Home Decorating, Renovations & Remodeling

Kitchens tend to be tile or linoleum for water resistance. wood floors tend to he bad about mold and mildew, but are easier to pull back up - however if you cover it with a few coats of polyurethane you can probably make it work...but resale may be a hassle.
 
I put cork in my house. I'm not sure I'd recommend it. It's super comfortable on your feet, and looks great, but is definitely susceptible to moisture if you aren't mindful. The day to day stuff isn't a problem, but a big spill will kill it if you don't act fast.
 
you should turn off the main supply valves that go into the wall, plus the two valves that appear to T off the main supply lines and feed the filter cannister(s). Everything else feeds from those. fwiw the refrigerator line should also be connected to a valve like that.
Right, got that. But I want to cap them off so that I can remove the disposal, sink, and cabinet. Those feed lines will spring water if I turn the water back on, won't they?
 
Hmmm, those supply valves are there so you can replace faucet, sink, et al without cutting off the water to the whole house. there's no need to cap them unless you're not going to use them for the foreseeable future.
 
So the valve is turned off, it doesn't matter if the supply line that branches off before the valve closure is open?
 
Well if the line runs off a T before the valve, you've got to shut that valve off as well. from the picture, it appears there are four valves you have to shut off.
 
Now, those valves, they are one piece with the inlet at the end opposite the handle, and the outlet comes off at a 90 degree angle.
 
So it seems there's mold all throughout the innards of the house. Looks like we're going to have to file an insurance claim.
 
Pics:

Master bath shower bath drywall. Was hidden by tiled walls
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Utility room
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2nd bath. This was hidden by the vanity
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Indeed. We have the home owners insurance involved now. Definitely need to be remediated.
 
Well, the upside is that the insurance should also cover the reno.
 
Well, the upside is that the insurance should also cover the reno.
Well, that's not quite so cut and dry. They only cover $5k on this policy for mold. And there is a $2.5k deductible. So there have to be separate claims put in. I'm trying to say that I demolished the bathrooms looking for the mold, thus the bathrooms need to be put back together.
 
How about recourse against the seller and seller's policy?
House was a short sale and was bought "as is". It was inspected before hand though. We're going to talk to the Satan's real estate/probate lawyer about it.
 
No no, I know I have to use silicone around the gap. How do I bridge the gap on the top and bottom, where its not butt up against the stucco, so that the silicone forms a seal? If I just pipe it around the top it'll fall through somewhat. See the last pic.
 
Before I got into grinding the wall down, I'd look at sealing w/ silicone. Could easily fill the gap. If you want cosmetic gucci-ness, do a line of silicone flush with light, then get some non shrink exterior trim caulk and a caulk bead tool to go over it for a nice neat appearance, then paint with same color as wall. Will look like a pad especially made on wall for light. Or use black caulk to match light.

If you are overly concerned with the gap, you could put a shim in like Jim-dog says before silicone.
 
My plan was just to go with Silicone but I thought that the gap would be too large to fill properly, as in it might leak down through the seam. But if you guys think it will work I'll pop my silicone tube in the caulk gun and get to it.
 
Gap's too wide imho. I've used some foam fillers in the past - both the spray - type and the coiled rolls of pre-fabricated foam. Anything to backstop the silicon.
 
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finally some new sheet rock at Doom hQ. Along with siding, new soffits, flashing, shingles (patchwork) and insulation and some other stuff.
 
Why not just build up with some stucco? Or Builders Bog, dunno what it's called over there, but it's easy to work with and if you mix it right can be worked like balsa wood before it hardens then it can be worked much like normal wood anyway. Then just seal with a bit of the old silicon.
 
BTW, now that we're getting this done up, MRS DOOM wants to re-face the cabinets, paint all the walls a different color, and start discussions on piping in gas for a new cooktop. The woman has no patience at all, whatsoever. I'd suggest a complete tear-down and re-build, but she might actually take me up on that and start ordering the explosives.
 
The gas range is a must.

You may not want to show Mrs Doom I said that though.
 
I want the gas range, but I don't want the major plumbing or shuffling it would take to get that done.
 
I was fortunate that my range and furnace are in the same area, so it was one punch in the back wall to feed them both.
 
View attachment 4526 finally some new sheet rock at Doom hQ. Along with siding, new soffits, flashing, shingles (patchwork) and insulation and some other stuff.
I was in an Electrical Trades warehouse the other day and I see the latest rage is power points with built in USB charger slots. I didn't know they existed. Great idea.
Sometimes I feel out of touch.
 
Rustler - some of us have to work for a living.
I don't get to stay in Hilton Hotels.
 
They are certainly a good move, I need to put one in the kitchen where I charge my phones.
 
Which reminds me - I have to re-wire a light soon and fix up a few other electrical odds and ends when I have a spare weekend.
 
Talking about kitchen cupboards has anyone tried that paint stuff you can put over laminate doors, bench tops etc and spruce up?
 
I hear some good reports about it and have heard it's easy to use. Supposed to put a proper surface on. Not just paint over it. I can't pin down if it's cost effective. My mate reckons that with a bit of builders bog it with be possible to rejig and old chipboard kitchen without dismantling existing cupboards and back splash etc.
 

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