to wear. I will let him understand it for himself. If I say to him, "wear a brown tie," maybe he goes home and says, "Okay, I have to wear a brown tie because Luca said so." And he will only wear it with that particular shirt that I told him to wear it with.
It's not me, you don't have to copy my style. I'm me, but you can never be someone else. You have to be yourself.