Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

Grand Potentate said:
It’s surprisingly hard to find a gif of a DJ doing a set while wearing a suit.
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Jzl4RCXoWKMz.gif
 
I've never had a good experience with a tailor, including some of the big names in NY. That said, I've never tried them in Europe.
 
Sartodi Napoli said:
I got plenty of stock from Riva, Grandi, Testa, Romentino, some Monti etc. but all is in classic politician/office, business, no tattershal, etc.

drop me a pm or any interested. Almost all the remaining where personal picks up for myself but covid ruined my plans to do trunkshows.
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Thankyou for your kind offer, but l am all set with classic business/politician shirting with Alumo and Acorn. Will be doing more bengal stripes, white and light blues next year, along with tattersalls of course.
 
Grand Potentate said:
www.nytimes.com

We Tested Three Online Custom Tailors, and the Results Were Sew Disappointing

Online custom tailors claim they can provide a bespoke fit at off-the-rack prices. We ordered shirts from three brands, and it wasn’t that seamless.
www.nytimes.com www.nytimes.com

interesting read on their bad experiences with Proper Cloth, MT Tailer, and Indochino.
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I’ve always found that if you opt to provide detailed measurements, Proper cloth will make the shirt to those specs. It’s a shame the writer opted for the ‘let us size you’ tech bs. It would be more interesting hearing how even providing your own measurements is fraught with problems - either men don’t know their own measurements or how their shirts should fit, or how dialing numbers into an algorithm doesn’t provide the benefit of a skilled tailor eyeballing the overall symmetry of a shirt on the customer.
 
The Shooman said:
Can you go more into detail about it: who did you see and why weren't you satisfied?
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Probably a decade ago I used Ercole. Suit just didn't fit that nicely. Very generic and couldn't see much difference between it and another RTW suit other than the fabric which was nice.

Then I used Logsdail maybe half a decade ago. Huge armholes although the jacket looked solid. Seriously, they were huge. Maybe he works more with big, old, overweight guys. But they were way too big for me. The lapels were probably slightly too high. And they used buttons I thought to be too small. I asked if they could be changed to be slightly larger and he said it would be too much work.
 
ballmouse said:
Probably a decade ago I used Ercole. Suit just didn't fit that nicely. Very generic and couldn't see much difference between it and another RTW suit other than the fabric which was nice.

Then I used Logsdail maybe half a decade ago. Huge armholes although the jacket looked solid. Seriously, they were huge. Maybe he works more with big, old, overweight guys. But they were way too big for me. The lapels were probably slightly too high. And they used buttons I thought to be too small. I asked if they could be changed to be slightly larger and he said it would be too much work.
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I remember New York Ranger / Islander discovered Ercole in his neighborhood and started getting a load of stuff from there. Since he never had an original thought in his head he just tried to copy Vox’s three-roll jackets but of course they looked liked a potato sack on him and they never corrected his drop shoulder.

Last I heard of him on SF he made a post that he’d sold off all his bespoke and was contemplating getting a black Zara suit, and was now wearing stone island “hooligan” gear and flying to the UK to watch Man City (at least while they’re winning till he switches to another team when their time at the top has cycled off).

Someone on here once claimed he had stated he would rather spend money on bespoke suits than take his family on vacation. How did that work out?
 
Great White Snark said:
I remember New York Ranger / Islander discovered Ercole in his neighborhood and started getting a load of stuff from there. Since he never had an original thought in his head he just tried to copy Vox’s three-roll jackets but of course they looked liked a potato sack on him and they never corrected his drop shoulder.

Last I heard of him on SF he made a post that he’d sold off all his bespoke and was contemplating getting a black Zara suit, and was now wearing stone island “hooligan” gear and flying to the UK to watch Man City (at least while they’re winning till he switches to another team when their time at the top has cycled off).

Someone on here once claimed he had stated he would rather spend money on bespoke suits than take his family on vacation. How did that work out?
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I think there are a lot of igents that don't really know why they are doing bespoke. I think many do it for the wrong reasons, ie, they follow trends, do it for boasting rights and belonging to a certain popular group etc. Bespoke is not about status or making a statement, but it is all about dressing the way you want.
 
Doggie, is that a kind of gingham? I once saw a bloke in a dark blue with lighter blue small checks like gingham in a cotton suit. Looked very nice I must say, from a distance it kinda resolved to a darkish all blue.
 
fxh said:
Please report on sock status. TIA
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fxh said:
Doggie, is that a kind of gingham? I once saw a bloke in a dark blue with lighter blue small checks like gingham in a cotton suit. Looked very nice I must say, from a distance it kinda resolved to a darkish all blue.
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Much to your relief, I am pleased to inform you socks were worn.

It's a houndstooth from H&S, I have the swatch at my office, I need to check the number on it.
 
One of the rare days where l got to spend a couple of hours with my tailor chatting. We have fascinating talks.

Ordered an extra 2 pairs of W Bill 21oz cavalry twill trousers in navy and bone, they are high waisted trousers to my navel with 10 inch bottoms. Nearly 2K for a pair these days, but that's life, nothing can be done about that. Been waiting for some of my orders for almost 18 months so far. Some of his big clients have waited over 3 years. I will get my clothes in about 4 months hopefully.
 
The Shooman said:
One of the rare days where l got to spend a couple of hours with my tailor chatting. We have fascinating talks.

Ordered an extra 2 pairs of W Bill 21oz cavalry twill trousers in navy and bone, they are high waisted trousers to my navel with 10 inch bottoms. Nearly 2K for a pair these days, but that's life, nothing can be done about that. Been waiting for some of my orders for almost 18 months so far. Some of his big clients have waited over 3 years. I will get my clothes in about 4 months hopefully.
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2k a pair!
Cheaper to come to London and have them cut here!
 
The Shooman said:
One of the rare days where l got to spend a couple of hours with my tailor chatting. We have fascinating talks.

Ordered an extra 2 pairs of W Bill 21oz cavalry twill trousers in navy and bone, they are high waisted trousers to my navel with 10 inch bottoms. Nearly 2K for a pair these days, but that's life, nothing can be done about that. Been waiting for some of my orders for almost 18 months so far. Some of his big clients have waited over 3 years. I will get my clothes in about 4 months hopefully.
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$2k and a two year wait for some heavy cav twill trousers?
 
The Shooman said:
One of the rare days where l got to spend a couple of hours with my tailor chatting. We have fascinating talks.

Ordered an extra 2 pairs of W Bill 21oz cavalry twill trousers in navy and bone, they are high waisted trousers to my navel with 10 inch bottoms. Nearly 2K for a pair these days, but that's life, nothing can be done about that. Been waiting for some of my orders for almost 18 months so far. Some of his big clients have waited over 3 years. I will get my clothes in about 4 months hopefully.
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You will enjoy them after the wait, Shooey.

Any favourite shoos and sox on mind to purr them with?
 
The Shooman said:
My tailor fixed some Ciffoneli suits, and he doesn't have a favourable impression of the way the suits are made. To me and him, a lot of things are just internet hype.
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One of the most histrionic and tackys around, he spends more time taking pics of himself than learning to tailoring. So what could you expect, Attolini quality then?

I think he wants to imitate another tacky: Ralph Lauren.
 
Bookmarking some of these fabrics for my next commissions.

This will be great for a suit, a future order. Imagine a winter suit in this fabric with a variety of cashmere turtlenecks.
shop.huddersfieldtextiles.com

H7434 - LIGHT BROWN HERRINGBONE WITH OVERCHECKS (500 grams / 17 Oz) - Huddersfield Textiles

• Colour - GREEN WITH DARK GREEN & RED OVERCHECKS • Weight - 500gms / 17oz • Bunch - English Country Tweeds & Twills (formally Magdale) • Composition - All Wool 100% AUTHENTIC ENGLISH TWEED TWILL FABRIC MADE IN ENGLAND
shop.huddersfieldtextiles.com shop.huddersfieldtextiles.com

Stunning 12 oz Holland and Sherry cream fabric for Spring wool trousers. Been trying to source something like this for ages. Much nicer than Dugdale's 15 oz woolen.
apparel.hollandandsherry.com

Holland & Sherry

The dress connoisseur with a sense of occasion need look no further than Holland & Sherry's Black Tie collection offering countless solutions to any formal dress requirement.
apparel.hollandandsherry.com
 
I don't know who the heck this tailor is, but gee Kirby hit the nail on the head with this guy. Look at this great second fitting. Occasionally you see these great unknown tailors who do better work than the big names. You can just see that this bloke knows what he is doing.

Paolo Martorano Bespoke.jpg
 
More examples of Paolo Martorano bespoke. Absolutely top tier work.




One thing I do notice is that he doesn't always get the shoulders as smooth as they could be, but he is close to being a dream tailor, don't you think? From the phgotos l have seen, one of the few great tailors.




Other good examples of perfection

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^
He is a regular around these parts, doing a ‘trunk show’ every quarter at the Four Seasons. I believe he is also a fan of antiquated straw hats.
 
Shoulders are more bent on those jackets than a shemale d*ck in the butt of most other unforum butt. lol

it looks as a wallmart sale jacketm badspoke as hell.
 
Went to see my tailor this morning for my trouser fitting with a Lessor 12 oz worsted high waisted trouser with 10 inch bottoms. I instructed him to make stunning works of art, and when l did my first fitting l was stunned; the drape is incredible, and really clean cut, and could be my best trousers ever, wow. Also ordered a pair of cream trousers in a 12 oz Holland & Sherry fabric from the black tie book.

We had a good talk about Cifonelli too. He is not a fan of French tailors, he has had to fix numerous bespokes by the `so called' top makers. He told me C cuts are so primitive; none of the coats close properly (they swing open when unbuttoned) and the inside of the lapels curve which cause numerous problems. Good trousers though. Some examples:

Sartodi Napoli Sartodi Napoli you might find this interesting.

Inside of lapels curve and collar comes off neck. If the coat was unbuttoned it would probably swing open leaving a decent gap.


Here is Hugo's Cifonelli, notice how it pulls off the side of the neck,a big no no in tailoring. Would have a rounded inside of coat too. My tailor said Cifonelli does very bad cuts and it causes lots of fit problems.
Collar gap - Cifonelli.jpg


That curved inside of coat again. Causes numerous fit problems when people move around.


Cifonelli coat swings open due to poor cut.


Coat doesn't close properly here either




Another coat that doesn't close properly. That would drive me nuts if l had to wear a coat like that, it is like rtw.




This is not to pick on any of these guys, it is just to point things out and say that igent hype is simply that, HYPE. I won't say what he said about Prince Charles' suits and some other famous tailor, at least not yet. It is all very interesting, and when he points things out l can start to see it. It just tells me that there are very few really great tailors.....tailors do the best they can, and it is good to see what they can do and can't do.
 
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Sartodi Napoli said:
How many years am I expossing those tackys and untailors?
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It's interesting how Hugo talks up numerous tailors (tackies) who my tailor says aren't too good, and Kirby has the habit of talking up tailors who make with collar gaps, and some who are considered the best ever are not so good. Lets not focus on that though, but occasionally l might say a thing or two. ;)
 
The Shooman said:
It's interesting how Hugo talks up numerous tailors (tackies) who my tailor says aren't too good, and Kirby has the habit of talking up tailors who make with collar gaps, and some who are considered the best ever are not so good. Lets not focus on that though, but occasionally l might say a thing or two. ;)
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Mates,

How many times do have expossed that those blogs are a business, confirmed by Italian tailors friends of mine who were contacted by any or all of those degenerates.

Those tackys call the victim, says that for +-3000 euros, half a million newbies will see a review of him and with a simply investment as it, what a suit cost, he will have tons of new clients. Until here everything is even good.

The bad part is that review is just fake advertising as saying every month " this is best tailor around", or things as the worst ever unshirt "Burgos Madrid" was even better as a Kiton one, being Kiton the best shirt money can buy, and we all know this.

Could you imagine a car magazine saying Kia beats Maserati? No way because 100% of readers will LOL and won´t ever buy it again.

On tailoring, as 99,9% of people can´t id crap from good, they lives out of it.

As we all know, but 99% of People, Crapmani is the best ever. ( 20 euros euros mediocre shirts with 3 euros/meter fabrics with a tag of 350 euros and so on with the rest)
 
Thanks for making that post, so it is really true then? Makes a lot of sense. I understand some of those French tailors were just blokes struggling to make a living, and on the forums they were rarely spoken about, then one day word got out that these French tailors were all considered the best in the world. When l look back l can see how these rumors start out of nothing, and l should know because l have been reading the forums and blogs for 21 years. My tailor tells me these bloggers don't have a clue what they are talking about, and numerous industry people say the same. So the big bloggers are all getting paid eh?
 
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The Shooman said:
Thanks for making that post, so it is really true then? Makes a lot of sense. I understand some of those French tailors were just blokes struggling to make a living, and on the forums they were rarely spoken about, then one day word got out that these French tailors were all considered the best in the world. When l look back l can see how these rumors start out of nothing, and l should know because l have been reading the forums and blogs for 21 years. My tailor tells me these bloggers don't have a clue what they are talking about, and numerous industry people say the same. So the big bloggers are all getting paid eh?
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I hate most of bloggers because 1 they got any clue, 2 of course are paid, per example that idiot Italian also asked several grands, this was confirmed by several of the dutch members here... Fabio tackynassio.

All those idiots, tackys and profanators of the good taste and classic manners are just a bunch of oportunists who make cash out of tailors who get into that game. I know a lot of dignous ones used to manage with camorristi extortion that sent those to shit when those contacted them asking several grands for featuring in one episode.

Even the Spanish tacky blogger one is bribed to promote Tanga from Madrid but the worst of all is the one who started this business, the English asshole.
 
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