Menswear and films

Leitmotif

Eating his po boy w/oyster,petrosyan caviar,& gold
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I had this idea of perhaps posting agreeable menswear in films. I will start with what I think is perhaps is one of my favorites.

Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy
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Shouldn't this be in MC?

If you think it should be there, please also move it.

Regarding the thread, I did like a lot how Mark Strong was dressed in Body of Lies, not bad for a towelhead.
 
Finally found some photos that are actually good;

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I did not like the lapels on coat, I believe they are huge, but I did enjoy the outfit

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Perhaps my favorite! You can't bleach a Cerruti!!

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and this three piece brown suit on Steve McQueen in Thomas Crown
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Some of my favorite films/characters/outfits:


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(The Godfather)


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(The Sting)


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(Double Indemnity)


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(The Taking of Pelham One Two Three)


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(Thomas Crown)


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(The Hustler)


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(Shaft)


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(Talented Mr Ripley)


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(Die Hard)
 
Where's fxh fxh ? I'm sure that he'll have some good suggestions.

Also, a look through Vox Sartoria's Tumblr often yields good results for menswear in movies:

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I caught the musical 1776 on Saturday. Throughout the whole thing, Adams has this poof of fabric peeking through the undone middle buttons of his waistcoat.
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Mys assumption is that this is his neckwear, essentially being used as a napkin?
 
^ Don't know about the neckwear/napkin, but it's nice to see a waistcoat that's sufficiently long to cover the waistband of the trousers!
 
The Day of the Jackal. Great movie, and clothes are used fantastically by the protagonist played by Edward Fox as he shifts from persona to persona - a playboy, a Swedish friend of Sarto, a dusty old war veteran, an assassin...

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Me at one of our board meetings:

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In before fxh fxh on Dirty Harry.

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Heres a short version of something I prepared earlier from another place and time::- I've recycled this a few times - so apologies if you've read it
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Callahan is the only cop, perhaps only person, in the film to wear a tie done up all the time. Even running and sliding and shooting for his life in the quarry in a 3 piece brown suit.

Most of the cops wear nondescript suits with the clichéd hard working cop loosened tie. Callahan actually looks "modern" beside them. Keeping in mind that in 71 when the film was released , a jacket, tie and "tailored" pants were not the usual signifiers of "modern" by any means.

Certainly he's well dressed, not sloppy, smart. The done up tie and sleeveless jumper underneath tweed is not for the cold weather, none of the others are rugged up. More its a nod to the 3 piece suit, and a degree of formality, note he wears a 3 piece in the last scene.

Harry C is paradoxically, both everyman, - eats and orders the same hot dog every time, - and the outsider. Also paradoxically the moral outsider, protecting people/society not abandoning them for "protocol/rules" but also the immoral/amoral outsider in that hes prepared to deliver the death penalty without charge or trial of the victim.

Hes out of uniform, both the ordinary cop uniform literally and the uniform of his colleagues, the suit. He dresses differently, hes set apart in his wine vest, tweed jackets, grey pants, but at the same time he looks smarter than his fellow cops. Hes both smarter and neater than anyone who is not a cop and arguably neater and smarter looking than the cops.

His Mexican rookie partner, who starts off dubious, if not outright suspicious of Harry, and dressed in suit like the other cops, is by the end of the film coming around to understanding Harry and wearing a similar sport jacket and pants not a suit.

Whereas interestingly Harry finishes off the film, and narrative arc, in a 3 piece suit, clearly not your standard favoured police suit, at once different and more formal than a sloppy two piece. Or even a tweed jacket and grey pants.

wiki wrote:

Glenn Wright, Eastwood's costume designer since Rawhide, was responsible for creating Callahan's distinctive old-fashioned brown and yellow checked jacket to emphasize his strong values in pursuing crime

Clothes are never a frivolity, they always mean something James Laver (1899–1975)

Dirty Harry is worth watching. Again. Not only is it a great film by anyones standards but watching it with an eye to the meaning of clothes (both within the narrative and in a wider context) is rewarding. Harry Callahan is dressed (and keep in mind here that in film everything is carefully chosen and overdetermined) to convey efficiency, outsider status, everyman status, difference, morality, calculated recklessness, trustworthiness, rebel, upholder of law, breaker of law, conformist and killer - all at once. In the film it succeeds. Sometimes I'd like to think that outside the fictional world of the screen the message works too. On me if no one else.


On every film, the clothes are half the battle in creating the character. I have a great deal of opinion about how my people are presented. We show a great deal by what we put on our bodies. Meryl Streep

What’s great about costume is it’s the visual representation of the internal side of people. That’s what I love. Tim Burton

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I'm looking forward to the Beach Boys movie - probably next week.

Isn't just this the perfect summer silhouette.

Its the best of Ivy or California Beach Ivy.

Neat wide striped shirts. Short sleeves but not too short. Fitted but not body tight.
High rise slim white chinos/jeans. Not skinny but slim. Not nipple hugging high but a good high rise.

Neat, smart, shows care in dressing but relaxed, casual, clean, modern (whatever era you are in) but timeless, youthful without being only for youth, bright and cool in all senses of the word. From the best of USA clothing styles.
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And then theres the real thing. Based on what little I've seen the film appears to have made a real effort clothes wise for authenticity.
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Forget about the rest - look at the height and roll on those fucking collars - oooh ahhh
 
I saw the movie. The above shots of clothing are fleeting seconds. Its not really about the Beach Boys as much as its about Brian Wilson. I thought it was a great movie. The week or so before I saw the Amy movie - also great. Both of them are good especially when measured up against other music biopics. I highly recommend them. Aside from a few nuts like me and some others here "most people these days" - young and old - never hear music through decent sound systems - one of the things about the cinema is that the speakers and sound will be good to excellent - certainly worlds better than "most people these days" have ever heard.
 
anyway - apropos of discussion on another thread.
Not film, but these days almost the only appointment TV I watch is Inspector George Gently. A wonderfully crafted police procedural drama set in the 60s in UK. It deals with social issues of the time brilliantly, sadly reminding me that many issues I thought were mature get revisited today as if for the first time.

The main characters are well formed and slightly played against type, in that Bacchus the young groovy mod bloke dresses in the latest gear but is the knee jerk reactionary conservative and Gently dresses classically and is older but is the thoughtful progressive.

But if thats all a bit much watch it for the clothes. Both of them are dressed very well and change costumes throughout each episode. Its a clothing nerd's delight. Rarely can I fault what either of them are dressed in. Showing that dressing well can be done in a variety of fashions or styles.

Heres a few I cooked earlier.

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