Love It or Hate It?

Russell Street

Russell Street

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This thread will be for odd items that one is undecided about, styles that one is on the fence about.

I'll start with this piece I first saw on Laragosta Laragosta 's blog. A double breasted tweed coat is unusual enough. But then it is belted. And the decription tips of that there is something called "crescent moon pockets" which are presumably curved besom pockets.
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I do always like three cuff buttons, and all my custom coats have this.
 
Probably inspired by the Norfolk jacket and then they went bezerk. Love it, but not in a I would wear that kind of way. I just appreciate the craftmanship.
 
That's why I'm iffy on it: it seems to have feature overload. I wasn't familiar with the term Norfolk jacket, but I've only seen belts on shooting jackets and leisure suits. I guess patch pockets would be too weird with double-breasted (unless you are Gianni Cerutti) and that's why the y went nuts and did this crescent moon pocket?
Other photos at http://www.muselladembechmilano.com/
 
Like in the right context. OCBD, donegal pants, sweater or, if one if very careful, rough wool tie.
 
Belt killed it for me even before Laragosta Laragosta defined as a morphed Norfolk jacket. Angle of the photo made it look longer to me than it actually is, which makes me want to kill it with fire.

tumblr_n73w41Wmi11s474uyo1_1280.jpg
 
thruth said:
Belt killed it for me even before Laragosta Laragosta defined as a morphed Norfolk jacket. Angle of the photo made it look longer to me than it actually is, which makes me want to kill it with fire.

tumblr_n73w41Wmi11s474uyo1_1280.jpg
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no need to change your mind. iirc, its meant as hybrid between jacket and overcoat. in addition, I'm not sure about the light colour for this purpose. he will lift the secret after he picked it up in a few days, anyway.
 
Ooooooof, that pciture makes it look less like a hybrid and more like a jacket that has lost its way. Seems like it might be too slim to really achieve its desired effect.

Double breasted cords, I can take or leave. If it were given to me, and as a suit, and it fit well, I'd happily wear it. Wouldn't pay for it nor for any alterations. And I wouldn't wear my jacket sleeves rolled up like that. Because. Fuck that.
 
I like corduroy. Have worn SB odd jackets and would wear a suit. Then in reading I noticed DB jackets and thought "why not?" Formby on FNB has a SB peak lapel in midnight blue.

Still at the why not stage.

Can never figure out what wale to go with. Thin most likely but 10, 12, needle? This does make or break a cord piece.
 
thruth said:
I like corduroy. Have worn SB odd jackets and would wear a suit. Then in reading I noticed DB jackets and thought "why not?" Formby on FNB has a SB peak lapel in midnight blue.

Still at the why not stage.

Can never figure out what wale to go with. Thin most likely but 10, 12, needle? This does make or break a cord piece.
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Have a cord jacket. Not sure how I feel about it as of yet.
cordsmall.webp
 
Understandable that patch + DB seems strange but there is some evidence that it existed if only in the mind of illustrators:

image.webp

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people thought of these things prior to the development of the iGentry. It is very interesting that 3 patch SB & DB suit jackets are frowned upon unless in Blazersuit mode or in donegal/other non-CBD fabric. The half-belt and bi-swing are a bit strange though.
 
I love how in the days when tailor0made clothing was more prevalent, the details were more varied and less uniform. Still, just the added complexity of a double breasted coat adds a whiff of refinement that says sewn-in instead of sewn-on pockets to me.

That said, the ever controversial Luca Rubinacci's coat above...I rather like the general design, but the sleeves seem too slim and the pattern is a bit strange.
 
The King of Dhaka cannot be called boring.
2014080503.jpg

There's much to comment on here, but I'm curious about the combination of that tabbed collar and the ticket pocket on the same coat. Isn't this a mix of country and city details?
Also, the shirt collar. Is a pinned collars supposed to exhibit this much roll?
 
Russell Street said:
The King of Dhaka cannot be called boring.
2014080503.jpg

There's much to comment on here, but I'm curious about the combination of that tabbed collar and the ticket pocket on the same coat. Isn't this a mix of country and city details?
Also, the shirt collar. Is a pinned collars supposed to exhibit this much roll?
Click to expand...

I tried to find an example online but a cursory scan turned up nothing. I'd say it is combining styling cues usually seen separately.

Does the ticket pocket seem kind of high or is it just me?

The buttons and the contrast button hole colour is off putting

He fancies himself a dandy with his daring accent colour choices but for me it always defeats the fit by appearing garish.

City/country conglomeration doesn't work for me
 
Pauly Chase said:
I like the idea, but the bunching of the sleeves really really bother me.
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Yeah, he has that issue a lot. You'd think he could fix it for the shot.
thruth said:
Does the ticket pocket seem kind of high or is it just me?
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I was going to mention that, but I wasn't so sure myself. Not being entirely below the button, which is supposedly at waist level, does seem odd.
 
Chaps like King of Dhaka are important.

Its rare that there are people from different enough cultures (not USA) who are interested in dressing well - whatever that means. It is rarer still that they have the money to indulge almost any random brainfart about clothes tempered with a reasonable amount of knowledge and some restraint . Its rare that most of the stuff fits properly. Perhaps not perfectly but as good as most bloggers/igents/forumites/tumblrs/It s even rarer that they take OK photos of themselves to document all this. We can then observe outfits that may be outside the norm and appraise them. With sometimes interesting results.

Who will you learn more from looking at - snitchy on SF or Dhaka King?
 
Russell Street said:
Yeah, he has that issue a lot. You'd think he could fix it for the shot.
I was going to mention that, but I wasn't so sure myself. Not being entirely below the button, which is supposedly at waist level, does seem odd.
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Does it also seem larger than normal? I don't know but everything seems kind of out of proportion when I look at it. The tab seems large and not as refined as many others you see.
 
Jimmy Frost Mellor said:
Chaps like King of Dhaka are important.

Its rare that there are people from different enough cultures (not USA) who are interested in dressing well - whatever that means. It is rarer still that they have the money to indulge almost any random brainfart about clothes tempered with a reasonable amount of knowledge and some restraint . Its rare that most of the stuff fits properly. Perhaps not perfectly but as good as most bloggers/igents/forumites/tumblrs/It s even rarer that they take OK photos of themselves to document all this. We can then observe outfits that may be outside the norm and appraise them. With sometimes interesting results.

Who will you learn more from looking at - snitchy on SF or Dhaka King?
Click to expand...

I agree that there is fare more interesting insight into the elements of style and bespoke with the King. Stitch just comes across as a blob, a conglomeration of iGent ideas where the whole is less than the sum of the parts.

Some of the King's commissions are interesting. Some are puzzling. Maybe I should invite him to join?
 
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