All right, it's like we're back in the heyday of the clothing fora when real information was exchanged and you actually learned stuff! I really wish that gufasd was here to see this, as he had this idea that tailoring was just length and width and how hard could it be? There's way more to it.
The most crucial one, however, is the vertical balance, which is based on your posture:
Patterns are made for the standard figure, so any deviation from that is going to cause more or less a fit issue.
1) Erect: Here the back is shorter and the chest longer/ fuller. On this figure type a normal jacket, when buttoned, will pout at the chest and the fronts will tend to overlap at the bottom and there might also be a neck fold under the collar. When unbuttoned the fronts will swing open.
A bespoke tailor will adjust the pattern in a way similar to this:
The chest of the fronts gets opened to make it wider and longer, while the back gets shortened and narrowed.
"Normal" has changed over the last decades. Today the stooping figures are more common than the average one shown in the diagram (which is defined by the axis going through the centre of the body).
Add to that an overall more obese and taller population compared to pre-WW2.
Unfortunately, the average person working in a clothing store knows very, very little about how to fit a suit properly and so nowadays the default advice (at least before this recent trend of very skinny suits) is typically to wear a suit that is too large. I've been told that I look good even when I'm trying on a jacket that projects an inch from each shoulder and, when I've questioned the fit, I've been told that it's good, because it "allows me to move".
From what I can read, are you advocating for the use of drape to give us more comfort when wearing a jacket? (back width= drape at the back)
As you can see, both elements, front and back of a jacket, need to be well proportioned and in relation to each other.
A loose jacket will have the range of movement in the back, but will restrict you by having too much material against your shoulder in the front. The close fitting jacket won't hit your shoulders in the front, but will restrict you in the back.
So all the elements of the upper part of a jacket play a role in comfort and good fit. These are the points to look out for:
Have a look at how jackets behave when you (or someone else around you) move the arms up or forward. Do the sleeves get much shorter and/ or do they lift the entire jacket? Does the back of the jacket ride up and creates a little fold at the neck? Does the front of the armhole rest on your biceps?
I have exactly the same problem with a custom jacket (one of my first ones) I always thought that was a matter of wrong armhole position (something like a off-pitch armhole), Are you saying that if I increase the back width through the back seam (I have a lot of extra fabric there) I would be able to solve the issue?I
Ok, all the OT posts have been moved from this thread. Let's keep this discussion on track in here. As this thread is a wonderful resource and Scherensammler
has gone to great lengths to prepare this material for all of us, we will be heavily moderating this to keep out any discussions that veer off topic.
Looking at your animation X sleeve is nearly parallel to front quarter. Merrion's client jacket pictured has a bigger angle than your X3. I said his client has a hunchback, not the mannequin. I'll rephrase here - the client's posture looks worse than any jacket that could be tailored for him.
There needs to be a certain amount of ease between armhole and blades to allow for comfort when reaching forward. How much ease depends on how much the back flexes and how wide the shoulders are or need to be.
Also, and this shows how difficult it can be to get this right, shoulder and back can be perfectly fine and correct in width, but the back might still be restrictive.
One reason for that can be the size or the shape of the armhole. A good armhole follows the shape of the body (see arrow):
When the shape is wrong, like indicated by the dotted red line:
it creates a shortness at the bottom of the armhole, resulting in this:
One remedy for this is to change the shape of the armhole:
or, if that's not possible, to add that amount of fullness to the under sleeve.
, feel free to post a picture of that coat, maybe we can sort it out.
OK, lets start with the obvious: It's very, very tight. Must have shrunk at the dry cleaners.
When you open the front button, how much do the fronts open/ gape? That is usually a good indicator for how much is missing.
Is this full bespoke or MTM/RTW?
Are there pads in the shoulders? It's hard to tell what's going on with the sleeves, because the jacket doesn't sit right, especially in the back. But from the last image it seems they are a bit narrow and tight in the crown (not enough ease, more later). The crown appears to be on the slightly too long side. Narrow and long makes the crown push up the cloth like it does in your case.
As I said it is an old jacket and I have put on about 4kgs/8 pounds since I got it. I also took it only once to the cleaners so I dont know if it has shrunk or not. What I can say is that it doesn't feel tight at all?
This a pic with the front button open. I also took a couple of pictures more when I lift the arm up it the sleeve hardly moves. It its only when I move the arm forward that the sleeve bunches up. I also know it is normal for the sleeve to do that, it is only that it is too much and why I decided to post the pics.
It is bespoke (badspoke would be the correct term) the tailor made another jacket earlier and to some degree I have the same problem but not as bad as this one. I am tempted to think that the problem is because of the way that the tailor cuts the jacket.
You'll find that a lot of jackets will do that, although you are right in the sense that one would expect some sort of pulling on the front button.
The sleeves look a bit lifeless and, is it just me, or does robertito
's jacket share some resemblance with that of our DarkOverlord™ Sartodinapoli ?
Thank you. Very helpful. I guess to know how much is the inlay I would need to rip the sleeve off? I am happy to do so. The jacket has rendered useless unless I fix it. To find a talented tailor would be the real problem.
as what could be concluded from the posting where you pretend that at any given moment in time there are at least or more tailoring houses where detailed execution is bad and overall cut is good than there are tailoring houses where detailed execution is bad and overall cut is good. As we all know, this probability is close to zero. But I guess you were influenced by UNtailors, so I forgive you.