All About Watches

[florisgreen]

In this era, a wristwatch is man jewelry. And there is nothing wrong with that at all.

Watches are pretty much the only acceptable item of ''jewellery'' for men now.

Yes, only a good watch is worth adorning a classy man. Today it's en vogue among the iGents to wear a lot of bracelets and even rings: it's a very tacky and cheap looking use, I would definitely ban.

At this stage, mechanical and Quartz watches are like analogue film cameras completely superfluous. But unlike film cameras, they still have relevance on the aesthetic level and long may that reign.

Yes, actually nobody needs to wear a watch nowadays, though a nice timekeeper at the wrist does certainly enrich and fulfill a nice outfit.

 

[florisgreen]

I'm curious what those here think about whether the watch is an essential or inessential part of the well-dressed man's wardrobe. I've never worn a watch, not because I prefer telling time on my phone, but because I find that it would be uncomfortable having an object on my wrist all the time. But perhaps that discomfort would go away if I started wearing one consistently, much like a necktie may be uncomfortable at first if never worn before, but then one grows used to it.

I wouldn't consider a (handsome) watch an essential part of a man's wardrobe, but undoubtedly it's a great accessory that would add the proper final touch.
Of course the watch has to be chosen carefully and in my opinion it's better to wear no watch than a bad and poor one. As regard to the possible discomfort in having something at your wrist I think it's totally negligeable and highly counterbalanced by the pleasure given by a nice item.

 

[Journeyman]

That oddly fluted bezel is ugly in my eyes.

Looks like an engine-turned bezel. The style was quite common on "dressier" Rolex models in the past, such as the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust and Air King. In recent years, though, Rolex moved more towards fluted bezels.

The Day-Date is very keenly-priced, particularly in comparison to the Rolex version which only comes in precious metal.

 

[florisgreen]

Looks like an engine-turned bezel. The style was quite common on "dressier" Rolex models in the past, such as the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust and Air King. In recent years, though, Rolex moved more towards fluted bezels.

The Day-Date is very keenly-priced, particularly in comparison to the Rolex version which only comes in precious metal.

Yes, €2,160 is a very attractive price, but regret remains for something that could look much better.

This is my favourite version:

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Yes, €2,160 is a very attractive price, but regret remains for something that could look much better.

This is my favourite version:

View attachment 38511

The silver dial one looks reasonable in photos, but when you see them on the wrist, they look clunky and old fashioned.

Tudor have done much to differentiate themselves from Rolex over the last decade, this range seems a retrograde act.

 

[florisgreen]

Some nice entry/mid-range sport watches may be these Certina:

DS PH200M on mesh bracelet, sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel and gilt accents at €940.

Or this other reference with Hesalite crystal and aluminium bezel ($850 at Hodinkee)

Somewhat more expensive at $1,990 (Hodinkee), but really attractive this DS Chronograph Automatic:

 

[florisgreen]

A stunning new "Monaco" (limited to 500 pieces) in sandblasted titanium:

Nice to see on the dial the old logo Heuer (without TAG).

 

[Grand Potentate]

A stunning new "Monaco" (limited to 500 pieces) in sandblasted titanium:

View attachment 38559View attachment 38560

Nice to see on the dial the old logo Heuer (without TAG).

come to papa! that is so fucking hot.

 

[Equus]

A stunning new "Monaco" (limited to 500 pieces) in sandblasted titanium:

View attachment 38559View attachment 38560


Nice to see on the dial the old logo Heuer (without TAG).

I made a strap for one of the originals a while ago. They are lovely, but absolutely MASSIVE! I was surprised by how big a case it had

 

[Thruth]

I made a strap for one of the originals a while ago. They are lovely, but absolutely MASSIVE! I was surprised by how big a case it had

Wow, 4 years between posts. That has to be a record. Welcome back

 

[Equus]

Wow, 4 years between posts. That has to be a record. Welcome back

Thank you. Its an interesting exercise in to the way my mind works I suspect. See a link to DressedWell on SF, think "I havent been there for ages, I wonder what's going on", followed by reading the post about watches and seeing a nice Tag. Hadn't entered my head in 4 years to a post in 4 clicks, the internet at its best..

 

[florisgreen]

Not the most famous brand, even in Germany, but surely among the most prestigious, Glashuette Original offers mostly dress/elegant watches, this sport diver SeaQ is very interesting however, offered in two sizes: 39,5mm and 43,2mm.

Limited edition with gilt numerals and different coloured hands:

Compared with the 60s original:

Regular version with the hands also in gilt colour:

Nice bicolor version in steel and gold:

A green one:

In blue with "Panorama Datum" (big date)

The official prices are rather high from ca. €10,000 to €24,500 for the full gold version (on rubber or textile strap, no bracelet), nonetheless very attractive timepieces.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Not the most famous brand, even in Germany, but surely among the most prestigious, Glashuette Original offers mostly dress/elegant watches, this sport diver SeaQ is very interesting however, offered in two sizes: 39,5mm and 43,2mm.

Limited edition with gilt numerals and different coloured hands:

View attachment 38631

Compared with the 60s original:

View attachment 38632


Regular version with the hands also in gilt colour:

View attachment 38633


Nice bicolor version in steel and gold:

View attachment 38634


A green one:

View attachment 38635


In blue with "Panorama Datum" (big date)

View attachment 38636

The official prices are rather high from ca. €10,000 to €24,500 for the full gold version (on rubber or textile strap, no bracelet), nonetheless very attractive timepieces.

still on my holy grail list

 

[Grand Potentate]

the blue with the white moon is unique. i dont think i've ever seen a white moon dial before but i could be wrong on that one

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Some nice entry/mid-range sport watches may be these Certina:

DS PH200M on mesh bracelet, sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel and gilt accents at €940.

View attachment 38526

Or this other reference with Hesalite crystal and aluminium bezel ($850 at Hodinkee)

View attachment 38527


Somewhat more expensive at $1,990 (Hodinkee), but really attractive this DS Chronograph Automatic:

View attachment 38528

Massive bang for your buck with Certina. They get a mention in Richard Burton's diaries, he bought one of their divers.

Not the most famous brand, even in Germany, but surely among the most prestigious, Glashuette Original offers mostly dress/elegant watches, this sport diver SeaQ is very interesting however, offered in two sizes: 39,5mm and 43,2mm.

Limited edition with gilt numerals and different coloured hands:

View attachment 38631

Compared with the 60s original:

View attachment 38632


Regular version with the hands also in gilt colour:

View attachment 38633


Nice bicolor version in steel and gold:

View attachment 38634


A green one:

View attachment 38635


In blue with "Panorama Datum" (big date)

View attachment 38636

The official prices are rather high from ca. €10,000 to €24,500 for the full gold version (on rubber or textile strap, no bracelet), nonetheless very attractive timepieces.

Aren't they the ones with a 100 hr power reserve?

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Couple of fly-backs I like:

The Tudor Grantour is discontinued now, but you can mint second hand on Chrono24 for under €2,500. The Frederique Constant's you can get from dealers for around the same price. A good grand off the list price.

 

[florisgreen]

The relaunch project of a great diver from the sixties has brought to these new versions of the Triton. About $5,750.

Particularly nice to me the version with gilt dial.

Here a review by Hodinkee:
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/t...dern-reissue-of-an-unusual-vintage-dive-watch

 

[Equus]

12pm crown is quite fun

 

[Dropbear]

I like the case and dial a lot, but that minute hand is like my seven year old draws clocks.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

The relaunch project of a great diver from the sixties has brought to these new versions of the Triton. About $5,750.

View attachment 38743View attachment 38744View attachment 38745View attachment 38746View attachment 38747View attachment 38748

Particularly nice to me the version with gilt dial.

Here a review by Hodinkee:
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/t...dern-reissue-of-an-unusual-vintage-dive-watch

Reminds me of the Seiko Landmaster style:

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

The Seiko Prospex LX, spring drive so suitably expensive, is it a Grand Seiko Sport SBGA229 killer:

VS

Aesthetically, I think it's better than than the Grand Seiko, with the exception of the bracelet. But wouldn't want a Grand Seiko over a Prospex?

 

[florisgreen]

The Seiko Prospex LX, spring drive so suitably expensive, is it a Grand Seiko Sport SBGA229 killer:

View attachment 38778
VS
View attachment 38779

Aesthetically, I think it's better than than the Grand Seiko, with the exception of the bracelet. But wouldn't want a Grand Seiko over a Prospex?

Actually I even prefer the Seiko bracelet, looking sober and solid and better suiting the style, whereas I don't like those thin polished elements in the Grand Seiko one.

I guess that the Grand Seiko could still have a superior overall quality, but as sheer aesthetic I prefer the "poor" cousin.

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

I'm interested in the Seiko SLA051J1 with the grey textured dial:




You might wonder why it's so much more expensive than the standard ''Willard'', it's the 8L35 caliber which is basically an undecorated and unadjusted Grand Seiko 9S55 same as what's in the Marinemaster, all you need to to do is get it regulated for Grand Seiko performance:

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

Wonder what the waiting time is on one these:

Edit: It was discontinued in 2019, had a good run from 2004. Unusually, for Rolex, you can pick up for less than the new price. Circa $50,000.

Who other than Nicholas Cage, used in marketing material, would buy such a watch?

 

[belinmad]

Wonder what the waiting time is on one these:

View attachment 38820

Edit: It was discontinued in 2019, had a good run from 2004. Unusually, for Rolex, you can pick up for less than the new price. Circa $50,000.

Who other than Nicholas Cage, used in marketing material, would buy such a watch?

eeek. delete, delete!

 

[formby002]

Wonder what the waiting time is on one these:

View attachment 38820

Edit: It was discontinued in 2019, had a good run from 2004. Unusually, for Rolex, you can pick up for less than the new price. Circa $50,000.

Who other than Nicholas Cage, used in marketing material, would buy such a watch?

Mmmm,

That's rock star or WWF star material....

You could wear it as an ironic statement I suppose, but it would be a very expensive one.

I remember trying on the platinum Daytona when I picked up my Milgauss. That weighed like a brick. Offered me a good discount on it too...

 

[fxh]

my latest purchase. Will make The Foo jealous

 

[formby002]

my latest purchase. Will make The Foo jealous

View attachment 38821

Do they still make the ones with the calculator on?

 

[Dropbear]

Do they still make the ones with the calculator on?

Amazon product ASIN B000GB1R7S

 

[Pimpernel Smith]

eeek. delete, delete!

Sadly, I don't have the authority to delete that post.

Mmmm,

That's rock star or WWF star material....

I was thinking more like Idi Amin, only a madman would want to wear it.

But the marketing ploy of using Nicholas Cage is bizarre as is the watch itself:

The one time he was dressed in a colour scheme to accommodate it, he chose a 1950 Rolex triple-moon-date instead:

This is it, which later sold for over US$500,000, are you living on old man, oh yes very much indeed:

 

[güero]

my latest purchase. Will make The Foo jealous

View attachment 38821

Basically the only watch I ever wear

 

[florisgreen]

Wonder what the waiting time is on one these:

View attachment 38820

Edit: It was discontinued in 2019, had a good run from 2004. Unusually, for Rolex, you can pick up for less than the new price. Circa $50,000.

Who other than Nicholas Cage, used in marketing material, would buy such a watch?

Difficult to think of something tackier than this in watch matter.

 

[florisgreen]

Sadly, I don't have the authority to delete that post.

I was thinking more like Idi Amin, only a madman would want to wear it.

But the marketing ploy of using Nicholas Cage is bizarre as is the watch itself:

View attachment 38822

The one time he was dressed in a colour scheme to accommodate it, he chose a 1950 Rolex triple-moon-date instead:

View attachment 38823

This is it, which later sold for over US$500,000, are you living on old man, oh yes very much indeed:
View attachment 38824

Mr Nicholas Cage demonstrates a very bad taste: rings and bracelets are as horrible as the watch. Also the second Rolex, though classier and more restrained, is not something I would wear.

 

[florisgreen]

Reminiscent somehow of Panerai, Anonimo has its own aesthetic code. Among their different models I find the Nautilo Vintage rather attractive.

On leather strap or steel bracelet the different dial colours look very nice. At an official price of about €2,100 it's rather affordable and a good option for a sport watch.

 

[formby002]

Mr Nicholas Cage demonstrates a very bad taste: rings and bracelets are as horrible as the watch. Also the second Rolex, though classier and more restrained, is not something I would wear.

Yes, but bad taste isn't the same as no taste and if you know what bad taste is, it follows that you know what good taste is.

A bit of 'bad' taste in dress isn't a bad thing IMO as it shows confidence in one's choices (it's the knowingness aspect that clinches it).

Also, the notion of 'Taste' itself is controversial.

My own take on 'taste' is that it is a consensus and inimical to 'style' which is singular.

I would wear that watch, for the piss-off value alone but it's the kind of plaything that you have to have money-to-burn to own. I don't.

I also like and would wear Cage's striped shirt in the lower picture which reminds me of Duchamp when they were good.

 

[fxh]

Basically the only watch I ever wear

 

[güero]

View attachment 38839

Gotta be careful when travelling, from Wikipedia:

According to secret documents issued to interrogators at Guantanamo Bay, obtained[8] and released by The Guardian, "the Casio F-91W digital watch was declared to be 'the sign of al-Qaeda' and a contributing factor to continued detention of prisoners by the analysts stationed at Guantanamo Bay. Briefing documents used to train staff in assessing the threat level of new detainees advise that possession of the F-91W and the A159W – available online for as little as £4 – suggests the wearer has been trained in bomb making by al-Qaeda in Afghanistan."[9] United States Military intelligence officials have identified the F-91W as a watch that terrorists use in constructing time bombs.[10][11] [12][13]

 

[Otto]

How slim in terms of case thickness in mm should a dress watch be, so that it fits under a shirt cuff?

I actually have the above Casio (or some sort of Casio like that, sans the calculator), but I just tried to wear it and it's way too thick.

 

[florisgreen]

How slim in terms of case thickness in mm should a dress watch be, so that it fits under a shirt cuff?

I actually have the above Casio (or some sort of Casio like that, sans the calculator), but I just tried to wear it and it's way too thick.

That Casio is certainly NOT a dress watch, no matter how thick it is. A dress watch has to be as flat as possible, everything under 10mm is very good, even though you have great examples a little thicker. The Rolex Day Date, an exemplary dress watch is 12mm thick.

 

[florisgreen]

A great dress watch, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony hand-winding in platinum, 7,65mm thick: