Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

doghouse

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So now that I have donated like an idiot, I feel slightly invested in this site. To that end, I don't really go in for the WAYWRN and "Hey look at my shoes" threads. But, I tend to classic menswear for less than casual occasions, and yes, I get my shit made.

It seems that the usual reaction around here is "Erhmegerhd!!! Bespoke is for douches!!!"

Surely there is some other sap who is into clothes that fit, and pointing and laughing at those the fail?
 

Betelgeuse

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It seems that the usual reaction around here is "Erhmegerhd!!! Bespoke is for douches!!!"
I think is for those who can afford it. I remember reading that Foo guy that he said that he would rather have one good fitting jacket (i.e. bespoke from his fav tailor, Rubinacci) than 10 ill fitting. I bet that he could not live with just one jacket.

Surely there is some other sap who is into clothes that fit, and pointing and laughing at those the fail?
I did not understood this question.
 

doghouse

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I think is for those who can afford it. I remember reading that Foo guy that he said that he would rather have one good fitting jacket (i.e. bespoke from his fav tailor, Rubinacci) than 10 ill fitting. I bet that he could not live with just one jacket.



I did not understood this question.
1) Foo is a flaming narcissistic douche. Let's just get that out there. He doesn't even know what he doesn't know and his presence makes the internet that much less tolerable.

2a)Getting clothes that fit well are comfy 2b) and some people fail spectacularly at commissioning stuff and are fun to make fun of.
 

Betelgeuse

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1) Foo is a flaming narcissistic douche. Let's just get that out there. He doesn't even know what he doesn't know and his presence makes the internet that much less tolerable.

2a)Getting clothes that fit well are comfy 2b) and some people fail spectacularly at commissioning stuff and are fun to make fun of.
Re 1) Ok. :laugh1:

Re 2) Oh, got it. I haven't have commisioned something bespoke. But found a pair of Zanella trousers that fit nicely. Is like being in pijamas all day. :rock:
 

Russell Street

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Doghouse, are you implying that you get tailored clothing that is used for knocking around?
If so, I can relate. I just don't live in a suit and tie world, but benefit greatly from clothing made to suit me.
However, tailors always want to make fine showcase suiting and not just a pair of flannel pants or a casual jacket. I'm not that interested in frippery and flourishes and hand-sewn goodness. I just want to pick my cloth and some details and have it fitted.
I must add that I am lucky to have found a reasonably affordable custom tailor and that I still can only do limited amounts.
 

doghouse

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I always find the term "commissioning" in this context rather annoyingly pretentious. I simply "order" stuff.
I think it depends on the deliverer. If I'm talking to a Brit, commissioning seems natural. With an American, not so much. Unless we are talking about nautical vessels.
 

doghouse

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Doghouse, are you implying that you get tailored clothing that is used for knocking around?
If so, I can relate. I just don't live in a suit and tie world, but benefit greatly from clothing made to suit me.
However, tailors always want to make fine showcase suiting and not just a pair of flannel pants or a casual jacket. I'm not that interested in frippery and flourishes and hand-sewn goodness. I just want to pick my cloth and some details and have it fitted.
I must add that I am lucky to have found a reasonably affordable custom tailor and that I still can only do limited amounts.
I have bespoke clothing that I do use for knocking around, yes, but I am not sure I get to terribly much stuff for that express purpose except the odd tweed (casual like you mention) jacket and such. A lot of my knocking about stuff is the stuff you find over on Talk Ivy. Mid century Americana is perfect for lounging around and not looking like a slob and/or d-bag. It's a really transportable style.

When I put on a suit and tie however I am unashamedly Anglo.
 

Russell Street

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It seems that the usual reaction around here is "Erhmegerhd!!! Bespoke is for douches!!!"
I haven't run across that, but there are people that seem to do it for the wrong reason. For me (and again, I have a very small amount of made items) the appeal is a vastly better fit for my atypical frame and the ability to have input on the styling. I don't want to go around prissily announcing that I'm wearing bespoke and I don't much care how much handwork went into it except for the fact that it turns out a handsome, durable, product. I want my pants to hang straight off my non-level waist and have my shoulders look even. Being able to choose fanciful linings, 3/2 rolled lapels, or patch pockets is icing on the cake.

Over at AAAC, there are people that rush to MTM in pursuit of the 'custom' or 'bespoke' title, and wind up with horrible-fitting tripe worse than they could get off the peg. But they're so proud of the stupid working sleeve cuffs. The pursuit of bespoke as an end instead of a means to an end is indeed laughable.
 

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I think it depends on the deliverer. If I'm talking to a Brit, commissioning seems natural. With an American, not so much. Unless we are talking about nautical vessels.
I've always thought of it as a way to inflate the status of bespoke. When I think of 'commission' I think of an art piece, so when I hear people use it in reference to bespoke, I think they're trying to conflate their next suit/purchase to a work of art. Of course, this obviously lends to the d-bag factor.
 

Russell Street

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I've always thought of it as a way to inflate the status of bespoke. When I think of 'commission' I think of an art piece, so when I hear people use it in reference to bespoke, I think they're trying to conflate their next suit/purchase to a work of art. Of course, this obviously lends to the d-bag factor.
Yeah, and it always comes off to me as a signal that the buyer is financially over their head on the purchase. Instead of being something done with discretionary funds, it is a major undertaking that they have been saving up for and ZOMG I'm finally doing this! It's a friggin suit, calm down.
 

doghouse

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I haven't run across that, but there are people that seem to do it for the wrong reason. For me (and again, I have a very small amount of made items) the appeal is a vastly better fit for my atypical frame and the ability to have input on the styling. I don't want to go around prissily announcing that I'm wearing bespoke and I don't much care how much handwork went into it except for the fact that it turns out a handsome, durable, product. I want my pants to hang straight off my non-level waist and have my shoulders look even. Being able to choose fanciful linings, 3/2 rolled lapels, or patch pockets is icing on the cake.

Over at AAAC, there are people that rush to MTM in pursuit of the 'custom' or 'bespoke' title, and wind up with horrible-fitting tripe worse than they could get off the peg. But they're so proud of the stupid working sleeve cuffs. The pursuit of bespoke as an end instead of a means to an end is indeed laughable.
When I was initially trawling the site, I saw plenty of remarks of that kind, but I can't be fucked to go looking for 'em now.

I have to get shit made, as I have a really fat neck, decently broad shoulders/chest, smallish waist, and skinny legs. Nothing fits me remotely right, especially shirts and jackets. So that was my impetus. But, I'm not gonna lie, I'm a total geek for the technical side. The craft of having this stuff made fascinates me. And I could sit around with fabric samples all day dreaming up some stuff.

I also happen to get on really well with my tailors, so I love to just go bullshit with them.

I don't post on AAAAAAAAC or the Hat Lounge, mainly because as you allude to, everyone is reading at a 3rd grade level over there when it comes to life in general.

I've always thought of it as a way to inflate the status of bespoke. When I think of 'commission' I think of an art piece, so when I hear people use it in reference to bespoke, I think they're trying to conflate their next suit/purchase to a work of art. Of course, this obviously lends to the d-bag factor.
Can be. I still think it depends on the delivery. Or deliverer as it were. If Foo or Manton says it, it's clearly in a d-bag manner.
 

doghouse

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Yeah, and it always comes off to me as a signal that the buyer is financially over their head on the purchase. Instead of being something done with discretionary funds, it is a major undertaking that they have been saving up for and ZOMG I'm finally doing this! It's a friggin suit, calm down.
That shit applies to the broad swath of iGentry. Who was that clown over at SF that would rack up obscene debt with silly purchases and then cry poverty while selling them on the classifieds?
 

Russell Street

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The craft of having this stuff made fascinates me. And I could sit around with fabric samples all day dreaming up some stuff.
I also happen to get on really well with my tailors, so I love to just go bullshit with them.
This is so true. This James Bond image of some silent man measuring you up in your living room and then sending a bunch of finished items over is not my experience. It's a collaboration, even if the heavy lifting is the tailor's. I think Kabbaz talked about how the plutocrat market had very little interest in clothes and just wanted things done satisfactorily at any cost. I saw the typical 'wedding suit' customer this weekend. He knew that rack stuff didn't fit him, but was otherwise uninterested in the details. He just wanted to look good and be comfortable. Being a bit of an enthusiast, I end up spending more time and deliberating and actually trying to figure out how and why things are done. I'd do it all the time except for the fact that I end up writing hefty checks to do so.
 

Russell Street

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Oh no. I just am in the middle of my third round of purchases, so I got to wait around for my fitting while my tailor sized up a new customer ahead of me. Just the way he explained to the man the reasons why he had various fit issues was impressive. Heck, the old salesman that would accurately guess your suit size as you walked by amaze me.
 

doghouse

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This is so true. This James Bond image of some silent man measuring you up in your living room and then sending a bunch of finished items over is not my experience. It's a collaboration, even if the heavy lifting is the tailor's. I think Kabbaz talked about how the plutocrat market had very little interest in clothes and just wanted things done satisfactorily at any cost. I saw the typical 'wedding suit' customer this weekend. He knew that rack stuff didn't fit him, but was otherwise uninterested in the details. He just wanted to look good and be comfortable. Being a bit of an enthusiast, I end up spending more time and deliberating and actually trying to figure out how and why things are done. .
I can't take anything Kabbaz says with a straight face as his blimp sized ego intrudes into every word, but I agree on the balance. Ironically, I've actually gotten much less involved in micromanaging the details on my commissions :)LOLguy:). My respect for the stylistic abilities of my cutter have really grown, so I just give generalities. Which I guess the mark of a good tailor is to take my idiotic ramblings and translate them into something coherent. I do ask all sorts of annoying geeky question still though. I'm gonna get my money's worth goddammit.

I'd do it all the time except for the fact that I end up writing hefty checks to do so.
Truth.
 

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I always find the term "commissioning" in this context rather annoyingly pretentious. I simply "order" stuff.
I say "commission" if I'm with someone who knows me well enough to not give a shit (there really isn't a more accurate word) in real life and "get" online.

All my shirts since graduation have pretty much been made for me. This led to a small faux pas over on the Noodle's Good Natured Advice Thread where I suggested that a pocket on a shirt made that shirt too casual to really work with a tie. Got a few "o_O" from folks until someone clarified that all RTW shirts come with shirt pockets. I had no idea of this fact.

I was trying to find examples of A&S shoulders (trying to figure out if they're the folks that do the backwards facing shoulder seems) and stumbled across this interesting meta-threak:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?pid=155356
 

doghouse

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This thread is relevant to my interests. Will read and comment tomorrow.


that all RTW shirts come with shirt pockets.


I was trying to find examples of A&S shoulders (trying to figure out if they're the folks that do the backwards facing shoulder seems) and stumbled across this interesting meta-threak:

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?pid=155356
lulz. My second favorite thread after the Inane thread. Highly recommend it, along with the Inane. The last few posts of some of these hats had me crying.

http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?pid=317474#p317474
 

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Russell Street

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Holy shit that brings the lulz. You gotta do some recruitment there Dog. Some of those guys have appropriate senses of humor. Either that or we need an inane thread of our own.
Yeah, get Tibor over here!:lulz:
I'm going to brainstorm on how to do an inane thread knock-off that has some different angle to it, but don't let that stop anyone else from starting the snark.
In seriousness, ya really do learn as much from the failures of others as from successes.
 

doghouse

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Had my forward fitting in London for this jacket last week. Hardy Alsport brown houndstooth with blue window pane. Very pleased so far, the cloth weight is perfect fall, and holds a wicked shape.
 

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Betelgeuse

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jrd, who sadly doesn't post anymore here, got a nice houndstooth fabric from London Lounge. The scale of the houndstooth makes it look awesome.
 

doghouse

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jrd, who sadly doesn't post anymore here, got a nice houndstooth fabric from London Lounge. The scale of the houndstooth makes it look awesome.
I remember that stuff. I wasn't too keen on the texture, but it was a very nice pattern.

I like the blue windowpane in this Hardy. I wore some marine blue cotton pants to the forward fitting and it really set it off nicely.
 

Betelgeuse

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I remember that stuff. I wasn't too keen on the texture, but it was a very nice pattern.

I like the blue windowpane in this Hardy. I wore some marine blue cotton pants to the forward fitting and it really set it off nicely.
It is this one:

 

doghouse

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Gossip on LL is that a whole group of Huntsman tailors are defecting to Dunhill of all places.

:holyfeck:
 
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