A Visit to a Local Cordwainer

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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"topy'd" using seal flipper over the hide on the sole

AB_784_AB.jpg
 

Thruth

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Someone go introduce seal flipper as the next big trend on StyleForum.
It might just work. I think an array of Arctic leathers for discerning gentlemen: seal flipper, caribou (anyone can get old Russian reindeer), walrus (great for wet weather if seal is too pedestrian for you), Arctic snow snake, Beluga whale for lovely spectators.
 

Russell Street

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I guess the general foot shape is uniform enough that linear dimensions are sufficient, or are they just making little notes like "high arch, narrow heel" to account for the actual 3d curves?
 
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Jimmy Frost Mellor

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I saw the Lobb or was it Cleverly guy do it and make notes as well. I was too polite to look and read as it was someone else's bare foot.
 

Thruth

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Good question Russell Street, the measurements are fairly standard across all makers. He also did a "pat down" to identify anatomical anomalies that might have to have relief incorporated into the boot. He also measured ankle height and position. Apparently my ankles are more anteriorly placed than the average bear. He does ask if there are any biomechanical issues that should be noted, use of orthotics/insoles. The foot tracing also accounts for arch height.
 

Russell Street

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I'm getting the sense that this process correlates to a MTM suit with measuring done by a bespoke tailor. We've seen the results of cheap igents sending linear measurements over to some foreign land and getting things back that meet the specs but are tight and loose in various spots. The expert knows what to look for and account for, as this is not some plug and chug grind or such a thing as MTM footwear would be more prevalent.
 

Thruth

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What about relative to the average human?
Nice one BooBoo. In relation to the average human? I believe I have Appalachian foot genes. A cross between a paw and a hoof just like my Grampa-Dad done had.
 

Thruth

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I'm getting the sense that this process correlates to a MTM suit with measuring done by a bespoke tailor. We've seen the results of cheap igents sending linear measurements over to some foreign land and getting things back that meet the specs but are tight and loose in various spots. The expert knows what to look for and account for, as this is not some plug and chug grind or such a thing as MTM footwear would be more prevalent.
Exactly. Remotely sending linear measurements only gets you so far because as you correctly assume there is a whole lot more involved in rendering a 3-D product. Even with bespoke, adjustments have to be made because nothing is ever perfect the first time. Better than RTW but never perfect.
 

doghouse

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True dat. I already have the perpetual Sprezz of pant cuffs getting hung up on my pull tabs. This will take it to a new level!
Shit, I got my noncuffed pants hanging up on my pull tabs.
 

Thruth

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Shit, I got my noncuffed pants hanging up on my pull tabs.
Finally figured out how to eliminate the problem but still maintain sprezz. This is my Fall-Winter look this year:
29.jpg
 

chogall

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3D Printing and Scanning doesn't really work for bespoke shoemaking as the machines are high cost and measurements are imprecise. It will get better for rubber molded shoes as the materials have much more give than leather.

Leather soles are nice, but not applicable to most parts of the world. Thankfully the drought in California will prolong my sole life by a year or more.
 
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Jimmy Frost Mellor

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But, but, but, igents and DWF say leather soles are de_ rigore , au courant, and correct. How could a civilised human wear anything else?
 

walker

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Really depends how frequently you go outside ...
well, not from my personal experience, though. weather is my least concern, also.

actually this topic is predestined for a "cat bites into her own tail"- discussion. also, whether I think that Ops' decision is totally stupid. it doesn't matter. its his preference and particularly its his boot.

... but feel free to discuss the topic of sole choice in the very own shoe care thread.
http://www.dressedwell.net/forum/threads/shoe-care.105/
 

Thruth

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They have been promised just prior to Christmas. I will post pics. I've asked him to take progress shots but he is sometimes like a fart in a windstorm: all over the place
 

Thruth

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What is the blemish about an inch up the left side of the monkstrap on the right shoe? It looks like a double slash.
Can't tell. Will see what it looks like in person on Monday.
 
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