Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
258
Picked me cloth for me jacket.

Tis this...


Patern Ref: 28145

500 grms (17.5oz) Linen in a Twill weave !!!!!! Its a Linen behemoth....

Styleeee. SBPL with 1-button closing, welt chest and 2 patch pockets...

I just thought fuck it why not...
 

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Great White Snark

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Messages
592
Huntsman navy blazer, same type of material and features as a suit coat for the most part.
View attachment 34810



I am playing a junior role here today, and l am not embarrassed about it because l know big daddies need to earn their stripes over many years. All different areas have BIG daddies...some are BIG daddies of shirts, some are BIG daddies of shoos, while others are BIG daddies of everything. When it comes to coats, l am still a joonior climbing the ladder. I might not be the big grand master of BIG daddies, but at least l have a couple of BIG daddy titles under my belt. It's good to be a BIG daddy, and it takes years to become one, and only certain types get to become a BIG daddy. :fap:
Well you’re definitely a big something, there’s no doubt about that.
 

formby002

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Messages
258
The Shooman The Shooman Personally l would never play the role of a junior bespoke blazer man myself, but l can understand why some people of lesser caliber in the bespoke blazer world do. Most will never be at high positions in the bespoke blazer world, so their understanding and actions they take will always fall short of those with the pure pedigree. The real deal bespoke men (bespoke men who have bespoke in their blood) ALWAYS know the pretenders and johnny come lately types.
The thing is its a no-brainer. All the merchants carry cloths suitable for a classic Blazer in their city books. Twills in a few different shades and Hopsacks in a few different shades. Maybe a few different weights too. His tailor should point him straight to them. I have seen blazers done in barathea, faille and lightweight flannel however.

Then its down to the details, and even here its straight forward if he wants a classic blazer.

This isn't alpha-dog stuff, it aint even alpha-puppy stuff.
 

ASSHAT

Well-Known Member
Messages
177
The thing is its a no-brainer. All the merchants carry cloths suitable for a classic Blazer in their city books. Twills in a few different shades and Hopsacks in a few different shades. Maybe a few different weights too. His tailor should point him straight to them. I have seen blazers done in barathea, faille and lightweight flannel however.

Then its down to the details, and even here its straight forward if he wants a classic blazer.

This isn't alpha-dog stuff, it aint even alpha-puppy stuff.
obviously
 

formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
258
Some of these hopsacks from H&S are interesting. Don't know how they'll make up though...

edit: There are some classic all wool hops at the bottom.

 
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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,483
The thing is its a no-brainer.

Then its down to the details, and even here its straight forward if he wants a classic blazer.
Formby, you are right, it is a no brainer. I slept on it last night and l know what to do. This thread has helped me.

My order:
- notched lapels
- patch pockets
- gold buttons
- lesser fabric (that l chose)....definitely want that fabric. Why? Because l am a quirky guy, and during the Spring and Autumn navy blue or purple museum calf shoos by Johnny Lobb will be worn with it at times, so a stunning material will need to be worn to match the stunning shoes. Other times it will be black or brown shoes.

I will love a coat like that.

Done.
 
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Walter

Well-Known Member
Messages
106
Formby, you are right, it is a no brainer. I slept on it last night and l know what to do. This thread has helped me.

My order:
- notched lapels
- patch pockets
- gold buttons
- lesser fabric (that l chose)....definitely want that fabric.

I will love a coat like that.

Done.
Great. How many buttons? All patch pockets? Or a regular breat pocket?
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
71
Just a simple two buttoned coat, patch pocket on each side, a regular breast pocket. Keeping it simple.
Perfect, and shouldn't be more complicated than that.

On Friday I'm going back to Naples to pick up a similar one I commissioned from Antonio Panico. I opted for the same configuration, no gold buttons, not a huge fan of them


1st fitting


2nd. fitting
 

Walter

Well-Known Member
Messages
106
Perfect, and shouldn't be more complicated than that.

On Friday I'm going back to Naples to pick up a similar one I commissioned from Antonio Panico. I opted for the same configuration, no gold buttons, not a huge fan of them


1st fitting


2nd. fitting
It might be the pictures, but most of your jackets seem to be on the shorter side of the spectrum. Is that how you specify it to your tailors, or just what they tend to cut for your body?
 

aristoi bcn

Spanish Rookie
Messages
381
Perfect, and shouldn't be more complicated than that.

On Friday I'm going back to Naples to pick up a similar one I commissioned from Antonio Panico. I opted for the same configuration, no gold buttons, not a huge fan of them


1st fitting


2nd. fitting
I already asked you in IG, but what cashmere did you chose for this piece? It looks good but the machine stitched collar it's a bit off-putting in top bespoke.
 

formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
258
Formby, you are right, it is a no brainer. I slept on it last night and l know what to do. This thread has helped me.

My order:
- notched lapels
- patch pockets
- gold buttons
- lesser fabric (that l chose)....definitely want that fabric. Why? Because l am a quirky guy, and during the Spring and Autumn navy blue or purple museum calf shoos by Johnny Lobb will be worn with it at times, so a stunning material will need to be worn to match the stunning shoes. Other times it will be black or brown shoes.

I will love a coat like that.

Done.
Goody. I, and I suspect some members of TeamDessedWell were begining to have doubts over your supposed shoe expertise given your indecision and lack of knowledge about cloth. We were begining to think; could it be, shock...horror.....a bluff...?

A Blazer is one of the easier (easiest) garments to specify. Typically Twill for winter, hopsack for summer. You do of course have lightweight twills and heavyweight hopsacks so you could reverse or have seasonal varients in one cloth type only if you so wished. There are a also a few others you can throw into the mix too. Panama weaves, Frescos and the others I mentioned in an earlier post, but Twill (serge) and hopsack are the traditional cloths. Now, in your sitution (climate) I would deffo go with hopsack, not twill. Its soft, breathes better than twill (but not as good as Fresco), drapes and tailors well and looks lovely made-up.

Now, if you said you wanted a Blue/navy sports coat, well that would have been a different thing altogether, many more possibilities to discuss...

I will put this bout of indecision (acute iGentitis) down to the ongoing coronavirus emergency down under.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
71
It might be the pictures, but most of your jackets seem to be on the shorter side of the spectrum. Is that how you specify it to your tailors, or just what they tend to cut for your body?
I think that's how the tend to cut. I don't usually need to specify length, but I tend to test it to my thumb's nuckle. This is pretty much where this falls.
 

belinmad

Well-Known Member
Messages
71
I already asked you in IG, but what cashmere did you chose for this piece? It looks good but the machine stitched collar it's a bit off-putting in top bespoke.
Let me double check my notes and get back to you, but I'm pretty sure its from the Drapers cashmere book.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,483
Let me double check my notes and get back to you, but I'm pretty sure its from the Drapers cashmere book.
Can you tell us about Frank: is he a nice bloke, how good are his suits?

Looks like he is a tough fella and would take no nonsense, be he seems passionate and has a really nice side to him, and you see it in this video shine through. He makes a smashing coat in this video.

Does he still makes suits?
 

doghouse

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A number of blokes bag Frank on this forum. How come? Just another bloke isn't he?
Do you have London Lounge login? I would suggest starting there and look at Frank's posting history, particularly his inane rules and general ridiculousness and abrasiveness. I let everyone come to their own conclusions on anyone, I'm not the arbiter of anything, so you need to decide for yourself. I think the guy is a royal piece of shit personally though.

I'd also like to point out Shoeey you are one of my all time favorite posters, going back to the early FNB days, so anything I offer to you is in good faith. I'm not trolling you with any advice or my thoughts.
 

formby002

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Messages
258
Do you have London Lounge login? I would suggest starting there and look at Frank's posting history, particularly his inane rules and general ridiculousness and abrasiveness. I let everyone come to their own conclusions on anyone, I'm not the arbiter of anything, so you need to decide for yourself. I think the guy is a royal piece of shit personally though.

I'd also like to point out Shoeey you are one of my all time favorite posters, going back to the early FNB days, so anything I offer to you is in good faith. I'm not trolling you with any advice or my thoughts.
Didn't Manto have a suit made by him?

I think Shattuck apprenticed under the tailor (who was very good) who made for Marc Grayson....Whatever happened to him?
 

ASSHAT

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Messages
177
Do you have London Lounge login? I would suggest starting there and look at Frank's posting history, particularly his inane rules and general ridiculousness and abrasiveness. I let everyone come to their own conclusions on anyone, I'm not the arbiter of anything, so you need to decide for yourself. I think the guy is a royal piece of shit personally though.

I'd also like to point out Shoeey you are one of my all time favorite posters, going back to the early FNB days, so anything I offer to you is in good faith. I'm not trolling you with any advice or my thoughts.
this basically. One of his best episodes was when he had a falling out with Alden, capo of the London Lounge. He erased the posts fairly quickly and is back in his good graces, but the internet never forgets
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doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
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doghouse

King Of The Elite Idiots
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manton had one suit with like 30 fittings. Frank fired him as a client.
That's right. I totally forgot about that. I may have to revise my opinion of Frank upward.

I think Foo's Hermes wallet saga has blocked out many other foibles from back in the day.
 

ballmouse

Well-Known Member
Messages
123
What always bothered me about that Bourdain suit was how the trousers looked unfinished.

Didn't Frank learn from Henry Stewart? He was a pretty famous tailor back in the day. I think he did the coats in Goodfellas. There was a quote he made about how when De Niro is beating the shit out of someone in that movie, he was very proud his coat collar doesn't move from his neck.

 

formby002

Well-Known Member
Messages
258
manton had one suit with like 30 fittings. Frank fired him as a client.

grayson’s tailor Raphael did indeed train frank at one point.
Ha ha...yeah I remember now, the multiple fittings saga. Didn't RJMan do a similar thing...

These tales represent the best of times on the clothing websites....there was some right lunatic behaviour. LOL.
 

ASSHAT

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Messages
177
frank first learned from sicilian twin brothers in upstate new york. He then moved to NYC and worked with a variety of tailors including henry stewart. His last teacher was Raphaël
 

ASSHAT

Well-Known Member
Messages
177
Ha ha...yeah I remember now, the multiple fittings saga. Didn't RJMan do a similar thing...

These tales represent the best of times on the clothing websites....there was some right lunatic behaviour. LOL.
Ha ha...yeah I remember now, the multiple fittings saga. Didn't RJMan do a similar thing...

These tales represent the best of times on the clothing websites....there was some right lunatic behaviour. LOL.
Absolutely the best of times on the boards. The crazy shirt maker from ask andy alexander kabaz. The shoo pyramid guy. Horace. Grayson, FNB before he founded his own message board. RJ man, the guy with 600 pairs of EGs, dopey, the old man from a suitable wardrobe, marc seitelman (who’d want you to tell the oxxford suit salesman his name) lots of characters
 
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formby002

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Messages
258
There was also a Lawyer, who used a Greek tailor who had appalling taste. I think he was California way too.

I can't remember the posters name now.
 
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