Kirby Allison appreciation thread

Nothing like a casual white shirt with navy trousers (casual fabric) and black shoes loafers or burgundy shoes.

Casual white shirt = casual cloth, 2 or 4 flap pockets on the front, maybe even some epaulettes, and some pleats on the shirt. Even a simple button pocket works, but the key is to have 2 casual pockets on the front of the shirt.
Interesting, I suspect you mean indigo jeans by a navy casual trouser fabric no? Good choice on the shoe colours.
Question: Have you tried navy corduroy slacks and would you recommend them instead of say olive green cords?

I'll have to look for a patched flap pocket white shirt next Winter. Do you know of any good makers?
The design of that shirt does sound quite good, more of an open collar shirt right, with a point collar of average length?
 
Interesting, I suspect you mean indigo jeans by a navy casual trouser fabric no? Good choice on the shoe colours.

quality cotton trouser fabric = casual fabric.
White Guayabera Shirt for summer or sunny warm day.

The shirt should be long sleeved with a pajama collar like this, but it needs to fit properly and not like tents as seen here:

You wear that in a good fabric, fitted right, with the right type of shoes and great cotton trousers. Wow.
Guayabera - bush.jpg

You can even wear a hat with it and pull it off.
Guayabera shirt 11.jpg

See the four pockets. Still cheap looking and short sleeved with collar all wrong.
Guayabera shirt 5.jpg

Shirt below has four pockets, but too big and business collar shirt which destroys the style. Guayabera shirt 2.jpg

The point is, use a casual styling for a white shirt, and don't wear a white business shirt for casual styling. Add pockets etc, you don't have to look like a bus driver if you do it right.

Use a casual 3 ply airy cotton, not some fine fabric normally used on business shirts.

Question: Have you tried navy corduroy slacks and would you recommend them instead of say olive green cords?

Yes, navy corduroy works better with shirts. Hard to make olive work with shirts, but olive goes great with burgundy cashmere knitwear.
I'll have to look for a patched flap pocket white shirt next Winter. Do you know of any good makers?
The design of that shirt does sound quite good, more of an open collar shirt right, with a point collar of average length?
Forget point collars for the shirts above, but maybe think about an open neck shirt with some wool and cashmere in it for winter to pair with cords. Thing is...shirts are very limited in the shops, you would have to get it made. If it is too expensive, find a MTM program online.
 
quality cotton trouser fabric = casual fabric.
White Guayabera Shirt for summer or sunny warm day.

The shirt should be long sleeved with a pajama collar like this, but it needs to fit properly and not like tents as seen here:

You wear that in a good fabric, fitted right, with the right type of shoes and great cotton trousers. Wow.
View attachment 42480

You can even wear a hat with it and pull it off.
View attachment 42479

See the four pockets. Still cheap looking and short sleeved with collar all wrong.
View attachment 42478

Shirt below has four pockets, but too big and business collar shirt which destroys the style. View attachment 42477

The point is, use a casual styling for a white shirt, and don't wear a white business shirt for casual styling. Add pockets etc, you don't have to look like a bus driver if you do it right.

Use a casual 3 ply airy cotton, not some fine fabric normally used on business shirts.



Yes, navy corduroy works better with shirts. Hard to make olive work with shirts, but olive goes great with burgundy cashmere knitwear.

Forget point collars for the shirts above, but maybe think about an open neck shirt with some wool and cashmere in it for winter to pair with cords. Thing is...shirts are very limited in the shops, you would have to get it made. If it is too expensive, find a MTM program online.
Thanks for the advice Shooman these shirts look great.
Camp collars I think is a term that describes a flat laying collar that doesn't accommodate a tie such as these ones.
Along sides safari shirts these are some of the best decidedly untucked shirt/jacket hybrid shirts I've ever seen. Defiantely a smart choice in moments when it's too hot to wear a coat and tie or even a shirt tucked in.
Looks good with the hat, certainly a look I'll have to consider investing in since I only own baseball dad caps so far for sun protection.
 
Shooman and everyone else what are your thoughts on white pique shirts?
Bruce Boyer vouches for them, but he has to shill for his line of Marol shirts. Also I've read about Chris Modoo vouching for them as a versatile shirt.
I have one off-white long sleeved button down collar shirt in pique with a squared hem that I wear either open collar or with a tie, but also sometimes untucked.
It's a formal colour with a leisurely cloth. I also think the white pique shirt works well with the ethos of the longue suit since the shirting cloth has a bit of stretch due to the weave, which makes it really comfortable.


 
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Depends what kind of ‘pique’ you mean.
There’s the kind that Boyer’s shilling which is like the front of a tuxedo shirt, or there’s the kind that Kamakura does which is a very casual button down made of the kind of cloth more regularly used for polo shirts. The latter likely has more utility in todays more casual world. Could be worn with a tie in a sort of Carl Bernstein shabby look, or worn open necked making an outfit a notch or two more formal than wearing a polo or popover shirt.
 
Depends what kind of ‘pique’ you mean.
There’s the kind that Boyer’s shilling which is like the front of a tuxedo shirt, or there’s the kind that Kamakura does which is a very casual button down made of the kind of cloth more regularly used for polo shirts. The latter likely has more utility in todays more casual world. Could be worn with a tie in a sort of Carl Bernstein shabby look, or worn open necked making an outfit a notch or two more formal than wearing a polo or popover shirt.
I meant the latter, I always thought that cloth was multi purposed and was also used for Tuxedo shirts..

Is a pop over shirt not more formal then a coat front placket shirt? I know that the coat front placket style was only "Introduced in 1871 by registered British Shirt maker Brown, Davis & Co. Known as the 'figurative Shirt,' this revolutionary design made great strides in achieving a close and comfortable fit. By the 1890s men's clothing in general had become more tailored and fitted." - an excert from How to Read a Suit a guide to changing men's fashion from the 17th Century to the 20th Century by Lydie Edwards.

The 'figurative shirt' doesn't strike me as completely in line with the ethos of the longue suit since it doesn't comply well with a waistcoat to have another row of buttons underneath a that of the waistcoat since it doesn't allow the waistcoat to sit as flat and flush against the stomach...
It also looks worse with a short tie when worn sans waistcoat, since the negative space under the tie is bifurcated by the placket and buttons. Plus it puddles around the waistband area worse when bloused.

So my question is, by what precedent is a 'figurative shirt' more formal then a pop over shirt?
 
Some interesting details on our mate Kirby. He is doing well.

Will update this thread with a few of his better videos another day.


That kind of reports are called publireports ( and some call them "phelattios") since clearly he might have paid for that covered publicity.

By the way it seems this numbers are wrong and reversed "Kirby Allison Net Worth has been gaining the massive boost. Average earnings from advertising on the channel suggest that Kirby Allison yearly earnings are around $30K. That said, the Kirby Allison monthly earnings are around $360K."

Yearly earnings 30.000 but monthly earnings are 12 times more= 360.000?


How is that?

Kirby Tackyson? More bad taste webs.
 
Some interesting details on our mate Kirby. He is doing well.

Will update this thread with a few of his better videos another day.
Please don't...

Whilst he's a pleasant fellow, I [can't] cope with the earnestness.

That said, I did enjoy his interview with Tom Mahon, but only because Mahon did much of the talking.
 
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Please don't...

Whilst he's a pleasant fellow, I [can't] cope with the earnestness.

That said, I did enjoy his interview with Tom Mahon, but only because Mahon did much of the talking.

^^^
As a businessman in menswear, I find Kirby very interesting. He has spread his web worldwide to all types of famous makers, and his videos are going to make him a household name in highend menswear. His worth and warehouse say a lot about the way he is doing things, he seems very successful in getting people to come to his site. So many couldn't do what Kirby has done; he has created a decent sized business, an image, and all types of makers allow him to film. He may not know a lot, but he deserves credit for what he has done.
 
Please don't...

Whilst he's a pleasant fellow, I [can't] cope with the earnestness.

That said, I did enjoy his interview with Tom Mahon, but only because Mahon did much of the talking.

That Thomas Mahan interview was fantastic. Other good interviews are ones with:

- Dominic Casey (some of the best)
- Tony Gaziano
- Nick Foulkes
 
^^^
As a businessman in menswear, I find Kirby very interesting. He has spread his web worldwide to all types of famous makers, and his videos are going to make him a household name in highend menswear. His worth and warehouse say a lot about the way he is doing things, he seems very successful in getting people to come to his site. So many couldn't do what Kirby has done; he has created a decent sized business, an image, and all types of makers allow him to film. He may not know a lot, but he deserves credit for what he has done.
He just waffles inanities so that he can drag out the length of the video. The longer the video, the more adverts he can fit in, the more adverts, the more revenue.

Let's spend 30mins discussing the beauty of the Chittleborough & Morgan peak lapel....Now don't get me wrong, the C&M peak lapel is a thing of beauty but I don't need a 30min video segment to explain that to me...

Plus, at the end of the vids where he goes to the pub he seems to be drinking shandy!?!? That's a big, big no-no....
 
What's your view on Foulkesy?

He is quite a likeable chap. What you see is what you get. He is the genuine article, and he definitely knows what he likes. I think his style is very good too, it is how l would dress from the ankles up if l could; the tweeds and patterns he wears is everything l like the most. I don't think he is eccentric either, he is very switched on. He is a man who would be very interesting to talk to.
 
Plus, at the end of the vids where he goes to the pub he seems to be drinking shandy!?!? That's a big, big no-no....


Even so, Kirby does seem to be accepted by the high profile makers. Many could tell him to get lost, and they would still have enough clients to keep them busy, but many have welcomed him into their lives in a way no-one else has ever been allowed to. He is obviously doing something right.

l am surprised Lobb and numerous Savile Row tailors didn't tell him to get lost, but they didn't, however C&J told him no. Overall he does done very well.

Kirby talks and thinks very basic when it comes to clothing, but I think that suits the audience he is targeting (a basic audience into good clothes who are not knowledgeable). His thinking on shoes is also very basic, but it is better that way because others will be able to understand things better.
 
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He is quite a likeable chap. What you see is what you get. He is the genuine article, and he definitely knows what he likes. I think his style is very good too, it is how l would dress from the ankles up if l could; the tweeds and patterns he wears is everything l like the most. I don't think he is eccentric either, he is very switched on. He is a man who would be very interesting to talk to.
 
Even Kirb is geeting in on the Platty Jubb...


Kirby obviously doesn't realise that in British Colonial America the insane were auctioned off as farm labourers or driven from town. It was not a great place for the likes of Kirb. What an oddball he is to applaud the representative of a family that probably treated his so cruelly.
 
Kirby obviously doesn't realise that in British Colonial America the insane were auctioned off as farm labourers or driven from town. It was not a great place for the likes of Kirb. What an oddball he is to applaud the representative of a family that probably treated his so cruelly.
Maybe he's related to George III.
 
This video with Mr Girling and Gaziano delivers cringeworthy moment after cringeworthy moment. Asks some really dumb questions and makes inane repetitive comments, and acts all funny. He also has collar gap (not shown so much in this picture, but l posted this because his face says it all, ie, goes on and on).

Thanks for the video Kirby. Nice to see the shoes.

image_2022-06-10_070723415.png



 
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This video with Mr Girling and Gaziano delivers cringeworthy moment after cringeworthy moment. Asks some really dumb questions and makes inane repetitive comments, and acts all funny. He also has collar gap (not shown so much in this picture, but l posted this because his face says it all, ie, goes on and on).

Thanks for the video Kirby. Nice to see the shoes.

View attachment 43775




It's about extending the time available for teh adverts. Archie Luxury used to do the same thing but with less (more?) panache.
 
This video with Mr Girling and Gaziano delivers cringeworthy moment after cringeworthy moment. Asks some really dumb questions and makes inane repetitive comments, and acts all funny. He also has collar gap (not shown so much in this picture, but l posted this because his face says it all, ie, goes on and on).


It was a bit forced at times. Girling and Gaziano look a bit samey, boring even.
 
Kirby plays the part of the English gentleman. He is really doing it all now.
View attachment 43704


Jesus Christ, Kirby's cosplaying Lord of the Manor now! That must be a sight to see.


But to be honest, I pity Kirby a bit. Sure, he's successful with his shop and seems to be doing well financially, but he seems to lack any real passion for what he's doing.

He seems to have jumped on the Menswear™ bandwagon and is now going through the motions of a Texan's idea of an "English gentleman" without any real heart in it, and apparently without self-awareness, as exemplified by that video.

I wish him the best with his chosen path.
 
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Kirby getting ready to do his first shoot in his bespoke tweeds.
Kirby  - shooting attire 1.jpg
Kirby - shooting tweeds 2.jpg




Not as glamorous as l thought it would be. Just plain gum boots worn by most shooters with no coat while Kirby was dressed to the hilt in bespoke coat and nice boots. Numerous buildings in the background spoiled the atmosphere.
image_2022-10-09_125544387.png


The video.
 
Kirby is not the only guy doing this type of thing. Recently an aussie bloke picked up his bespoke 3 or 4 piece tweed shooting suit from my tailor in 17 oz fabric.
 

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