Agreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Thruth

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A Safari jacket is great. Not too warm in hot weather but good pockets. The main downside is securing the belt. The back of the jacket should be plainish; action shoulders, pleats etc is not so good. That is what I would change on my Silvermans jacket:-


It is definitely casual wear. Cravats and ties don’t work. Try too hard and it may become the dreaded 1970s leisure suit.
Yes, by all means post a pic of you wearing your safari jacket.

But you don’t post anything like that ever.
 

Thruth

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A Safari jacket is great. Not too warm in hot weather but good pockets. The main downside is securing the belt. The back of the jacket should be plainish; action shoulders, pleats etc is not so good. That is what I would change on my Silvermans jacket:-


It is definitely casual wear. Cravats and ties don’t work. Try too hard and it may become the dreaded 1970s leisure suit.
what is the point of the belt? You can find nicer shirt jackets, chore jackets with practical pockets, no belt and no 70's vomit-induction.

I agree with you on the fruitiness of the cravat mit safari. There is very little from the 70's that I would wear again outside of workwear/surplus. I wore 24 inch flares, velour tops and platform boots. I would not wear them again. There is not a style era I hate more.
 

fxh

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what is the point of the belt? You can find nicer shirt jackets, chore jackets with practical pockets, no belt and no 70's vomit-induction.

I agree with you on the fruitiness of the cravat mit safari. There is very little from the 70's that I would wear again outside of workwear/surplus. I wore 24 inch flares, velour tops and platform boots. I would not wear them again. There is not a style era I hate more.
mmh. I too wore tight stretch body shirts, huge collars, velvet 24" flares platform shoes etc. If I was younger I might even wear them again bit not now for me.

Don't be too keen to reject...

A lot of the 70 influence - not literal copies - is great.
High collar shirts
High rise street trousers
Opposite to skinny legs yoga tights silhouette
Some of the suits and more tailored clothing is perfectly wearable if slightly hip and "youth"
Chunkier shoes
A bit of colour.
Longer hair!!!
 

fxh

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Safari - works well in linen by giving it a chunkier look - but - like most style as apposed to fashion [yes that old trope] requires a "good eye" and some self knowledge
 

florisgreen

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mmh. I too wore tight stretch body shirts, huge collars, velvet 24" flares platform shoes etc. If I was younger I might even wear them again bit not now for me.

Don't be too keen to reject...

A lot of the 70 influence - not literal copies - is great.
High collar shirts
High rise street trousers
Opposite to skinny legs yoga tights silhouette
Some of the suits and more tailored clothing is perfectly wearable if slightly hip and "youth"
Chunkier shoes
A bit of colour.
Longer hair!!!
In fact many style elements from the Seventies, at that time exaggerated and ostentatious, can be integrated, in a restrained form. it today's clothing.
Wide lapels, high rise trousers, high and wide shirt collars, bold patterns, daring colours, broad and short neckties are all features I like, as said in a more subdued form.
 

florisgreen

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Mostly great style reveals in details.

A beautiful breast pocket with delightful stiching, Cesare Attolini:

Screenshot (203).png
 

florisgreen

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Jeans reinvented, Cesare Attolini:

View attachment 39155
I like this try to make the denim more sartorial and, as I see, it's quite successful. This denim has a nice colour and seems to have the right softness. The stitching is superb.

Also very nice to my eyes, this denim jacket (also here right softness) by Cifonelli, pleasantly combined with grey flannel trousers:

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belinmad

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I like this try to make the denim more sartorial and, as I see, it's quite successful. This denim has a nice colour and seems to have the right softness. The stitching is superb.

Also very nice to my eyes, this denim jacket (also here right softness) by Cifonelli, pleasantly combined with grey flannel trousers:

View attachment 39174View attachment 39175View attachment 39176

I think there’s definitely room for denim in the “sartorial” world, perhaps not for formal stuff, but definitely for more casual stuff. I had one of my (un)tailors (un)cut this Turkish denim (un)jacket, which I use mainly for travel. It’s comfortable and sportsy, doesn’t wrinkle easily, is fairly weather proof, etc.

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Panama

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mmh. I too wore tight stretch body shirts, huge collars, velvet 24" flares platform shoes etc. If I was younger I might even wear them again bit not now for me.

Don't be too keen to reject...

A lot of the 70 influence - not literal copies - is great.
High collar shirts
High rise street trousers
Opposite to skinny legs yoga tights silhouette
Some of the suits and more tailored clothing is perfectly wearable if slightly hip and "youth"
Chunkier shoes
A bit of colour.
Longer hair!!!
Fuck, I haven't got any hair...
 

Panama

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In fact many style elements from the Seventies, at that time exaggerated and ostentatious, can be integrated, in a restrained form. it today's clothing.
Wide lapels, high rise trousers, high and wide shirt collars, bold patterns, daring colours, broad and short neckties are all features I like, as said in a more subdued form.
And medallion?
 

Pimpernel Smith

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High collar shirts

Now you're talking my language...



High collars on peacock shirts giving the finger to that boring blue twill cloth look.

Be bold young man, be bold!

I like this try to make the denim more sartorial and, as I see, it's quite successful. This denim has a nice colour and seems to have the right softness. The stitching is superb.

Also very nice to my eyes, this denim jacket (also here right softness) by Cifonelli, pleasantly combined with grey flannel trousers:

View attachment 39174View attachment 39175View attachment 39176

Yes, but it's the same boring, PPE graduate, blue-grey-brown scheme he does every time.
 

Sauce

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Yes, but it's the same boring, PPE graduate, blue-grey-brown scheme he does every time.
I guess the basics appeal to the masses, once you've gone pass that stage bloggs become a little passe so he knows his market and that that market has a limited attention span. Maybe? as JMF would have said.
 

florisgreen

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Typical Neapolitan: wide and high lapel, natural shoulder and three buttons ironed to two, Sartoria Ciardi.

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A double breasted in a beautiful blue:

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QuandoDio

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Looks like something the joker would wear tbh.

Other than the relatively unusual and striking menswear colours, why do you like it?
 

florisgreen

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Difficult to explain why you like something or not, as it's more emotional than rational.
I'll tell you that I like those colours per se and in that bold combination.
 

formby002

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Some will say it's ghey, I love this combination of Lorenzo Cifonelli:

View attachment 39261

Don't like of course the elastic waitband.
I don't find the shirt and jacket unappealing. Not sure about the pants, both the colour and that thing around his waist. It's a very peacocky look, which you may get away with on Med, you couldn't in the UK.

It always worth remembering that he is also a tailor and is a walking billboard for his firm...
 

Thruth

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If I could find another safari shirt to wear with jeans (a la Thomas Magnum), I’d get it. Last one I had was an LL Bean, but I ended up having the tailor slim the body and sleeves a lot.
View attachment 39124
I get mine for work shirts for $25 CAD on sale at Marks Work Warehouse. No epaulets though. Slimmer no-tent cut. Cotton + some stretch. LS & SS. Latest ones are 3+ years old and have weathered well.

Screen Shot 2021-06-28 at 7.34.46 PM.png

Cheap, comfortable, bulletproof. The SS has different bellows chest pocket.


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florisgreen

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Lovely combination:

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Fabio Attanasio wears a jacket in military green made from old mattress covers once belonged to the French army, Eduardo De Simone.

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florisgreen

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Quite a similar style and look with the touches of the hat and the tie. This subdued military green is intriguing me lately.

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florisgreen

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Trousers by Ambrosi Napoli.

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He really seems to have a lucky hand for this garment.

Nice details:

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Very interesting in the last picture, the buttoned cuff. Maybe to allow the remotion of eventual dirt?
 

Sauce

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That buttoned cuff is for that purpose. That isn't a standard feature and costs an extra 50 euros. The third picture is from their 207 line which is factory made, no hand work. But still nice. Wider fit. Mr. Ambrosi is doing a trunk show here in September and I'm going to get him to do me a couple of pairs in that style by hand. The selvage lines match on the inside of the front pockets on the hand made pants. Riva cotton lines the waist band. Insane detailing. My local shop had the hand made ones done in H&S home funishing cloths which were really lush.
 

florisgreen

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I didn't know this tailor, who quite singularly has specialized on trousers.
I rather like his cut, substantially wider than the most examples seen on iGents. The care for details looks amazing.
 

Thruth

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I didn't know this tailor, who quite singularly has specialized on trousers.
I rather like his cut, substantially wider than the most examples seen on iGents. The care for details looks amazing.
Here is a thread about frustration in getting delivery of Ambrosi pants and him not being communicative at all.


then you need to read the SF saga of Foo and his Ambrosi pants. Including drunk texting by Ambrosi where the term oval headed dwarf was coined. I believe it was an attempt at an intervention. In Tokyo with the mysterious T4phage mediating. Too bad our banned euros aren't here as they have direct info.


 

Sauce

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mmm, threads from over ten years ago. You have to go that far back to find compliants about service? Maybe they were getting to grips with gearing up for demand? I've chosen and had 5 pairs made on 4 different occasions over the last 3 years. Never had an issue. As far as I'm aware the store that has stocked them over the last three years has never had an issue in getting their order on time.

Sorry if I seem like I want to have Ambrosi's babies but I can't fault the product or service. And I am a customer.
 
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