Adventures in Bespoke Tailoring

[The Shooman]

Lets post a few bespoke collar gaps. I've been told by a tailor who has taken apart the Savile Row bespokes that the cuts and fits are often terrible.

Huntsman bespoke. Collar bulges out at the side and off the beck of the neck with little movement. A collar made to fit everyone but made to fit no-one.


Lets look at King Charles' coats. A tailor and myself pulled up his pics and he said many of his suits are absolutely terrible. Why? He said to look at those "rounded collars", they are cut using techniques from old cutting books, and they are designed to fit no-one. Those collars use a basic block pattern and are not molded and fitted....it is like a 2D cut is just stitched onto the suit instead of made and molded into 3D.

Here is a classic rounded collar where Charles' suits can move around. See how it comes off the back of the neck and moves off at the sides with not much movement?

Another rounded collar of King Charles'. Pulls off the sides and at the back. A terrible cut and fit, no snug molded collar. A basic block cut collar made to fit 1/10 people.

That same rounded style collar again. This is why some tailors don't like the work of many Savile Row tailors, they don't like the fits many of them do.

Another classic rounded collar which makes the suit look messy and pull off the side of neck and at the back. Just like a poorly fitted rtw collar, which is what it is.

Another rounded collar. See how there is no shape to it? Just a 2D collar stitched onto the suit with no shaping done.

This is just my understanding of what a tailor showed me. He has pulled numerous SR suits apart and many have the same type of problems.

The big test of a suits cut
When you pull your arms straight out, does your coat pull off the neck? or does it push into the neck? If a suit is cut right the collar should push into the neck, mine do.

See.....people don't talk about these things online. It is all about hype and talking up famous names. But to me it is about looking at the good and bad of a suit. You don't get this honest talk anywhere else, it is all BS.

 

[The Shooman]

Here is the famous tailor everyone in Australia talks about on the forums as being a legend, yet his fits are like many of the SR tailors, his collars are rounded and pull off the sides of the neck and off the back. See what l am saying? Much of the talk on the forums is just BS.

Maimone Charles Tailoring (est 1972)

I like doing things with my hands, I like to help people and I like to do things that make people feel good with themselves.

talesofbrickandmortar.com

 

[theinvisiblehand]

Follow up from the Italian tailor thread. I decided to get a double breasted flannel suit in light grey from Sartoria Gallo in Rome. This is the fabric and liner.

 

[belinmad]

Follow up from the Italian tailor thread. I decided to get a double breasted flannel suit in light grey from Sartoria Gallo in Rome. This is the fabric and liner.
View attachment 47934

Nice one - good choice for the cold weather!

 

[Grand Potentate]

Follow up from the Italian tailor thread. I decided to get a double breasted flannel suit in light grey from Sartoria Gallo in Rome. This is the fabric and liner.
View attachment 47934

that's a sharp combo

 

[theinvisiblehand]

Nice one - good choice for the cold weather!

Given the turn around time it made sense to get something done for winter!

that's a sharp combo

Thanks! I'll post a fuller review once I've done the first fitting with them.

 

[theinvisiblehand]

I visited Naples today. I only had the day so I crammed three appointments (and a fitting) in 7 hours.

The experience was great. Everyone I met today was lovely and welcoming. Despite my Italian been very modest, everyone made me feel incredibly welcome. belinmad , thank you for the good words.

I started the day at Sartoria Panico. Signore Panico was there and we had a very nice chat with his daughter and google translate helping out. He was very warm and charming, which made the whole thing very pleasant. He even told me I looked like a gentleman. That made my month. I wanted to make a navy or brown sb suit in his house style so we discussed that. We looked at fabric for a while and he got really excited with this two-tone blue. He really wanted to work with it so I decided to go for it.

Next was Marco Cerrato. His shop is a nice 15 minutes walk from Panico. It took me a while to figure out the actual location as its at the back of a small side street, at the top of a few stairs. Marco has this easy smile that takes you in right away. We looked at a lot of fabric and I ended up getting two pairs from him. He knew I only had a day in Naples and he was generous enough to offer to get a fitting ready before I took the train. Mostly he will work on the leg some and make the waist higher.
The picture below is it. His entire family was in the atelier when I came back. It was a great experience.

I have no pictures of my last appointment but I went to see Golia camiceria. I almost got run over 5 times on the way from Marco's shop to Golia (and Golia is the next street over). I thought drivers in Rome were crazy. Yeah, Naples is something else. In any case, we agreed to four shirts. This conversation was a bit more difficult as no one in the shop really spoke english but we worked it out. There was an older tailor there who spoke a bit of french and thought I was very nice so he promised to make me a tie for my next fitting. Nice man.

I'm going back in two weeks for more fittings. I'll keep updating this if there's interest.

 

[belinmad]

I visited Naples today. I only had the day so I crammed three appointments (and a fitting) in 7 hours.

The experience was great. Everyone I met today was lovely and welcoming. Despite my Italian been very modest, everyone made me feel incredibly welcome. belinmad , thank you for the good words.

I started the day at Sartoria Panico. Signore Panico was there and we had a very nice chat with his daughter and google translate helping out. He was very warm and charming, which made the whole thing very pleasant. He even told me I looked like a gentleman. That made my month. I wanted to make a navy or brown sb suit in his house style so we discussed that. We looked at fabric for a while and he got really excited with this two-tone blue. He really wanted to work with it so I decided to go for it.
View attachment 47945

Next was Marco Cerrato. His shop is a nice 15 minutes walk from Panico. It took me a while to figure out the actual location as its at the back of a small side street, at the top of a few stairs. Marco has this easy smile that takes you in right away. We looked at a lot of fabric and I ended up getting two pairs from him. He knew I only had a day in Naples and he was generous enough to offer to get a fitting ready before I took the train. Mostly he will work on the leg some and make the waist higher.
The picture below is it. His entire family was in the atelier when I came back. It was a great experience.

View attachment 47946


I have no pictures of my last appointment but I went to see Golia camiceria. I almost got run over 5 times on the way from Marco's shop to Golia (and Golia is the next street over). I thought drivers in Rome were crazy. Yeah, Naples is something else. In any case, we agreed to four shirts. This conversation was a bit more difficult as no one in the shop really spoke english but we worked it out. There was an older tailor there who spoke a bit of french and thought I was very nice so he promised to make me a tie for my next fitting. Nice man.

I'm going back in two weeks for more fittings. I'll keep updating this if there's interest.

Very productive day! I am glad everything worked as expected. You’ve met a group of wonderful people!

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

I visited Naples today. I only had the day so I crammed three appointments (and a fitting) in 7 hours.

The experience was great. Everyone I met today was lovely and welcoming. Despite my Italian been very modest, everyone made me feel incredibly welcome. belinmad , thank you for the good words.

I started the day at Sartoria Panico. Signore Panico was there and we had a very nice chat with his daughter and google translate helping out. He was very warm and charming, which made the whole thing very pleasant. He even told me I looked like a gentleman. That made my month. I wanted to make a navy or brown sb suit in his house style so we discussed that. We looked at fabric for a while and he got really excited with this two-tone blue. He really wanted to work with it so I decided to go for it.
View attachment 47945

Next was Marco Cerrato. His shop is a nice 15 minutes walk from Panico. It took me a while to figure out the actual location as its at the back of a small side street, at the top of a few stairs. Marco has this easy smile that takes you in right away. We looked at a lot of fabric and I ended up getting two pairs from him. He knew I only had a day in Naples and he was generous enough to offer to get a fitting ready before I took the train. Mostly he will work on the leg some and make the waist higher.
The picture below is it. His entire family was in the atelier when I came back. It was a great experience.

View attachment 47946


I have no pictures of my last appointment but I went to see Golia camiceria. I almost got run over 5 times on the way from Marco's shop to Golia (and Golia is the next street over). I thought drivers in Rome were crazy. Yeah, Naples is something else. In any case, we agreed to four shirts. This conversation was a bit more difficult as no one in the shop really spoke english but we worked it out. There was an older tailor there who spoke a bit of french and thought I was very nice so he promised to make me a tie for my next fitting. Nice man.

I'm going back in two weeks for more fittings. I'll keep updating this if there's interest.

Lots of useful info. Great.

 

[Grand Potentate]

I visited Naples today. I only had the day so I crammed three appointments (and a fitting) in 7 hours.

The experience was great. Everyone I met today was lovely and welcoming. Despite my Italian been very modest, everyone made me feel incredibly welcome. belinmad , thank you for the good words.

I started the day at Sartoria Panico. Signore Panico was there and we had a very nice chat with his daughter and google translate helping out. He was very warm and charming, which made the whole thing very pleasant. He even told me I looked like a gentleman. That made my month. I wanted to make a navy or brown sb suit in his house style so we discussed that. We looked at fabric for a while and he got really excited with this two-tone blue. He really wanted to work with it so I decided to go for it.
View attachment 47945

Next was Marco Cerrato. His shop is a nice 15 minutes walk from Panico. It took me a while to figure out the actual location as its at the back of a small side street, at the top of a few stairs. Marco has this easy smile that takes you in right away. We looked at a lot of fabric and I ended up getting two pairs from him. He knew I only had a day in Naples and he was generous enough to offer to get a fitting ready before I took the train. Mostly he will work on the leg some and make the waist higher.
The picture below is it. His entire family was in the atelier when I came back. It was a great experience.

View attachment 47946


I have no pictures of my last appointment but I went to see Golia camiceria. I almost got run over 5 times on the way from Marco's shop to Golia (and Golia is the next street over). I thought drivers in Rome were crazy. Yeah, Naples is something else. In any case, we agreed to four shirts. This conversation was a bit more difficult as no one in the shop really spoke english but we worked it out. There was an older tailor there who spoke a bit of french and thought I was very nice so he promised to make me a tie for my next fitting. Nice man.

I'm going back in two weeks for more fittings. I'll keep updating this if there's interest.

Excellent write up. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing the finished products.

 

[doghouse]

Great stuff, look forward to the next report theinvisiblehand

 

[theinvisiblehand]

Part 2, and its a long one. I'll split it over two posts because I'm unsure about the character length here.

Rome

Sartoria Gallo
This is fresh from this morning. I had my first fitting from Gallo. Luigi Gallo, the father, is mostly retired at this point and almost everything goes through his son Marco. He's lovely and friendly and has very good English. He's always happy to chat about his family history and tailoring in general. It shows how happy he is to be able to discuss details and finer points with enthusiasts.

I ordered a db suit in light grey flannel and asked for it to follow mostly their house style (3 buttons on the sleeve for example). The fabric is incredible. It feels great on the skin and has a very nice touch. I forgot to get a picture of it on me but you can see the jacket on this picture. We decided to make the lapel a bit bigger and a bit rounder at the bottom to fit my shape better. I'm a big ragazzo.

I've had two fittings in Rome so far (the other is below) and one thing I noticed is how high Italian tailors make armholes. It's anecdotal, but both suits had armholes almost cutting into my armpit. It's going to be rectified but it's not something I had experience before with tailors outside of Rome and Naples.

Mimmo Luzzi
This one wasn't planned. I was talking with Giuseppe who owns Camiceria Jaja (just below) and I was commenting on a jacket he had. The handwork on it was top notch and I casually asked him who had made it for him. That's when he introduced me to Mister Luzzi who is by now mostly retired. He is, however, the son of whom taught Marco Gallo's how to cut (beside his own father). From what I gather, Luzzia senior thought many tailors in the Rome region before passing away.

As I said I didn't plan on getting another suit done in Rome but it was difficult not to order one from Mimmo after spending some time with him. My Italian is mediocre and his English is functional so we were able to communicate fairly well. He works out of his old atelier north of Rome and when you walk in it feels as if you're walking into his house. It's very cozy.

For this one I opted for a one inch pinstripe in light grey. I don't really have anything fit for the Roman summer so this is going to be it. Lightweight and with no lining. I'll still melt, but I'll melt in a nice pinstripe suit. As I mentioned earlier, the main issue here was the high armhole. That and the fact he surprised me with peak lapel. I think the next iteration will have notch lapel. Either way I'm fine with it.

Camiceria JAJA
I found this place looking for Roman recommendation (I won't name the messageboard, you know it) in old posts and JAJA got mentioned a few times. He's located near the Spagna metro station (where most of the big name shops are located like Gucci, Louis Vutton, St-Laurent etc.) which likely makes him a bit more expensive than other options in Naples like Golia. Giuseppe who bought the place about 10 years ago is a charm to work with. Very knowledgeable and happy to share. I spent about 40 minutes with him this afternoon while he was cutting a shirt and he wasn't shy to explain his process. He told me he has the capacity to produce about two shirts a day given almost everything on it is hand made minus the side seam and the shoulder seam if I recall correctly.

He does very nice details. The monogram looks like calligraphy. No jokes. And on the second to last button he uses red, green, and white thread to make a little Italian flag. It's a nice touch. See below.

I had two fitting and a half for the test shirt. I say and a half because when I tried the final product it was still a bit too big and he asked me to stop by the next day to give him time to fix it. I don't have a picture of me wearing it but here's what I took. Let me know if you'd like to see more of it.

His minimum order was three shirts.

Naples is next.

 

[Thruth]

Part 2, and its a long one. I'll split it over two posts because I'm unsure about the character length here.

Rome

Sartoria Gallo
This is fresh from this morning. I had my first fitting from Gallo. Luigi Gallo, the father, is mostly retired at this point and almost everything goes through his son Marco. He's lovely and friendly and has very good English. He's always happy to chat about his family history and tailoring in general. It shows how happy he is to be able to discuss details and finer points with enthusiasts.

I ordered a db suit in light grey flannel and asked for it to follow mostly their house style (3 buttons on the sleeve for example). The fabric is incredible. It feels great on the skin and has a very nice touch. I forgot to get a picture of it on me but you can see the jacket on this picture. We decided to make the lapel a bit bigger and a bit rounder at the bottom to fit my shape better. I'm a big ragazzo.

I've had two fittings in Rome so far (the other is below) and one thing I noticed is how high Italian tailors make armholes. It's anecdotal, but both suits had armholes almost cutting into my armpit. It's going to be rectified but it's not something I had experience before with tailors outside of Rome and Naples.

View attachment 48050

Mimmo Luzzi
This one wasn't planned. I was talking with Giuseppe who owns Camiceria Jaja (just below) and I was commenting on a jacket he had. The handwork on it was top notch and I casually asked him who had made it for him. That's when he introduced me to Mister Luzzi who is by now mostly retired. He is, however, the son of whom taught Marco Gallo's how to cut (beside his own father). From what I gather, Luzzia senior thought many tailors in the Rome region before passing away.

As I said I didn't plan on getting another suit done in Rome but it was difficult not to order one from Mimmo after spending some time with him. My Italian is mediocre and his English is functional so we were able to communicate fairly well. He works out of his old atelier north of Rome and when you walk in it feels as if you're walking into his house. It's very cozy.

For this one I opted for a one inch pinstripe in light grey. I don't really have anything fit for the Roman summer so this is going to be it. Lightweight and with no lining. I'll still melt, but I'll melt in a nice pinstripe suit. As I mentioned earlier, the main issue here was the high armhole. That and the fact he surprised me with peak lapel. I think the next iteration will have notch lapel. Either way I'm fine with it.

View attachment 48053

Camiceria JAJA
I found this place looking for Roman recommendation (I won't name the messageboard, you know it) in old posts and JAJA got mentioned a few times. He's located near the Spagna metro station (where most of the big name shops are located like Gucci, Louis Vutton, St-Laurent etc.) which likely makes him a bit more expensive than other options in Naples like Golia. Giuseppe who bought the place about 10 years ago is a charm to work with. Very knowledgeable and happy to share. I spent about 40 minutes with him this afternoon while he was cutting a shirt and he wasn't shy to explain his process. He told me he has the capacity to produce about two shirts a day given almost everything on it is hand made minus the side seam and the shoulder seam if I recall correctly.

He does very nice details. The monogram looks like calligraphy. No jokes. And on the second to last button he uses red, green, and white thread to make a little Italian flag. It's a nice touch. See below.

I had two fitting and a half for the test shirt. I say and a half because when I tried the final product it was still a bit too big and he asked me to stop by the next day to give him time to fix it. I don't have a picture of me wearing it but here's what I took. Let me know if you'd like to see more of it.

His minimum order was three shirts.

View attachment 48054

View attachment 48055

Naples is next.

keep us updated. looks great so far.

 

[theinvisiblehand]

Naples

I love Naples. The city is in a state of absolute chaos at all times but it just works. I love walking in the Spanish Steps or by the sea. The people are top notch and everyone is beautiful. The food is incredible (except the pizza. It's a soup in a bread bowl). I wish I could spend more time there. I know a lot of folks like the North better, including Firenze and Milano, but for me its all about the south.

Sartoria Panico
I was looking forward to this one. I've been wanting a suit from Antonio Panico for ten years now so you can imagine how excited I was. He was as charming as always and his daughter Paola a great help. I've put the only picture I have from the visit below. There was a few things to adjust. The trousers were too large for me and the shoulders on the jacket a bit too snug. Otherwise I'm really happy with the size of the lapel and how the fabric looks. Details wise, I went with a sb suit with 3 rolls 2 buttons. The trousers have one pleat and a 4.5cm cuff. The rest I pretty much left in Panico's hands. I can't wait to see the final product. There will be at least another fitting on this.

Now I need to restrain myself but once we were done with the fitting they gave me a tour of the atelier. They have an entire shelve of vintage fabric and I found this incredible green herringbone tweed. Mister Panico believes he has enough to make a coat for me. He put it aside while I think. The photo doesn't really do it justice. It's a lot more green if it makes sense. It's beautiful.

Marco Cerrato
Second fitting here, and it's coming along great. It's always nice to walk in Marco's atelier. It's really a family business. When I arrived his father was preparing fabric for cutting and his brother was pressing a pair of trousers ready to go. It's a great vibe. Plus Marco is funny as hell.

I really like how Marco's double pleated pants look. They are not as roomy as other trousers I had in similar style. The front looks incredibly clean. I asked him how he achieved that and it's very clever. He has a way to make it all fit together that just works. I asked him how much work there is in a pair of trousers and he said about 12 hours all told. There's about 4-5 hours of hand work alone. The belt seam, the resistance stitches, the finishing stitching on the outseam and so on. I'll let you judge.

I think we decided to go with a 4cm cuff. No belt loop and no side cinch. Instead he's going to do a longer waistband with two buttons (and suspenders button inside). One back pocket and I think I choose nice green horn buttons for this one. Or beige. I can't remember.

This is meant as summer trousers for me. It's a mixture of wool, silk, and linen called summer breeze I think.

Golia Camiceria
I love that man. We can barely speak to each other yet he gave me a hug before I left and told me I was very sympatico. The feeling is mutual, Giuseppe. Golia shares the floor with another Raffaelle who I believe owns the store. Nice man as well. We had some Napoli caffe together (jet fuel with some sugar). It felt like I was meeting old friends after a while.

This was the first fitting and I had a chance to snap a picture of the fabric I chose. One thing I'm a bit puzzled about is they told me the shirts would be ready next time I return to Naples so no second fitting. I'm trusting the process. I saw a few example of his work up close and for the price you pay, it's insane. Everything is done by hand. No machine. Can't wait to have the final product in my hand.

I remember someone mentioning that Golia only does fused collars. That's not true. Mine will be unfused. So there's that.

I hope this was informative. You you'd like more details let me know.

 

[theinvisiblehand]

keep us updated. looks great so far.

I'm glad to see there's interest. I was feeling like I was monopolizing the thread

 

[belinmad]

View attachment 48058

Glad to see the old man is doing well!

 

[theinvisiblehand]

Glad to see the old man is doing well!

He has a harder time moving around but otherwise he seems to be doing well.

 

[The Shooman]

Alan Bee has fantastic trousers (mine are cut the same way...clean and full, and high waisted to the navel), but l am not liking many of his coats. If he kept it really classic he'd look so much better imo. Not liking the wide lapels and slanted pockets here.



What do others think?

 

[belinmad]

Alan Bee has fantastic trousers (mine are cut the same way...clean and full, and high waisted to the navel), but l am not liking many of his coats. If he kept it really classic he'd look so much better imo. Not liking the wide lapels and slanted pockets here.



What do others think?

The fit on that suit is terrible. Who tf is he and/or the tailor?

 

[The Shooman]

One thing l will say.....

It is good to have reached a point in my life where my clothes are perfectly comfortable. It takes time to work out a balance of fit and comfort while having everything with a really clean look. My trousers feel like pajama pants: they are a wider cut and made to the navel. My shirts have a wider sleeve and are supremely comfortable. My coats also have a wider sleeve. My clothing makes me really happy. I know what l like.

 

[The Shooman]

The fit on that suit is terrible. Who tf is he and/or the tailor?

What is wrong with it?

 

[Dropbear]

Just going off the thumbnail pic:

That lapel is too wide, accentuating by the low gorge.

The baggy pajama pants look very ‘one size for all’. I’m not against a higher, fuller cut - but the balance is off in this case.

 

[belinmad]

What is wrong with it?

you're kidding, right?

Surely a Big Daddy like you can tell the jacket is not "full and comfortable" but rather too big and ridiculously boxy - it has no shape for a man who clearly has one - it's a rectangle when it could be two opposing triangles.

In terms of the cut, the armholes are too wide and low - see weird bag forming below the armpits which tells you that the back is not proportionate to the man's figure either - and the shoulders are too wide and out of proportion as well.

Stylistically, the pockets are terrible, the sleeves are so wide that you have deformations everywhere, and the jacket is just too long for him.

And I am too a big fan of full trousers, but I think this one is one bridge too far...

 

[doghouse]

Part 2, and its a long one. I'll split it over two posts because I'm unsure about the character length here.

Rome

Sartoria Gallo
This is fresh from this morning. I had my first fitting from Gallo. Luigi Gallo, the father, is mostly retired at this point and almost everything goes through his son Marco. He's lovely and friendly and has very good English. He's always happy to chat about his family history and tailoring in general. It shows how happy he is to be able to discuss details and finer points with enthusiasts.

I ordered a db suit in light grey flannel and asked for it to follow mostly their house style (3 buttons on the sleeve for example). The fabric is incredible. It feels great on the skin and has a very nice touch. I forgot to get a picture of it on me but you can see the jacket on this picture. We decided to make the lapel a bit bigger and a bit rounder at the bottom to fit my shape better. I'm a big ragazzo.

I've had two fittings in Rome so far (the other is below) and one thing I noticed is how high Italian tailors make armholes. It's anecdotal, but both suits had armholes almost cutting into my armpit. It's going to be rectified but it's not something I had experience before with tailors outside of Rome and Naples.

View attachment 48050

Mimmo Luzzi
This one wasn't planned. I was talking with Giuseppe who owns Camiceria Jaja (just below) and I was commenting on a jacket he had. The handwork on it was top notch and I casually asked him who had made it for him. That's when he introduced me to Mister Luzzi who is by now mostly retired. He is, however, the son of whom taught Marco Gallo's how to cut (beside his own father). From what I gather, Luzzia senior thought many tailors in the Rome region before passing away.

As I said I didn't plan on getting another suit done in Rome but it was difficult not to order one from Mimmo after spending some time with him. My Italian is mediocre and his English is functional so we were able to communicate fairly well. He works out of his old atelier north of Rome and when you walk in it feels as if you're walking into his house. It's very cozy.

For this one I opted for a one inch pinstripe in light grey. I don't really have anything fit for the Roman summer so this is going to be it. Lightweight and with no lining. I'll still melt, but I'll melt in a nice pinstripe suit. As I mentioned earlier, the main issue here was the high armhole. That and the fact he surprised me with peak lapel. I think the next iteration will have notch lapel. Either way I'm fine with it.

View attachment 48053

Camiceria JAJA
I found this place looking for Roman recommendation (I won't name the messageboard, you know it) in old posts and JAJA got mentioned a few times. He's located near the Spagna metro station (where most of the big name shops are located like Gucci, Louis Vutton, St-Laurent etc.) which likely makes him a bit more expensive than other options in Naples like Golia. Giuseppe who bought the place about 10 years ago is a charm to work with. Very knowledgeable and happy to share. I spent about 40 minutes with him this afternoon while he was cutting a shirt and he wasn't shy to explain his process. He told me he has the capacity to produce about two shirts a day given almost everything on it is hand made minus the side seam and the shoulder seam if I recall correctly.

He does very nice details. The monogram looks like calligraphy. No jokes. And on the second to last button he uses red, green, and white thread to make a little Italian flag. It's a nice touch. See below.

I had two fitting and a half for the test shirt. I say and a half because when I tried the final product it was still a bit too big and he asked me to stop by the next day to give him time to fix it. I don't have a picture of me wearing it but here's what I took. Let me know if you'd like to see more of it.

His minimum order was three shirts.

View attachment 48054

View attachment 48055

Naples is next.

Awesome updates! Currently living vicariously through you as I have not had fittings in a hot minute.

I really want to see this pinstripe once finished.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

I'm glad to see there's interest. I was feeling like I was monopolizing the thread

Keep it coming. Great stuff.

 

[Great White Snark]

you're kidding, right?

Surely a Big Daddy like you can tell the jacket is not "full and comfortable" but rather too big and ridiculously boxy - it has no shape for a man who clearly has one - it's a rectangle when it could be two opposing triangles.

In terms of the cut, the armholes are too wide and low - see weird bag forming below the armpits which tells you that the back is not proportionate to the man's figure either - and the shoulders are too wide and out of proportion as well.

Stylistically, the pockets are terrible, the sleeves are so wide that you have deformations everywhere, and the jacket is just too long for him.

And I am too a big fan of full trousers, but I think this one is one bridge too far...

No no no the suit is truly magnificent. It says so right there!

This guy thinks he’s found sartorial nirvana and is so full of himself he thinks he’s above reproach. The fact is as my grandmother used to say the suit fits where it touches. Fuller cut pants are fine but if they don’t fork until below the knee they don’t fit well.

 

[The Shooman]

you're kidding, right?

Surely a Big Daddy like you can tell the jacket is not "full and comfortable" but rather too big and ridiculously boxy - it has no shape for a man who clearly has one - it's a rectangle when it could be two opposing triangles.

Just a style choice. It is bigger, but it is still pretty clean. An old style cut, but mixed with crazy edgy pockets on the side.

In terms of the cut, the armholes are too wide and low - see weird bag forming below the armpits which tells you that the back is not proportionate to the man's figure either - and the shoulders are too wide and out of proportion as well.

Agreed

Stylistically, the pockets are terrible, the sleeves are so wide that you have deformations everywhere, and the jacket is just too long for him.

Agreed, but some men like the look of a wider sleeve and a bit of extra room.

The point is, he has the extra room and he has the cleanness to go with it for the most part. It is a balance isn't it.

And I am too a big fan of full trousers, but I think this one is one bridge too far...

Nah, he nails it.

Good to read your comments, and when l look closer l can well understand what you are saying. I reckon AskOkey is going through a stage and may regret his choices one day; his suits are too attention grabbing.

 

[belinmad]

Just a style choice. It is bigger, but it is still pretty clean. An old style cut, but mixed with crazy edgy pockets on the side.

 

[The Shooman]

^^^

Looks better than 99% of men today. At least his collar doesn't come off the back of his neck.

 

[belinmad]

^^^

Looks better than 99% of men today. At least his collar doesn't come off the back of his neck.

You have strange standards, Big Collar Daddy

 

[theinvisiblehand]

Awesome updates! Currently living vicariously through you as I have not had fittings in a hot minute.

I really want to see this pinstripe once finished.

That was me 10 years ago when I was everyone in England and Italy getting fittings and all I had was Canadian sadness.

I have a fitting the week after next for the pinstripe. I'll make sure to post.

Keep it coming. Great stuff.

Will do!

 

[The Shooman]

My new one. 17oz Huddersfield tweed.
Sleeves made a bit longer because this is designed to be worn with mainly 3 ply turtlenecks.
Can't see the trousers much, but those are also made by my tailor, fishtail trousers designed to be worn above the navel.
Is still stiff and needs a good break in period.

 

[belinmad]

My new one. 17oz Huddersfield tweed.
Sleeves made a bit longer because this is designed to be worn with mainly 3 ply turtlenecks.
Can't see the trousers much, but those are also made by my tailor, fishtail trousers designed to be worn above the navel.
Is still stiff and needs a good break in period.
View attachment 48133

Is that your usual stance, shoulders back and straight spine?
If not, that jacket is seriously unbalanced, and 2-3cm too short

 

[The Shooman]

^^^

Yep, l stand like that. + I am standing on a slope, so that doesn't help.

The coat is cut slightly on the longer side, l don't like short coats. One of my tailors hallmarks is his balanced coats, sleeve pitch and great collars that never move.

Photos never make clothes look as good as real life.

Late edit: people don't know that l am a very difficult fit with coats and trousers. For a tailor to get a result like that is nothing short of miraculous. If l listed all the issues my tailor has in fitting me you'd be shocked. People have no idea of the magic this man works, he really is like a magician. Quite frankly, l wouldn't want to go to any other tailor because l am not sure they could do what he does.

 

[güero]

Yep, l stand like that.

That's a very un-falun-gong stance, isn't it?

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

My new one. 17oz Huddersfield tweed.
Sleeves made a bit longer because this is designed to be worn with mainly 3 ply turtlenecks.
Can't see the trousers much, but those are also made by my tailor, fishtail trousers designed to be worn above the navel.
Is still stiff and needs a good break in period.
View attachment 48133

Lovely, comfy-looking jacket.

 

[The Shooman]

Lovely, comfy-looking jacket.

Yes. Tweed coats are my absolute favourites, so comfort and a bit of extra room is a must. It's a fine balance of cleanliness and comfort, and it takes years to really learn that balance. You should see the bunch of 21 oz cavalry twill trousers in the works, they are absolute beauties. Fabric by W Bill.

So what is next? Another tweed coat and a real big daddy coat made of Lumbs Golden bale from Lessers for the Spring, and another bunch of 21 oz Cav twills in various shades to pair with the tweed coats. I am like Thruth ,l am a big Winter Daddy, but not in his league of course.

Lumb Golden Bale big daddy fabric.

H LESSER LUMBS GOLDEN BALE JACKETING/ALL WOOL - Harrisons

320 gm 11 oz 150cm wide 100% Pure Lumbs Golden Bale

www.harrisons1863.com

also this by Lessers for trousers to pair with my navy blazer.

H LESSER 11/12OZ / ALL WOOL - Harrisons

350gms / 11 – 12ozs 150cm wide. 100% All Wool Lightweight worsted suiting

www.harrisons1863.com

 

[The Shooman]

The collar test

A famous bespoke name v's nobody aussie tailor. All coats buttoned up.

Kirby hails a cab with an arm up. His collar pulls off his neck at the back and the sides.


Shooey hails a cab with an arm up. His collar doesn't move.


Shooey hails a cab again with an arm up. His collar doesn't move.


Some here say l speak BS when l talk about the secrets of a properly cut collar. Well, lets put it to the test to see if l am.

Post your Savile Row bespokes and Shattuck bespokes with your arms raised up and see if the collar comes off the neck. You hear that belinmad , you wanna play?

 

[belinmad]

The collar test

A famous bespoke name v's nobody aussie tailor. All coats buttoned up.

Kirby hails a cab with an arm up. His collar pulls off his neck at the back and the sides.
View attachment 48167

Shooey hails a cab with an arm up. His collar doesn't move.
View attachment 48168

Shooey hails a cab again with an arm up. His collar doesn't move.
View attachment 48169

Some here say l speak BS when l talk about the secrets of a properly cut collar. Well, lets put it to the test to see if l am.

Post your Savile Row bespokes and Shattuck bespokes with your arms raised up and see if the collar comes off the neck. You hear that belinmad , you wanna play?

I posted this picture years ago, when talking about Shattuck’s “telephone test” - how Frank shows that the structure of a well cut coat should not move when you pick up a phone.

It’s collar, shoulder and fronts, driven by a number of features, most importantly arm hole and shoulder construction. Please note this a fully buttoned db coat.

Not only the collar doesn’t move, neither does the shoulder, unlike those tyrannosaurus rex coming out of your clavicle. That first arm hole in the blue coat is wide as the (sinking) titanic - looks like a MTO pattern rather than true bespoke.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

The collar test

A famous bespoke name v's nobody aussie tailor. All coats buttoned up.

Kirby hails a cab with an arm up. His collar pulls off his neck at the back and the sides.
View attachment 48167

Shooey hails a cab with an arm up. His collar doesn't move.
View attachment 48168

Shooey hails a cab again with an arm up. His collar doesn't move.
View attachment 48169

Some here say l speak BS when l talk about the secrets of a properly cut collar. Well, lets put it to the test to see if l am.

Post your Savile Row bespokes and Shattuck bespokes with your arms raised up and see if the collar comes off the neck. You hear that belinmad , you wanna play?

This should be fun. Mrs Ambrose has taken all my comics away to give to Oxfam.