A Visit to a Local Cordwainer

Allen Smithee said:
what are the symbols on the insole?
Click to expand...

It's his logo: a hammer, a shoe last & a tool (don't know the name) for pulling the leather tightly around the last

image.jpg
 
Did the trial fit today. Amazing fit overall especially in the heel and instep which is a problem for me: heel slippage with RTW. Left boot needs to be adjusted for my typical pressure point in the forefoot.

Rivals the fit of my bespoke Cleverley's.

He pegged the sole as well which I wasn't expecting.

Leather is waxed and needs to be shined up.

Lining leather is very nice and soft. Well done.

Initially he punched one hole on each strap. He will punch a couple more on each. Slightly tight on the right shoe.

Will try on again tomorrow.

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg
 
doghouse said:
Well done good sir.
Click to expand...

Thanks. A good first attempt. He nailed the fit which is critical. Leather quality is good but not spectacular. He can get high end French calf but says it would raise the price into EG & JL territory as he cannot get the price that volume buyers get. Plus he does not want to go this route until he establishes his client and business base. He says: "when someone tells me I really ought to be charging more, that's when I'll do it"
 
Thruth said:
Thanks. A good first attempt. He nailed the fit which is critical. Leather quality is good but not spectacular. He can get high end French calf but says it would raise the price from $850-$1000 to $ 1600 which pushes it into EG & JL territory as he cannot get the price that volume buyers get. Plus he does not want to go this route until he establishes his client and business base. He says: "when someone tells me I really ought to be charging more, that's when I'll do it"
Click to expand...

Well, I'll certainly not drop him a note telling him to charge that low down Thruth Thruth an arm and a leg.
 
Thruth said:
Leather quality is good but not spectacular.
Click to expand...

can you give an example of spectacular? just wondering how to rate this?

of course, he is not getting volume buyer rates, but whats his source? probably there are possibilities out there?
 
I have to say that using more reasonably priced leather on an initial attempt is the wise way to go. They certainly look good, particularly for an unfinished product.
Thruth said:
Left boot needs to be adjusted for my typical pressure point in the forefoot.
Click to expand...
This is where I might learn something. I'm somewhat familiar with tailors tossing basted jackets on for fittings and making adjustments. I'm unsure what can be tweaked along the way on a shoe.
So the strap is the full extent of fastening, beyond exact fit? Or is there elastic too liek with most monk-strap shoes?
 
walker said:
can you give an example of spectacular? just wondering how to rate this?

of course, he is not getting volume buyer rates, but whats his source? probably there are possibilities out there?
Click to expand...

Somewhat subjective, yes. First, I go by what he says in ranking the leathers he has access to. The better ones - at least by the swatches - were not the ones he used according to him. Finer grain, from a better location on the hide.

He buys leathers from a Canadian supplier and says other markets get better hides than Canada. I asked if he sources from Europe. The better leathers are from French tanneries via a German supplier. He needs to do more searching for sources. But this is just a conversation. The boot's leather is nice and I am quite pleased.
 
Russell Street said:
I have to say that using more reasonably priced leather on an initial attempt is the wise way to go. They certainly look good, particularly for an unfinished product.

This is where I might learn something. I'm somewhat familiar with tailors tossing basted jackets on for fittings and making adjustments. I'm unsure what can be tweaked along the way on a shoe.
So the strap is the full extent of fastening, beyond exact fit? Or is there elastic too liek with most monk-strap shoes?
Click to expand...

Well if they did not fit at all. Back to the drawing board and make a new pair based on remeasurement. The shoe can be stretched and tools can be used to create create relief in tight areas. Thicker sock liners can be used to reduce volume if that is an issue.

With this boot there is no elastic. The construction of the heel and instep provides the key to fit like a cowboy boot wood (except in these there is no heel slip built in). The strap is functional for a tight fit across the front of the foot.

That is why Walker rightfully had concerns with this type of boot for a first commission as getting the fit right in the first go is always an issue and with no lacing there is less room for error.
 
So a follow up after wearing the boots several times now. Break-in was minor. After a need to have the left boot adjusted with some relief and stretching for my toe knuckle (for lack of a better word) they are an incredibly comfortable pair of boots.

No aberrant creases developing. They are both comfortable yet rigid (in a good way). I put this down to the last being well modified for my feet and the pegging. The fit around my heel is far better than any RTW shoe. Previously, the AH boot I got from Walker had the best designed heel cup I had run across (not counting my bespoke shoe last from Cleverley).

The fit across the vamp is close but not excessively tight. There has been a bit of stretch such that the boots buckle without too much effort.

The biggest difference I see and feel between this modified last and my RTW boots are that with length they are somewhere between an 8.5 on the Brannock and the typical 9 or equivalent that I typically wear.

In terms of width, the modified last corrects for the difference between my normal D width in the forefoot and my narrow heel.

All in all, the result - especially for a non-laced boot - was excellent for a first attempt. I would not anticipate any major changes in the last modification for subsequent boots.

I would request better leather for subsequent boots or at least with a higher level of leather finishing.

In terms of the current exchange rate, these boots represent a solid value for what I got in terms of fit, construction and design. Plus they are done in my own back yard so I can interact with the cordwainer as opposed to traveling or sending measurements via the Internet.

Given a 78 cent Canadian dollar in relation to the USD, 70 cents versus the Euro and almost 50 cents to the pound, buying local is a no-brainer.
 
So does this pegging result in more support or tightness in the arch? I daresay that is something that I would value.
 
If they were done in your own backyard where did the bloke sleep? Did he have heating?
 
thruthy - baby - mate mate - old buddy - I was going to be a bit mean and post pictures of my shearers boots. But I didn't.

I think I've caught some nice bug off JM.
 
fxh said:
thruthy - baby - mate mate - old buddy - I was going to be a bit mean and post pictures of my shearers boots. But I didn't.

I think I've caught some nice bug off JM.
Click to expand...

i kinda like these
RB4004.jpg
 
They are good boots for working in. Last forever. Especially shearing as they get a coating of lanolin from the wool on each sheep. So getting a used pair of a shearer is the way to go - soft leather.
 
Thruth said:
That is why Walker rightfully had concerns with this type of boot for a first commission as getting the fit right in the first go is always an issue and with no lacing there is less room for error.
Click to expand...

well, I don't remember I voiced it that way. still not paricularly a fan of a strap boot, though.
 
Thruth said:
I would request better leather for subsequent boots or at least with a higher level of leather finishing.
Click to expand...

well, that's kind of a miracle to me.

alright, you ignore to "learn" about shoe care. the boot already looks like a beater, which has nothing to do with the leather used. still, you want something "better", whatever that means???

understood, that it normally takes a bit of a training, but this kind of leather is so easy to treat to make it look like a million dollar bucks. this is really mind boggling - just do it!!!

dont forget the trees,
 
Last edited:
walker said:
well, that's kind of a miracle to me.

alright, you ignore to "learn" about shoe care. the boot already looks like a beater, which has nothing to do with the leather used. still, you want something "better", whatever that means???

understood, that it normally takes a bit of a training, but this kind of leather is so easy to treat to make it look like a million dollar bucks. this is really mind boggling - just do it!!!

dont forget the trees,
Click to expand...

Hmm. Trees have been used since I got them. Look like beaters already? That is the point. Three wears in the office and I have turned them into beaters? Not
Likely.

Does Maftei or EG or even AE enclose a little note to customers and says "now do some shoe maintenance and they will look like a million bucks"? They look like a million bucks right out of the box.

These did not. That is my issue.
 
I have no intention to make you angry. certainly not. it's a great boot and the heel cup is really remarkable and outstanding. kudos to Mr.Finn.

"destroying" the wonderful leather sole is a pain for me, though

I have no personal experience with new AEs and/or their english counterpart. so my judgement is based on pictures only. most of the time: nothing to write home about, imo.

my own Mafteis are from special leathers, so this is not a comparison either. you can specify the grade of finishing, though. a real shoe lover does it on his own, imo unfortunately their newly i-gent customers don't belong to this group and their influence is not after my taste, anyway. probqably one of the reasons the maintenance job on one of my pairs ended disastrous, fwock.

ps: which trees are you using?

Thruth said:
Hmm. Trees have been used since I got them. Look like beaters already? That is the point. Three wears in the office and I have turned them into beaters? Not
Likely.

Does Maftei or EG or even AE enclose a little note to customers and says "now do some shoe maintenance and they will look like a million bucks"? They look like a million bucks right out of the box.

These did not. That is my issue.
Click to expand...
 
walker said:
well, I don't remember I voiced it that way. still not paricularly a fan of a strap boot, though.
Click to expand...

what I remember. I told you to break them in, before - if ever - a rubber sole is applied. this grade of "dilletantism" and/or ignorance is unsatisfying, imo.
 
Thruth said:
hah. he knows where to find me if he uses Mr. Google. besides, he is using the big boys. i am just using the village shoemaker.
Click to expand...

we all know, that he is clueless and the big boys are not eager to help him out. kismet
 
Rambo said:
zombie wednesday

Thruth Thruth how are your shoes holding up after a year?
Click to expand...

They are holding up well. Fit is still great. A solid feeling boot what with the hand welting and pegging. Straps buckle easily but no evidence of excess stretching of holes. Leather is fine. Was not spectacular in the first place

They are in the queue for my next sheep shearing session
image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Back
Top Bottom