Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

doghouse

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I managed to snag a length of the Mr Slowboy/Fox collaboration boating stripe fabric (the last length apparently!).

I may do it as the first true 3 button suit I've ever done.

Screenshot_20201129-104922_Instagram.jpg
 

The Shooman

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Received two shirts from my shirtmaker today. Got a couple of surprises as the two designs were not exactly how l asked for them, but that was my mistake and not his. Were supposed to be flap pockets, and the blue shirt was supposed to be navy blue and white check instead of the lighter blue. Never mind, sometimes these things can happen.

Summer shirts with a pajama collar. This style of shirts are difficult to make, but he makes a great pajama collar and it really makes the summer shirt look striking.
Bespoke-shirt-blue.jpg
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Bespoke-shirt-purple.jpg
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Lobbster

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Why are some guys so afraid of taking proper photos? This shit looks like something my first phone camera produced almost 20 years ago.
 

Lobbster

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I get the toilet shots with their slight homoeroticism while hinting at a little gloryhole romance. It's not gay if everyone does it, right? You know, getting close at the urinal, checking each others cocks. But why post photos when you're afraid to show the shithole you live in?
 

The Shooman

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Why are some guys so afraid of taking proper photos? This shit looks like something my first phone camera produced almost 20 years ago.

Yeah l know. My photos have been really bad lately and don't do justice to how nice my shirts really are. I have my purple gingham check shirt on today and it looks absolutely stunning and nothing like a cheap looking rag like in the photo.

Photo of the new shirt and colour scheme of my outfit for today. The outfit works like a beauty, and the shirt has total wow factor. New summer wardrobe in action today.

- bespoke shirt
- custom cottom navy trousers
- John Lobb loafers
- Viccel pink sox

Todays outfit 1.jpg
Todays outfit 2.jpg


I'll try to remember to post my other shirt another day. I will pair it with white trousers; it will look amazing too.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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Yeah l know. My photos have been really bad lately and don't do justice to how nice my shirts really are. I have my purple gingham check shirt on today and it looks absolutely stunning and nothing like a cheap looking rag like in the photo.

Photo of the new shirt and colour scheme of my outfit for today. The outfit works like a beauty, and the shirt has total wow factor. New summer wardrobe in action today.

- bespoke shirt
- custom cottom navy trousers
- John Lobb loafers
- Viccel pink sox

View attachment 35877View attachment 35878

I'll try to remember to post my other shirt another day. I will pair it with white trousers; it will look amazing too.
Move over Crusty.

Good to see the Lopez are recovering.
 

The Shooman

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Got my shirts made with more room in the sleeves this time. I like it much better. I like my shirts to be comfortable.

I'll post some more shoo pics, but you aren't gonna like it Sammy, my shoes have rolls on the vamp and some wrinkles. :are.you.serious:
 

Rambo

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Yeah l know. My photos have been really bad lately and don't do justice to how nice my shirts really are. I have my purple gingham check shirt on today and it looks absolutely stunning and nothing like a cheap looking rag like in the photo.

Photo of the new shirt and colour scheme of my outfit for today. The outfit works like a beauty, and the shirt has total wow factor. New summer wardrobe in action today.

- bespoke shirt
- custom cottom navy trousers
- John Lobb loafers
- Viccel pink sox

View attachment 35877View attachment 35878

I'll try to remember to post my other shirt another day. I will pair it with white trousers; it will look amazing too.
i dont know about that shirt/sock combo shooey. i think you either gotta go all purple or something more neutral there.
 

fxh

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Pink socks clearly show a man of wealth and taste.
Oh my name is Jock Stewart
I'm a canny gun man
And a roving young fellow I've been
So be easy and free
When you're drinking with me
I'm a man you don't meet every day
I have acres of land
I have men at command
I have always a shilling to spare
So be easy and free
When you're drinking with me
I'm a man you don't meet every day
So come fill up your glasses
Of brandy and wine
Whatever it costs I will pay
So be easy and free
When you're drinking with me
I'm a man you don't meet every day
Well I took out my dog
And him I did shoot
All down in the county Kildare
So be easy and free
When you're drinking with me
I'm a man…
 

The Shooman

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i dont know about that shirt/sock combo shooey. i think you either gotta go all purple or something more neutral there.
It was one of those things l didn't think too much about. I could have chosen mauve sox with a pattern or purple pattern and made it perfect, but I didn't give a rats backside and did pink instead. What makes it better is that it was a random thing, and the pink adds character to it all. I was in a casual environment, the flowers were out, and it was all a bit of fun and it brightened my day. Best choice ever given the situation.
 
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The Shooman

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you could also have burned them. if it was between mauve and pink, stick with the pink. mauve is an awful color in general.
Mauve with patterns is good when you have purple shoos. It can work!

btw, l have purple socks that match the pattern of my shirt. Got about 8 pairs of the same sock, all wool/silk blends.

Talking about socks, I used to have about 100 pairs of the same sock once, all navy. Some l have 20 copies, others only 10 copies, and others only 2 or 3 multiples. It's good to have spare pairs.
 
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The Shooman

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Here is my other bespoke shirt, a nice shade of blue and it is buttoned on the wider cuff to give extra room on this warm summer day. It was supposed to be in a navy/white gingham, but this is still an excellent blue and works well with what l have on.

- custom white cotton wide leg trousers made from Dugdale fabric
- bespoke gingham check shirt with pajama collar specially cut to be worn untucked. Cotton from Monti I Dogi cotton
- vass shoos
- viccel sox (love these socks/trouser/shoo combo

Everything is exactly how l want it to be. It's nice to reach that sweet point.

Todays outfit 7.jpg
 
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belinmad

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Here is my other bespoke shirt, a nice shade of blue and it is buttoned on the wider cuff to give extra room on this warm summer day. It was supposed to be in a navy/white gingham, but this is still an excellent blue and works well with what l have on.

- custom white cotton wide leg trousers made from Dugdale fabric
- bespoke gingham check shirt with pajama collar specially cut to be worn untucked. Cotton from Monti I Dogi cotton
- vass shoos
- viccel sox (love these socks/trouser/shoo combo

Everything is exactly how l want it to be. It's nice to reach that sweet point.

View attachment 35908

Can you show the pajama collar?
I have the same socks. They are great.
 

The Shooman

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Can you show the pajama collar?
I have the same socks. They are great.

YES, l definitely wanted to talk about the pajama collar. In the summer time everyone is wearing either button down collars or a summer shirt with a conventional business collar, and all of them look messy and inappropriate for the casual warm season, it is because the factories just whip on any old collar with no attention to detail. The shirt collar is usually a mess on shirts worn in public, and rarely is it a feature of such beauty and perfection that it gets second looks.

However my shirtmaker makes a pajama collar that is a masterpiece, and it does get compliments and subtle second looks. It is a major display feature of the shirt, and it is always perfectly in place. It sits high along the back of the neck with a big wide collar without being overdone. The collar has no structure to it, yet it sits perfectly each time. It is nothing like a normal pajama collar which looks weak and insignificant, instead this look can only be had bespoke, and only then by a very experienced and top maker. My shirt maker tells me it is very difficult to makes these.

I bought my John Lobb recently at the shop and the owner said something like "wow, that shirt collar looks absolutely awesome, who made that shirt, I would love a shirt that looks like that".

Here is the pajama collar. The statement it makes is this:

It tells people you know about manly elegance
It tells people you are the boss
(people know it by the subtle look they give).
It tells people you know what you are doing.

Pajama collar 1.jpg

That shirt above is a masterpiece that took over 8 hours to make. He makes shirts for all kinds of important people, yet he said he would have never made a shirt like this for anyone else except maybe a King, and only then if the King was really lucky. Why? Because the shirt was extremely difficult to make and intricate.

He made me 2 shirts that took 2 long days in all (one in white and one in light blue from a rare acorn 3 ply fabric that is fantastic in the summer).

This shirt and the one above have 4 pockets; two at the top and 2 at the bottom. It is cut to be worn untucked. All have pajama collars. Pay close attention to all the pleats and how the shirt is cut, took ages to make all those pleats even and sew them.

Look at the area near the buttons how the underneath fold starts narrow at the bottom of the shirt and goes wider near the top. It tells me that this man really knows what he is doing, and indeed he is a shirtmakers shirtmaker.
Shirt - my masterpiece.jpg
 

The Shooman

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A lovely shoe as well as being a good fit. Hand welted?

Sammy, the pictures of this shoe don't do it any justice. It is stunning in real life and hasn't aged a bit over the last 13 years of regular wear. The leather quality and build is top notch. In real life you can't even see the folds and wrinkles on the shoe unless you look very carefully.

The shoe never came into it's full beauty until l stopped using Saphir and started using Boot Black shoe products. What transformed it was 3 products: deep rich moisture, two plus lotion (very important) and Artists palette.

People bag Vass saying it uses cheaper leather, but it is not as simple as that. Vass source some of the best leather; my wholecut from Vass uses better leather than my Materna bespoke. Truthfully, Vass' leather quality varies a lot, so it tells me they cut a number of shoes from the same leather hide. My wholecut had amazing leather yet my brogue had lesser quality leather, so it all varies, but they do source top stuff. Recently an ex Vass seller was saying Vass pays more than most firms for the leather because it buys the best of the best.

Vass also have one of the sharpest featherlines of all. The uppers are hand lasted and the feather is hand carved, so the way the upper that runs along the featherline has a much clearer definition that with any goodyear welted shoe. It makes for a very tidy shoe. I-gents don't appreciate all the finer things like this. This is one of many great things to come from hand welted shoes. The hands can create a level of artistry that machines never can; comparing John Lobb rtw to Vass rtw is like night and day. Machine welting to a plastic feather is never going to get those clean lines. Even worse with machine lasted. A connoisseurs eyes sees all these things, so he likes to pay more for a good shoe because it involves having so many more things than a factory shoe could ever offer. The Lobb rtw lacks the finer things, but it is still a beautiful shoe with very nice leather on a great last with a perfect pattern.

Vass are/were high quality because the shoes never seem to age, however Igents have cheapened the brand by turning it into a designer brand in recent years, and recently Vass have been caught making the heel blocks out of compressed cardboard.
 
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The Shooman

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The other great thing my shirtmaker does is build special things into the design which gives the shirt a really clean look so it doesn't sag or flop. The front is really clean because he puts that extra piece of material behind the front of the shirt so everything stays in place.

The collar is unstructured, yet it never moves. All l do is roll my collar back and it stays there. If l roll my collar wrong it will also stay like that all day.

My maker prefers to machine sew his shirts (I much prefer this too), and his sewing and pattern matching is extremely precise (pics later).
 

Kingstonian

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Here is my other bespoke shirt, a nice shade of blue and it is buttoned on the wider cuff to give extra room on this warm summer day. It was supposed to be in a navy/white gingham, but this is still an excellent blue and works well with what l have on.

- custom white cotton wide leg trousers made from Dugdale fabric
- bespoke gingham check shirt with pajama collar specially cut to be worn untucked. Cotton from Monti I Dogi cotton
- vass shoos
- viccel sox (love these socks/trouser/shoo combo

Everything is exactly how l want it to be. It's nice to reach that sweet point.

View attachment 35908
Not at all how I visualise Shooman.

I think of twelve ply jumpers, heavyweight tweed and big, clumpy AustroHungarian style shoes or boots -Budapesters etc.

Colours seem very bright. I expected something more Victorian (in time, not Australian geography).
 

The Shooman

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Not at all how I visualise Shooman.

I think of twelve ply jumpers, heavyweight tweed and big, clumpy AustroHungarian style shoes or boots -Budapesters etc.

Colours seem very bright. I expected something more Victorian (in time, not Australian geography).

My summer time style is quite different. None-the-less, during the cold season l go all out with heavy clothes and shoes and coats. It's my favourite time. During the average weather l wear high waisted trousers and sportscoats, but still reasonably heavy fabrics.
 
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The Shooman

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Today was a good day eventhough it rained hard for about 8 hours. Had my basted fitting, and already things looked very promising. My tailor knows exactly what l like, and he summed me up even better than l could have when he said l "had very regal tastes". I smiled when he said that because I knew l was in good hands. The choice of fabric Lesser & Son 12 oz was a perfect choice for me for a navy sportscoat with notched lapels and patch pockets; I wanted a very regal looking fabric for a sportscoat.

The basted fitting was very clean, but most interesting was how he fitted me around my right shoulder (have a very problematic shoulder that has gotten worse over the years). He made big adjustments for the shoulder, but it still wasn't enough, , so he took the arm off and made more adjustments, and within minutes magic appeared and the shoulder line was perfect and transforming. It was at that moment that the regal presence came into being. Not too much padding on the shoulder, yet a decent strong shoulder without going to extremes. The end result will be a moderately roped shoulder.

The collar fitted to the neck as well as you could imagine despite me doing all different movements in it and carefully examining the neck. Most importantly, my coat has great balance, but even more important is that l had room to move in it. I don't like tight clothes, but l like clean cuts made with comfort. His strong points are balancing garments, his special formulae for making collars not come off the neck, and great draping sleeves.

I don't like posting pictures of bespoke because l don't like people's narrow idea that bespoke must look a certain way (very very close cut fitting for a model). For me bespoke is about clean cut, comfort, looking regal (looking like a King while being approachable), the great transformation that takes place, and a total indulgence in ones highest dreams. lt's a very personal thing that doesn't want input from the outside world. I don't like the idea of using bespoke for status and showing off on forums, that is not what l am about.

Just a sneak peak on the hanger. Maybe a couple of sneak peaks of the sleeves, balance and collar in time. We'll see how l feel.

One thing l do know, l know l am in good hands.

Bespoke sportscoat - me.jpg
 

The Shooman

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My tailor reckons he can special order me 20 - 22 oz tweeds for the winter for both a coat and trousers. My idea will be for a rough coating fabric like this (not exactly what l want, but it gives you an idea):
Harris Tweed - for bespoke.jpg

with a dark brown donegal tweed with speckles in it. That would make a fantastic combination paired with cashmere turtlenecks of various collars.

He can get offcuts of the tweeds to show me.

In the meantime l am going to order a pair of bone pair of trousers made from Huddersfield cloth in 14 oz and a pair of dark grey Lessor & Sons for a regal experience in 11/12 oz 30948. Both trousers will have wide legs just like this (below) because l love the look and the comfort. To me it looks very gentlemanly and sophisticated.
Wide legged trousers.jpg

A man should have beautiful trousers, but few men do. I haven't had great trousers made in years, but l told my tailor that my trousers must be works of art...absolute clean masterpieces. I told him l want amazing regal trousers. I want perfect trousers. Trousers are so underestimated in a man's wardrobe.
 

belinmad

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The choice of fabric Lesser & Son 12 oz was a perfect choice for me for a navy sportscoat with notched lapels and patch pockets; I wanted a very regal looking fabric for a sportscoat.

Excellent choice Shoey - I Lesser 12oz is such a great fabric, versatile, old school looking, comfortable hand and great drape.

One thing l do know, l know l am in good hands.

View attachment 36144

looking good. Who is your tailor, if I may ask?
 

The Shooman

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Excellent choice Shoey - I Lesser 12oz is such a great fabric, versatile, old school looking, comfortable hand and great drape.



looking good. Who is your tailor, if I may ask?

I have never mentioned my bespoke tailors ever, but they are very good. Very few tailors in Oz are seen as worthy of being allowed to work with Lessor & Sons.

He is the tailor you go to when you want to indulge in really great clothes. It is a real treat to have something made from him.

If l could have 5 sportscoats and about 8 pairs of trousers made by him, l would be very happy. Having a small wardrobe of impeccable clothes is all l would need. I would rather quality over quantity. With shirts it is the same....I have a small selection (about 20), but every single shirt is a masterpiece and made exactly the way l want it. I love every single item in my wardrobe.
 

doghouse

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A man should have beautiful trousers, but few men do. I haven't had great trousers made in years, but l told my tailor that my trousers must be works of art...absolute clean masterpieces. I told him l want amazing regal trousers. I want perfect trousers. Trousers are so underestimated in a man's wardrobe.
No doubt. I ordered a couple pair last fall. Hopefully the UK gets itself back open soon so I can get them delivered.
 

The Shooman

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No doubt. I ordered a couple pair last fall. Hopefully the UK gets itself back open soon so I can get them delivered.

A man shouldn't skimp on trousers. I find that rtw trousers are generally not up to scratch for many reasons; the cut is usually no good and the materials are not luxurious enough, especially in Oz. The best trouser we will get are basically Canali, but that is not enough for a great trouser experience. I like a decent trouser made from English or Scottish fabrics, the Italians don't do it for me.

I go into the city tomorrow to pick up some trousers, yet once again it is going to be pouring heavy rain all day, the same as last Friday when l went in, and humid with storms. Aghh.
 

fxh

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I'm in the city tomorrow - in the morning up in Carlton getting new specs then down city to a looooong lunch at the RACV Club. After that in afternoon - depending how wet it is I might wander around the clothes shops and then call in and see Sebastien at American Tailors.

I dunno if I should take a coat and umbrella or just umbrella. Probably wear my mushroom cotton suit and loafers.
 

The Shooman

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I'm in the city tomorrow - in the morning up in Carlton getting new specs then down city to a looooong lunch at the RACV Club. After that in afternoon - depending how wet it is I might wander around the clothes shops and then call in and see Sebastien at American Tailors.

I dunno if I should take a coat and umbrella or just umbrella. Probably wear my mushroom cotton suit and loafers.
Not a good day tomorrow for fun things. Too hot and wet. What type of umbrella do you have, something manly?

I might have to visit Sebastien soon.
 
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