formby002

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Yes - all of these "name brand" watches used by the military were 40 or more years ago.

I don't get the fetishisation of a) "patina" and b) military service watches, particularly by Rolex collectors. A "milsub" (ie military-issue Rolex Submariner) will usually sell for north of US$100,000 - sometimes multiples of that amount.

Of course, there's the (now) rarity value but ultimately, it's just a watch and it's not your, or your family's wear on the watch.
They're basically investment vehicles now, like fine wines and the like.
 

Rambo

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IIRC Panerai got their start making dive watches for the Italian navy.
 

Journeyman

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They're basically investment vehicles now, like fine wines and the like.
I suspect that's certainly part of it - some collectors are looking for capital gains, or as a place to store assets.

However, some people really are obsessed with the details and the minutiae of the differences between models, or the way that the lume has darkened over time, and they'll really get very excited about those details. Look - that model used sword hands instead of the traditional Rolex "Mercedes" hands! And it's got a "tropical" dial. It's so lovely!
 

Great White Snark

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IIRC Panerai got their start making dive watches for the Italian navy.
I‘ve seen that in their advertising and found it baffling and amusing in equal measure. I mean they’re not exactly famous for their naval history and their finest hour was sending Columbus off to fuck up America five hundred years ago!
 

Great White Snark

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I suspect that's certainly part of it - some collectors are looking for capital gains, or as a place to store assets.

However, some people really are obsessed with the details and the minutiae of the differences between models, or the way that the lume has darkened over time, and they'll really get very excited about those details. Look - that model used sword hands instead of the traditional Rolex "Mercedes" hands! And it's got a "tropical" dial. It's so lovely!
Phwoooooar - check out that sub with the RED font on the dial!
 

Dropbear

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I‘ve seen that in their advertising and found it baffling and amusing in equal measure. I mean they’re not exactly famous for their naval history and their finest hour was sending Columbus off to fuck up America five hundred years ago!
A few years ago when I was watch shopping I came across a sub-fora on French aviator watches of the 1970s. While I don’t recall the brand, the idea of watch nerds getting boners for authentic military service in the French Air Force made me chuckle.
 

sirloin

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Whaa! Who wouldn’t rather bone for Armée de l'Air Française watches, than americaine #euro ;)

Could it have been Lemania?
 

Pimpernel Smith

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They're basically investment vehicles now, like fine wines and the like.
They certainly are, or heirlooms in many cases.

My brother who's never shown an interest in watches, suddenly bought two very good Rolex's when he was going through Schipol on business. He said they were to hand down to his sons. No kidding, as I've never seen him wear since.
 

Great White Snark

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They certainly are, or heirlooms in many cases.

My brother who's never shown an interest in watches, suddenly bought two very good Rolex's when he was going through Schipol on business. He said they were to hand down to his sons. No kidding, as I've never seen him wear since.
Yeah Patek are in on this. Their tag line is “You don’t own a Patek, you just take care of it for the next generation”.
 

Kingstonian

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I expect watch sales to suffer after covid.

Mechanical watches are an indulgence that many will not be able to afford.

Neophytes mostly are not old enough to remember the days of one manual watch which required servicing.

At least in my day repair options were plentiful and costs moderate. Now there is big money in servicing - even if we are not in printer ink territory.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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I expect watch sales to suffer after covid.

Mechanical watches are an indulgence that many will not be able to afford.

Neophytes mostly are not old enough to remember the days of one manual watch which required servicing.

At least in my day repair options were plentiful and costs moderate. Now there is big money in servicing - even if we are not in printer ink territory.
Already posted on the mega-deals I've seen.

Much depends on the next few months, if a second wave hits and it all goes civil war like in America. Luxury watches with complex movements will suddenly look rather garish and ostentatious.
 

Alterwelt

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I expect watch sales to suffer after covid.

Mechanical watches are an indulgence that many will not be able to afford.

Neophytes mostly are not old enough to remember the days of one manual watch which required servicing.

At least in my day repair options were plentiful and costs moderate. Now there is big money in servicing - even if we are not in printer ink territory.
overall yes. And good point about servicing. But...as the become investment vehicles, I think the luxury Watch market will get segmented even more with:

—on one end, really high end watches from brands (e.g. Patek, vacheron, AP, even boutique brands that survive like MB&F and Richard Mille) —and one the other end, more entry level luxury but nonetheless good watches from brands that survive; or same upmarket brands with diffusion lines below - like Rolex and Tudor.

There is likely to Not much in the middle. Like I don’t see how brands like jacquet droz and ulysse Nardin are going to stay relevant? Albeit they’re owned by swatch group i think.

ones like Cartier and chopard could survive as they are mostly a jeweler than watchmakers.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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overall yes. And good point about servicing. But...as the become investment vehicles, I think the luxury Watch market will get segmented even more with:

—on one end, really high end watches from brands (e.g. Patek, vacheron, AP, even boutique brands that survive like MB&F and Richard Mille) —and one the other end, more entry level luxury but nonetheless good watches from brands that survive; or same upmarket brands with diffusion lines below - like Rolex and Tudor.

There is likely to Not much in the middle. Like I don’t see how brands like jacquet droz and ulysse Nardin are going to stay relevant? Albeit they’re owned by swatch group i think.

ones like Cartier and chopard could survive as they are mostly a jeweler than watchmakers.
The middle will survive i.e. Longines and the likes. Queue gobshite liberals professing socialist credentials except when it comes to watches which they like to be luxury and expensive enough for them to keep wads of cash around so they can impress everyone on the forum. I'm Miami and all of that...oh yeah! The Brit unions and Labour party are the same, they really dig lavish displays of wealth in private.

The high end watch market risks 2007/08 type hit. It won't go away. The core market of super rich will always remain.
 

Alterwelt

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The second hand market as been pretty buoyant apparently.
for some references. Rolex and Patek steel (GMT, sub, daytona, aquanaut and nautilus) experienced a slight decline in the gray market but they never went back to MSRP levels. Now prices are climbing back up.

a lot of other brands I see are listing at ridiculous discounts.
 

Thruth

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A few years ago when I was watch shopping I came across a sub-fora on French aviator watches of the 1970s. While I don’t recall the brand, the idea of watch nerds getting boners for authentic military service in the French Air Force made me chuckle.
Breguet Type 20 was used from the late 50's/early 60's. Yema started suppling the French AF in the early 70's.
 

Dropbear

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That’s it! The Breguet is nice, though more money than anyone should spend on a watch.
 

Kingstonian

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The middle will survive i.e. Longines and the likes. Queue gobshite liberals professing socialist credentials except when it comes to watches which they like to be luxury and expensive enough for them to keep wads of cash around so they can impress everyone on the forum. I'm Miami and all of that...oh yeah! The Brit unions and Labour party are the same, they really dig lavish displays of wealth in private.

The high end watch market risks 2007/08 type hit. It won't go away. The core market of super rich will always remain.
Longines has a great history. However, ownership by Swatch may not help their current image.

All the Urban Gentry brands will fade away. Watchbox have binned him anyway.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Longines has a great history. However, ownership by Swatch may not help their current image.

All the Urban Gentry brands will fade away. Watchbox have binned him anyway.
The Urban Gentry does have a certain zombied out let's watch this quality I like. It's what the BBC use to do with Great Train Journeys of The World and the like, before they went all Woke.

This looks very urbane and refined on the wrist:

longines-longines-presence-gents-3850mm-automatic.jpg


Doesn't look remotely as good on Longines official website:
longines-longines-presence-gents-3850mm-automatic (1).jpg
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Longines has a great history. However, ownership by Swatch may not help their current image.
They are in good company in the Swatch Group: Blancpain, Glashutte, Omega, et al.

I was closing in on a new watch these last days, with the good discounts around: a rose faced Tudor, that Hamilton 1970s RAF re-edition, the Seiko chronograph a few posts above, some Tudor day-dates from Japan but didn't like the thought of running the import duties gauntlet, called BS on the latest Seiko Astrons, a mint 1970 Omega Constellation....and then decided to pull the trigger on this Longines Record:

L2.821.4.11.6PR-800x720.jpg


Been out since about 2017 now, COSC, nicely understated with a bit of presence. If meetings and conferences ever come back, that's the kind of watch you want to be wearing. From a distance and on the podium, it's going to show it's form, understated, classic and yet bold at the same time. No pretensions about displaying wealth and status. It is what it is: Roman numerals, on a white background, blue hands with a satin and polished bracelet. In a word: urbane.

Nice n' easy does it!
 

sirloin

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Good choice. When will you get it?
I really like the Longines Heritage with a sector dial. Great size at 38.5 mm.
Case could perhaps be a bit more refined, but not sure it makes that much of a difference - for those posted in Hong Kong.


 

Rambo

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always been a fan of the master collection varieties



iirc they used to offer the roman numeral version in the white face but i cant find it on the site any longer

 

Kingstonian

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They are in good company in the Swatch Group: Blancpain, Glashutte, Omega, et al.

I was closing in on a new watch these last days, with the good discounts around: a rose faced Tudor, that Hamilton 1970s RAF re-edition, the Seiko chronograph a few posts above, some Tudor day-dates from Japan but didn't like the thought of running the import duties gauntlet, called BS on the latest Seiko Astrons, a mint 1970 Omega Constellation....and then decided to pull the trigger on this Longines Record:

View attachment 34183

Been out since about 2017 now, COSC, nicely understated with a bit of presence. If meetings and conferences ever come back, that's the kind of watch you want to be wearing. From a distance and on the podium, it's going to show it's form, understated, classic and yet bold at the same time. No pretensions about displaying wealth and status. It is what it is: Roman numerals, on a white background, blue hands with a satin and polished bracelet. In a word: urbane.

Nice n' easy does it!
I particularly like this summary of vintage Longines :-


However the watches on sale have been there a long while. I suspect servicing might be an issue. I like the look of them. An 18carat gold one might be nice, but I am happy for others to own them while I stick to quartz watches that don’t require regular maintenance.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Good choice. When will you get it?
I really like the Longines Heritage with a sector dial. Great size at 38.5 mm.
Case could perhaps be a bit more refined, but not sure it makes that much of a difference - for those posted in Hong Kong.


Hopefully before the weekend, it left Longines in Switzerland today. I went through an official dealer here in the Netherlands.

The Sector watch is tempting with its Art Deco stylistics, but I don't like the straps. Of course, easily remedied. Of the two, I think the blue version looks the best.

always been a fan of the master collection varieties



iirc they used to offer the roman numeral version in the white face but i cant find it on the site any longer

The Master collection is good too, and this is the one for me:
www.boumanonline.nl-Longines-L27734783-BoumanOnline-30.jpg


Available in 2 sizes 38.5 and 40mm. Also steel bracelet, but I think the leather is best.

I particularly like this summary of vintage Longines :-


However the watches on sale have been there a long while. I suspect servicing might be an issue. I like the look of them. An 18carat gold one might be nice, but I am happy for others to own them while I stick to quartz watches that don’t require regular maintenance.
The issue with servicing is that you can't get original or branded replacement pieces. There's always a work around.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Good choice. When will you get it?
I really like the Longines Heritage with a sector dial. Great size at 38.5 mm.
Case could perhaps be a bit more refined, but not sure it makes that much of a difference - for those posted in Hong Kong.


Picked it up today, but the photos don't quite capture the blue of the hands and the silver of the Longines logo:

IMG_1249.jpg


IMG_1251.jpg


IMG_1252.jpg


It's a decent clean looking watch. Not overstated, smart enough to wear going out, or as daily beater in the office.

They had the Heritage sector watch in blue in, does looks good.

Now that Omega has gone into Rolex price territory, in that €2000-€3000, it's hard to beat Longines if you're looking for something classical or heritage based. What else have you got? Frederique Constant?

^
Nice watch
That triple day date month is a fuck-off board meeting watch. A lot of punch packed for in the smaller size 38.5mm. The only thing with all that complications going on you'd need to wear in daily to keep everything up to date.
 

sirloin

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Picked it up today, but the photos don't quite capture the blue of the hands and the silver of the Longines logo:

View attachment 34199

View attachment 34200

View attachment 34201

It's a decent clean looking watch. Not overstated, smart enough to wear going out, or as daily beater in the office.

They had the Heritage sector watch in blue in, does looks good.

Now that Omega has gone into Rolex price territory, in that €2000-€3000, it's hard to beat Longines if you're looking for something classical or heritage based. What else have you got? Frederique Constant?



That triple day date month is a fuck-off board meeting watch. A lot of punch packed for in the smaller size 38.5mm. The only thing with all that complications going on you'd need to wear in daily to keep everything up to date.
That looks great, and yes, a good beater that still looks smart. Congrats :) Nice and clean dial too.
 

Rambo

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Picked it up today, but the photos don't quite capture the blue of the hands and the silver of the Longines logo:

View attachment 34199

View attachment 34200

View attachment 34201

It's a decent clean looking watch. Not overstated, smart enough to wear going out, or as daily beater in the office.

They had the Heritage sector watch in blue in, does looks good.

Now that Omega has gone into Rolex price territory, in that €2000-€3000, it's hard to beat Longines if you're looking for something classical or heritage based. What else have you got? Frederique Constant?



That triple day date month is a fuck-off board meeting watch. A lot of punch packed for in the smaller size 38.5mm. The only thing with all that complications going on you'd need to wear in daily to keep everything up to date.
not too shabby. wear it in good health.
 

formby002

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Picked it up today, but the photos don't quite capture the blue of the hands and the silver of the Longines logo:

View attachment 34199

View attachment 34200

View attachment 34201

It's a decent clean looking watch. Not overstated, smart enough to wear going out, or as daily beater in the office.

They had the Heritage sector watch in blue in, does looks good.

Now that Omega has gone into Rolex price territory, in that €2000-€3000, it's hard to beat Longines if you're looking for something classical or heritage based. What else have you got? Frederique Constant?



That triple day date month is a fuck-off board meeting watch. A lot of punch packed for in the smaller size 38.5mm. The only thing with all that complications going on you'd need to wear in daily to keep everything up to date.
Nice watch. I think it would look even nicer on a leather strap.
 

Rambo

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WTF is this SF shit?
Et tu Rambo?

Next you’ll be asking “where to kop?” and referring to “pents” and “tasseks”!
what do you want me to do tell him because the watch is under $2000 that he should wear it and then walk into oncoming traffic?

i also didn't know not too shabby was in idiom of ill repute. of course i'll try to do better to live up to the forum's standards set forth by the community's big mahoff's.
 

Thruth

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what do you want me to do tell him because the watch is under $2000 that he should wear it and then walk into oncoming traffic?

i also didn't know not too shabby was in idiom of ill repute. of course i'll try to do better to live up to the forum's standards set forth by the community's big mahoff's.
it is probably the "wear it in good health" more than "not too shabby". But still, not an appropriate post from the man who fucked Walker in the face. Too saccharine sweet.

Pro tip:
  1. hesitate before writing your response and utilize any or all of these mental images to channel your anger and dismay for a more appropriate response:
    • Arnathor Arnathor trying to write a humorous post
    • Pimpernel Smith Pimpernel Smith posting the latest video that bare-chested, leather jacket wearing toilet brush of a conspiracy theorist
    • Fwiffo Fwiffo hating on the poors
    • The Euros should they ever return to DW
  2. now write
 

Fwiffo

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I'm the son of immigrants who had to work restaurants retail because no one recognised their credentials or granted them bursaries after freshman year. They happen to be, on my father's side, first ones to have a university degree. Why do you associate me with hating the poor? I grew up in a multigenerational rental apartment.

Clipping coupons to only buy the bad guy action figures wasn't fun but I got past it and moved on.
 

Thruth

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I'm the son of immigrants who had to work restaurants retail because no one recognised their credentials or granted them bursaries after freshman year. They happen to be, on my father's side, first ones to have a university degree. Why do you associate me with hating the poor? I grew up in a multigenerational rental apartment.

Clipping coupons to only buy the bad guy action figures wasn't fun but I got past it and moved on.
Just quoting the boss Fwiffs.
 

Fwiffo

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Just quoting the boss Fwiffs.
Nursing licences from Philly and New York State and my mother worked Swiss Chalet. But hey - part of the immigrant purgatory.

Anyway. I have a Longines watch. I've never worn it.
 

Fwiffo

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ok, now THIS i am fascinated by.
I think there is one link or half a link that needs to be taken off for a complete fit because I have women's wrists. But it was a gift from my last birthday from my parents. I intended to take it to the north African or middle eastern couple (or Jewish) people who change all my batteries, leather straps, etc but they are stuck underneath a financial building in the quarantine so I doubt they are open.
 

Thruth

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Nursing licences from Philly and New York State and my mother worked Swiss Chalet. But hey - part of the immigrant purgatory.

Anyway. I have a Longines watch. I've never worn it.
Boss said it Fwiffs, blah, blah, no one in my immediate family graduated high school until I did, blah, blah, all four grandparents were illiterate, blah, blah, my paternal grandfather died of silicosis from sandblasting all day with no PPE, blah, blah, my Gypsy parents came to Canada with me in her belly and put me up for adoption once I dropped, blah blah, my clothing store as a child was the Sally Ann, blah, blah, I have a Longines watch and I wear it, blah, blah, I talk to poors regularly
 

Rambo

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you ready for some navel gazing horseshit? get a load of this



you've got to read the blog post. its just a masterclass in ridiculous bullshit.
 
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