SC has a figure that is very hard to fit and therefore to make look good.
Milk bottle shoulders, and narrow ones at that. A slim torso and a wider lower body. Sway back and relatively big butt.
A lot of the coats are overly fitted at the waist and narrow in the shoulders, but the coat still has to be wide enough at the hips. Both combined will give that pear shaped look (like the Sexton coat).
A&S avoided that problem by extending the shoulders and giving a bit more room in the chest and waist area, the silhouette looks more balanced (just like the Caliendo coat).
The Rubinacci coat is a total train wreck, the entire shoulder section is a complete fail, sleeves are terrible, front balance is way too long (see the flare and pull at the closing button? If it wasn't buttoned the fronts would swing open and away from the body).
I actually quite like the proportions and style elements of the Cifonelli coat, pity they messed up the shoulders. A thicker pad at his shoulder ends to lend some support might have avoided the issues we can see.
