An All-boot Dress Footwear Rotation

[Thruth]

So I have been moving to an all-boot rotation for wearing with suits and odd jackets and was wondering on what others think of this concept.

I already wear only boots outside of the office environment.

Currently, my "office boot" rotation consists of:

1 Chelsea (brown)
4 balmorals (2 brown 1 black 1 oxblood)
2 captoe blucher/derby (brown)
1 austerity brogue (blucher/derby in brown)
1 split/Norwegian toe (brown)

Small rotation by iGent standards but large enough for a solid choice on a daily basis.

My residual shoes, which I really should sell except for one pair of bespoke and one pair of Barker Blacks (which fit better than any other RTW shoe) consist of 3 balmorals and 2 blucher/derby models.

Next, I am planning on 1 pair of single monk-strap and 1 pair of double monk-strap boots just for variety and because iGents seem to detest monk-strap boots.

Anyone else favour only boots?

 

[Grand Potentate]

I approve the shit out of this thread.

Betelgeuse get your ass in here.

 

[Thruth]

I'm gonna need pics.

K. Once I get back to a computer.

 

[Betelgeuse]

I love boots! I have a limited collection but want to grow it.

I have:
1 Chelseas
1 shortwings (don't know how to call it)
1 chukkas

I used to have 1 pair of Dalton but they were small for me. I really liked those boots.

Pics!

 

[Thruth]

I love boots! I have a limited collection but want to grow it.

I have:
1 Chelseas
1 shortwings (don't know how to call it)
1 chukkas

I used to have 1 pair of Dalton but they were small for me. I really liked those boots.

Pics!

Nice, what are those Chelsea's?

 

[Betelgeuse]

Nice, what are those Chelsea's?

Thanks! Those are Santoni. Got them at a nice low price.

 

[Thruth]

Thanks! Those are Santoni. Got them at a nice low price.

I like those a lot. Generally don't like Santoni or Testoni but they can do nice boots.

 

[Grand Potentate]

I like those a lot. Generally don't like Santoni or Testoni but they can do nice boots.

Santoni gets a bad rap IMO. Their high end line is still ridiculously cheap, they fit well for Italian shoes, and are really well made. Betel has some more pics of those boots in the shoe thread.

 

[Thruth]

Don't have a picture of the Chelsea handy but it is an RM Williams Craftsman.

Other pics are crappy iPhone shots

Above L to R: G Kiss Paprika boot (from Fritzl), Edward Green Nevis Mahogany Country Calf on the 606, Saint Crispin's 402 chocolate calf on the classic last, Bostonian Chukka (chukked in garbage after 15 years), EG Galway Burnt Pine on the 82.

L: Vass captoe balmoral F last in oxblood

R: Vass austerity brogue on F in black

Sorry don't have my own pick for this one. Epaulet x Carmina balmoral chocolate suede & calf Forest last

No handy personal pic of this one either. Epaulet x Carmina balmoral black scotchgrain on Dainite

 

[Grand Potentate]

I just came.

 

[Thruth]

As for the upcoming monk boots, there is a new local cordwainer that I will try out - Fritzl of all people found him on the web. Does custom not bespoke. Takes measurements and adjusts an existing last. Like most of the best cowboy boot makers do it.

Double monk to go something like this, though still yet to decide on leather and colour.

Single monks to be along the lines of the EG Olney leather & colour TBD:

 

[Thruth]

I just came.

Wipe the screen

 

[Grand Potentate]

Wipe the screen

The screen's good. My pants, on the other hand....

Those monk chelseas are fucking sweet looking.

 

[Thruth]

The single or the double? The double is by Hidetaka Fukaya. Works in Florence. I'd love to have a pair of his.

http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/05/il-micio-brogue-tastic.html

 

[Grand Potentate]

I would never buy a Chelsea. Elastic is for schmucks.

Better to hide your cankles, no?

 

[Thruth]

I would never buy a Chelsea. Elastic is for schmucks.

Lol. Well it was either elastic or Velcro and if you got's Velcro on your shoes you might oughta wanna be using the Special Needs soap I just read about!

 

[Betelgeuse]

Those Carmina Balomorals make me drool. I really like that model or the cordovan ones are sweet!

Those St. Crispins of yours are to die too! Great collection mate!

 

[Grand Potentate]

Thruth Is the top pic in your post your set of 'working' boots and the bottom ones your 'dress' boots, allowing for the lack of shine and polish?

 

[Thruth]

Thruth Is the top pic in your post your set of 'working' boots and the bottom ones your 'dress' boots, allowing for the lack of shine and polish?

Naw, I am just negligent in polishing. The top pic was taken when I had pulled them out to polish. Snapped the shot to send to Fritzl. The other were snapped when new. The black chukkas went in the bin right after the photo.

 

[Thruth]

Those Carmina Balomorals make me drool. I really like that model or the cordovan ones are sweet!

Those St. Crispins of yours are to die too! Great collection mate!

Thanks.

Carmina makes an almost unbeatable boot in terms of looks, construction and price. I am on the fence about cordovan. Sometimes I get all hyped to get some but I always back off.

St. Crispin's are great but their cost have slowly crept up over time making them less of a good buy. But, unique looks plus a pegged and hand sewn sole set them apart from other boots.

 

[Russell Street]

I was unaware that monk strap boots existed, and I miss not knowing. The rest of these are more my style, although pebble grain with Dianite sole in black seems a bit odd.

Dress boots, despite having a slight resurgence, seem a bit old-timey to me. Not that this is always a bad thing, but it imparts a certain eccentricity or formality in the minds of others. It was a plunge for me to get the more rustic lug-soled AE Long Branch wingtip boot, just because it's such an oddity. I mean I didn't grow up seeing anyone wearing such things.

I really am unsure one would want to entirely do away with regular low shoes, particularly in warmer weather.

 

[Thruth]

I was unaware that monk strap boots existed, and I miss not knowing. The rest of these are more my style, although pebble grain with Dianite sole in black seems a bit odd.

Dress boots, despite having a slight resurgence, seem a bit old-timey to me. Not that this is always a bad thing, but it imparts a certain eccentricity or formality in the minds of others. It was a plunge for me to get the more rustic lug-soled AE Long Branch wingtip boot, just because it's such an oddity. I mean I didn't grow up seeing anyone wearing such things.

I really am unsure one would want to entirely do away with regular low shoes, particularly in warmer weather.

Boots have always been on the outside looking in IMO; they are for soldiers, cowboys, bikers and construction workers. From a dress perspective it does seem ancient because at least in North America you don't see it much beside in retro pictures. Beatle boots, 70's side zip dress boots. Only a small segment of people wear boots with suits or odd jackets. Boots her are big, clunky and decidedly casual.

The traditional Austrian winter dress boot is a Norweger in black pebble grain on a lug sole so the Carmina is not that strange from that perspective.

To many, a monk boot is an aberration; it corrupts the Chukka that it so closely is based on. Monks, despite their currently being in vogue, still are a rare site in most places. So a single monk boot is evil. A double is the devil incarnate.

The world is flat!

 

[walker]

The traditional Austrian winter dress boot is a Norweger in black pebble grain on a lug sole so the Carmina is not that strange from that perspective.

 

[Allen Smithee]

wow, monk strap boots combine my hatred of monk strap shoes and my hatred of chukka boots

 

[Thruth]

they are polarizing

 

[Russell Street]

So is the monk strap boot a newfangled concoction devoid of history?

Also, these speed hooks don't cause issues with catching on trousers or anything?

 

[Thruth]

So is the monk strap boot a newfangled concoction devoid of history?

Also, these speed hooks don't cause issues with catching on trousers or anything?

I don't have a sense of how old the monk boot design is. Florsheim, Hanover, Alden (still do) made such boots. EG & CJ have their models. So it has been around for at least 50 years, so they have a few years on their shoulders. As for the double, JL has the William II boot, but I don't know when that was concocted.

I never have problems with the speed hooks catching. It is the pull strap one always has to be conscious of.

 

[Betelgeuse]

I like the dubmonks boots. They might not be "classic" but I bet they look superb in a nice outfit.

 

[Thruth]

It is interesting with the recent explosion of monk-straps everywhere some think it is a "new thang". John Lobb, St. James has a single strap example in their bespoke collection and lord knows it is not like they follow anyone's current sense of fashion:

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/catalo...s_boots/Website_boots/Hilo/strap_hiloboot.htm

 

[walker]

It is the pull strap one always has to be conscious of.

they are an unnecessary plague. a cobbler can take care of this... ...never a problem with speed hooks. both are i-gent myths, though.

 

[Thruth]

they are an unnecessary plague. a cobbler can take care of this... ...never a problem with speed hooks. both are i-gent myths, though.

I agree that you don't need pull tabs. I can take or leave speed hooks. Sometimes I think if you don't have time to lace an all eyelet boot and want speed hooks maybe you should consider something other than boots, at least in the dress sense of things

 

[Dropbear]

Necroposting my love of this thread.

 

[Thruth]

Well it is already Zombie Wednesday for you.

Looked at an AE Dalton boot this PM. Had not seen one in the flesh before. I cannot say anything bad about them. Not blobby at all. A nice tie profile and conservative broguing. The only problem I had was that the colour was kind of light to be versatile across a wide spectrum of colours. I think it was walnut but was lighter than it looks online - more tan and closer to bandaid than I would have liked.

Shame they stocked only this one as the other colours are quite nice. Also had a leather sole and I'm currently seeking a more all weather sole which they do have with a custom order.

 

[Russell Street]

AE has a nasty habit of offering stuff in some light/medium brown and black. I want dark browns! I have the Dalton's coarser brother, the Long Branch, in what they call Dark brown. Maybe medium/dark. I used darker cream to bring it where I thought it belonged.
Did the tongue have a big seam where they pieced it from two pieces of leather? That was one of the downgrades I noticed on the replacement pair they sent me.

I'm ok with speed hooks.

I've noticed that, if you're the type that has laces come loose or undone throughout the day, that speed hooks lose their speed, as they must be undone and redone to retighten fully.

 

[Grand Potentate]

Well it is already Zombie Wednesday for you.

Looked at an AE Dalton boot this PM. Had not seen one in the flesh before. I cannot say anything bad about them. Not blobby at all. A nice tie profile and conservative broguing. The only problem I had was that the colour was kind of light to be versatile across a wide spectrum of colours. I think it was walnut but was lighter than it looks online - more tan and closer to bandaid than I would have liked.

Shame they stocked only this one as the other colours are quite nice. Also had a leather sole and I'm currently seeking a more all weather sole which they do have with a custom order.

The Dalton is available in a dark chocolate color. Its quite nice. Interesting that they moved the Dalton and the Fifth Street to an online only status.

They've also got some interesting new boots out. The Eagle County looks like a winner in the casual department.

 

[Thruth]

Yes the Dalton has several colours that would be nice including a bourbon and oxblood not to mention the dark chocolate, and chili.

The SA showed me the boots in the catalogue and there were some nice ones including the Eagle Country

The brogued Chelseas were hideous especially the one with the elastic insert that looked like Paul Smith stripey motif

 

[Grand Potentate]

Yes the Dalton has several colours that would be nice including a bourbon and oxblood not to mention the dark chocolate, and chili.

The SA showed me the boots in the catalogue and there were some nice ones including the Eagle Country

The brogued Chelseas were hideous especially the one with the elastic insert that looked like Paul Smith stripey motif

Yeah, they make some truly ugly shit. These are horrendous:

 

[Thruth]

 

[Dropbear]

I live in chelseas and 1k miles all week. I guess I have 5 pairs of chelseas if you count the work boots. I just ordered another pair, but I'm thinking I really should get something like the Longbranch for varity.

I like suede chuckas/ desert boots, but I'd need something like the AE's for the wide fitting - I'm just not sure they look much different to the cheap brands.

 

[Thruth]

Chelseas are great. If not wearing cowboy boots for ranch work, I wear RMW. I originally got Comfort Turnouts and the Gardener or something similar. The Turnouts were for the office but they were so comfortable I wear them all the time. Interestingly though, the leather really stretched. When I got them I'd almostnpull a ligament pulling them off. Then over time they really loosened up. Too much.

the gardeners are uncomfortable as shit. Rock hard and no give to the leather