Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Just for The Shooman The Shooman and Sartodi Napoli Sartodi Napoli

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What means self styled doctorate and jailbird?

Has he been a jail convict?

I am interested, please explain further.

He is the main cluster B expert in English at this time ( who happens to be khazarian jw)
From WIKI:: Vaknin was born in Kiryat Yam, Israel, the eldest of five children born to Sephardi Jewish immigrants. Vaknin's mother was from Turkey, and his father, a construction worker, was from Morocco.

So hes a Morrocan Jew - for you
 
edit, your second post with the video can´t be seen.
Which one - I did link to a long interesting Australian Documentary about Vaknin. Maybe its is blocked in your country for some reason.

This one - its on YouTube here - made by an Australian

I, Psychopath (Full Documentary) | Dark Crimes - 55minutes

Meet Sam Vaknin, author of the book Malignant Self Love. Sam knows he’s a supreme narcissist, but is he also, as he suspects, a psychopath? To find out, he becomes the world’s first civilian volunteer to be thoroughly tested for psychopathy. Along the way, Vaknin encounters the minefield of scientific, ethical, moral and social issues involved in owning that label. When things don’t quite go his way, he turns on the film-makers, unleashing vicious displays of verbal abuse, and some free psychological analysis of his own. Then, there's his wife Lidija. She wants a baby, but isn't sure that Sam is suitable parent material. And to make things worse, Lidija’s sister believes she’s been brainwashed by her twelve years with Sam. I, Psychopath is a classic road trip/head trip movie, with a strong narrative, jeopardy, a cast of engaging characters and an irreverent gonzo style.

 
On FNB Wardrobe Formby once mentioned a video he had of himself whirling his arms about in a newly tailored bespoke jacket where the collar stayed stubbornly on the neck

As it should be. Popped on my coat and stood in front of the mirror earlier too, waving my arms around; same thing as Formby's experience.

My tailor worked on various suits of famous tailors over the years. He has high praise for Nino Corvato, but not such a fan of numerous Savile Row houses due to their cutting skills.

Film Noir Buff said:
"His jackets never move when unbuttoned, which means his patterns are excellent".

Given this, Nino Corvato must have been an excellent cutter. But as usual, the igents rarely talked about this tailor. They like talking about the big names (forum favourites).
 
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Here is a Rapheal bespoke that igents had incredibly high praise for...spoken about like he was a tailoring God, yet there are also issues with this too. There is movement in the coat and it is pulling off the neck on the side (worst issue) and at the back of the neck. It is not sitting squarely on his shoulders and balanced to ensure it stays in place. The forums never dare to talk about this stuff, and it is why the forums are so dumb. Gotta praise the big names at all times.

According to FNB, if it was a Corvato coat that shift/movement in the coat would not be happening.
Rapheal bespoke 1.jpg
 
Here is a Rapheal bespoke that igents had incredibly high praise for...spoken about like he was a tailoring God, yet there are also issues with this too. There is movement in the coat and it is pulling off the neck on the side (worst issue) and at the back of the neck. It is not sitting squarely on his shoulders and balanced to ensure it stays in place. The forums never dare to talk about this stuff, and it is why the forums are so dumb. Gotta praise the big names at all times.

According to FNB, if it was a Corvato coat that shift/movement in the coat would not be happening.
View attachment 45844
Yes. The shirts don't look too good. Badly made women's blouses masquerading as shirts. Maybe?



How many times do I have to explain that blouse like was made by Finamore years before I studied this?

The rest are commercial shirts but a test one that was yet in testing. I had this poster in 1991 in my room when teen
He is NOT the MAIN cluster expert in English or any other language - he's a self promoting bullshit artist


I like when you hate him. I suspected he was a psychopath either. Well, goes in the dna of those... u know.

About him, I have realiced big fails on him. He said flashbacks only come in postraumatic type 1 ( single success as earthcake, rape etc) not in the type 2, social psychopaths surrounding for years. While flashbacks do come in both, specially in the second.
Here is a Rapheal bespoke that igents had incredibly high praise for...spoken about like he was a tailoring God, yet there are also issues with this too. There is movement in the coat and it is pulling off the neck on the side (worst issue) and at the back of the neck. It is not sitting squarely on his shoulders and balanced to ensure it stays in place. The forums never dare to talk about this stuff, and it is why the forums are so dumb. Gotta praise the big names at all times.

According to FNB, if it was a Corvato coat that shift/movement in the coat would not be happening.
View attachment 45844


great suit! even the pose looks Jim Lee´s X-men

cb91b05129bc6ed5687706e2fdc399f5.jpg
 
Here is a Rapheal bespoke that igents had incredibly high praise for...spoken about like he was a tailoring God, yet there are also issues with this too. There is movement in the coat and it is pulling off the neck on the side (worst issue) and at the back of the neck. It is not sitting squarely on his shoulders and balanced to ensure it stays in place. The forums never dare to talk about this stuff, and it is why the forums are so dumb. Gotta praise the big names at all times.

According to FNB, if it was a Corvato coat that shift/movement in the coat would not be happening.
View attachment 45844

Who the fuck is “Rapheal”? Also this gent’s stance is a mess - not sure it’s accurate to make all these assertions based on that one pic.
On FNB Wardrobe Formby once mentioned a video he had of himself whirling his arms about in a newly tailored bespoke jacket where the collar stayed stubbornly on the neck

Say what you will about Frank Shattuck in terms of being a cluster a/b/c psycho, but that man has already forgotten more about patterns and cuts than most of us will ever know. We spent a lot of time talking about the collar and how it should stay bolted to your neck. He admired cutters like like Henry Stewart for his ability to cut suits that would stay glued to shoulders and neck

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I’ve posted elsewhere the suits he cut for me. He would joke that with a properly cut suit (collar and armholes) you should be able to pick up the phone to your ear and the suit should not move one inch.

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He is the one who quickly pointed out that my John Kent suit has a significant collar gap issue. As I’ve told the story before, I brought the coat back to John, who kindly recut it immediately to fix the issue.

JK Collar 1 - Before:
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JK Collar 2 - After:


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Notice how the collar comes slightly off the neck with certain movements (about 2 or 3 mm off), but then it bounces right back again. See, with a lot of tailors it will stay off the neck, but with Maurice Sedwell they go back into their proper place because the suit was cut and balanced correctly.

Shooey, this is a bunch of nonsense. A well cut suit should stay bolted to your neck. This “going off but bouncing right back” is not a feature, it’s poor cutting.
 

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Who the fuck is “Rapheal”? Also this gent’s stance is a mess - not sure it’s accurate to make all these assertions based on that one pic.

Yeah, l know. I was a bit naughty there.
Say what you will about Frank Shattuck in terms of being a cluster a/b/c psycho, but that man has already forgotten more about patterns and cuts than most of us will ever know. We spent a lot of time talking about the collar and how it should stay bolted to your neck. He admired cutters like like Henry Stewart for his ability to cut suits that would stay glued to shoulders and neck

View attachment 45846

I’ve posted elsewhere the suits he cut for me. He would joke that with a properly cut suit (collar and armholes) you should be able to pick up the phone to your ear and the suit should not move one inch.

View attachment 45847

He is the one who quickly pointed out that my John Kent suit has a significant collar gap issue. As I’ve told the story before, I brought the coat back to John, who kindly recut it immediately to fix the issue.

JK Collar 1 - Before:
View attachment 45848

Great pictures. Now this is the type of conversation l like.



Still not ideal though is it.
Shooey, this is a bunch of nonsense. A well cut suit should stay bolted to your neck. This “going off but bouncing right back” is not a feature, it’s poor cutting.

O.k belinmad belinmad ...I was trying to be nice. Of course it is not right and his technique is flawed, but l was trying to be nice....why?...because l have probably irritated so many people by going against the group think that a bunch of them are probably ready to string me up. People don't like raw truth. I won't sugar coat it anymore.

Remember belinmad belinmad ...it's o.k for us guys to say it how it is because we are the BIG collar daddies, but a lot of these guys who have these crummy collars get savage when it is exposed, and the last thing l want to do is exchange with angry people, therefore l toned it down and told a few white lies by saying something is good when clearly it is not. Anyway...at least Andrew is half way there....miles ahead of many `so called' great tailors.
 
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Lets talk about power suits. Check out this 80's suit by William Fioravanti. Real BIG daddy suits made for the `board room daddies' of New York. Below is a big daddy lawyer, and he certainly looks the part with those power shoulders and lapels. Wow, what a great suit....wish l had one. A real man's suit....so American looking.
william fioravanti bespoke - Barry Slotnick 5.jpg
william fioravanti bespoke - Barry Slotnick 2.jpg


This bloke was said to be the tailor of tailors, and as usual, no igents ever used him. What is the story with Fioravanti? Who wore his suits? Were his lapels more narrow after the 90's?

I checked Fioravanti's own collars, and while it bulges out a bit in places, it never seems to shift from his neck in numerous photos. Maybe he was the big daddy New York tailor like everyone said.

So what has happened to the power suits? Have they gone out of fashion? Does anyone make them today?

I really love the power suits, they look so manly, and they make a bloke look like a BIG daddy. A bloke would need good height to pull one of those off though.

Yes belinmad belinmad , yes l checked some of Henry Stewart's suits and they are beauties. It is interesting because in the early days Frank wasn't able to make the collars sit on the back of the neck, but eventually he worked it out. Maybe Henry Stewart was that guy. My tailor had to work it out by himself, he is an innovator and had to work out many things by himself.

The igents say various Australian tailors are the best of the best, but they have collars off the necks too. See what l am saying?....too much male-cow-poo said on the forums, it's all just talk and hype. See belinmad belinmad ...now we're doing proper man's talk, none of this little boy igent stuff that is usually dished up.
 
I am not sure where else to put this but I learned recently my cutter at Poole, Alex Cooke has been diagnosed with ALS. Gutted to hear.
 
Just arrived suit in Fox Mr. Slowboy. I plan on mostly just using the jacket, but every now and again will break out the full monty.

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Oh heck, my shirt maker just informed me that Monti has closed down. They are the Italian company that made the worldclass shirt fabrics. Had many of my shirts are made from their unique fabrics, so now l am screwed.
 
Oh heck, my shirt maker just informed me that Monti has closed down. They are the Italian company that made the worldclass shirt fabrics. Had many of my shirts are made from their unique fabrics, so now l am screwed.
Tessitura Monti? I picked up some dirt cheap Chinese shirts with this fabric earlier this year.
 
Oh heck, my shirt maker just informed me that Monti has closed down. They are the Italian company that made the worldclass shirt fabrics. Had many of my shirts are made from their unique fabrics, so now l am screwed.


Oh shit, first closes Testa- Romentino and now Monti?


But Monti has 2 qualities, the made in Italy top ( one of my fav, some references were same hand as Alumo) and the made in India one that I never handled.

Has the main one closed?

I was client of them.
 
Oh shit, first closes Testa- Romentino and now Monti?


But Monti has 2 qualities, the made in Italy top ( one of my fav, some references were same hand as Alumo) and the made in India one that I never handled.

Has the main one closed?

I was client of them.

Yes, the Italian Monti has closed and was sold.
 
What a ruin. But any bought the brand and continues or has been sold to pieces?

Not that l know of. All gone. I love their royal oxford collection, just fabulous.

I have just placed an order of four shirts, all of Monti fabrics, l am hoping my shirtmaker has the fabrics out back, otherwise l am going to be completely screwed. He still has some fabrics, but he is running out.

I also love the Alumo cottons (amazing), and l love the old Acorn 3 ply cottons they used to have (stuff of legend). They all serve different purposes, all unique in their own right. Losing Monti is a bit of a blow.
 
Talking about tailors....

I ordered my trousers and sportscoat last year and still haven't heard from my tailor. Oh well, as long as he does a great job l am happy to wait.
 
Not that l know of. All gone. I love their royal oxford collection, just fabulous.

I have just placed an order of four shirts, all of Monti fabrics, l am hoping my shirtmaker has the fabrics out back, otherwise l am going to be completely screwed. He still has some fabrics, but he is running out.

I also love the Alumo cottons (amazing), and l love the old Acorn 3 ply cottons they used to have (stuff of legend). They all serve different purposes, all unique in their own right. Losing Monti is a bit of a blow.


Happened to me when TESTA/ Romentino closed, Romentino was the best and soft after RIVA and the most exclusive. Monti was among my favourites as well.

Maybe some idiot heritor wanted some fresh cash for boats and bitches instead of holding the fabric and its glory.
 
Three of my fabrics are from Monti, but the other white royal oxford is all sold out and gone forever, so my maker will use something from Alumo instead.

Ordered some fun patterns this time.
- red/white gingham check (Monti)
- the red/navy stripe (Monti)
- navy royal oxford (Monti)
- white (Alumo)
Gingham check shirt - red.png Charles nakhle - 3 stripe shirt.jpg

I think that second fabric might be the same shirt material my maker made for me back in the day 15 years ago.
bespoke shirt.JPG
 
I never micromanage my shirtmaker, l give him lots of room for his discretion and leave many of the details up to him. He always makes good decisions, and seeing the end result is always a surprise.; l never know exactly what l am going to get. For my new order three of the casual summer shirts will have the collar and cuff styles decided by Charles. He has excellent judgement, and my shirt fit is exactly how l like it, ie, a perfect balance between fit and comfort.

The shirts in the shops are so limited, and the fits are pure garbage. Same goes with trousers and coats, all garbage fits.

Sartodi Napoli Sartodi Napoli
I want to get some tattersall shirts to complete my middle aged country-man look with cardigan, tie, tweed trousers and brogues, but why are these patterns so much more expensive than the other patterns, do you know anything about this? Maybe my maker doesn't carry them in stock and needs to special order the material, hence the extra cost. Any idea?
 
I never micromanage my shirtmaker, l give him lots of room for his discretion and leave many of the details up to him. He always makes good decisions, and seeing the end result is always a surprise.; l never know exactly what l am going to get. For my new order three of the casual summer shirts will have the collar and cuff styles decided by Charles. He has excellent judgement, and my shirt fit is exactly how l like it, ie, a perfect balance between fit and comfort.

The shirts in the shops are so limited, and the fits are pure garbage. Same goes with trousers and coats, all garbage fits.

Sartodi Napoli Sartodi Napoli
I want to get some tattersall shirts to complete my middle aged country-man look with cardigan, tie, tweed trousers and brogues, but why are these patterns so much more expensive than the other patterns, do you know anything about this? Maybe my maker doesn't carry them in stock and needs to special order the material, hence the extra cost. Any idea?


I got plenty of stock from Riva, Grandi, Testa, Romentino, some Monti etc. but all is in classic politician/office, business, no tattershal, etc.

drop me a pm or any interested. Almost all the remaining where personal picks up for myself but covid ruined my plans to do trunkshows.
 

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