Menswear Experts - Do as I Say Not as I Do?

Thruth

Big Winter Daddy
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Recent discussions here on DW have raised the point that some individuals who are respected as menswear experts do not necessarily practice what they preach.

What follows is a series of photos of several experts. The photos are randomly selected from a Google search not focussing on good or bad fit but rather a selection of what is out there on the interwebz

Thoughts?


Alan Flusser

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I'm not familiar with Michael Alden. What's he done?

Flusser has some singularly horrendous ties in his collection.
 
I'm not familiar with Michael Alden. What's he done?

Flusser has some singularly horrendous ties in his collection.

Alden is the King of London Lounge and the brains behind the special run fabrics
 
I think yukio is very stylish, Roetzl not too bad either. Will & Flusser look like sacks most of the time and those images are no exception.

Manton is not very photogenic and a fairly nerdy looking bloke which doesn't endear anyone to taking good photos even when in head to toe bespoke.

Some of the images appear fairly old so some questionable stylistic choices across the board.

I guess some blokes are very naturally stylish and others have to try very hard. I suspect many of the former have never even though about joining a menswear forum and dressing well just happens for them.
 
Flusser is a mess. Boehlke is frumpy and a bit old-fashioned, which would normally be something I'd say favorably, but he always come off as stiff and uncomfortable looking. Roetzl looks okay even if I'm not so keen on some items. Manton always looks like Ichabod Crane or something. The tailoring does not help his lanky frame in any visible way, and I hate his hair and glasses too.
I adore Michael Alden's style. He does the old man clothes with panache. Akamine seems cut from similar cloth and is sharp without looking affected. The last two pull it off in looking like they just slapped on some nice old mainstay from the closet and happen to look fantastic.
I guess some blokes are very naturally stylish and others have to try very hard.
Exactly. The effort shows through for Flusser and Boehlke, and that is not a good think. Alden and Akamine look like everything just magically fits perfectly and goes together well.
 
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Do his arms move to his mouth or do you have to slot the coins in there directly youself?

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Nicholas Antongiovanni = Manton??

Wtf is going on with Flusser? I remember seeing a pic of hi when I first joined SF and he looked nowhere horrendous as he does in those pictures.
 
Nicholas Antongiovanni = Manton??

Wtf is going on with Flusser? I remember seeing a pic of hi when I first joined SF and he looked nowhere horrendous as he does in those pictures.

Yup.

Flusser has been disheveled for some time. He is the quintessential "do as I say" but does otherwise for himself. Is it that he doesn't care or is it a cultivated look? Colours, patterns, fits are all out of whack. Is he a mess on purpose? Who knows. Maybe he should re-read his books.
 
I think yukio is very stylish, Roetzl not too bad either. Will & Flusser look like sacks most of the time and those images are no exception.

Manton is not very photogenic and a fairly nerdy looking bloke which doesn't endear anyone to taking good photos even when in head to toe bespoke.

Some of the images appear fairly old so some questionable stylistic choices across the board.

I guess some blokes are very naturally stylish and others have to try very hard. I suspect many of the former have never even though about joining a menswear forum and dressing well just happens for them.

Flusser is a mess. Boehlke is frumpy and a bit old-fashioned, which would normally be something I'd say favorably, but he always come off as stiff and uncomfortable looking. Roetzl looks okay even if I'm not so keen on some items. Manton always looks like Ichabod Crane or something. The tailoring does not help his lanky frame in any visible way, and I hate his hair and glasses too.
I adore Michael Alden's style. He does the old man clothes with panache. Akamine seems cut from similar cloth and is sharp without looking affected. The last two pull it off in looking like they just slapped on some nice old mainstay from the closet and happen to look fantastic.
Exactly. The effort shows through for Flusser and Boehlke, and that is not a good think. Alden and Akamine look like everything just magically fits perfectly and goes together well.

Nicely summarized Gents.

Flusser has been a mess for a long while. He is the quintessential "do as I say" because his own fits are all about clashing. Maybe it is on purpose, maybe not.

Nature has not been kind to will and he does nothing to obscure that fact. Frankly I find him to be more of a caricature; an older, schlubbier Tibor. No man should ever look like a giant Easter egg.

Roetzel has a slim frame which puts him ahead of Flusser and Will. I generally like what he does. He follows his own teachings.

Manton never looks well dressed to me. He would not stand out in a crowd - based on what he was wearing. Flusser would be the bag o'rags in the photo. Like if Rip Taylor exploded. Will would too given his penchant for headgear and bow ties.

Alden always looks well turned out. Besides fabric he is not out there preaching.

Yukio looks naturally stylish whether or not he puts a great deal of thought into his look.

People could learn a lot just by observing him and Alden. As you say there does not appear to be visible effort to look good.

When you parse things down to the tiniest of details the big picture is lost.

While I have learned a great deal from the fora, looking at Alden and Yukio, I can also see how easy it is to lose sight of the point of all of this: to dress well in a seemingly organic manner.

Looking at their photos is anyone of us looking at lapel width or other micromanaged details?

Not at first. We see the big picture.
 
Wow, what a bunch of ghey tackys, the worst is the pic on shorts on the Pitti, but you have copied my arguments;

  1. Flusser and Roetzel dress like shitte. I told this to Roetzel on a chat, no kidding. Ey, how is that you got the best book about but your tailor and style are a joke? He deleted me.


    He is him with a unfussed shirt collar ( note why Kiton do not do unfussed, as is only for hyped ignorants as Gianni per example, see the shirt collar how unpro looks due to this fact), then is too tall for the jacket collar( this goes against the basic dressing rules that are well pointed on his book, so he we have another Âż?Âż? here.

    Then see how poorly made his jacket is( German tailors, another untailors as Spaniards who like to say they are better than Naples or Savile, here the prove they are poor)

    Both sleeves, breast and front is defective poor tailoring. Jacket looks and has the same fails of an Spanish untailor called Langa, the one who does for the Real Madrid boss. On Italian airports I am asked tons of times who is the untailor who does those crimes, while on Spain he even says he did shirts for Cary Grant, the man who returned garments with a distortion on the fit of several mms. them is obvious a rice bag as his unshirts( he learnt on Burgos) were straight to trash, but this fakers like to show up to fool his untrained clientele, politicians and celebrities as well as the bollger of yesterday, he did that unshirt Rambo asked what crap was that. He has bribed all the tacky bloggers of Spain as well.

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    ( I got this stored for my upcoming blog of social denunce of fake heroes, numer one is Craptom, then Lucca)


    And the tackytorialist, i wonder why he calls sartorialist instead of fashionist that are the disgusting things he shows .

    Guess what substance has he snorted( no joke either), any expert on that matter can id easily
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    Last edited: Saturday at 4:17 AM
    Sartodinapoli, Saturday at 4:04 AM

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  2. SartodinapoliActive Member
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    I like Manton. His book was well written (although I disagreed with several of his point). Chatted online with him a few times, he was straightforward, but nice. He's a little bitchy sometimes, sure, but he's posting on a goddamned men's fashion forum. What do you expect? When in Rome....

    Sorry to disagree, his book is pretty bad and he is one of the worst dressers around, 4 sizes bigger 1990s style.

    Also is an effeminate, an inmature and an histrionic person, he made ban M&ms , a guy with a 10$ can of salt and pics of dishes, do you remember?

    The envious paradox is that was on a forum of suits like Brioni or Kiton who cost more than a VW GTI used, but were envious and upset of a guy using a can of 10$ salt. Ridiculous wannabes. People who have born already on this step of the burgueoise do not envy or show off, is simply our daily way to be natural born.

    This is the prove those histrionics are a bunch of degenerates and bad people. Let's pray for the sanation of their degeneration folks.

    Sartodinapoli, Saturday at 4:11 AM
 
I was going to add a photo array on Simon but then I thought, he rarely provides expertise on anything other than shilling.

Jajaja!
 
To my eye, Andre Churchwell dresses in a similar fashion to Will - old school vibe & with seasonal colours - but the result is night and day. Again, a matter of degrees and no apparent effort to achieve a look. No schlub.
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Roetzel is a "Quatscher", unfortunately. I had a few exchanges and he is unbelievable plain. not even entertaininig, just sad, imo.
 
Thanks for elevating this bland discussion Sartodi Napoli Sartodi Napoli

Thruth Thruth are you going to add more examples? Can we make suggestions?

Hey ConchitaWurst ConchitaWurst , absolutely, please do add. My eyes are wonky from staring at my phone screen while creating the thread.

That was a start and hopefully others find examples of those who do practice what they preach, those who don't as well as examples of others who have a sense of style but who don't necessarily pose as sartorial experts.
 
I think Will fancies himself as Marcus Brody from the Indiana Jones movies. They dress similarly, but Brody was a convivial British drunk, whereas Will seems to be an arrogant buzzkill. It makes a big difference.
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Also, that was in the 1940s.
 
Alden is the King of London Lounge and the brains behind the special run fabrics

Alden and Yukio are legitimately stylish people. Alden is pretentious, which totally detracts from his style, but he does have an aesthetic sense.

In what fucking alter universe is Will Boehlke stylish? Or an authority? Maybe the guys from B&B's Haberdashery or the local IT department?

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This picture right here is why Manton is never to be listened to for anything. This garment needs to be burned with extreme prejudice. I expect better fitting items on rodeo clowns.
 

  1. He is him with a unfussed shirt collar ( note why Kiton do not do unfussed, as is only for hyped ignorants as Gianni per example, see the shirt collar how unpro looks due to this fact),

Do you think people should not fuss over their collars?
 
In what fucking alter universe is Will Boehlke stylish? Or an authority? Maybe the guys from B&B's Haberdashery or the local IT department?

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This picture right here is why Manton is never to be listened to for anything. This garment needs to be burned with extreme prejudice. I expect better fitting items on rodeo clowns.
I like Alden's aloofness myself, but I'm not that exposed to it. Will is probably the best dressed insurance salesman in the Midwest.
Exactly on Manton. The average man can do better off the peg. The coat seems to accentuate vertical length and be an inch or more longer than it should be. It seems to drop well below the crotch and the body seems oddly loose compared to the sleeves and legs. The straight leg is not his friend either.
 
I know a lot but never pretend to dress as an example. I do try when I dress but I don't sweat how I look for every time. Basically I have stuff that mostly works with each other no matter how I wear it. The occasions I look in a shop window and see myself not looking how I imagined or wroing colours, I tell myself its cool sprezz.

Anyway I meant to say I'll write something about the above and context at some point. I'm laying in bed typing on a 7" tablet right now. Not conducive to long extended erudite posts of brilliance.
 
Anyway I meant to say I'll write something about the above and context at some point. I'm laying in bed typing on a 7" tablet right now. Not conducive to long extended erudite posts of brilliance.

I've seen your best work come from late night tablet scribbling.
 

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