Featured What Are You Wearing Today?

Discussion in 'Men's Clothing' started by Chorn, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. formby

    formby Well-Known Member

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    I like um...

    'Ugly' things are often more interesting than beautiful things. And it everything is beautiful, then nothing is.

    I think FC strikes an interesting pose with his togs. Sometimes considered ugly, I prefer the term bold, tie, worn with simple in terms of fabric / pattern well cut tailoring.
     
  2. FriendCustomer

    FriendCustomer Awful Tie Aficionado

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    agree pretty much, shirts are generally simple in terms of pattern, but i would say that some of my suiting and jacketing can be quite bold (or a bit out of the norm or old fashioned) as well, but almost always traditional cloth.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017
  3. ConchitaWurst

    ConchitaWurst Bespoke-Weather Forecaster Supporter

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    16841771-B2C3-4553-AE12-32D212B75605.jpeg
     
  4. CesareRomiti

    CesareRomiti Well-Known Member

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    Indeed, you need more multichecked shirts

    D9819678-ADB8-4BD9-BA63-050F1E621452.jpeg
     
  5. ConchitaWurst

    ConchitaWurst Bespoke-Weather Forecaster Supporter

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    i like your tan. good to see the melanotan injections work this well for you. great suit too. is that from your sekret neapolitan tailor???2?(3(.??
     
  6. Dropbear

    Dropbear Member in Good Standing

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    $25 unshirt with a decent collar roll.
    3DB766B1-42D2-41D8-9A2F-DEA0D35D475A.jpeg
     
  7. viaattovannucci

    viaattovannucci No Custom Title

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    Is this a "non-iron" shirt?
     
  8. Dropbear

    Dropbear Member in Good Standing

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    Eeeww. Certainly not! Brushed oxford.
     
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  9. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Well-Known Member

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    It is still possible to source those fabrics?
     
  10. ConchitaWurst

    ConchitaWurst Bespoke-Weather Forecaster Supporter

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    in japan yes
     
  11. Thruth

    Thruth thicker but more pliant than horsehide Moderator

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    But just one of each
     
  12. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Well-Known Member

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    Thank God!

    [​IMG]
     
  13. FriendCustomer

    FriendCustomer Awful Tie Aficionado

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    sirloin, aristoi bcn, Thruth and 3 others like this.
  14. viaattovannucci

    viaattovannucci No Custom Title

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    The roll does give the vibe of a non-iron unshirt, but I suppose it is what it is: $25 shirt.
     
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  15. fxh

    fxh OG Party Suit Wearer Supporter

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    Hey ThruthThruth - for you - Mr Rugged Workwear Cuffed Jeans. Go Hard - Or - Go Home
    23473089_2047355412160658_8048859023147060338_n.jpg
     
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  16. Thruth

    Thruth thicker but more pliant than horsehide Moderator

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    i am beaten
     
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  17. FriendCustomer

    FriendCustomer Awful Tie Aficionado

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    Worsted 13 to 16 oz
    Concerning 13 oz typical english old school cloth you can still get Harrisons Oyster or Lessers 13oz. Perhaps they lost something from the vintage variety but its close enough. Smith Woolens too. Also dugdales city and town, which is perhaps a bit less refined and HFW's Classic II which finishing is a bit more modern imo. If you can handle slightly lighter in weight schofield and smith Westminister is good cloth at 350g. Periodically H&S and Scabal do heavy wieght collections too.

    Concernign 16oz cloth, options have dwindled. H lesser book is running out and does not seem to be being renewed. Harrison's P&B universal is still around, less refined than Lesser but still might do the trick depending on the pattern.

    Reid & Taylor Twist
    Reid and Taylor twist is no more. Stuff comes up on ebay uk every now and then (sometimes under their own name sometimes under Holland and Sherry, Scabal, and Kieth and Henderson) but mainly in 70s shades of browns and greens, the more desirable blue and greys are harder to come by. Also look for old Reid and Welsh and other defunct Scottish mills. The original stuff could be quite heavy 18oz+. This newer collection looks and feels quite nice at 13 oz : http://www.pepperlee.co.uk/suiting/bunch-name/heritage-twist.html Also see the Halstead 3ply mohair on their site, not many patterns but the old school formula and weight.

    Sportex
    The old sportex is no more. Again pops up on ebay every now and then, but its mainly browns. But Dormeuil is still producing a lighter 380 g version "vintage sportex" in their British Collection. Patterns are limited but some look quite nice.

    Tweed
    sporting and/or Estate Tweed is still readily available. for example check out the heavy weight ranges here: https://www.yorkshirefabric.com/collections/tweed/22-24oz
    or http://www.intweed.co.uk/goods-for-sale/heavy-weight-tweeds
    H&S also sometimes has an estate tweed collection.
    for donegal contact molloy and sons, also w bill. Porter and hardings thornproof collection is nice machine made donegal style suiting. also porter and hardings glen royal is beautiful softish 14 oz jacketing/suiting.
    unfortunately harris and shetland are not what they used to be but the London Lounge still produces excellent shetland through lovat. But I find most of lovats standard range of tweed to be quite uninspiring though. Periodically scabal will do a shetland collection. The Marlin & Evans natural collection also looks promising.

    Other Stuff
    For flannel i like HFW's heavy weight stuff, fox's heavy weight stuff and Harrisons. But vintage flannel would be my preference worsted or woolen.

    For linen the w bill and HFW 12/13 oz suiting is good. Would like to investigate further with direct purchases from the Irish mills.

    Don't really have any recommendations for lightweight worsted current production other than mohair blends and fresco type stuff. HFW rangoon is good but no longer available, sometimes special runs pop up on SF. H Lesser vintage panama suiting is very good, and there may be some lengths left at W bills london warehouse.

    The vintage goods
    The vintage goods can be found sometimes for a reasonable price on ebay UK, but patience is required. Other interesting and highly desirable vintage stuff is old H&S with mink or vicuna blends. Vintage heavier weight cashmere is also something of a holy grail, harrisons and johnstons were known for this. another thing people look for in vintage cloth is old "london shrunk" markings. vintage lambswool jacketings and saxony flannels like lessers original barera collections are also top stuff. vintage lessers golden bale, especially the flannels is also highly desirable. Lots of old woodhouse, dormeuil (vintage towntex and tonik especially) and wain shiell can be great stuff too. Old italian cloth, 80s or earlier, can be great stuff too, especially for jacketing and fake tweeds and cashmere and flannels see vintage mario zegna and tons of other mills.

    If your interested I have plenty of vintage brown/green twist suiting and sportex I would be willing to sell. also some heavy weight worsted, but it can be rough stuff. let me know if there is interest and will photo.

    In Italy the two biggest sources for this kind of stuff that i know of is M. Cilento in Naples and il vecchio drappiere in milan. Cilento has an amazing vintage tweed selection and even gets sportex and tonik special runs made up from Dormeuil, but it will cost you. Il Vecchio is more hit or miss, but it will also cost you an arm and a leg.

    Lafayette Saltiel Drapiers in Paris also has large stock of some interesting vintage often no name stuff.

    Another option is to see what your tailor or any old tailor shop has in their attic or basement or just lying around.

    And yes Japan remains a source but the logistics are quite complicated.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
  18. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Well-Known Member

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    That's encyclopedic. Big thanks for the contribution. I'll make good use of it.
     
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  19. rdiaz

    rdiaz Well-Known Member

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    FriendCustomer, very interesting post. Would mills sell individual lengths of cloth to a customer? I thought they'd only do wholesale or work with businesses. I'm about to try making my own trousers and that would be good news.
     
  20. FriendCustomer

    FriendCustomer Awful Tie Aficionado

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    Some cloth merchants do : HFW (huddersfield fine worsteds) and Yorkshire fabric both have web shops open to the public. Harrisons will open an account for you depending where you are located.

    Some mills also do : the pepper lee web site is part of the same company that owns some mills i believe, so is schofield and smith, they also have a web shop. the tweed makers are less sophisticated when it comes to the web but will typically sell direct. two Irish linen makers also have webshops.

    There is also fox, but i'm not sure how much their west of england mill is really producing, they seem like a hybrid, also having cloth made by other mills available on their merchant fox web site.

    But that doesn't mean you are going to save any money, they all raise the price for individuals as opposed to those in the trade. A good english tailor should be able to get you almost anything, unless you want some strange vintage stuff. the above is much more useful in dealing with italian tailors in the south with limited cloth choices.

    only bargains to be found are on ebay (and that is really buyer beware, lots of shit out there) or through personal relationships/negotiation
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
  21. rdiaz

    rdiaz Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a lot! Will take note of the names. Not really looking for bargains (well for the first ones I make, maybe), so as long as they sell to individuals it's fine. I just wasn't expecting to be able to buy cloth just like that.
     
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  22. Pimpernel Smith

    Pimpernel Smith Well-Known Member

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    Had a strong T&A look going on today, a perfect antidote against the drab and uniform utopian EU types with rose tinted spectacles desperate to believe that everything is progressing to plan, only the Brits and Italians held the line of reality:

    Capture.JPG
     
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  23. QuandoDio

    QuandoDio Well-Known Member

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    For the standard popular merchants, little reason to source readily available fabric yourself- your tailor will always get a better deal. Unless, he doesn't stock said book. H&S used to sell directly too but i don't know if they still do. Ditto Scabal. Huddersfield cloth (different from HFW) also sells direct.

    H&S is really underrated by the bespoke crowd but their flannels - along with Harrisons archive - (or vintage-y) is a favourite. I am speaking about their old standard heavy flannels or viceroy (17/18oz). At 13/14 ozI prefer their worsteds to Harrisons/Lesser bar oyster.

    One of the three Eurotrash introduced made me aware of M&E and i ordered some stuff directly. Ardalanish can also get certain tweeds. Callum Mclean can also pretty much weave most patterns for you at a reasonable cost. But your needs should really be served by Yorkshire fabric unless you a hoarder aficionado like FriendCustomerFriendCustomer .

    As alluded to above, Ebay is indeed a treasure trove.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
  24. QuandoDio

    QuandoDio Well-Known Member

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    Could stand to benefit from scale variance.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
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  25. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Well-Known Member

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    I've purchased both from HFW and Harrison's. The former offers public price, which is not exorbitant but also not a bargain. Harrison's prices for individuals are outrageous. I was quoted more than 100€/m for their linens, although last time I purchased directly from them, not from their spanish agent. I've also purchased linen from Spence Bryson at 12€/m. (My guess is that they produce for Harrison's).

    Dugdale, Dormeuil and Holland Sherry do sell through their spanish agents but they have never answered my emails...

    There are several sources for Harris Tweed and Molloy&Sons sell their Donegal at very fair prices.
     
  26. rdiaz

    rdiaz Well-Known Member

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    I've owned trousers in both woolen and worsted heavyweight flannel from H&S (don't remember the book, Viceroy I believe) and loved them.
     
  27. Pimpernel Smith

    Pimpernel Smith Well-Known Member

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    How?

    Thanks!
     
  28. QuandoDio

    QuandoDio Well-Known Member

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    You obviously have a particular interpretation of dressing so discard if you want.

    a) The tie and shirt pattern are too close in scale and from away could even be the same type.

    I would ditch one or the other and employ bigger checks or much bigger tie motif

    b) Colour scheme and intensity is not my cup of tea. Garish purple and lurid green do not work for me at all. and yes i see that one of the dots is lavender/lilac so trying to play off the shirt but still not my bag.

    Also very country colours in what is decidedly a city rig.

    I also dislike the tie - its fish-skin lustre doubling up as a reflective mirror. It cheapens any ensemble

    tl;dr - Use the shirt for a more casual wear and give the tie to FriendCustomerFriendCustomer
     
  29. viaattovannucci

    viaattovannucci No Custom Title

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    I actually like it. But I refuse to give the thumb, because of your admission on changing out the leather buttons. Who does that?!!
     
  30. rdiaz

    rdiaz Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure it's different where you live but here they associate leather buttons with teba jackets and old men, and I think I already dress too oldmanly. I'd only be missing the matching Harris tweed cap to become a total grandpa.

    Well, that and the fact that I dislike leather buttons.
     
    Dropbear likes this.
  31. Pimpernel Smith

    Pimpernel Smith Well-Known Member

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    Mission and context is everything: in a sea of drab grey, ill-fitting suits and off-the-peg nightmares, it's important not to blend.

    Everything in today's rig was planned and chosen to breach the reality studio at the decisive moment.
     
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  32. QuandoDio

    QuandoDio Well-Known Member

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    Good choice on the buttons.

    Carry on then!
     
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  33. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Well-Known Member

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    With tweed you have a lot of tie options better than printed silk. Madder, challis, wool, knitted wool, even grenadine would be better. I like the tie, though.
     
  34. FriendCustomer

    FriendCustomer Awful Tie Aficionado

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    Generally agree about H&S, but their collections last only a couple of seasons so it really depends what they have at the moment.

    I have some vintage 18 oz dormeuil flannel, easily some of the stoutest cloth I’ve ever handled. Vintage Arthur Harrisons heavy worsted flannel is also really solid cloth worthy of the bench.
     
  35. rdiaz

    rdiaz Well-Known Member

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    I have a grenadine but it's rather shiny. I thought grenadines were city suit ties, do you guys really wear them with tweed?
     
  36. QuandoDio

    QuandoDio Well-Known Member

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    Yep, heavy flannel (the best kind of flannel) is surprising difficult to find these days. I know Fox has 17oz but it is listed as jacketing but i know a few people who have used it.

    I bought heavy-ish worsted grey flannel tissue last year - about 11m worth which (says Hield Brothers vintage flannel)- was cheap. Don't really care for worsted flannel and i don't know anything about Hield Brothers but had 3 trousers made from it and it truly is excellent. Milled but stout, looks more like woolen.

    Yeah true about H&S. Very annoying with the constant changing of the bunches. The new Minnis flannel is not to my taste at all but very nice colours though.
     
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  37. FriendCustomer

    FriendCustomer Awful Tie Aficionado

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    Agree completely about the new minnis flannel. Very nice colors and patterns but too soft and not nearly as good as the old stuff. The old stuff was nice and stiff. I always found it reminded me of cardboard in a good way.

    I’ve made pants from the very heavy fox flannel, they turned out great.
     
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  38. CesareRomiti

    CesareRomiti Well-Known Member

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    Happy to see the DropbearDropbear like
    Since you mention oldman dress
    Mr bitter @fxh8 will join soon
     
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  39. rdiaz

    rdiaz Well-Known Member

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    I have to clarify that I don't have any problem with old men dress. In fact I want to become old just to dress like a grandpa. Right now, dressing too much like an old man when not being... old, looks costumey.
     
  40. CesareRomiti

    CesareRomiti Well-Known Member

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    Then how come you’re not old yet??????? Do something about it