ASSHAT
Well-Known Member
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Drapers five star by any chance?
yes
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Drapers five star by any chance?
May i ask why you are considering getting a blazer made in lesser or scabal 9oz cloth. I know i’m new here, but reading up on some of your posts you didnt strike me as a man dreaming about a navy blazer in summer suiting fabric. if that is really what you need look at mockleno from huddersfield fine worsted, h&s, smiths or some other usual suspects?
Actually, i was expecting you would be getting a cashmere blazer for the winter since you seem to always be cold, layering up etc? Why not get a nice beefy luxurious lp cashmere blazer?
Ah, understood. No lesser is not hotter than similar fabrics from other makers of similar weight and weave. Just note that afaik there is no real blazer fabric in the lesser 9.5/10oz book. There are a lot of nice blues in there imo. That’s why i suggested looking at mocklino weave. Anyway, if you stick with the lesser book you are looking at make sure to get details like pockets and buttons right to avoid the it looking like an orphaned suit jacket. Good luck with the projectand l want my fabric to look very luxurious with depth, but without a sheen, ie, a dull looking fabric that is beautiful yet understated (no modern looking fabric). My taste is unusual. The type of material is important, and l will know it when l see it today.
I am hoping 9 - 10 oz is not too hot in 25 degree weather. Is Lesser hotter than other fabrics?
Ah, understood. No lesser is not hotter than similar fabrics from other makers of similar weight and weave. Just note that afaik there is no real blazer fabric in the lesser 9.5/10oz book. There are a lot of nice blues in there imo. That’s why i suggested looking at mocklino weave. Anyway, if you stick with the lesser book you are looking at make sure to get details like pockets and buttons right to avoid the it looking like an orphaned suit jacket. Good luck with the project
Ah, understood. No lesser is not hotter than similar fabrics from other makers of similar weight and weave. Just note that afaik there is no real blazer fabric in the lesser 9.5/10oz book. There are a lot of nice blues in there imo. That’s why i suggested looking at mocklino weave. Anyway, if you stick with the lesser book you are looking at make sure to get details like pockets and buttons right to avoid the it looking like an orphaned suit jacket. Good luck with the project
Agree with this - I'd have to take a look at the lesser's books, but they tend to be more suiting than jacketing, more business oriented - you'll end up with a blazer that looks like an orphaned suit jacket.
Agree with this - I'd have to take a look at the lesser's books, but they tend to be more suiting than jacketing, more business oriented - you'll end up with a blazer that looks like an orphaned suit jacket.
Yes, definitely want to avoid the orphaned suit jacket look. I had the luxury of spending much of the afternoon at my tailors, so l was very lucky, but it helps that l have known him a long time.
I ordered fully canvassed sportscoat in a lessor 11 oz, no.30918 with a purple patterned lining. It's a nice rich navy blue and not as dark as 30920. Anyone know the fabric? Definitely a big premium for lesser over the H&S, but looks to be worth it, the Lesser looks less common than many of the other fabrics, and that is the way l want it. Even better is that very few tailors in Australia stock Lesser & Sons or Scabal.
The lesser l have is from the Harrisons book, my tailor doesn't stock old bolts of fabric like some of the S.R guys do. He was also telling me he thinks the Scabal is better than the new Lesser fabrics under the Harrison name, and it has a price to match. Some of those Scabal cashmeres are devastatingly seductive and luxurious.
One thing l do notice is that the tweeds are not what they used to be. The old stuff was proper tweed and made to last, but the stuff in the books is all so meh.
O.k, I will go back in and look at other fabrics before he orders the material. What do you suggest from the Scabal or H&S books?
The fabric I chose is very nice fabric, maybe too nice for a navy sportscoat, probably better for a suit. Getting the fabric right for a navy sportscoat is not so easy. You think a fabric less fancy and luxurious?
If my memory serves me correctly the 11oz range is pretty much a twill weave whereas the 9oz range is pretty much a plain weave. Think the 11 oz twill weave would serve your purposes better for an old school look, that will not at all be mistaken for a suit if the details are done right
This is accurate. Great cloths to be had, but highly individualGenerally scabal and h&s ranges are seasonal. They are impossible to assess overall as the ranges are enormous and constantly changing. Unlike lessers who almost never change their offering. On a case by case basis i have gotten really good cloths from both Scabal and H&S. There are some rumors though that H&S production is now being principally done in south america.
Generally scabal and h&s ranges are seasonal. They are impossible to assess overall as the ranges are enormous and constantly changing. Unlike lessers who almost never change their offering. On a case by case basis i have gotten really good cloths from both Scabal and H&S. There are some rumors though that H&S production is now being principally done in south america.
Poyshinally I've always considered Scab-al.....Eurotrash cloth.
I mean....wool impregnated with crushed (semi)-precious stones....
Puhlease...
That's s'nice. Most city books will have cloth suitable for a blazer. Hopsacks, Twills and the like.
Lol you must have selective memory loss. As Reid and Tailor silver gander fan, you of course must remember that Scabal was the last merchant to carry such cloth. I preferred the Bronze Eagle actually, much heavier.
Also Scabals heavy weight big ben, was on par withe lessers 16 oz, maybe even better. I have a double breasted navy herringbone en cours.
And of course Scabal Titan rivaled Dormy Tonic in the 3 ply mohaor game.
But what do i know?
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do you consider the plain weaves in the 9oz and below books suitable for a proper blazer? I certainly do not. And thats what we were discussing until this morning.
Several merchants carried Reid & Taylor, they were a weaver. Holland & Sherry carried them too at one time. As did Keith & Henderson (I think they were the original merchant long gone or merged/bought out)
I don't think I've ever seen anything in a Scabal book, and I've looked at loads over the years, that wasn't done better and/or cheaper by other merchants. It seems to specialise in cloth for the Euro/middle/far eastern markets. Simply not to my taste. (do they still stock any of those books you listed?)
As I recall Silver Gander was heavier (approx 18oz) than Bronze Eagle (15oz ish) may have that the wrong way around but don't think so.
Minnis used to do a high twist too (can't remember the name), which was similar to R&T may have been made by them.
I've had lots of stuff made from H&S over the years however, they strike a nice balance between classic English taste mixed with more 'eclectic' cloths if yoyu want to push the boat out.
I would pick H&S over Scabal any day of the week.
dear brother
What is your taste?
I like light and luxe tissues, love to wear my money where the ladies can see it
Several merchants carried Reid & Taylor, they were a weaver. Holland & Sherry carried them too at one time. As did Keith & Henderson (I think they were the original merchant long gone or merged/bought out)
I don't think I've ever seen anything in a Scabal book, and I've looked at loads over the years, that wasn't done better and/or cheaper by other merchants. It seems to specialise in cloth for the Euro/middle/far eastern markets. Simply not to my taste. (do they still stock any of those books you listed?)
As I recall Silver Gander was heavier (approx 18oz) than Bronze Eagle (15oz ish) may have that the wrong way around but don't think so.
Minnis used to do a high twist too (can't remember the name), which was similar to R&T may have been made by them.
I've had lots of stuff made from H&S over the years however, they strike a nice balance between classic English taste mixed with more 'eclectic' cloths if yoyu want to push the boat out.
I would pick H&S over Scabal any day of the week.
of course several merchants carried R&T, i just stated that scabal was the last to specifically carry it. I have reid and taylor suits and/or cut lenghts from all of the merchants you mentioned above (h&s, keith & henderson and others) and even a pile of old swatch books. Maybe i’ll dig out the photos for you one day.
you are mistaken, bronze eagle was much heavier. You can see the weight of the silver gander on the photo i attached (470g).
up until a few years ago scabal big ben was still available, it was ultimately added to another city book, but frankly i dont know if its still in stock.
While H&S has certainly produced great cloth and might sometimes still do, most pf there production has moved to south america. scabal on the other hand now owns the Bower Robuck mill and still produces alot of the cloth in Yorkshire. I would challenge you to show me any current H&S cloth that say made in England on the selvage. Very few of any still do.
of course several merchants carried R&T, i just stated that scabal was the last to specifically carry it. I have reid and taylor suits and/or cut lenghts from all of the merchants you mentioned above (h&s, keith & henderson and others) and even a pile of old swatch books. Maybe i’ll dig out the photos for you one day.
you are mistaken, bronze eagle was much heavier. You can see the weight of the silver gander on the photo i attached (470g).
up until a few years ago scabal big ben was still available, it was ultimately added to another city book, but frankly i dont know if its still in stock.
While H&S has certainly produced great cloth and might sometimes still do, most pf there production has moved to south america. scabal on the other hand now owns the Bower Robuck mill and still produces alot of the cloth in Yorkshire. I would challenge you to show me any current H&S cloth that say made in England on the selvage. Very few if any still do.
The last H&S cloth I had made up was out out one of their Tweed books. Never saw the bolt, so don't know what was on the Selvedge.
I'm not fussed about where its made, its the patterns, composition and quality of the cloth that interests me.
Do Scabal sell a lot of cloth in Britain? I know tailors always have their books but the ones I've talked to rarely order from them. I've never, as I can recall been guided to a Scabal book by a tailor.
Doghouse will have a better idea of what goes on on the Row.
you are safe with H&S tweed. That stuff last time i checked was UK made.
I really dont know how it sells in the UK. But you are certainly correct though Scabal, like Dormy do have strong roots in the French speaking parts of Europe. And do have similar luxury cloths selections for certain segments of the population.
H&S also used to make great luxury cloths as well in the 70s and 80s. There worsted wools with mink, chinchilla, apalaca and/or other noble fibers all come to mind and are still sold for big bucks by crazy Japanese collectors if you can believe it.
Lol you must have selective memory loss. As a Reid and Tailor silver gander fan, you of course must remember that Scabal was the last merchant to carry such cloth. I preferred the Bronze Eagle actually, much heavier.
Also Scabals heavy weight big ben, was on par with lessers 16 oz, maybe even better. I have a double breasted navy herringbone en cours.
And of course Scabal Titan rivaled Dormy Tonic in the 3 ply mohair game.
But what do i know?
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their Shetland tweeds were very nice too
Unpossible13 ounce if I remember. Very wearable
Unpossible
The one I had was I think from their Sherrytweed book.
Quite (too) loud, not had much wear out of it to be honest...
Its this:
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