Ask Someone Who Works With Clothing For A Living

thruth said:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/406200/sebastian-ward-official-affiliate-thread

New AV. The goal is to make shirts that rival $600 ones at a fraction of the cost.

Chorn Chorn get geared up for another photo expose!
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Wish them the best as with any new business that takes a chance but I'm concerned that looking at there product range, that the whole range of only 5 shirts is nowhere near enough to sustain AV fees.

http://www.sebastianward.com/collections/shirts

This is kind of where I feel SF should do more due diligence in researching AV's that apply, to make sure that they have the right range to sustain it rather than fumble for 3 months and decide it's not worth it like Shibumi did.
 
HenryC said:
...that the whole range of only 5 shirts...
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I think they are wise to limit options, although a limited edition flavor of the month would likely appeal to the SF crowd. I see it as one shirt in five colors. And if I read it right, five sizes.
 
I'm probably outside the market for this, but my previous snark was to the tennis and rowing photos, which seemed a bit twee, as does that watch over the cuff sillliness. I do agree that real live people wearing them gives a better sense of what's going on than some photo of a folded shirt.

The copy of $Y at $X price does come off a bit like those Stauer ads. Without some explanation of why the cost is less (or should not be more) this looks like mere setting of a reference price to create a perceived bargain.
 
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Grand Potentate Grand Potentate apologies if I've caused a bit of a stir here. Fwiw, I'm probably not in favour of a dedicated section for brands/vendors or whatever you want to call it, simply because I'm not here to sell or promote my stuff, I already pay SF plenty of money to do just that. In saying that I'm happy to answer any questions technical or otherwise people have about ties and tailored clothing in general. My experience in the industry is pretty wide including MTM fitting, sales, buying, management and now ownership in the past 16 years so I do feel I have a lot more to offer than 'I own a tie company'. Have a question on how shortening the back rise on trousers can clean up bagginess on the upper thigh? I can more than likely answer it.

It's your forum though, so over to you.
 
A working title:

This will be the place to talk shop with all the people who sell, make, craft, jerkoff with, and otherwise abuse pieces of clothing in an effort to eek out some sort of meager living.
 
Chorn said:
I'm not sure the quality of a shirt is as easily revealed as the quality of a shoe via a photo expose. Though at least we knot the method itself is trustworthy and relatively free of bias!
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Someone send this man a shirt so he can put it through the garbage disposal washer!
 
More bullshit is written about shirts than almost any other treasured iGent fetish item. They are underwear except for casual wear. If the visible bits are fine _ the collar and cuffs _the rest is just onanism in most cases. Singles stitches big yawn, spella fuckin shirred seams, split yokes, all indulgences. Remember you wash them, they wear out, they are mostly all covered up. Mature people figured this out prior to leaving home.
 
Jimmy Frost Mellor said:
More bullshit is written about shirts than almost any other treasured iGent fetish item. They are underwear except for casual wear. If the visible bits are fine _ the collar and cuffs _the rest is just onanism in most cases. Singles stitches big yawn, spella fuckin shirred seams, split yokes, all indulgences. Remember you wash them, they wear out, they are mostly all covered up. Mature people figured this out prior to leaving home.
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I agree with all this. I usually never take my coat so no one actually get to see my shirt.
 
+1. Does it fit & is it well made. I do not worry about any other embellishments.
 
Russell Street said:
Can someone explain the point of having a cuff button way at the top of the cuff? I think an old Brooks shirt has like that, and the corner always got folded back.
This Sebastian Ward boasts of
Slim Cuffs with a high buttoning point fit snugly against your arm, causing the opening to torsion against your wrist and stop cleanly at the wrist bone.
This allows for added sleeve length allowance to the wearer’s preference.
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I don't really follow this at all.
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Makes sense to me. Though the result would be the puffed sleeves you see on the models on the website. I guess those don't show with a jacket on
 
I'm utterly failing to see what the high button location has to do with anything. The sleeves are, well, excessively long and the cuff is cinching in to create an artificial stop rather than hanging to a stop?
 
Christopher Berry said:
High button placement AND fits against the skin (our cuffs are graded about an inch slimmer than normal, American style shirts)-> So the tension from fitting snugly around the forearm causes the rest of the cuff to torsion around the wrist and form a conical shape. I wear my shirts this way every day.

Keep in mind that optimal performance for any shirt starts to happen after about 3 washes, once migration has ended. We have factored this into our fit, accounting for about 1/8 to 1/4 inches of shrink that happen around our cuff circumference (with our interlining and fabric).
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migration?
 
Its pretty simple to understand - not new - the original Brooks OCBDs have the button at 1/3 or so of the cuff rather than 1/2.

Christopher - I don't see why RS etc don't get it -I thought they were just trolling not that they were stupid. It does now occur to me that both could be true.
 
Jimmy Frost Mellor said:
Its pretty simple to understand - not new - the original Brooks OCBDs have the button at 1/3 or so of the cuff rather than 1/2.

Christopher - I don't see why RS etc don't get it -I thought they were just trolling not that they were stupid. It does now occur to me that both could be true.
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Taylor, does your dad know you have been using his account again?

-Best

smiley_wink.gif


x.
 
I'm still not understanding what the single, high button achieves. A double button barrel cuff forces a parallel cylinder. My wrist bones are not particularly prominent. Is this all just about the cuff edge falling a bit further down on the hand?
 
So this all depends on the cuff having a certain degree of structure, right? The old Brooks shirt I had, which totally turned me off to the iconic BB OCBD, had a totally limp cuff and thus things didn't really pan out.
 
Christopher Berry said:
I hope that helps!
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Not really. I'm still struggling with this one. So what it looks like you've done is back the cuff up the arm so it no longer hangs over the hand to the thumb bone, and instead stops at the wrist, yet kept the fabric that would have remained in place. Also, made the cuff to tight that it restricts movement. So now it is effectively locked into place at the wrist and the extra fabric bunching around the wrist keeps it from sliding up and down the arm.

Where I'm lost is how does this work for showing shirt cuff under your jackets. You effectively lose out on a good 2-3" of length there. Do people who wear your shirts take much shorter jacket sleeves or do they just forgo showing cuff altogether?
 
So I assume the picture you posted is of the "narrower" option?

How does this work with jackets and showing cuff? Do you recommend your clients that choose this option to not worry about it?
 
Christopher Berry said:
High button placement AND fits against the skin (our cuffs are graded about an inch slimmer than normal, American style shirts)-> So the tension from fitting snugly around the forearm causes the rest of the cuff to torsion around the wrist and form a conical shape. I wear my shirts this way every day.
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This sounds very similar to the cuffs on my Borrelli shirts. The cuffs are fairly small - certainly smaller than quite a few of my other shirts - and they tend to open out in a slight cone shape around my wrist.

I actually really like it and I've tried to replicate it in made-to-order shirts but hadn't been successful until I started ordering made-to-order G.Inglese shirts via a friend of mine (no, not No Man Walks Alone, but a friend in Brisbane who stocks Inglese shirts).

I find the cuff style to be really comfortable and well-fitting.
 
Rambo said:
Not really. I'm still struggling with this one. So what it looks like you've done is back the cuff up the arm so it no longer hangs over the hand to the thumb bone, and instead stops at the wrist, yet kept the fabric that would have remained in place. Also, made the cuff to tight that it restricts movement. So now it is effectively locked into place at the wrist and the extra fabric bunching around the wrist keeps it from sliding up and down the arm.

Where I'm lost is how does this work for showing shirt cuff under your jackets. You effectively lose out on a good 2-3" of length there. Do people who wear your shirts take much shorter jacket sleeves or do they just forgo showing cuff altogether?
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I dropped into Sebastian Ward's AV thread on SF, during my bi-weekly spam/lulz check, and saw these photos in the thread:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/406200/sebastian-ward-official-affiliate-thread#post_7302848

LL


LL


See all that excess material above the cuff and the way the cuff looks like its strangling the wrist? That's what was throwing me off. It provides an odd image, to my mind, when wearing the shirt with no jacket.

Also, that watch over the cuff thing is freaking me out.

BTW - I don't know if you actually painted that photos but, if you did, that's fucking excellent. And if you didn't, don't tell me otherwise and ruin my opinion of your fantastic artistic skills.
 
i do hope SW succeeds. it must be a sign that i am getting old because when i see that sleeve design i cannot help but think of a 70's pirate shirt. i don't mean to be disrespectful. the length of the cuff plus the tightness does not resonate with me. i am with Grand Potentate Grand Potentate here in thinking it looks quite peculiar when not wearing a jacket. Christopher says the cuff can accommodate a 17 mm thick watch case because of the button placement which i assume allows the cuff to open wider to engulf the watch which will not happen with a tight traditional cuff/button placement. i would much rather choose a traditional cuff/button placement and have my tailor fit the cuff to my watch.

images.webp
 
Christopher Berry said:
Alas! I did not paint that. I was just retouching a small, flaking area of pigment.

The images where the cuffs are all the way down and buttoned, are really meant to be illustrative of the shirt, itself, and how it feels. Also I should mention that I purposefully disregard my own sizing suggestion and wear the longest of our sleeve lengths (36.75"):

A. Because I personally prefer the extra length for the comfort it affords
B. In order to highlight the shape of our sleeve pattern a bit more.

That being said, the visual effect of the added sleeve length is entirely lost under a jacket or sweater sleeve.

In the event that I'm not wearing a jacket, I generally will have my sleeves rolled up, folded over twice (not always, though). Another matter of personal preference.

I'll be sure to post some more images of how the shirt looks with the sleeves rolled up, as well. In case you need a more precise frame of reference, my biometrics are on each product page (I'm model B).
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Actually, as opposed to pics of folded up cuffs (which unless I'm missing some special thing should look relatively common), I'd like to see some more jackets with your shirts, especially people who are using the wrist strangler cuff.
 
Zhirinovsky said:
Your pictures look very homosexual and your hair looks very decadent.
Please provide pictures of REAL MEN wearing your shirts while performing MALE ACTIVITIES such as:
HUNTING, FISHING, BOXING
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Zhirinovsky these are most likely shirts designed for gays and Zionists. Or maybe even gay Zionists. I suspect it's Upr Qrutz new go to shirting brand. How can you expect them to behave manly?
 
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