Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Ryan Owens

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Because when men smile, it can at times look effete, a sign of submission. There's lots of research into this and that women find smiling men less attractive. That's why the best face to pose is one of heroic or noble defiance.
I would accept that... if these men were not already incredibly effete.
 

Great White Snark

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464
qf Gerry Nelson and an endless series of shit-eating grins.
Ditto that Beardy Eidos fella who always looked like he was about to piss his pants with laughter in his sloppy suit pics.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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3,562
Dave Sullivan knew how to wear a hat, while Kitty May have been one of my first pubescent crushes.
They went to great lengths to get the mise en scene right, especially as the war years where well within living memory in the very late 1970s and early 80s. It so resonated with the common the culture of the time, including the UK, with the elements of the home front and soap opera interlaced with the boys in the jungles on the Kokoda trail.
 

fxh

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That house and shops and a fair bit of outside was filmed a few streets away from where I am.
 

Great White Snark

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464
Kenneth? Do you mean this one? I must confess that I covet that jacket.

Look at the cut. None of that iTalian cutaways front quarters nonsense, or overdone mappina. It's structured to the right degree, but has a soft natural shoulder. There's enough of a pattern to make it casual, but not so much that it overpowers the ensemble.

God damn I want that jacket.

I ve seen a similar Ben Silver jacket in Harris Tweed.
It’s a great ensemble till you get to the feet. All these earth times including brown belt but then stark white socks and black loafers. Would be much improved by either loafers or (obvious choice) brogues in rustic pebble grainn chestnut or burgundy.
 

Kingstonian

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1,407
I ve seen a similar Ben Silver jacket in Harris Tweed.
It’s a great ensemble till you get to the feet. All these earth times including brown belt but then stark white socks and black loafers. Would be much improved by either loafers or (obvious choice) brogues in rustic pebble grainn chestnut or burgundy.
Sir Bufton Tufton on top. Michael Jackson below.
 

Untermensch

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256
I ve seen a similar Ben Silver jacket in Harris Tweed.
It’s a great ensemble till you get to the feet. All these earth times including brown belt but then stark white socks and black loafers. Would be much improved by either loafers or (obvious choice) brogues in rustic pebble grainn chestnut or burgundy.
He was being photographed by Allan Warren indoors. Then he was asked to step outside for a final photograph. Hence the loafers.

This one? http://www.bensilver.com/Straw-Sport-Coat-with-Multi-Colored-Windowpanes-in-Wool-Silk-and-Linen,37579.html#.XUmRWpMzb6Y

Sonofabitch they start at 38. I'm a puny 36. (Centuries of genetic breeding working down t'pit, you see.)
 

Great White Snark

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464
That’s not the one I was thinking of.
I think there was a thread on here about autumn sportcoats and someone posted a pic of a rack of tweeds among whichbwas a lovat green herringbone with rusty orange windowpane. I think I tracked it down to Ben Silver Harris Tweed from a couple of years ago but it was either out of stock and/or ridiculously overpriced as is usual for Ben Silver stuff.

Harris Tweed # HB111 might get you close if you’re in the bespoke market.
 

Untermensch

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256
I'm afraid I'm currently in the market for a RTW unlined jacket. So if you chaps spot anything, do gizzashout.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,131
I will put this here because it is a very interesting video.

LINEN - Making Linen Fabric from Flax Seed - Demonstration Of How Linen Is Made

Picture timeline:

Planting the flax seed:
Linen 1.jpg

3 months of growth:
Linen 2.jpg

Harvesting the flax grass:
Linen 3.jpg

Soaking the flax grass for 6 weeks:
Linen 4.jpg

Beating the heck out of the flax grass (straw):
Linen 5.jpg

Crunching the flax grass:
Linen 6.jpg

Ripping the flax grass through metal prongs:
Linen 7.jpg

The end result = pure linen.

Maybe l should make my own linen.
Linen 8.jpg
 

fxh

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I will put this here because it is a very interesting video.

LINEN - Making Linen Fabric from Flax Seed - Demonstration Of How Linen Is Made

Picture timeline:

Planting the flax seed:
View attachment 32558

3 months of growth:
View attachment 32559

Harvesting the flax grass:
View attachment 32560

Soaking the flax grass for 6 weeks:
View attachment 32561

Beating the heck out of the flax grass (straw):
View attachment 32562

Crunching the flax grass:
View attachment 32563

Ripping the flax grass through metal prongs:
View attachment 32564

The end result = pure linen.

Maybe l should make my own linen.
View attachment 32565
Linen’s lineage
Linen comes from the inner fibres of flax plants. It is the strongest of all plant fibres. Like sheep, linen was first domesticated in Mesopotamia. The oldest known piece of clothing is made of linen. We’ve been using this fibre for so long, it’s embedded itself deep into the English language. Line, lingerie, lining all have historical roots in linen.

What I’ve discovered is that Victoria has a special history with linen. In WWII, the British lost access to their normal sources of flax in Russia, Belgium and Ireland. Flax was used in coats and parachute harnesses, ropes, tarpaulins and glider covers. All important things for the war effort. The Brits told Australians to step up and gave Australia a quota. By 1942 that quota was 32,000 acres. Victoria’s share of that quota was 28,000 acres (a big jump from the 2,000 acres grown in 1930). Farms in places like Hamilton, Colac, Berwick and Drouin contributed flax. There were 10 mills and six deseeding depots at places like Drouin, Lake Bolac and Myrtleford. The Australian Women’s Land Army helped grow and harvest the crop. Sheep helped too, eating weeds in flax fields.
 

fxh

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Shooey
1941
COLAC FLAX MILL BURNT
COLAC, Wednesday. - Damage
estimated at some thousands of
pounds was caused by fire which
destroyed the Colac flax mills and
machinery early this morning. The
mill, which was working three shifts,
had n large quantity of flax to
handle.
The cause of the fire is unknown.
SABOTAGE SUSPECTED
Police suspect that the Colac flax
mill Are was due to sabotage, and
Detective Wright, of Warrnambool
is to go to Colac today to make in-
vestigations.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,131
Rambo I don't know where to put this, but this is for you. Kirby celebrates 100,000 subscribers. I only flicked through it for 10 minutes, but l learned that he has the best cigar cutter in the world and that he flew his father-in-law halfway around the world to specially pick up the remaining half a box of cigars so Kirby could smoke them. Check him out Rambo, he is in full rig with champagne and all. I must admit I cracked a smile when l saw this. He is a bit tipsy at the end with glazed eyes.

Btw Rambo, l should also remind you that Kirby also has the best pencil sharpener in the world.

 
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Journeyman

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^I, too, like to put on a dinner suit and sit in front of my laptop! ;)

Seriously, though, even though I think that his business is a bit ridiculous, I'm impressed that he's built up his business from selling overpriced hangers to a business dealing in general men's luxury accessories and that he's got 100,000 YouTube subscribers.
 

The Shooman

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^I, too, like to put on a dinner suit and sit in front of my laptop! ;)

Seriously, though, even though I think that his business is a bit ridiculous, I'm impressed that he's built up his business from selling overpriced hangers to a business dealing in general men's luxury accessories and that he's got 100,000 YouTube subscribers.
He is a good businessman for sure. Even more impressive is his youtube following...he has done something that no clothing/shoo person has really ever done, he has made ordinary content irresistable to watch. Great production and quality shoo videos for the first time ever one youtube. With this following l see him becoming a very famous guy in menswear, and he is going to have a business empire if he keeps it up, and he knows it. I am truly impressed he has used youtube videos to hype things up and get fame so quickly...he is doing something none of the other guys have been able to do. When it comes to making videos he has the x factor. He has good connections too. In chinese philosophy we would say he has plenty of de, and that is why everything falls into his lap and he does what he pleases. Some people are born with lots of de so they can live a life of pleasure and leasure, but most people aren't.
 

fxh

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I think he intended to post those in the disagreeable thread.
^
If this is heaven I’m bailing out.
C'mon youse. Hes the only bloke I've ever seen wear a suit sans tie and look good.
Remember he's dressed for performing onstage in one of the worlds longest running respected "rock" groups .
And he's from Melbourne.

He's not some jumped up salaryman drone or trust fund millennial from usa trying to impress people on SF with his take on "sprezz".

He's from Melbourne.
 

Kingstonian

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1,407
He is a good businessman for sure. Even more impressive is his youtube following...he has done something that no clothing/shoo person has really ever done, he has made ordinary content irresistable to watch. Great production and quality shoo videos for the first time ever one youtube. With this following l see him becoming a very famous guy in menswear, and he is going to have a business empire if he keeps it up, and he knows it. I am truly impressed he has used youtube videos to hype things up and get fame so quickly...he is doing something none of the other guys have been able to do. When it comes to making videos he has the x factor. He has good connections too. In chinese philosophy we would say he has plenty of de, and that is why everything falls into his lap and he does what he pleases. Some people are born with lots of de so they can live a life of pleasure and leasure, but most people aren't.
Really? There may be a gap in the iGent market since William Wardrobe retired.

I originally assumed Kirby was female because of the name. Mr. Wardrobe was more used to that fancy stuff though. Kirby seems a bit of a neophyte and some of his clothes raise eyebrows. He cannot pull off a Homburg for example.
Building an Internet following is not measure of quality either.
 

Untermensch

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Messages
256
Really? There may be a gap in the iGent market since William Wardrobe retired.

I originally assumed Kirby was female because of the name. Mr. Wardrobe was more used to that fancy stuff though. Kirby seems a bit of a neophyte and some of his clothes raise eyebrows. He cannot pull off a Homburg for example.
Building an Internet following is not measure of quality either.
It's only the abominable ignorance of the internet audience that allowed Kirby Allison to rise to such heights. Because if this was the real world, he'd be laughed back to Texas.

For a start, his pronunciation is execrable. He sells shedloads of the stuff, but still can't get his toungue round "Médaille d'Or" (it's not "medaille de or". As for "Uhm-knee-nedayant", forget it. He takes us on walking tours of Savile Row and such, and keeps saying "ateyeah" (it's "atelier" - you pronounce the L). Or "satoryah" (SARRRRRR-TO-REEEE-AH, damn it).

For God's sake - and this goes for all of you Merkins out there - if you're going to be a Youtube star and expert on things with exotic names, learn to pronounce your Os, Ts etc. the way they're meant to be pronounced.

P.S. It's "woosted", not "wurrrsted".

Then there's his absolutely fawning approach to anything English. The Savile Row crowd are all slightly bemused, but too polite to point it out, or to decline his invitations to a pub lunch.

I'm sure he's a nice bloke, but he shows off his wealth and connections in that annoying American way. He must have mentioned his club (the Carlton, with a reciprocal arrangement with the Travellers in London and Paris) a hundred million times.

As for "shoeshine interviews", spare me.

Right, now let's have a look at that third Jensen fitting.

PPS: God give me patience, there they go again with their "Napolian". The adjective is NEAPOLITAN.
 

The Shooman

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2,131
It's only the abominable ignorance of the internet audience that allowed Kirby Allison to rise to such heights. Because if this was the real world, he'd be laughed back to Texas.
Yes, sometimes he has raised eyebrows when he has said really dumb stuff. I'll never forget his Edward Green video where he said he could smell the quality of the leather and the EG bloke looked at him stunned for a second and then tried to hide his expression.
Here is that video, see from 11:17 - 11:25 = a very awkward cringe worthy moment moment.

His shoo knowledge is not the greatest either, but his audience look up to him as an expert because they know no better. I still like to watch his shoe videos.

I also like the G&G hype. Kirby says it is cut from the same leather as the bespoke shoes, but all that would mean is that the bespokes are cut from the best bit leather with the off-the-rack pairs being cut from the second third and maybe forth best bit of the leather.

The hype could make him famous some day.
 

Rambo

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Rambo I don't know where to put this, but this is for you. Kirby celebrates 100,000 subscribers. I only flicked through it for 10 minutes, but l learned that he has the best cigar cutter in the world and that he flew his father-in-law halfway around the world to specially pick up the remaining half a box of cigars so Kirby could smoke them. Check him out Rambo, he is in full rig with champagne and all. I must admit I cracked a smile when l saw this. He is a bit tipsy at the end with glazed eyes.

Btw Rambo, l should also remind you that Kirby also has the best pencil sharpener in the world.

damn you shooey. im hate watching the replay of this thing. is it a bad sign that i want to see him light his sleeve on fire while he's trying to light this stupid fucking cigar?
 
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