Disagreeable Menswear Post Of The Day

Darth Bane

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So a marketing gimmick to go back to the tailor’s more often! 🤣🤣




Ok so not so much “how its supposed to be worn” but rather “how it was used back when it had a very practical justification”. Hankies being an accessory for the most part these days, I wouldn’t claim that wearing them in the breast pocket is wrong.

Not wrong per se, just the claims about them sometimes like 'you should always have a hankie in your pocket' or 'linen is more formal' and such. It's just made-up at that point, and the hilarity is that the authors of that BS have no idea.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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814
This does seem to be true. I emailed Christian about why he let Ivy Style be taken over by the idiot now in charge who is so antithetical to his values and got no response.
Christian had no values . He just thought it might be a good way of making a buck. Nothing wrong with making a buck and it can make suckers happy.
 

some bongo player

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44
Good question. I suspect it might be because it does appear to get views and it does have advertisers. Of course it's possible those advertisers are paying very little for the privilege. It depends how many views the site receives and, more importantly, whether or not the visitors to the site then patronise the companies that advertise. Chens appears to have made a living from IS for many years, although it's possible he has another source of income. No idea. We're not close.
 

some bongo player

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Christian had no values . He just thought it might be a good way of making a buck. Nothing wrong with making a buck and it can make suckers happy.

Values struck me as an unusual choice of word. But I think Chens' involvement with ivy was more than for career purposes - for him, and many of those who comment on IS, ivy represents social class, political beliefs etc. Indeed I often felt like the subtext was that the clothes are more than anything to show that one is a member of a certain section of society. Thus the annoyance and lack of comprehension when confronted by those who love such clothes for their aesthetic values.
 

RepeatingPattern

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Messages
48
Boyer is one of the few writers I actually enjoy reading. It’s a mixture of personal anecdotes and history, and while it’s obviously not canon, I enjoy hearing how clothes were worn in a different time and environment. He dresses well most of the time so I can forgive a few misses.
Simon can’t write terribly well, but I view him as an enthusiast, nothing more. His recent forays in casual clothing are a bit sad, as he clearly is new at this.
Christian is batshit crazy.
DWW’s articles are always interesting as he draws quite a bit from how clothes were historically worn. The fact that he’s never posted a picture of himself doesn’t bother me in the slightest.
David Coggins is insufferable but at least he seems to enjoy his life of fishing.
All these blokes need to make money, so I don’t see how penning articles for Drakes or another company makes their writing any better or worse. I just view it like an advertisement.
 

doghouse

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I believed that until I started reading this thread and realized that some people actually invent awfulness every day.

alonzo-mourning.gif
 

Pimpernel Smith

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8,740
https://www.cigaraficionado.com/author/g-bruce-boyer?&page_articles=1

The "legendary" articles Boyer wrote for Cigar Aficionado between 1994-1999 (basically pre- internet and pre-igent) can be found after the link.
I've read a few and they're pretty reasonable.
This “writers” as Bruce “voyeur” are faulty of the waves from the late 80´s into deep tackysm. They believe going to the office is like going to Rio de Janeiro´s Carnival, since most of them are lazy livers who have never, never worked on their obscure lifes.
As you know, I may offer some insight here into flamboyant displays of lavish and exquisite costumes, having been in the 2003 Carnival as a dastardy pirate representing the Caprishosos de Pilares school in the Sambodromo. Hint: it's quite embarrassing in front of 70,000 people.
The people on a Suit Supply budget who live vicariously through Crompers and most importantly want to be able to sound like they are part of the in-crowd, peppering their discussion of menswear with the right Pitti references.
They're a phenomenal Dutch brand, founded by some ex-Oger salespersons, the stuff looks rather tacky close-up, but they do always have someone strategically placed by a sewing machine and doing something that from afar might be mistaken for tailoring.
Could be - but then his astronomically over priced ‘collaborations’ always seem to sell out so it would seem he has a sizeable following of rich gullible sycophants!
They sell-out, as it's a unique collaboration for it is a one-off. I can't believe anyone sane would sell or buy a collobration article from him.
Crusty, our man with several studied poses, a pocket watch, a sadly deceased husband and a relationship with a young Korean chap all gone wrong.
None of these guys has the chops that comes from actually having a lifestyle that includes these clothes outside of their journalism and blogging.
Does anybody have a life now that covers the bases of expected classic dressing for men?
Do you really think that site is making money?
If it is, we're definitely in the wrong game...
 

Sammy Ambrose

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814
Values struck me as an unusual choice of word. But I think Chens' involvement with ivy was more than for career purposes - for him, and many of those who comment on IS, ivy represents social class, political beliefs etc. Indeed I often felt like the subtext was that the clothes are more than anything to show that one is a member of a certain section of society. Thus the annoyance and lack of comprehension when confronted by those who love such clothes for their aesthetic values.
I think that could well be true. It is most definitely the case for some of the IS old guard.

Interestingly, the British Ivy contingent on the TI 'dark side ' do not fit into that particular team of wode wearers. At one point it was, I estimate, tribal; but it was a tribe as far away from that of the wanabee wasps as one could get.
 

some bongo player

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When I mentioned the IS annoyance and lack of comprehension for those who love ivy clothes for their aesthetic values, I had TI primarily in mind. Particularly the British posters.

As ivy clothing was far more popular from the mid 1950s to later 1960s then it has ever been before or since, the style also attracts people who have a general affection for the aesthetics of that era. Something else that infuriated and disgusted Chens and his fans.
 

Streetlight

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36
I wonder what cool 1960s John Simons types would have made of people 'thrifting' fusty old stuff like top hats and galoshes?
 

Sauce

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502
I remember when Chens ripped Worried Man on IS. Really laid into him, pictures and everything. Comments weren't nice either. I left a comment myself, sticking up for him. I might have ripped the piss out of "Captain Retro" but I wasn't having Chens doing it in a nasty way.
 

some bongo player

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I missed that, I think. Considering that Chens looks ridiculous if not deranged in many of his shots, that's pathetic. And considering he's now got one of the most sartorially-challenged people online to replace him, it's beyond pathetic.
 

doghouse

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I remember when Chens ripped Worried Man on IS. Really laid into him, pictures and everything. Comments weren't nice either. I left a comment myself, sticking up for him. I might have ripped the piss out of "Captain Retro" but I wasn't having Chens doing it in a nasty way.

That's ridiculous. WM was such a good dude.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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814
I remember when Chens ripped Worried Man on IS. Really laid into him, pictures and everything. Comments weren't nice either. I left a comment myself, sticking up for him. I might have ripped the piss out of "Captain Retro" but I wasn't having Chens doing it in a nasty way.
WM always came across as a genuine good guy. He enjoyed what he wore and was confident in his choices. Chenners on the other hand was just trying to make some nickels and dimes as best he could.
 

Sauce

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That's ridiculous. WM was such a good dude.
Chens made a whole article around him, baiting his readers to leave nasty comments. Chens was vile, even hating on WM because he wore creme/wax in his barnet. I'm not a fan of that Ivy look but WM had damn good hair. I don't remember WM getting into that Darkside Vs Chens thing at all?
 

some bongo player

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Me neither. I assume simply by posting on TI, Chens considered him fair game. If WM hadn't been pure ivy then it might have been more understandable, but all WM's shots were textbook ivy, albeit of a 50s/60s vintage. What's funny is that the IS comments used to be full of people taking the piss out of TI posters, then when the IS Fb page took off people started posting shots and surprise, surprise, many of them were painfully bad and with little ivy content.

And things have actually deteriorated since then.
 

doghouse

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WM always came across as a genuine good guy. He enjoyed what he wore and was confident in his choices. Chenners on the other hand was just trying to make some nickels and dimes as best he could.

He is a genuine good dude. I still have a coffee cup he sent me.

Chens made a whole article around him, baiting his readers to leave nasty comments. Chens was vile, even hating on WM because he wore creme/wax in his barnet. I'm not a fan of that Ivy look but WM had damn good hair. I don't remember WM getting into that Darkside Vs Chens thing at all?

I never read Chenners blog becuase I've always though he was a complete cunt, so I missed that. Not surprised though. I've used my fair share of Royal Crown in my hair as well, WM and I are on the same page hair wise.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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Chens made a whole article around him, baiting his readers to leave nasty comments. Chens was vile, even hating on WM because he wore creme/wax in his barnet. I'm not a fan of that Ivy look but WM had damn good hair. I don't remember WM getting into that Darkside Vs Chens thing at all?
Was Worried Man our singing friend? His last album is particularly good. Saw him at the NSJF about six years ago now.
 

Sauce

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502
I think WM played the drums? I know he was big into his music. I thought its drums but I might be wrong.

I tried to find the article where WM has featured last night in the IS archives but it doesn't seem to be there. Lots of articles slagging off the Dark Side though. I had no idea Chens was so negitive towards Brit Ivyists. I'm not sure he gets that whole Ivy/Mod link thing. No reason why he should I guess being an American born after the event.

Remember when Chens featured his purple living room somewhere? Fuck, that was horrific.
 

Sauce

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You can see how Mods/Brit Ivyists and Chens were always going to be at loggerheads. Talk about Chalk and cheese.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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814
I think WM played the drums? I know he was big into his music. I thought its drums but I might be wrong.

I tried to find the article where WM has featured last night in the IS archives but it doesn't seem to be there. Lots of articles slagging off the Dark Side though. I had no idea Chens was so negitive towards Brit Ivyists. I'm not sure he gets that whole Ivy/Mod link thing. No reason why he should I guess being an American born after the event.

Remember when Chens featured his purple living room somewhere? Fuck, that was horrific.
The issue that Chenners had with British Ivy Leaguers , as Bongo has reminded us, is that because the Ivy style of dress is a uniform that identified a certain type of privileged American, with whom Christian and some other Ivy Style posters would like to be identified, the Brits were classed as userpers.
 

Sauce

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502
Which is kinda funny seeing as all "Ivy Style" consists of is borrowed European clothing styles with the shoulder pads removed. So who are the real usupers?

As I like to say..."its not Weejun, its Norwegian."

Besides, its only clothes. As the late great Jim used to say.
 

Otto

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135
Christian had no values . He just thought it might be a good way of making a buck. Nothing wrong with making a buck and it can make suckers happy.
I meant that Chens seems to identify with (or project) some sort of broader traditionalism. As someone of the same persuasion, I found it odd that he turned over his website to someone of the opposite values, whose first order of business was to antagonize and push away those such as myself and signal his "progressive" bona fides. It looks like a coup, not a simple change in editorship.
 

some bongo player

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I meant that Chens seems to identify with (or project) some sort of broader traditionalism. As someone of the same persuasion, I found it odd that he turned over his website to someone of the opposite values, whose first order of business was to antagonize and push away those such as myself and signal his "progressive" bona fides. It looks like a coup, not a simple change in editorship.
Are you referring to the fact that Chens seems to be a libertarian/right winger and the new guy is (supposedly) a liberal? If not then ignore this as I don't want to be the one to introduce politics.

If that is what you're referring to then I didn't realise the new guy's political values had antagonised anyone. I thought people would be more upset by the fact that his style of writing is torturous to read, he doesn't know shit about ivy clothing and he's a pompous, conceited arse. On the other hand, and to be fair, he's not malicious and petty like Chens could occasionally be. Incidentally, although the new guy may be a liberal, he seems to be friendly with right wingers and he banned me (a leftie by US standards) from the FB group.
 

Otto

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Are you referring to the fact that Chens seems to be a libertarian/right winger and the new guy is (supposedly) a liberal? If not then ignore this as I don't want to be the one to introduce politics.

If that is what you're referring to then I didn't realise the new guy's political values had antagonised anyone. I thought people would be more upset by the fact that his style of writing is torturous to read, he doesn't know shit about ivy clothing and he's a pompous, conceited arse. On the other hand, and to be fair, he's not malicious and petty like Chens could occasionally be. Incidentally, although the new guy may be a liberal, he seems to be friendly with right wingers and he banned me (a leftie by US standards) from the FB group.
There were a few who saw that IS went woke, so to speak. Anyway, I agree with all of the other reasons you talk about here.
 

some bongo player

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Maybe he or Chens deleted the article about BerkeIey Breathes because it received complaints from the anti-woke brigade. More likely, BB asked him to after their disagreement in the comments of a later article. Even more likely is that the new guy threw a tantrum over the aforementioned disagreement and for that reason deleted it. In my experience, he certainly doesn't take criticism well.

Incidentally I don't think new boy is that woke. In the disagreement I allude to above he mentioned how disadvantaged WASPs are.
 

some bongo player

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What do you get banned for? Calling for Brooks to be nationalised?

The new guy posted a link to his latest article and someone stated that it was very badly written. I agreed - and not in my usual tactful way. I had a debate with him a while ago in which I told him, in a sensitive manner, that he would benefit from further studying the topic of ivy clothing. My tact was in vain because as far as he's concerned he's an expert. For that reason, I gave up wasting my time giving him advice and instead bit my tongue for a while. I could only do that for so long, and by then I'd lost my patience, so my comments weren't very sensitive.
 

some bongo player

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To be specific: on reading someone say that his article was so badly-written as to be incoherent, I commented: have you ever read anything by him that doesn't fit that description?

(I didn't screenshot it so this is all from memory.)
 

Sammy Ambrose

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814
Chenners' new houseboy's writing lacks coherence for five main reasons, all of which should have been corrected in highschool. These are: 1. Not knowing how to paragraph; 2. Insufficient use of clear topic sentences; 3. Clumsy use of rhetorical questions; 4. Poor use of cohesive devices, such as adverbial phrases; 5. Not realising that looking like a clown does not make one funny.

Now, can we please leave this guy and all encourage Shooey to start his YouTube channel?
 
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