Agreed on all counts. But it seems that we're fast running out of new content.
Most menswear bloggers do this as a sideline. Some have made it a part of the job that pays the bills but Blue Loafers and Shoegazing to name but two, have day jobs. I have no problem with this.
However, how many of them have the financial resources to step up their reviews by acquiring top tier RTW or bespoke? Plus, that has already been done. Do we need another glowing review of a pair of Aubergine G&G shoes?
They have to establish some credibility. They do not necessarily have the knowledge of the menswear industry or fabrication. They write reviews of things that iGents covet and want to acquire. Their knowledge base is no different than yours and mine: gleaned from the pages of forums, other blogs and fluff pieces strewn across the interwebz. In fact, we may have more knowledge based on how much we have actually dabbled in bespoke. Sometimes they will visit a factory and make a report. "I saw some machines and people doing things which resulted in this beautiful pair of ________ ( sotto voce mode engaged) which has kindly been grafted to me in exchange for this glowing review.
Now, when making sweeping generalizations, one is apt to be wrong and there are blogs that are not all about graft. Orgetorix
www.thriftygent.com blogs about thrifting high end. No conflict of interest from graft here.
Some like JeffreyD
http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.ca/?m=1 because of his job in the industry actually write in depth about the technical aspect of creating garments. This is more like investigative journalism.
But back to the others. To separate themselves from the pack, they need to come up with "unknown" makers. That is, unknown to the general iGent. Score one of these unknown makers and you suddenly have some credibility and an angle. But you still have to acquire the product from the unknown to review and unless you have a really good day job, you don't have the resources to spend thousands on acquiring things to review. So you do a deal. Publicity in exchange for graft. Simple really. Some, as mentioned above, do not keep the product sometimes, the product comes looking for you (Passaggio Cravatte). Still, as long as their is disclosure if conflict of interest, no problem exists.
But the grander problem is that these blogs are rarely objective and rarely apply any type of balanced evaluation. They are the equivalent of advertising. Everything is good all of the time because no one is going to buy negative advertising and the graft must keep rolling in to stay fresh, current and on top of the heap - as well as looking stylish and sexy.
Some bloggers state this. Military Morons, which I read, says he reviews only those things he likes and there won't be bad reviews, just some suggestions on how to improve the product.
So in the end there is no balance, honesty, or ethical standards save for a minor few blogs.
When the PC scandal blew up, there was a roaring silence and indifference across the blogosphere.
So, to do it right, have disposable income to buy what you need to report objectively on products be they good or bad. Employ journalistic integrity and morals. Stand up for what is right and rely against what is wrong. Be an iconoclast. Break down myths. Educate and entertain.
That shouldn't be so hard. The playing field is wide open.
