Heavy fabrics thread (Winter Daddies).

The Shooman

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Visited my MTM tailor (my casual trouser maker) and my bespoke tailor today. The topic discussed with both was heavy winter trousers. My 22.5 oz bespoke chocolate cords haven't even been made yet, and it has been a year. Covid has caused massive disruptions, but l will have them in the next several weeks by winter.

I went to my MTM trouser maker to order a grey herringbone Porter & Harding 18 oz tweed trousers to wear with various thick shawl cardigans in navy and burgundy. I like this fabric, and l also like that it makes a statement, and few men would have the guts to wear such trousers...but to me it is as manly as it gets. The only problem l have with 18 oz tweed trousers is that it is not near heavy enough for me during winter.
Porter & Harding 18 oz tweed herringbone grey.jpg Porter & Harding 18 0z grey  herringbone tweed 1.jpg

The 35 oz monster daddy
I was going to order a second 18 oz tweed trouser, but then l was shown the Dugdale `INVINSIBLE' 14 oz - 35 oz book. I laughed and said "you're kidding me, l don't believe it". I went straight to the two 35 oz fabrics and l ordered this bad boy: looks better on the proper side. This is a dream come true....have always wanted to experience the extremely heavy fabrics. I will wear this trouser with coats and thick shawl cardigans.

Thruth Thruth may be a BIG winter daddy, but l am going to give him a run for his money. I bet you have never worn 35 oz wool trousers `eh? Well...l am looking forward to it.
Dugdale 35 oz medium brown wool.jpg


I also like this for a future trouser, a dark brown herringbone 18 oz tweed for trousers. Probably not most people's taste for trousers, but l know what l like.
Porter & Harding 18 0z dark brown herringbone tweed 1.jpg


If you are into heavy fabrics, please feel free to share here. I am talking 18 oz and above. I asked my tailor to get the 25 oz Porter & Harding corduroy book also. When l do winter l wanna do it properly and wear extremely heavy trousers.
 
Dugdale's True Heritage Collection - INVINCIBLE

One of the most complete merchant collections of antique cloth, “Invincible” is a modern reimagining of one of Dugdale’s first ever collections: “White Rose Sporting and Riding Attire”.

Being of a naturally dense construction with warp faced symmetrical designs and clear cut heavy press finishes, these elegant yet robust “action” cloths crossed over readily as protective clothing for the new era of open cab motoring, motorcycling and open cockpit flying.


My one:

If l like it l might get a coat made out of it too. I may not do open cockpit flying or ride a motorcycle at the south pole, but it will serve me well when l am out and about in winter in Australia. I reckon Sator would have loved this. Looking forward to my extra heavy trousers, hopefully l love the weight.
 
Visited my MTM tailor (my casual trouser maker) and my bespoke tailor today. The topic discussed with both was heavy winter trousers. My 22.5 oz bespoke chocolate cords haven't even been made yet, and it has been a year. Covid has caused massive disruptions, but l will have them in the next several weeks by winter.

I went to my MTM trouser maker to order a grey herringbone Porter & Harding 18 oz tweed trousers to wear with various thick shawl cardigans in navy and burgundy. I like this fabric, and l also like that it makes a statement, and few men would have the guts to wear such trousers...but to me it is as manly as it gets. The only problem l have with 18 oz tweed trousers is that it is not near heavy enough for me during winter.
View attachment 43220View attachment 43221

The 35 oz monster daddy
I was going to order a second 18 oz tweed trouser, but then l was shown the Dugdale `INVINSIBLE' 14 oz - 35 oz book. I laughed and said "you're kidding me, l don't believe it". I went straight to the two 35 oz fabrics and l ordered this bad boy: looks better on the proper side. This is a dream come true....have always wanted to experience the extremely heavy fabrics. I will wear this trouser with coats and thick shawl cardigans.

Thruth Thruth may be a BIG winter daddy, but l am going to give him a run for his money. I bet you have never worn 35 oz wool trousers `eh? Well...l am looking forward to it.
View attachment 43222

I also like this for a future trouser, a dark brown herringbone 18 oz tweed for trousers. Probably not most people's taste for trousers, but l know what l like.
View attachment 43223

If you are into heavy fabrics, please feel free to share here. I am talking 18 oz and above. I asked my tailor to get the 25 oz Porter & Harding corduroy book also. When l do winter l wanna do it properly and wear extremely heavy trousers.
Very nice looking fabrics The Shooman The Shooman . But even in the Arctic I never wore such heavy cloth. Insulate the core and the legs take care of themselves with a good base layer and regular pants. I never wore wind/overpants in the Arctic unless I was going out on the land. And I walked to work most of the time.
I have a pair of West German surplus flannel woollen field pants that are 16 or 17 ounce that I wear for being outdoors and chores in winter. There is an extra layer of wool on the ass and knees so I can sit in the snow at -40 in them and have a smoke. I guess that makes them semi-32/34 ounce!

I typically wear 13 ounce cotton canvas pants for chores year-round with 200 gsm merino bottoms in the cold as a base layer to -30 or -35 C. Colder than that or with a wicked windchill, the German field pants or I just throw on a pair of Canadian military surplus wind pants over the canvas pants. Or some US surplus Patagonia fleece-lined soft shell pants.

For in the city in winter, several pairs of 16 ounce flannel and tweed dress trousers but most of my others are not as heavy and are in the 12 to 14 ounce range. Typically 12/13 ounce cotton/canvas for chinos/casual pants. 10 to 14 ounce moleskin.
 
For me this is an adventure where l get to experience something new. Hopefully l like the 35 oz, but if not, at least l gave it a go. I reckon wearing extra heavy tweed will be easy. It is also good to have trousers made out of a weight of fabric which is so rare these days. It is great that Dugdale re-introduced it's old vintage weights again; not everyone hangs around inside during winter, there are some really cold days when people need the extra warmth. People need more heavy fabrics because they look good and are warm. So many aussies freeze during winter because we don't have access to good winter clothes over here, and few know how to dress for winter when outside for the day, and l used to be one of those guys, but i decided about 5 years ago to make aussie winters my speciality, and l have really become a daddy of the winter here. Of course l don't hold a candle to Thruth Thruth , but l am leading the way over here. Plastic coats are not the way to do it, they are ugly and make too much noise. I want to do winter in style. Just received some more winter socks from Corgi too. Winter is a time to pull out all the great clothes...the classic winter ones that few people see these days such as the vintage 34 oz peacoat, the classic cashmere overcoat, the heavy cashmere shawl cardigans, heavy tweed trousers, thick wool socks, cashmere caps, and shell cordovan shoes. Sinking good $$$$ into a winter wardrobe was the best thing l ever did. It takes time to learn the ropes.

Thruth, that dachstein jumper is a fairdinkum rippa. I put a cashmere jumper and cashmere skivvy under it during the cold mornings, and it keeps me warm. I will buy another, they take a while to get made, so it will have to wait until next year. I might even get a third one.

kneeshuh kneeshuh that is a great link. Numerous potentials for winter coats and trousers there, and 27 oz too!

Thruth Thruth you wear lots on top, but not so much on the legs; surprised to read that. Good to read about your experience in the Arctic.

Personally l wear wool thermal underlays under my lined 18 oz tweed trousers, and they are still comfy with nice fire inside, so l reckon l will handle these 35 oz jobs no worries. Besides, l will be outside more on the weekend during winter, so l reckon these warm trousers will come in handy.
 
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I also agree that the key to staying warm overall is keeping the core warm.
 
Leaving aside the warmth (I agree that base layers are the key there) I’m curious to see how these super heavy tweeds look and drape.
 
For me this is an adventure where l get to experience something new. Hopefully l like the 35 oz, but if not, at least l gave it a go. I reckon wearing extra heavy tweed will be easy. It is also good to have trousers made out of a weight of fabric which is so rare these days. It is great that Dugdale re-introduced it's old vintage weights again; not everyone hangs around inside during winter, there are some really cold days when people need the extra warmth. People need more heavy fabrics because they look good and are warm. So many aussies freeze during winter because we don't have access to good winter clothes over here, and few know how to dress for winter when outside for the day, and l used to be one of those guys, but i decided about 5 years ago to make aussie winters my speciality, and l have really become a daddy of the winter here. Of course l don't hold a candle to Thruth Thruth , but l am leading the way over here. Plastic coats are not the way to do it, they are ugly and make too much noise. I want to do winter in style. Just received some more winter socks from Corgi too. Winter is a time to pull out all the great clothes...the classic winter ones that few people see these days such as the vintage 34 oz peacoat, the classic cashmere overcoat, the heavy cashmere shawl cardigans, heavy tweed trousers, thick wool socks, cashmere caps, and shell cordovan shoes. Sinking good $$$$ into a winter wardrobe was the best thing l ever did. It takes time to learn the ropes.

Thruth, that dachstein jumper is a fairdinkum rippa. I put a cashmere jumper and cashmere skivvy under it during the cold mornings, and it keeps me warm. I will buy another, they take a while to get made, so it will have to wait until next year. I might even get a third one.

kneeshuh kneeshuh that is a great link. Numerous potentials for winter coats and trousers there, and 27 oz too!

Thruth Thruth you wear lots on top, but not so much on the legs; surprised to read that. Good to read about your experience in the Arctic.

Personally l wear wool thermal underlays under my lined 18 oz tweed trousers, and they are still comfy with nice fire inside, so l reckon l will handle these 35 oz jobs no worries. Besides, l will be outside more on the weekend during winter, so l reckon these warm trousers will come in handy.
Can't believe you live in Australia...

Heavy fabrics here, a temperate maritime climate, is of very little use, a month or two if we get a bad winter. For the other 8 years out of 10, you don't need heavy tweed, thick jumpers and certainly not heavy weight pants. Those thin merino's from Uniqlo and cotton jumpers are ideal from November through to end of April. That's six months of windy, rainy and below 10C temperatures (in April it's already 17C mid-day), but not many days below freezing. Generally, a couple of times overnight. That's it.
 
^^

Pimpernel Smith Pimpernel Smith it seems like many on the forums echo your way of thinking, and l don't understand it, not even a bit.

I get 7 months of annual wear out of my heavy knitwear. I reckon l will be able to get 5 months of annual wear out of my 35 oz tweed trousers. Even in summer, sometimes i'll pop on a 4 ply cashmere jumper very early in the morning to keep off the chill.

Leaving aside the warmth (I agree that base layers are the key there) I’m curious to see how these super heavy tweeds look and drape.

I should take a picture when they are made.
 
I’m super curious about these 35oz trousers. The heaviest I have are 18oz (Thornproof) that I had cut for skiing, With one of those uniqlo thermal base layers, I was warm and cozy in -15c in Norway. I can’t imagine what twice that weight will get you. Bulletproof!
 
I wonder if they will even stay up comfortably. They're going to put your suspenders and shoulders to the test.
 
I think we can all agree The Shooman The Shooman has circulation issues.

I have a few 19oz and 17oz flannel trousers which I wear a few times in the thick of winter outdoors in the Nordics with OTC socks and tbh I find those a little uncomfortable indoors.

I will say though and this is common knowledge, it is easier to wear heavy trousers than it is to wear heavier coats/ jackets/ jumpers / shirts etc.

I have a truckload of thick and thin jumpers which barely see the light of day in cold season. I can comfortably wear 13-15oz trousers for 9-10 months of the year.
 
35oz for trou, in Oz, are you outta your tiny mind? That's coating cloth weight, and heavyweight coating cloth at that!

I wear shorts in the garden in the height of winter over here at Schloss Formby.

Some of you fuckaz are nesh!
 

I think we can all agree The Shooman The Shooman has circulation issues.

Nah, some blokes feel the heat, others feel the cold more.

I will say though and this is common knowledge, it is easier to wear heavy trousers than it is to wear heavier coats/ jackets/ jumpers / shirts etc.

Yes, easier to wear heavy trousers than to wear a 35 oz coat around. Even when l ordered my 23.5 oz cords they did not feel substantial enough [despite being solid], but as soon as l felt that 35 oz fabric l knew my dreams were going to come true. These 35 oz trousers are going to be heavy and thick, and that means comfort; they are going to be just how l have always wanted winter trousers. I am so glad l ordered them.
 
A great tweed book l got from watching Kirby's video:

Kirby's excellent video on tweeds.
 
A great tweed book l got from watching Kirby's video:

Kirby's excellent video on tweeds.


how are the trousers coming, Shooey? When can we see some pics?
 
how are the trousers coming, Shooey? When can we see some pics?

Got three pairs coming; 1 bespoke and 2 MTM. Still no fittings yet. Expect my MTM pairs early next month. I hope l can post some nice pics.

My bespoke are cut with a special high back and cut for braces, and a bit lower at the front. He is also going to add a special feature to the trousers, but l won't talk about that yet, l will keep it secret for now, but it will make these trousers completely awesome and comfortable. A trial pair of trousers are being made for a try on, he is doing it this way because the fabric is so heavy for the final product that he doesn't want to do any alterations on that cloth.

Sadly my MTM pairs are normal trousers cut to be worn with a belt. They don't know how to cut trousers for braces properly, and they are always unbalanced. Would have ordered them bespoke, but l liked the fabrics from my MTM place, and I would not have had the heavy trousers in time for Winter had l ordered them bespoke. My MTM place does a decent job on my custom trousers when cut to be worn with a belt.
 
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A great tweed book l got from watching Kirby's video:

Kirby's excellent video on tweeds.

Lovat weave a lot of Tweeds for other merchants too.
 
how are the trousers coming, Shooey? When can we see some pics?

Some bad news.....my 35.2 oz trousers will be delayed by months. Dugdale won't be selling the fabric to the public until mid July. :areyoukiddingme: By the time l get them winter will have ended. Was looking forward to picking them up this Friday, especially since the weather is really foul here right now. At least l will get my 18 oz gray herringbone tweed trousers this week.
 
Ended up cancelling my order for the 35oz tweed trousers. By the time they were made it would have been almost October (close to summer). Dugdale were really unorganised. Will definitely order those next year.

Picked up my grey herringbone 18oz tweed trousers. A nice relaxed fit, exactly how l like them. Warm and comfy. Might do pics on the weekend or something.

I also ordered these darkish/medium brown windowpane 18oz tweed trousers today. These should be lovely.
20220603_112902.jpg

The good news is l am also able to order trousers made from 25oz corduroy by Porter & Harding (proper winter cords). They don't have a book, you just order instead. Not sure what colour yet, but will probably order an olive or tan pair. Should find out next week what colours they have.


Late edit: currently sitting here in my 18 oz tweed trousers. They lack the weight and warmth l require. I can definitely become a 35oz man without a problem. Next year i'll be ordering 27 oz and 35 oz tweed trousers for winter. 18 oz is far too light for me.
 
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Ended up cancelling my order for the 35oz tweed trousers. By the time they were made it would have been almost October (close to summer). Dugdale were really unorganised. Will definitely order those next year.

Picked up my grey herringbone 18oz tweed trousers. A nice relaxed fit, exactly how l like them. Warm and comfy. Might do pics on the weekend or something.

I also ordered these darkish/medium brown windowpane 18oz tweed trousers today. These should be lovely.
View attachment 43733

The good news is l am also able to order trousers made from 25oz corduroy by Porter & Harding (proper winter cords). They don't have a book, you just order instead. Not sure what colour yet, but will probably order an olive or tan pair. Should find out next week what colours they have.


Late edit: currently sitting here in my 18 oz tweed trousers. They lack the weight and warmth l require. I can definitely become a 35oz man without a problem. Next year i'll be ordering 27 oz and 35 oz tweed trousers for winter. 18 oz is far too light for me.
What book are these 35oz behemoths?
 
My bespoke are cut with a special high back and cut for braces, and a bit lower at the front. He is also going to add a special feature to the trousers, but l won't talk about that yet, l will keep it secret for now
Shooey. The codpiece went out of style with normal people centuries ago.
 
The 2 heavyweight tweeds are showing high availability. Maybe shipping issues to Oz.

Why have you picked cloths of that weight? They probably wont hold a crease.


I do feel the cold, so for me a winter clothing collection is not complete without a couple of super heavy pairs of trousers for those really cold days. Hopefully they will hold a crease.

Many of those clothes show highly availability because they haven't been released yet. Dugdale won't be able to start supplying until mid July, but l wouldn't be surprised if it takes longer than that.
 
Some of my tweed trousers. Both 18 oz from Porter & Harding. Wonderful fabric. Fully lined, comfortable, and seem to last forever. The brown pair is my newest adventure.
20220722_122714.jpg

The 35 oz gamekeepers tweed and 25 oz corduroys will have to wait until next winter. Trousers for Spring and Autumn are being ordered now, between 12oz and 15oz,so they won't be mentioned in this thread. I only talk about heavyweights here. .
 
My 35.2 oz game keeper tweed trousers

These are tough buggers, and HEAVY!!! My favourite winter trouser due to the weight and warmth. I can also wear these in early Spring and Autumn. These are exactly the type of heavyweights l have been wanting all my life, these are very satisfying, and just right for me. They are heavy when walking, but not annoyingly heavy. They are fantastic when sitting down; finally l have nice solid warm trousers. 18 oz trousers are far too light for winter. Wearing 35oz tweed trousers inside with a fire going is a piece of cake, l could wear these 6 months of the year without a problem. I could even go 50 oz in trousers. For some people they might feel like drapes, but not for me. Love these.

Just a simple MTM trouser. It holds a crease. Look how thick they are. This is serious old school game keeper tweed.
Heavy 35 oz trousers 1.jpg


Compare to the navy 12 oz trousers, these are like the Titanic.
Heavy 35 oz trousers 2.jpg


How they drape when worn
Heavy 35 oz trousers worn 2 - fixed.jpg

Heavy 35 oz trousers worn 3 - fixed.jpg


Could be nipped in on the right side (looking at photo) thigh a bit, but they look good in person. the 2D image makes it look worse than it is.
Heavy 35 oz trousers worn 1 -fixed.jpg



Thick heavy boys
Heavy 35 oz trousers x1.jpg
Heavy 35 oz trousers x2.jpg
 
The pictures of these heavyweights do no justice to how nice these trousers really are. They are a classic olive green tweed and are stunning in person. These are a touch rough so they can attract bits and pieces on them, but overall it is not too bad. They are fully lined and not itchy at all.
 
The Shooman The Shooman you need a little pair of wheels on the bottom to carry them around they are so heavy. Careful you don't strain yourself.
 
The Shooman The Shooman you need a little pair of wheels on the bottom to carry them around they are so heavy. Careful you don't strain yourself.

They have the weight of a peacoat, no kidding. The staff lifted them up and were shocked at how heavy they were. Heavy jumpers and heavy trousers, that's the way l do things.
 
Big Trouser Daddy ™️

I think that may be the best post you have ever made. I loved it, and it describes the situation perfectly.

Indeed, l am `the' BIG trouser daddy...master of the big manly trousers, and what an honour it is. I would be willing to bet that Thruth Thruth hasn't even reached that level yet, he has still some way to go to rise to that level. But truth be told, l take trousers very VERY seriously, and it was only natural for me to climb the ladder quickly due to natural instincts. When you rock up with trousers like that everyone knows you're the big trouser daddy. You can tell a man from his trousers, but so many men mess it up and seem unable to climb to high levels. 35 oz gamekeeper trousers are a very powerful symbol of manliness, same goes with gunboats...big fat boys for big manly daddies.
 
I think that may be the best post you have ever made.

You’re welcome.

I loved it, and it describes the situation perfectly.

Indeed, l am `the' BIG trouser daddy...master of the big manly trousers, and what an honour it is. I would be willing to bet that Thruth Thruth hasn't even reached that level yet, he has still some way to go to rise to that level. But truth be told, l take trousers very VERY seriously, and it was only natural for me to climb the ladder quickly due to natural instincts. When you rock up with trousers like that everyone knows you're the big trouser daddy. You can tell a man from his trousers, but so many men mess it up and seem unable to climb to high levels. 35 oz gamekeeper trousers are a very powerful symbol of manliness, same goes with gunboats...big fat boys for big manly daddies.

You are definitely Big in the Trouser Department. 🍆
 
I think that may be the best post you have ever made. I loved it, and it describes the situation perfectly.

Indeed, l am `the' BIG trouser daddy...master of the big manly trousers, and what an honour it is. I would be willing to bet that Thruth Thruth hasn't even reached that level yet, he has still some way to go to rise to that level. But truth be told, l take trousers very VERY seriously, and it was only natural for me to climb the ladder quickly due to natural instincts. When you rock up with trousers like that everyone knows you're the big trouser daddy. You can tell a man from his trousers, but so many men mess it up and seem unable to climb to high levels. 35 oz gamekeeper trousers are a very powerful symbol of manliness, same goes with gunboats...big fat boys for big manly daddies.
Lovely trousers The Shooman The Shooman . I will never approach your level of trouser heft. Won't even try.
 
Lovely trousers The Shooman The Shooman . I will never approach your level of trouser heft. Won't even try.

Got them on tonight with a nice fire burning. Buying those heavyweights was the best decision l ever made. Loving the warmth and heft.

These could be good for trousers too. Coating fabric, but the kind of heft l like.

This is only 26 oz fabric, but it will be o.k.
image_2022-09-23_202346944.png


Here's a heavier boy, my type of weight. 31 oz. This would make a nice pair of trousers. Pity l can't go heavier.
Lovat tweeds.jpg




Tried on my 22.5 oz corduroy trousers today. Not heavy enough for my liking. After wearing 35 oz tweeds l am hooked, and now everything else feels too light. I want proper winter weight trousers, and only 35 oz does the job.

Looks like i'll have to order this one day. Fawn gamekeepers tweed trousers.
 
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