The iGent's Guide to the Galaxy

Journeyman said:
Yes, thank you, Gianni.
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thank you very much for your beautiful words. Really. In my small way, to be passionate, I try to be able to document from Italy who really makes things out of the ordinary. Also because everyone says they do bespoke suits ... but few are those who know how to make masterpieces. And when a jacket passes in 100 different hands has lost all that uniqueness that allows him to become a masterpiece. Instead Pirozzi he does it all. Just like over 100 years ago. Cuts, sews, stretches and forms to the body of the customer the fabric. So does it all and he alone with his hands.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
thank you very much for your beautiful words. Really. In my small way, to be passionate, I try to be able to document from Italy who really makes things out of the ordinary. Also because everyone says they do bespoke suits ... but few are those who know how to make masterpieces. And when a jacket passes in 100 different hands has lost all that uniqueness that allows him to become a masterpiece. Instead Pirozzi he does it all. Just like over 100 years ago. Cuts, sews, stretches and forms to the body of the customer the fabric. So does it all and he alone with his hands.
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ConchitaWurst ConchitaWurst do you have more information on how Pirozzi uses the iron like no other tailor?
 
Excuse me a moment but I was very confused in posting this news. I mixed up the thread of my tailor with my sales thread ... I'm just struck by lightning =)

Forgive me.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
Excuse me a moment but I was very confused in posting this news. I mixed up the thread of my tailor with my sales thread ... I'm just struck by lightning =)

Forgive me.
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Do you know of any tailors who might be able to do BLACK PLASTIC PNEUMATIC TIRE LIKE FUSED CANVAS. CONFIRMED BY THE ELITE OF NEAPOLITAN TAILORS WHO INSPECTED THIS CRIME
 
Thruth said:
Do you know of any tailors who might be able to do BLACK PLASTIC PNEUMATIC TIRE LIKE FUSED CANVAS. CONFIRMED BY THE ELITE OF NEAPOLITAN TAILORS WHO INSPECTED THIS CRIME
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thanks for your explanation. Really. But I do not understand what you mean when you ask me what I do see all 4 views. What do you mean? As soon as the head is over I'll show you every angle. thanks again for your advice
 
Those DB lapels with the cut-through stripes look Toofunni™.
I am aware that it saves cloth, but I find it just unpleasant to look at.
 
ConchitaWurst said:
thanks for your explanation. Really. But I do not understand what you mean when you ask me what I do see all 4 views. What do you mean? As soon as the head is over I'll show you every angle. thanks again for your advice
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While iron that you saw in the picture is crucial to taste the dress form. Many Cut, sew and stretch. But this is notto create masterpieces.so joins the pieces of cloth and nothing else. Mimmo model instead of the fabric with the iron.Only in this way can make masterpieces. Anyway, thank you for everything.Really.
 
Journeyman said:
Can we please stop quoting old Gianni Cerutti posts from SF here?!?!
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JM, I realize that these posts can be somewhat tedious. But, we have seen photos of Mimmo Pirozzi's work here but the explination of how he builds his wonderful garments is missing. I am attempting to provide snippets of Mimmo's artistry from my deep archives of personal & semi-incomprehensible communication with Gianni on Napoli tailors. You will not find this anywhere on the internet until I translate the archives into French for my top menswear blog that is upcoming.
 
Thruth said:
You will not find this anywhere on the internet until I translate the archives into French for my top menswear blog that is upcoming.
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Well, I look forward to seeing your blog but not being able to understand anything written in it!
 
Journeyman said:
Very nice. From your photos, I prefer Tofani's style to Pirozzi's style.

I know that it's subjective, but to my taste, Pirozzi cuts his lapels wide but too short - the lapels would look nicer if they were a bit deeper/longer.
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I like hard 3s as common in pre-war but lapels are too wide so firmly rooted in ugly modernism regardless of fit. Beginning of distorted proportions post-war including Pizzi as we see here.

Very dandy tissue wine wool all's missing yellow polka dot cravat, blue plastic glasses to achieve Gianni.
 
Weakmonday needs to learn from Vox, without an upright standing posture with relaxed arms we'll never see if tailoring's any good. If he wants to hide problems then continue the igent poses.
 
LelandJ said:
I like hard 3s as common in pre-war but lapels are too wide so firmly rooted in ugly modernism regardless of fit. Beginning of distorted proportions post-war including Pizzi as we see here.

Very dandy tissue wine wool all's missing yellow polka dot cravat, blue plastic glasses to achieve Gianni.
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You think that is a hard 3?
 
Its a three button jacket. Also i will mix it up by going with yellow polka dot glasses and a blue tie instead. Because I am dandy.
 
For Pirozzi #3 the changes I requested were a spalla insellata and the 3 button style. I think I ended up getting a very subtle insellata which I like (honestly it's so subtle... I'm not sure it's even there... I have much to learn as a suit scientist). It keeps the extended style of shoulder which I like and is more of a chiseled look, than the rounded shoulder of Pirozzi #1 and #2.

For Tofani #2 the changes I requested were a slightly wider shoulder. They accommodated this by increasing the shoulders by 1cm total (not as much as I would've liked... but they said any wider would be outside their style). I originally had wanted a lower gorge for the double breasted (I spent about 2-3 months obsessing over this detail) only to have my wife (who spent about a minute thinking about this detail) nix the idea during the order(sigh).

Overall, I'd say I'm quite pleased with both tailors and would like to stick with them in the future as my Neapolitan tailors. Tofani for the slim modern-y Italian-ish Neapolitan style and Pirozzi for the classic vintage-y British-ish Neapolitan style. This summer, god willing, I will try a new Florentine or Milanese tailor in the summer (with a Pirozzi #4 and Tofani #3).
 
WeakMonday said:
For Pirozzi #3 the changes I requested were a spalla insellata and the 3 button style. I think I ended up getting a very subtle insellata which I like (honestly it's so subtle... I'm not sure it's even there... I have much to learn as a suit scientist). It keeps the extended style of shoulder which I like and is more of a chiseled look, than the rounded shoulder of Pirozzi #1 and #2.

For Tofani #2 the changes I requested were a slightly wider shoulder. They accommodated this by increasing the shoulders by 1cm total (not as much as I would've liked... but they said any wider would be outside their style). I originally had wanted a lower gorge for the double breasted (I spent about 2-3 months obsessing over this detail) only to have my wife (who spent about a minute thinking about this detail) nix the idea during the order(sigh).

Overall, I'd say I'm quite pleased with both tailors and would like to stick with them in the future as my Neapolitan tailors. Tofani for the slim modern-y Italian-ish Neapolitan style and Pirozzi for the classic vintage-y British-ish Neapolitan style. This summer, god willing, I will try a new Florentine or Milanese tailor in the summer (with a Pirozzi #4 and Tofani #3).
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Pirozzi is modern too, not sure what you mean by vintage.
 
For academic intents purposes modern is post-war, which wide shoulders are.
 
they had wide shoulders pre-war too... the point is wide shoulders aren't common right now... thus they are vintage-y
 
WeakMonday said:
For Pirozzi #3 the changes I requested were a spalla insellata and the 3 button style. I think I ended up getting a very subtle insellata which I like (honestly it's so subtle... I'm not sure it's even there... I have much to learn as a suit scientist). It keeps the extended style of shoulder which I like and is more of a chiseled look, than the rounded shoulder of Pirozzi #1 and #2.

For Tofani #2 the changes I requested were a slightly wider shoulder. They accommodated this by increasing the shoulders by 1cm total (not as much as I would've liked... but they said any wider would be outside their style). I originally had wanted a lower gorge for the double breasted (I spent about 2-3 months obsessing over this detail) only to have my wife (who spent about a minute thinking about this detail) nix the idea during the order(sigh).

Overall, I'd say I'm quite pleased with both tailors and would like to stick with them in the future as my Neapolitan tailors. Tofani for the slim modern-y Italian-ish Neapolitan style and Pirozzi for the classic vintage-y British-ish Neapolitan style. This summer, god willing, I will try a new Florentine or Milanese tailor in the summer (with a Pirozzi #4 and Tofani #3).
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please give us more details regarding the wife thing

does she have influence on what you order etc.?
 
Would love to see a Pirozzi peak db with top buttons vertically in line with the bottom two button rows. Love high stance, low stance is modern affectation like people wearing low rise pants.
 
LelandJ said:
Would love to see a Pirozzi peak db with top buttons vertically in line with the bottom two button rows. Love high stance, low stance is modern affectation like people wearing low rise pants.
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Your idea of modern affectation is anything after about 1920!
 
omg toofunni got the burgundy little less black than a berry craze

image.png
 
WeakMonday said:
Nope just the one from him so far
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I suggest you a double breasted from Gianni Volpe and a 3 buttons single breasted from Mimmo Pirozzi.

Volpe's DB are great,superb. and Pirozzi is a insuperate master in make 3 buttons.
 
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