Jacket: Sleeve Buttons

Betelgeuse

Betelgeuse

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Hi everyone!

I need some of your help on this. But first the background. I bought a cotton jacket (on April Chorn Chorn , so I didn't even know about the NPC :) ) and the sleeve buttons are undone so that my tailor can make them. But around here most "tailors" aren't real "tailors" they are more like "alterations tailor" so they only know the basics, thus my "tailor" he doesn't know how to make the buttonholes by hand. I'm glad he told me that honestly and not trying to do them are probably ruining my jacket.

So to not make the story longer, I saw this pic of an Isaia SC with only one button and I thought this might be a good choice, get it with only one fuctional button, it will be cheaper cuase only two are needed instead of 8 and I don't think it looks bad at all, IMO.

Then again, consider it's a cotton SC so it's more casual than business.

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Harveybirdman said:
I think that looks fine. But turning a four buttonhole sleeve into a one buttonhole sleeve will encounter other problems. Such as the length of slit at the end of the sleeve, it may be too long for only one buttonhole.

Buttonhole.
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Oh I see, yes you are right.

Here are some pics of the jacket, the tailor is doing some basic alterations, so I don't have it with me. As you can se the sleeves are not finished. But if I got it right, what you are saying Harveybirdman is that if I undo de button, then the sleeve will go up all the way until it reaches were the fabric unites?

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Harveybirdman said:
Buttonhole.
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:iseewhatyoudidthere-27:
 
I'm kind of torn on that look. The Isaia is definitely sharp, but I don't know if it would look right on that jacket. Definitely two kinds of looks there. Have you checked around the Zocalo? There were a few pants sellers and tailors who sold some high end cloth. Maybe they know of someone for you? Or you could hop the Metro and see them in person.

I'd hold off until I could find the right person to do it. Nothing worse than getting work done and then being unhappy with it.
 
ter1413 said:
Don't like the 1 buttonhole. Just my $.02.
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Thanks!

Rambo said:
I'm kind of torn on that look. The Isaia is definitely sharp, but I don't know if it would look right on that jacket. Definitely two kinds of looks there. Have you checked around the Zocalo? There were a few pants sellers and tailors who sold some high end cloth. Maybe they know of someone for you? Or you could hop the Metro and see them in person.

I'd hold off until I could find the right person to do it. Nothing worse than getting work done and then being unhappy with it.
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That's another option but still not knowing the person would be tought to trust them the job. I asked one tailor that studied at Kiton, but he told me that making a buttonhole by hand takes him 30 min per buttonhole... so, since he told me that I think he would charge me a lot. I know of another tailor but don't know how much he would charge. I'm guessing that if the 1 buttonhole is not the option maybe 3 could work. Cause bear in mind that the jacket cost me $199 (the jacket is Isaia) shipped to Mexico... if they charge me $150 for just the buttonholes... well, I might pay them but I will not be that happy.
 
Betelgeuse said:
That's another option but still not knowing the person would be tought to trust them the job. I asked one tailor that studied at Kiton, but he told me that making a buttonhole by hand takes him 30 min per buttonhole... so, since he told me that I think he would charge me a lot. I know of another tailor but don't know how much he would charge. I'm guessing that if the 1 buttonhole is not the option maybe 3 could work. Cause bear in mind that the jacket cost me $199 (the jacket is Isaia) shipped to Mexico... if they charge me $150 for just the buttonholes... well, I might pay them but I will not be that happy.
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Fuck that. If it only cost you $200 then just get non-functional sleeves.
 
Rambo said:
Fuck that. If it only cost you $200 then just get non-functional sleeves.
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Hahaha! That's why the idea of making only one. I already wrote to the other tailor to see how much he charges.
 
Nothing is worse than a tailor who claims he can do something which he unable to do.
 
jrd said:
They're not mainline Isaia. Still nice quality, but I'm pretty sure they're fused and made from more generic fabric.
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It's full canvas and has a decent amount of handwork. It's Isaia for Saks Fifth Avenue, Spoo and stitchy have some of those too. :)
 
jrd said:
Did you pinch test it yourself? the saks jacket I had was fused, and don't see how they would offer at full canvas at that price point
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Yeap. Well, I didn't buy it from the store, I'm guessing the jacket have a couple of years, I really don't know how Spoo get those items, that's the point of his business. :)

I've been told by some Sales Assistants that the jackets from this collection (Saks Fifth Avenue) at least here in Mexico are being done by Zegna. They have Loro Piana fabrics and they are full canvas. The cut it's not the most flattering but I think they are decent, I think.
 
Betelgeuse said:
Yeap. Well, I didn't buy it from the store, I'm guessing the jacket have a couple of years, I really don't know how Spoo get those items, that's the point of his business. :)

I've been told by some Sales Assistants that the jackets from this collection (Saks Fifth Avenue) at least here in Mexico are being done by Zegna. They have Loro Piana fabrics and they are full canvas. The cut it's not the most flattering but I think they are decent, I think.
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Since when does Zegna manufacture for either Isaia or Saks???
 
jrd said:
Betelgeuse Betelgeuse

I'm sorry man, but they are not full canvas. Be careful not to conflate the Isaia garment tag and full canvas construction. They build things for various stores to different specs.

See this thread:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/275819/isaia-for-saks-5th-avenue/0_50#post_4984172

When I pinch tested mine, the fabric was glued to the middle layer. So there can be no free floating canvas

If Saks was selling full canvas Isaia suits under the Saks house label, there would be no reason for them to carry the Isaia mainline. But they do.
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:milk-68: So I was cheated! :ohshit-23: That's bad. But well it's a cotton SC I plan to use for casual dressing. Thanks mate!
 
jrd said:
Not cheated. I don't think Spoo said full canvas anywhere in his site.
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I assumed that by saying "a lot of handwork" at least half-canvas was in play. But meh, it's still a cool jacket. :)
 
Rambo said:
Still, $200 for a jacket from Isaia is a relative bargain.
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Yup. I will post pics of the other Isaia that came in, in the same package. MTM for another guy, but fitted me quite nicely. :smuggrin:
 
jrd said:
My qualifier two posts back was it has to be full canvas/on par with the mainline
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True, but doesn't that hold for half-canvas and fused as well, both of which they've carried along side Corneliani lines that are the same?
 
LKP said:
1 button on the sleeve is the only option for sportscoats imo
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Is the one-button regular sized or larger? I've seen both. I have one odd jacket with two sleeve buttons; I like that. Would consider one. Or three.

Why do you prefer one?

LH won't do one-button sleeves
 
Thruth said:
Is the one-button regular sized or larger? I've seen both. I have one odd jacket with two sleeve buttons; I like that. Would consider one. Or three.

Why do you prefer one?

LH won't do one-button sleeves
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they are standard-sized... might take some pics later on....
 
LKP said:
they are standard-sized... might take some pics later on....
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some of my sportcoats
somebody like IS might call it SLEEVE PORN
 

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LKP said:
some of my sportcoats
somebody like IS might call it SLEEVE PORN
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Nice. Is that your choice or your tailor's? Who suggested one button in the first place?

Solito's one button
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LKP said:
i saw it on a jacket in his workshop some years ago... he told me his OLD CLIENTS prefer it that way. that convinced me
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Sometimes I look at one button and like it, other times not. But in reality, no one pays attention to it so why not do it
 
LKP said:
thats interesting.... my old taylorze told me he does 1, 3 or 4 buttons
two might be more inglese
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Could be. I honestly have all 3 button myself presently, I just like the two. I need to get some two button ones.
 
there are many opinions that vary between tailors and their backgrounds. The two-button and one-button is interesting because you don't usually see them. Two-button was big in trad previously with the 3B suck suit/jacket
 
Thruth said:
there are many opinions that vary between tailors and their backgrounds. The two-button and one-button is interesting because you don't usually see them. Two-button was big in trad previously with the 3B suck suit/jacket
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Yep. That probably informs my choice some. I always lean Ivy with jackets mentally.
 
I'm not down for one, that's what all my shirts are. I like 3 though.
 
Cuff buttons are probably like martini olives - tradition demands an odd number...

...But seriously, I always thought one - large - button set about 3/4 of an inch up from the cuff looked good on more casual, relaxed, sack-style jackets; the regular 3 or 4 smaller ones look better with more structured (I guess formal) SCs / suit jackets.
 
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