Old and New, Fabrics and Cut

[Russell Street]

Instahate posted disfavorably on this Dapper something guy, who seems to be aiming for a vintage look in terms of color, pattern, accessories and all, but the stuff is all in a horrible modern tight fit and short fit with anemic lapels and all. This looks horrible to me. One needn't be a purist or an anachronist, but there is something disconcerting about trying to mash trendy and classic together when it doesn't gel and I'm having problems explaining it.
I think part of it is that trendy cut, especially when the trend is getting a bit long in the tooth, starts looking cheap. Vintage clothing was not relatively cheap. It gives the vibe that one is aiming for an upscale golden years look using semi-disposable crud from the local discount/department store.

There are the Fedora Lounge kooks, and some Ivy nutters, that go for a total yesteryear look, aiming to look like time travelers. I have several vintage items, but never really think of them as such because they are just what I wanted and integrate with everything else.

Is this just a case of disliking internal inconsistencies of wardrobes that demonstrate a misunderstanding or disdain for tradition and history, or is there something else to it?

 

[Thruth]

Instahate posted disfavorably on this Dapper something guy, who seems to be aiming for a vintage look in terms of color, pattern, accessories and all, but the stuff is all in a horrible modern tight fit and short fit with anemic lapels and all. This looks horrible to me. One needn't be a purist or an anachronist, but there is something disconcerting about trying to mash trendy and classic together when it doesn't gel and I'm having problems explaining it.
I think part of it is that trendy cut, especially when the trend is getting a bit long in the tooth, starts looking cheap. Vintage clothing was not relatively cheap. It gives the vibe that one is aiming for an upscale golden years look using semi-disposable crud from the local discount/department store.

There are the Fedora Lounge kooks, and some Ivy nutters, that go for a total yesteryear look, aiming to look like time travelers. I have several vintage items, but never really think of them as such because they are just what I wanted and integrate with everything else.

Is this just a case of disliking internal inconsistencies of wardrobes that demonstrate a misunderstanding or disdain for tradition and history, or is there something else to it?

I think that is what separates someone who knows what they want in terms of a particular look and most likely engages a tailor to craft it so that it does not look like a costume or a shrunken version of a vintage piece.

Here is an example where a period look is taken up but looks timeless.

 

[Thruth]

Here is Barims from SF who is pulling off a 70's vibe. It could be viewed as bordering a costume but he has the panache to pull it off. Running the risk of being considered politically incorrect, not many white guys could pull this off. Just think of Tibor and how his outfits come across as pure theatrics notwithstanding his love of the era from which he dresses.

 

[fxh]

barims always looked great - a kind of version of Labelking - barims had a sophisticated understanding of what he was doing artistically - and I suspect he actually enjoyed clothes and had fun - knew his body shape limits. I think a white guy could pull the look off. I do see the odd one I real life come close - Dave Graney a local muso here - has a bit of that feel and he wears it onstage and off in normal life - he makes it work mostly. I'll dig up some pics if I can of Dave. I think that foxtooth guy who started posting on SF could pull it off too - you have to not take yourself too seriously and yet be serious about getting it right.

Tibors problem is I think he takes himself too seriously and hes just hasn't "got it" he isn't naturally cool. Sometimes it just comes naturally. I call it the % of Elvis one has inside. Some have none. Others have a big Elvis quotient. Its about ease and not trying too hard but at the same time caring. Also I think tibor is too young for that look to work on him. When hes 50 or so - he'll probably do it very well.

 

[Thruth]

barims always looked great - a kind of version of Labelking - barims had a sophisticated understanding of what he was doing artistically - and I suspect he actually enjoyed clothes and had fun - knew his body shape limits. I think a white guy could pull the look off I see the odd one I real life come close Dave Graney a local muso here - has a bit of that feel and he wears it onstage and off in normal life - he makes it work mostly. I'll dig up some pics if I can of Dave. I think that foxtooth guy who started posting on SF could pull it off too - you have to not take yourself too seriously and yet be serious about getting it right.

There is a certain something when you look at these types that tells you it works or not. It might be as you say that the individual exhibits the sense that they are in control of the look rather than it in control of them.

But isn't that the difference between those who dress by numbers or rules or assemble something that seems to hit all the high points but falls flat because there is a lack of genuine understanding of what they are doing. Mimicry versus creating. Real in an unreal way?

 

[fxh]

As to Russels first post - I have a wardrobe full (well 5 or 6 or more) of vintage Ivy jackets and a few vintage OCBDs , a vinatge Brooks No1 grey herringbone suit, a 70s Cardin suit, and a couple of pairs of shoes from the 60s, plus my Barracuta that conchita desires, - i'll post a few thoughts another day.

 

[Russell Street]

The counter example to the hipsterish douche in the first post might be Gianni Cerutti. His tailored clothing is usually cut fairly traditionally, but he chooses cockamamie fabrics and colors. And it bugs me less than the Thom Browne shrunken Brooks Brothers look. Perhaps I can take experimentation in the one realm as being playful, even daring, but unconventional cuts are essentially sacrilege and indicative of poor taste and a poor understanding of it all.