The iGent's Guide to the Galaxy

Thread starter #1

WeakMonday

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
315
Ratings
496
This thread is dedicated to the guys that read this forum.

As all ten thousand of you know... I started on this journey about half a year ago. The plan if there was one was to document my sartorial adventure through the mecca of tailoring (Italy), become one of the worlds leading suit scientists/sartorial explorers and somehow turn that into a viable business.

So how did my second trip go? I tried out two new tailors (Rodolfo Cisternino of Firenze and Davide Tofani of Napoli) and went back to one I tried before (Mimmo Pirozzi of Via Chiaia 197 Sartodinapoli ). That you guys all probably knew. What you really wanted though were the pictures. More detailed writeups to come... someday soon hopefully...

These pictures were taken by my lovely wife who reluctantly participates in my narcissistic activities.

Mimmo Pirozzi #2
DSCF7747.JPG


Marco Cerrato pants
DSCF7768.JPG
DSCF7769.JPG


Davide Tofani
DSCF7773.JPG


Rodolfo Cisternino
DSCF7793.JPG

Gianni Volpe
DSCF7808.JPG

Giacca Cinese
DSCF7818.JPG

DSCF7822.JPG


Feel free to ask me any questions or just flame away!
 
Last edited:
Thread starter #4

WeakMonday

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
315
Ratings
496
I hate taking photos haha. You should've seen me on the third day of a three day wedding photoshoot at a wedding photo factory
 
Last edited:

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
5,959
Ratings
2,928
I'd recommend charcoal pants instead with the eggplant jacket to avoid Pittiful color combos. The first tie's too long for you.
 
Thread starter #6

WeakMonday

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
315
Ratings
496
Oh that Chinese jacket was to show how bad it is compared to the others... I don't plan to wear it anymore haha...
 

ConchitaWurst

Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
Messages
6,069
Ratings
16,927
nice you created this thread

the pirozzi of via chiaia 197 always, looks nice

so does the tofani (you know that he is gay or bisexual at best and hit on Sartodinapoli through facebook?) but how does it look when you close it?

the volpe and cisternino do not really impress. the dimple at buttoning point of the cisternino is always there?

what difference do you experience between the jackets? structure, weight, ease?
 
Thread starter #11

WeakMonday

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
315
Ratings
496
The Tofani closes pretty well I think.. a bit of pulling.

The Cisternino does look a bit weird when buttoned... I want to break it in a bit and see how the fit develops if it does and post another pic in maybe 6 months.

In terms of structure... I'd say that they all seem to be pretty lightly structured even the Cisternino. In terms of ease from most to least it would be something like Volpe, Pirozzi/Cisternino and then Tofani. I actually think the Swedes would probably love Tofani's slim house cut (he showed me something he had made for himself twenty some years ago that looked virtually the same in terms of silhouette... so I imagine it is his specialty).

The Pirozzi is the heaviest just because it is a 17 ounce tweed.
 
Last edited:

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
Messages
5,617
Ratings
5,502
weekmonday - I'm kinda lacking a context to all this....

Last I knew you were a struggling student or something starting up a MTM suit business in Washington without any experience in any part of the industry..

Point me to the backstory..
 

Russell Street

King Of The Trolls
Supporter
Messages
6,461
Ratings
3,623
I'm amateur hour here, but I have the following observations to take with a grain of salt.
The Pirozzi, which I generally like, has an oddly narrow collar with respect to the lapel, and the dart is oddly prominent and not flat. Collar seems high in the back?
The Cerrato pants seem fine, and is that a back strap?
Cisternino looks best on the neck and shoulders, a tad roomy at the waist?
The Cinese has oddly cornered shoulders. I hate to be all SF talking about divots, but the pic seems to be focusing on it.
Any other comment I'd have would be about my personal taste, so generally I have few complaints.
 
Thread starter #15

WeakMonday

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
315
Ratings
496
Yea the darts for the Pirozzi seem prominent because (I think) of the fabric which is quite thick. The collar is pretty high.

The Cerrato pants had the back strap added in after I saw these awesome horn buckles that Marco had put in another guys pants. I steal with my eyes.

Yes the Cisternino is roomy at the waist.

Yea I didn't really give my wife any instructions when taking pics of the Chinese suit... it just happened to turn out that way. The back is even worse. I'm actually embarrassed that I wore that around on my first Italian trip.
 
Thread starter #16

WeakMonday

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
315
Ratings
496
fxh fxh I'm actually a student of the sartorial sciences that's struggling with weight issues... originally planning to start a mto+/mtm- (suits, shirts, shoes, ties) program in DC... but looking more and more likely that I might be doing it in Shanghai.
 
Last edited:

FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,255
Ratings
9,484
WeakMonday WeakMonday i think the pirozzi looks great. why did you decide to do the rounded shirt shoulder with him? i assume you told him you wanted it that way. I think it was a very good choice, but he is more famous for the saddle shoulder and/or his shoulder with rolino.
 
Thread starter #18

WeakMonday

Well-Known Member
Supporter
Messages
315
Ratings
496
I suppose it's because I've been poisoned by SF to like this shoulder the most haha. When I first met him in January in Florence through Mr. Passaggio Cravatte... I just said to Mimmo... spalla rotunda... spalla morbida, spalla piu larghe and then showed him a picture of Taka from Liverano. Then while making it (my #1 in Solaro)... he asked if I wanted it as a spalla normale or a spalla camicia... and I told him camicia... one because I think it looks awesome and two because I think spalla camicia just moves better and is like the anti shoulder divot.

This second suit... I just relayed Gianni the fabric number I wanted and to make the suit the same as last time... But near the end, Mimmo decided to do a more elegant version of spalla camicia (in his words) which turned out really nice. After which there was a discussion about how I should pick lighter fabrics. Haha
 

LKP

Troll Treasurer
Messages
4,988
Ratings
12,262
You do a lot to restore the image of Mr. Taylorze of Always Via Chiaia 197
Ever tried the Eboli Jewellery shop nearby? Lots of stuff to make women shut up for very low prices

The Tofani is not even too funny... it looks good indeed

I demand more pictures of the Volpe suit. I cannot really judge this one.

The fact that the Cisterno picture is cut off at the bottom doesnt help either...

The same kind of pictures for all suits would be great. Full body shot, jacket shot, trouser shot - good illumination everywhere
 

Mcdonald

Well-Known Member
Messages
372
Ratings
726
Cisternino looks shapeless and the lapel roll is unremarkable for bespoke. Don't know what is going on with the Volpe, top looks full but pants kinda taper like a pencil. Definitely need clear pictures of both suits.

Pirozzi and Tofani are both nice and well worth whatever you paid for them.
 

ConchitaWurst

Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
Messages
6,069
Ratings
16,927
Cisternino looks shapeless and the lapel roll is unremarkable for bespoke. Don't know what is going on with the Volpe, top looks full but pants kinda taper like a pencil. Definitely need clear pictures of both suits.

Pirozzi and Tofani are both nice and well worth whatever you paid for them.
volpe is just a very nice guy but not such a good tailor
 

LKP

Troll Treasurer
Messages
4,988
Ratings
12,262
Cisternino looks shapeless and the lapel roll is unremarkable for bespoke. Don't know what is going on with the Volpe, top looks full but pants kinda taper like a pencil. Definitely need clear pictures of both suits.

Pirozzi and Tofani are both nice and well worth whatever you paid for them.
EUR500 for the tailor
+
EUR1.000 for Gianni C.
+
EUR1.500 for FriendCustomer FriendCustomer
=
Price for WeakMonday WeakMonday
 

ConchitaWurst

Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
Messages
6,069
Ratings
16,927
Oh, he hates FriendCustomer FriendCustomer too so he should not feel left out. He is high up on the hit list with the regulars and Henry Carter.
henry carter on shitlist? of all the assies? why? UNties?

youre still in contact with the humble arthisan? last contact we had was the list of spanish literature he sent me, which - he confirmed - he did in an effort to cure me. i love his caring nature
 

LKP

Troll Treasurer
Messages
4,988
Ratings
12,262
henry carter on shitlist? of all the assies? why? UNties?

youre still in contact with the humble arthisan? last contact we had was the list of spanish literature he sent me, which - he confirmed - he did in an effort to cure me. i love his caring nature
una cerveza por favor
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
18,808
Ratings
23,726
henry carter on shitlist? of all the assies? why? UNties?

youre still in contact with the humble arthisan? last contact we had was the list of spanish literature he sent me, which - he confirmed - he did in an effort to cure me. i love his caring nature
Yes I got the literature too so i could save my evil Jewish soul.

Henry Carter failed to return a PM about how to photograph better and the. Called him "mad" so he is on the shit list + he does RTW ties, which as we all know, quality can be assessed by looking at tiny pictures on a fucked up mobile or on a quality monitor at a Napoli Internet cafe/illegal mobile shop.
 

Rambo

The Trollest Of Trolls
Moderator
Messages
27,133
Ratings
13,542
His beef with Henry was that I wouldn't remove any posts from Henry'd thread, yet removed them from his. Sartodi sees himself as Henry's equal in business, this his thread should have been maintained the same as Henry's.
 
Top Bottom