Featured THE TOTALLY AWESOME EXPLANATION OF HOW PATTERNS WORK AND AFFECT THE FIT!!!!!

Discussion in 'Men's Clothing' started by Scherensammler, Aug 8, 2015.

  1. Scherensammler

    Scherensammler Well-Known Member

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    !
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2017
  2. Rambo

    Rambo The Trollest Of Trolls Moderator

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    HOLY SHIT IT FINALLY HAPPENED
     
  3. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    Can we rename thread to SUIT SCIENCE THEORY ?
     
  4. Robert

    Robert Well-Known Member

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    This is the kind of stuff i want to read!
     
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  5. robertito

    robertito Well-Known Member

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    please post more.
     
  6. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member Supporter

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    This is very good - please keep it up!
     
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  7. Russell Street

    Russell Street King Of The Trolls Supporter

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    All right, it's like we're back in the heyday of the clothing fora when real information was exchanged and you actually learned stuff! I really wish that gufasdgufasd was here to see this, as he had this idea that tailoring was just length and width and how hard could it be? There's way more to it.
     
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  8. doghouse

    doghouse King Of The Elite Idiots Moderator Supporter

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  9. LKP

    LKP Troll Treasurer

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    cannot see most of the pictures at work
    but i think i know what you're doing there

    i also like that my term COLLO AMERICANO is being used
    once more for everybody
    it is called collo americano
    because america is the land of the free
    and this collar is free-floating
     
  10. Russell Street

    Russell Street King Of The Trolls Supporter

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    The written descriptions are above par. The graphics certainly help, but I've read tailoring talk where the text is totally unclear.
     
  11. LKP

    LKP Troll Treasurer

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    dont we enjoy reading texts which make us feel stupid???
     
  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Waiting For The Cleaning Lady To Get Naked Supporter

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  13. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    This "erect" position as pictured above is closer to a healthier, proper posture than the "normal" one shown. I have couple decades of elite martial arts training as my reference point.
     
  14. claphamomnibus

    claphamomnibus Well-Known Member

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    But normal is almost never the platonic ideal.
     
  15. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Very true.

    Unfortunately, the average person working in a clothing store knows very, very little about how to fit a suit properly and so nowadays the default advice (at least before this recent trend of very skinny suits) is typically to wear a suit that is too large. I've been told that I look good even when I'm trying on a jacket that projects an inch from each shoulder and, when I've questioned the fit, I've been told that it's good, because it "allows me to move".
     
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  16. WeakMonday

    WeakMonday Well-Known Member Supporter

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    An inch is still probably less than the Armani days
     
  17. robertito

    robertito Well-Known Member

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    From what I can read, are you advocating for the use of drape to give us more comfort when wearing a jacket? (back width= drape at the back)


    I have exactly the same problem with a custom jacket (one of my first ones) I always thought that was a matter of wrong armhole position (something like a off-pitch armhole), Are you saying that if I increase the back width through the back seam (I have a lot of extra fabric there) I would be able to solve the issue?I
     
  18. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    I've never contemplated armhole pitch/shape and it being a distinct issue from sleeve pitch, good post.

    I really wonder why so many RTW brands have Boglioli sleeves where the only way you don't see pulling is if your arms are positioned like so:

    [​IMG]
     
  19. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    Noodles standing well enough here, arms relaxed, and you can see pulling on both sleeves with forward pitched sleeves. I call it Boglioli because they're one of the worst offenders.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    X3 in your diagram is Boglioli sleeve !
     
  21. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    X3 badspoke:

    [​IMG]
     
  22. Rambo

    Rambo The Trollest Of Trolls Moderator

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    Ok, all the OT posts have been moved from this thread. Let's keep this discussion on track in here. As this thread is a wonderful resource and ScherensammlerScherensammler has gone to great lengths to prepare this material for all of us, we will be heavily moderating this to keep out any discussions that veer off topic.
     
  23. Alfanauts

    Alfanauts Well-Known Member

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    Why have my serious posts (on topic) been moved as well?
     
  24. Rambo

    Rambo The Trollest Of Trolls Moderator

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    I just moved everything in bulk. If I missed something please let me know.
     
  25. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    This would be a severe hunchback posture which itself would look worse than any jacket tailored for it.
     
  26. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    Looking at your animation X sleeve is nearly parallel to front quarter. Merrion's client jacket pictured has a bigger angle than your X3. I said his client has a hunchback, not the mannequin. I'll rephrase here - the client's posture looks worse than any jacket that could be tailored for him.
     
  27. robertito

    robertito Well-Known Member

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    There you have:
    Quite an old jacket (6 years?) didnt know that it fit me so badly. :-) my wife took the pics but the one sideways are a disaster. Happy to take more if you want.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  28. LelandJ

    LelandJ Chicken Testicle Enthusiast

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    Hideous Roberto, hope you never wear it again.
     
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  29. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Surprisingly, it doesn't look too bad from the front but the back is an absolute mess.
     
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  30. ConchitaWurst

    ConchitaWurst Bespoke-Weather Forecaster Supporter

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    thats also what the aristocrat blogger said to robertito
     
  31. robertito

    robertito Well-Known Member

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    As I said it is an old jacket and I have put on about 4kgs/8 pounds since I got it. I also took it only once to the cleaners so I dont know if it has shrunk or not. What I can say is that it doesn't feel tight at all?
    This a pic with the front button open. I also took a couple of pictures more when I lift the arm up it the sleeve hardly moves. It its only when I move the arm forward that the sleeve bunches up. I also know it is normal for the sleeve to do that, it is only that it is too much and why I decided to post the pics.

    It is bespoke (badspoke would be the correct term) the tailor made another jacket earlier and to some degree I have the same problem but not as bad as this one. I am tempted to think that the problem is because of the way that the tailor cuts the jacket.

    There is hardly any padding on the jacket.

    I didn't understand the bolded sentence

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I am afraid, you are right. I didn't know if fit so badly at the back

    I thought slightly the same and I was tempted not to upload the pic because of that. My only comfort is that I didn't pay +2,000 euros for the jacket like Lord Voldemort did. SartodinapoliSartodinapoli
     
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  32. ConchitaWurst

    ConchitaWurst Bespoke-Weather Forecaster Supporter

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    please stop quoting the aristocrat blogger

    please demount the tailor
     
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  33. robertito

    robertito Well-Known Member

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    you mean UN tailor?
     
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  34. robertito

    robertito Well-Known Member

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    Thank you. Very helpful. I guess to know how much is the inlay I would need to rip the sleeve off? I am happy to do so. The jacket has rendered useless unless I fix it. To find a talented tailor would be the real problem.
     
  35. Rambo

    Rambo The Trollest Of Trolls Moderator

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    robertitorobertito you're never going to be able to fix that.
     
  36. Thruth

    Thruth thicker but more pliant than horsehide Moderator

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    Final fix = fire
     
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  37. OP
    OP
    Scherensammler

    Scherensammler Well-Known Member

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    So, according to your view, basically every men's tailor on this planet is doing it wrong?
    Thank you, I was aiming at being perceived as knowledgeable.

    I can see that you share Sarto's ability to make wild conclusions. Well done, really dear!
     
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  38. Rambo

    Rambo The Trollest Of Trolls Moderator

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    Fucking christ. I woke up to 100's of posts. I never thought they would be about some sort of slot far-sight that lets one determine the fit of the garment by staring into them.

    All this shit has been moved to the bored at work thread.

    Alfanauts has been banned from this thread.
     
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  39. fxh

    fxh OG Party Suit Wearer Supporter

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    You are using toile the same as the Americans use muslin?

    It's a mockup of material that has approximately the same characteristics of the planned suiting?
     
  40. OP
    OP
    Scherensammler

    Scherensammler Well-Known Member

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    Which comes as no surprise, because their buttonholes look like this:

    [​IMG]
     
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