Lapel roll

[Russell Street]

I was first made aware of such a thing by a Dunhill ad probably twenty years ago. Nowadays one of the things I hone in on when I see some workaday in a lackluster suit is the flat, almost creased, look of the limp lapels. In contrast to that gorgeous 3-d curve of a lapel rolling out above the button, the fabric just looks bent over. Besides being a sign of good construction, a stouter fabric will yield a large radius.

Admittedly, after hanging in a crammed closet too much, the roll decreases. However using a press cloth and ironing the back of a lapel to flatten it out is a simple job to do at home.

Good article here on the matter:
http://iconicallyrare.com/2013/04/04/the-lapel-roll-the-first-signal-of-a-handmade-suit/

 

[doghouse]

You don't even really need the press cloth for most fabrics outside your navy and charcoals. It needs to be flattened, but actually steaming and pressing the back side and tightening the fibers on that side to draw the roll into the fabric is what gives the really beautiful roll.

 

[Russell Street]

You don't even really need the press cloth for most fabrics outside your navy and charcoals

Because the shine is less noticeable on lighter shades? I'm just cautious, as most ninnies will tell you to run to a dry cleaner and never attempt a touch-up.

 

[doghouse]

Because the shine is less noticeable on lighter shades? I'm just cautious, as most ninnies will tell you to run to a dry cleaner and never attempt a touch-up.

It won't really shine at all outside of those colors, especially the navy. If you are unsure, the press cloth never hurts, just takes a little more work to use. You can practice on something old to get a feel for it, like a tweed.

Dry cleaners is probably the worst option, which shows the average iGent knowledge. Those people flatten lapels like it's their job.

 

[Russell Street]

One advantage of the awful skinny lapel is that it is nearly impossible to flatten the things.
As seen here.

 

[Thruth]

One advantage of the awful skinny lapel is that it is nearly impossible to flatten the things.
As seen here.

what size of lapels do you normally get?

 

[doghouse]

what size of lapels do you normally get?

 

[Thruth]

why am i not surprised

 

[Russell Street]

what size of lapels do you normally get?

I want to say 3-1/2"? I'd have to measure when I get home.

 

[Thruth]

i'm thinking of something like this for my next suit but in a slightly heavier fabric

 

[Russell Street]

Well it has a decent roll. I have an old SB London Fog coat that has odd lapels that allow it to button up with a bunch of overlap under the throat. I used it in the rain recently and really appreciated it.
I really aim for the unfurled tunic look with lapels.

 

[Betelgeuse]

I pay a lot of attention to the roll of the lapels to see if the garment is worth buying it. I usually take my jacket once to the dry cleaner or max twice a year and ask them to press the lapel the way I want. The one that does that job for me knows me very well and they respect my demand, so no problem with that so far.

 

[Russell Street]

I want to say 3-1/2"

Oh yeah, this was correct, although a few near 4".
On the old 3/2 roll, I can't quite warm up to the buttonhole on the roll. And cleaners will always press it wrong.

 

[doghouse]

All the tools needed for lapel rescue.

 

[Grand Potentate]

What is that thing?

 

[Leitmotif]

A thing to made the lapel roll be consistent. You so silly

 

[Russell Street]

What is that thing?

You've never seen a sleeve board?

Although I'm not exactly sure what technique is used to get the curve in. I just press the bottom flat and let it roll itself.