fxh
OG Party Suit Wearer
- Messages
- 8,554
Nah - just a crappy throw awayNot a good day tomorrow for fun things. Too hot and wet. What type of umbrella do you have, something manly?
I might have to visit Sebastien soon.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Nah - just a crappy throw awayNot a good day tomorrow for fun things. Too hot and wet. What type of umbrella do you have, something manly?
I might have to visit Sebastien soon.
The unfair attack on Savile Row hero Pierre Lagrange
The Daily Mail has a new target – Pierre Lagrange. The enormously successful hedge funder has found himself in the cross hairs because he claimed money from Rishi Sunak’s furlough scheme for some of the staff at Huntsman – the All-Blacks of Savile Row tailors – which Pierre bought in 2013. As...www.spectator.co.uk
That's not a bad piece. I haven't been the biggest fan of Lagrange over the years, but I have to admit he has been good for the Row, unlike the other interlopers.
I actually was invited to that 2015 event at the UK Embassy here, but had a conflict and couldn't attend.
Not a good day tomorrow for fun things. Too hot and wet. What type of umbrella do you have, something manly?
I might have to visit Sebastien soon.
Yeah that was when I called in the other week and had a chat. I’d been a a long boozy lunch at RACV Club - 12.30 til 3.30. Then bumped into a bloke and had a few beers. After I left them I was walking up the other side of Bourke when I heard my name being called. A friend was at a footpath table having a drink. So. I got invited to have some more. Luckily I looked kinda respectable in a suit and tie. I then staggered to the train.fxh Did you take that photo? They are good blokes. I should see them more often. They are very old school.
Yeah that was when I called in the other week and had a chat. I’d been a a long boozy lunch at RACV Club - 12.30 til 3.30. Then bumped into a bloke and had a few beers. After I left them I was walking up the other side of Bourke when I heard my name being called. A friend was at a footpath table having a drink. So. I got invited to have some more. Luckily I looked kinda respectable in a suit and tie. I then staggered to the train.
I think I already posted what I was wearing that day.
I could re-skill you with a short course. No fee.Great story, and would have been a really fun day. Every now and then l miss the old days when l could do that.
22oz? How cold does it get where you live? I thought you were in Australia?
I was going to give this outfit in Amsterdam a try and get a summer jacket, nothing specific in mind regards cloth or style, by bespoke I assume it will be MTM:Does anyone have any plans for any summer tailoring?
If so, what?
You also get conditioned to large drops in temperature. In Rio it would get down to 17C for a couple of weeks at night and 22-25C in the day and everyone was walking around in woolly hats, thick jumpers and leather jackets complaining about how cold it was.In some parts of Oz it does get cold. Remember, the south of Oz is only 5,000 km from the South Pole where it gets -100 degrees below. Much of Oz is sunny and hot, and some of Oz is hot all the time and tropical, but not where l live. Oz is a big place.
I have a fire on tonight with 18 oz tweed trousers and a thick 3 ply cashmere skivvy. Might even pop on a 6 ply cardigan later.
If l could get 25 oz tweed for trousers i'd grab it.
This year is the year of the dark brown trousers. 3 pairs are set to be made up before the end of year....one in corduroy, one in tweed and the other a normal worsted wool.
Does anyone have any plans for any summer tailoring?
If so, what?
Plus a length of the Fox Mr. Slowboy fabric to be made up.
Collar gap often happens when you're moving around, raising your arms, or sitting down. Doesn't mean you have a bad fit.
What's the Mr Slowboy fabric?
Absolutely - but even though that's true, it won't stop people on the internet from criticising the look of other people's clothes!
A couple of those pics seem misleading. Collar gap often happens when you're moving around, raising your arms, or sitting down. Doesn't mean you have a bad fit.
Makes me kind of black pilled on this issue, tbh. I can only afford rtw, and I think I've done a reasonable job getting coats with minimal collar gap (which is annoying and something you can't unsee, once seen, as you said), but if even the big names are incapable of getting rid of it, where does that leave us?
show us your collar gap Doggy. If l ever meet you i'll slip some marbles down the back of your suit mate.How plebian to worry about collar gaps.
I think block and body build come into it. I don't have any issue with collar gap and I'm only buying RTW at the moment.Makes me kind of black pilled on this issue, tbh. I can only afford rtw, and I think I've done a reasonable job getting coats with minimal collar gap (which is annoying and something you can't unsee, once seen, as you said), but if even the big names are incapable of getting rid of it, where does that leave us?
Where does that leave us? Obviously tailors should learn from those rtw companies and tailors that have solved the collar gap problem. Many tailors seem to be stuck in the old ways and don't want to change their ideas, so they don't look for solutions IMO.
Sonya talks about collar gaps here. She thinks the same way l have for the last 17 years. Once you see it you will never go there again.
A collar gap makes a suit look sloppy and unfinished. It needs that tightening up to get that really smart finished look. I think it is more than just the collar, a suit needs to be cut to fit so it is not moving around and shifting to the back of the body.
As l have been told, it is not just about fitting and cutting, it is also measuring and how the suit is made (I suppose that could mean shaping the suit and making to the clients body, and the materials used, and how they are used).
Other famous makers with collar gap.
Rubinacci
The older man always has collar gaps where-as the son doesn't seem too. Looks like they can't get the collar to fit well on the dad's figure. You could fit a bag of marbles in the back of his collar. It also pulls off at about 2 o'clock (not a good sign).
I am shaped like My Rubinacci at the back of the neck, and no collar should fit me, but it just means extra shrinking and shaping the collar to make it fit. My tailor shrinks my collars 3 inches (I think).
View attachment 36855
View attachment 36856
A Savile Row suit. Don't know the maker.
Collar gap, l could slide marbles down the back of his suit there.
View attachment 36857
and worst of all, the collar starts to pull sidewards off his neck. No shape to the collar at all. Might have been attached flat to the suit without any pre-shaping. Ciffonelli seems to do the same thing, but no way near as bad.
View attachment 36858
I still enjoy the nice suits, but those things take away from the fit and appearance.