Orazio Luciano f/w 14/15, or what @sartodinapoli didn't get

ConchitaWurst said:
You mean the green fabric with the worn out look and all the pilling? That's casentino wool. A Tuscan workhorse fabric originally for country wear. Very Pitti Uomo 2013.
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Yes, apparently the surface of the cloth used to be beaten with sticks to achieve the "pilling" but now, of course, it's done by machine.
 
Those suits are fused, as my master, the grandmasters of Kiton and the best neapolitan tailors have seen, after the scam he did to me. He seems to bribe some blogs were my expose with pics was deleted and i was insulted telling i could not differ a fused from a non fused. Bribing and undignity reachs so far or poor tailoring skills, who knows, but daring to say x knows more than the best tailors in the world, is simply ridiculous.

He cuts all the suits in industrial sizes and after that, he recuts to adapt cheaply to the customer. He is a faker.

He was kicked out of Kiton by robbing fabrics and suits to Ciro Paone, he was blacklisted in Naples for decades
for it until he started this scam where almost all the workers are not italians but bulgarians etc.

No one speaks good about him on Naples.

Judge yourself if this car gum fusing canvas is real tailoring;

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And if this is a very good fit as this, also Gianni´s defender, said it was a very good fit. This is the crap he sent me after he measured me personaly, Orazio crapazio. Judge yourself the tailoring skills both of Orazio and the forum owner who banned me, he said this was a perfect fit.

He is always stalking the good patternmakers of Naples to help him, and this people pass of him as he is a crook and he robbed Paone, the Godfather of tailoring.

He puts also 1 euro per meter polyester and tried to fool me it was real cupro.

Even the sleeve stripes are crooked, to save 20 cm of fabric, the stripe that starts on the shoulder bone, doesn´t ends on the right place that is the center of your hand, but totally crooked. This is " good tailoring by this shills.

My master never seen such a monster on his life( appart of the Spanish tailoring of course)

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Sartodinapoli said:
My master never seen such a monster on his life( appart of the Spanish tailoring of course)

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First, the short video shows hideous stuff.
Next, Sarto's photo undubitedly shows a coat that is unworthy of decent home-made clothing and is certainly not fine tailoring. I can't make out the stripes, but the sleeves are a mess, as is the back and the shoulders.
It seems that the more anyone gushes about the many handmade steps yadda yadda the bigger a turd their product is. Not seeing the forest for the trees and all.
 
Yes, remember that i was banned of forum, and the owner said i was a mad, and the jacket was perfect.

Pics on the manekin of my school. If any pupil would make this, would be kicked out. My grandmaster ( who Orazio stalks to get his help, but he always says him NO agreed, the most horrid scam ever) See the crooked sleeves .

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How Orazio fixed it, and continue saying it was good, until i said give me my money back, he said do not call me anymore.

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CROOK! THIEVE, SCAMMER,
 
fassbinder said:
but why are you always dressed in jeans and orphaned suit coats. this is the third picture of you I have seen and it is always the same (the first was when you are buying Riva cloth and the other is your Chiaia Napoli jacket). a worsted pinstripe suiting cloth does not become a jacket because you put some patch pockets on it and wear jeans. you might not be a pitti tacky, but you do look like a douchebag. you are not very elegant, but look like an average guy who shops at Zara.
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JJAJA

And won´t be the last as that is my style. I always dress on jeans and sartorial shirt and dress shoes. If got to work, put a jacket on. If using the full suit will look odd, pretentious and overdressed on my country. I know the rules, for sure, but i am not a pedant or an igent. Also got to sell my product and avoid being rejected by clients for looking overdressed. Basic psychology.

This is daily on Italy, pinstripes with jeans, far better than monks with no socks, or slim trousers with doublebreast and metal chain, i do not live on Italy usually.

Sadly i quit dressing the suit trouser as on my low knowledge area, where no one wears suits but cheapo ZARA like workers, i was confused on the streets to this people, so doing it on jeans, it's obvious i do not work for any other but myself, remember i reached the top job, directive task when i was 27. Any Zara worker wear jeans with jacket, is forbidden.

Most of my suit trousers are yet umhemmed and brand new. I am a douchebag, thank you

On this Orazio case, i was ordering a suit, but after i tried several ill fitting jackets, i knew their sizing and patterns were poor, so i decided to save the trousers, looking back, i did well. I wonder what crap whould have him delivered.

Sadly if even our King wears pochette ever, that will give you an image of the worst dressed country, just see my critics to the " tailors" who ever dare to say they are over Savile or Naples. Could could i go dressed like i do on Naples , this ignorants would ever ask me on a Monday if i am getting married or going to a funeral.

On the funeral of a neighbourgh, i was dressed on a dark navy Corneliani suit and i was confussed with the official undertaker. No joking.

jajaja
 
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What are the other brands besides Riva that you think are superior?



And can you elaborate on how they are superior?



Also, what's wrong with Burgos shirts?





An Italian icon of dressing ( not for me imho) only wore Riva shirts.

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I never liked his suits on the other hand. And if x dress xx is not a matter of fact xx is good.



Burgos uses the fact that the King of Spain wears them, as if that was a signal of good making, the one they lack. Also Larrainzar, the worst tailor ever. Both do trunkshows together,



Here the result;



Any neapolitan shirtmaker who do this, would have to close the morning after. The patternmaking is so bad that they but the collar bad close to the ears, for real;



This on the pic, the boss of a bank, made me lose close to 600.000 euros of my own money before ruining me, client of the worst ever tandem.



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And this is is a " bespoke" shirt fit of them , also plastic buttons ( even Simon cromptom said to me were mop, the poor guy can´t differ a plastic button from a real mop. I wonder how he gets 300.000 readers if he only shills poor tailors after paying him as has been exposed and is a common reality on the industry. ( He turned the clown on Kiton), after i shown him how he rated a 9 out of 10 a Burgos shirt, and a 7 a Kiton shirt. But months later he reckon the Burgos shirt was the worst of the 3 he reviewed. You can read my denunce of this on several forums.



I got bounced clients from Burgos who even have shown me what they do, fabrics of 40/2 at 3 euros meter, horrible 3 sizes more fit, etc 255 euros, same than a Kiton shirt with top fabrics and top everything. Got no idea of correcting different body shapes, resume is a rookie shirt, worse than the first ever shirt a pupil can do ( this is for real) scammed as the top of the tops



Burgos even has crooked lines and knots on the machinemade threads, that is impossible to achieve unless you got no idea of sewing or your hobbist machine is detuned/broken, but who cares if they sell a lot being " the shirtmakers of the King"



Also goes again the rules ( as they have never learn on a tailoring school) that collar bands when unbuttoned do separate of the skin,

they always do due to poor patternmaking.











Pics of a shirt of a client, see the poor handwork, and 1 stitch per kilometer, this is a scam and horrid. A blind grandpa can do better ( by the way, the grandmother of the Borrellis was almost blind, and was one of the best sewers )





This is simply the WORST EVER ARTICLE; And the less dignous one, he got the shirt for free and lied on everything.



The cuff is an aberration, the fit he gave a 9 is simply a 0, he also said make 9 points, is 0 POINTS, the button stance is way off ( see the last button and the breast button, placed on wrong places, not on a random shirt, but on all what they do, as got no idea, the button is plastic, he said was mop to me on a comment as Paco,



Crampton said, to finish dong the ridicule, was great the grandaughter quit studying and " learnt" shirtmaking on a week ( here is the result). I am learining shirtmaking with who is considered the best alive, close to 2 years and 8 hours a day, and i got a lot of things to learn, but magically a girl with any prior knowledge of mens cloths do a 9 out of ten shirt with a week training. Wow, magical, why am I on Naples instead of having them as teachers or Kiton etc does not contracts them as patternmakers? jajajaa



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http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/02/burgos-of-madrid-bespoke-shirt-review.html#.VBfYiSihNfE



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From their website; I laughed loud;

Desde 1912 Burgos es tradición artesanal y calidad. El arte por el detalle en una camisa exquisitamente terminada y siempre personal.



A shirt incredible fine finished and always personal , when they use the same pattern for everybody, see the pics of how well finished it is, jajajaja


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THE HEM ROLL , AS ON POCHETTES HAS TO BE ROLL, THIS IS SQUARED FLAT PRESSED, AS WELL AS UGLY AS HELL WITH 1 STICH PER KILOMETER INSTEAD OF A LOT PER CENTIMETER, THIS SHIRT CAN BE DONE ON A FEW MINUTES INSTEAD OF 24 HOURS OR MORE AS A TRUE SARTORIAL. FRAUD

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They do crooked machine stitching but poor handwork, but clients are happy as this is the only handsewn garment they have ever seen and comes from the "tailors of the King"



Poor machine stitching; You will agree any 1 euro shirt of a random baazar is properly made instead of this.



Note the crooked machine stitching with knots, even a maiden with Parkhinson would do straight;



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EDITED;

THIS GUY IS MAD, One guy asks him why he rated better than Kiton this unshirt , he gave it a 9. But Simon himself dares to ask this good guy, where did he said that, I THOUGHT THIS SHILL WAS MAD,

  1. Simon Cromptonreplied:
    5 months ago
    Thanks Dan. I agree that the Burgos shirt was the worst of the three I tried. However, I really don’t think you can accurately assess any of those fit aspects from these photos. Almost any bespoke fitting photos online have to be merely illustrative

    reply
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    Luc Jacobsreplied:
    1 week ago
    Simon, I was browsing through some of you articles and just saw these last two comments. If the shirt was the worst out of the three, how come you ranked it higher than the Kiton shirt? I always thought your reviews were something your readers could rely on. Also, may I remind you of the email exchange we had in May about the issues with Passaggio Cravatte? Have you already had time to look into that? If so, will you be updating your articles on Passaggio Cravatte? Thanks and regards. Luc

    reply
  3. biog-photo1.jpg
    Simon Cromptonreplied:
    1 week ago
    Hi Luc,
    Could you point out where I said it was better than Kiton? I’ll try and straighten out any inconsistency.
    And yes, thanks for the reminder on Passaggio. I’ve talked to a couple people about it but don’t have a definitive answer, and try never to publish anything that is not thoroughly substantiated.
    Any other questions let me know
    Thanks

    reply


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EDITED, JUST FOUND THIS, I KNEW THIS SIMON WAS A MAD PERSON, HENCE HIS LOOKS AND LIES, HERE IS TO PUT HIM A STRAIGHT JACKET, HE POINTS A 9 OUT of 10 the Burgos shirt, then he reckons is the worst of the 3 he compared, but ends asking this guy where did he say was better than Kiton, where he rated far lesser. MAN IS NUTS!!!
 
That review is classic Craptom.

1. "It’s worth mentioning that Carmen is from the Burgos family but only recently joined the company, giving up a career in software. I’m sure this is a reason she is more professional than many other shirtmakers."

That makes sense, absolutely. Someone with no experience making or selling shirts would be far better at it than someone who did it for a living their whole life!

2. "All the details were right"...

"There are a few things I would change slightly, such as the height of the collar at the front, the thickness of the interlining and the material itself..." So pretty much everything then.

3. "the fit was great"...

"The collar buttonhole was also surprisingly high on the collar, and small, and there was no gap for the tie between the two sides of the collar." Sounds like a great fit there.

All I can say is he got the shirt he deserved.
 
The first sentence offends us real shirtmakers with the degree of it, 2 years at 8 hours per day and more than 30.000 euros. But a crook can learn on a week...

Ok, a tarot player is better than a 11 years studied surgeon.
 
One of my scammers was afraid once i caught him randomly on a place.

If i ever find this Craptom on the street i will teach him about not shirtmaking but shitmaking and he can shit his
bespoke shilled trousers.

Remember he went to the shop of a friend, used to get asked for the pizzo, the mafia´s monthly payment, asking for cash for shilling.

He was about to get launched to the dock for wise guy prick. This is for real ( that i know) and following how his shill is and how pretentious he is in person or looks, i am sure this defective body unmen did for real.

Craptom i got 5 euros to shill my tailoring, take them my little unboy.
 
Sartodinapoli, a question.

If someone here was so tacky they must order a MTM shirt online - would you have any advice?
 
Jimmy Frost Mellor said:
Sartodinapoli, a question.

If someone here was so tacky they must order a MTM shirt online - would you have any advice?
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I do that service and do not consider tackys the clients of the service, being ordered to me or any other shirtmaker. Tacky is if he orders an orange check for dress purposes ( aberration) shirt as Gianni or a shirt with horizontal stripes as the Spanish arstocrat blogger or who knows what igents got in mind at this time.
 
Sartodinapoli said:
nd won´t be the last as that is my style. I always dress on jeans and sartorial shirt and dress shoes. If got to work, put a jacket on. If using the full suit will look odd, pretentious and overdressed on my country. I know the rules, for sure, but i am not a pedant or an igent. Also got to sell my product and avoid being rejected by clients for looking overdressed. Basic psychology.
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I am more of a lurker than anything else but here is Sarto dressed on his usual sartorial shirt:

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He will not be a pedant or an igent but he still needs to walk the walk.
 
We have a troll here, he might be of the terrible Spanish igent forum, those who asked for my friendship and when i told them how tacky and vomitive homos they were and are they cowardly banned me, made me a favour as was a waste of time being with kiddos of Zara and pinksockers.

This might be the pedant who got any idea about tailoring and all his post were bullshit that i got to correct.

Example, he calls sartorial shirt to that rtw shirt of 30 euros as i said. Fakers, ignorants, shills, igents and gheys

jajajaj poor losers living on a lie.
 
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As i posted when this f*g who is married with another man ( for real ) bullshited the same thing, the only fact this tackys got against me is using a lie as if that was a sartorial shirt, please read what i posted in June. Ah, he is close anal friend of Gianni. jajaja His blog is called corner of tackys, nenazas arrinconadas.

The links to the horrid pics of those Gianni friends and clients ( who can wear a Gianni untie but those ignorant gheys ?)



Here are them, pay attention to those corner of tacky igents, this are advanced disseases collectors. jaja

Jaja Glad you liked, those classless brainless lumpens are so that are unable to see which one was my exposed.

One degenerate sodomite with the nick chewy on Spanish, what a low dignity of course, talking daily of homemade anal creams.

And those degenerates call a high burgueoise member as me things. jaja damn socialist brainless envious. Only to see them dressing gives me diarrea. Jaja Corner of tackys. Arrinconados should be called, left on a side. As no pro is there but a bunch of wannabes unable to do even a proper knot.

Are so selfhumillated as the Spain football team. Think are good but in two matches got 7 goals. jaja. Damn losers

By the way go to this spaniard infamous forum of wannabes. First they call me for help and then they ban me as Gianni lovers do not like what i say. Always the truth and how to dress as a respectable man not as a joker buffon degenerate who won't ever have a job.


From the creator of the worst transvestite blog ever, where any look is able for businessman, lawyers or ministers but effeminate fashionistas. It looks a wank magazine for beard fashionistas where any garment is properly fitted as well.

Owner is an ignorant pedant married with a beard man as him, i owned him all the time as he has any idea of dressing or tailoring so he/she became jealous.

www.suitsandshirts.com but is suits and SHITS.

Then came this tacky forum where i got banned by Zara MTV boys and literally a degenerate who posts about antiirritation anal creams, beat that!

www.rincondecaballeros.com

Means gents corner but is sex encounters on train mens bathroom instead. Hedonistic narcissistic unmen parodying the classic rules. Low class both social, cultural and of course economically as this kiddos talk about Liverano as if they knew what are blabbering but can't afford a Zara extra laces. An article about Drape is simply hilarious, is like reading Ferrari is a Rugby team of the Caribbean instead of what is.

Most ridiculous pedant place ever.

Have a look a bring pics so we can get some laughs.

One was a moderator on red slim trousers, that garment that any real man has to have, then added a badly cutted DB coat to extra pretentiousness, the hipchainwatch, that complement of pretentious tackys that yallows out I am a tacky and the crown was sunglasses indoor.

Tacky of the year.
ANY
#2Posted 20 June 2014 - 05:20 PM

That bunch of tackys and h o m o s are so ridiculous that even pasted this on their shitty place for 16 year old gheys where each poster has 50 post a day.

Don't work, are a bunch of degenerates and ridiculous tackys playing Barbie with low tailored garments. My fault to go to an Spaniard blog. All are same donkey shitte. Spain has the worst tailors and worst dressers, have a look at that place. Ah the ignorant poster doesn't wants to recognice he is the married with a man. Damn owned prick. In person this bunch doesn't last me 5 seconds each. Even then i got to desinfect myself of such sexual dissease collectors.

Never trusts tackys my friends. Rule number 1.
On Italy are making the fun of the year of such forum as well as making fun of me by having registered on a tacky inmature badtaste shitte.

Jaja and they think they are elegants but Pitti door barebackers.


Back to that horrid place.

See how degenetated is Spain that a ghey writtes i have mental problems, a tacky ghey!!! jajaja

And now one of my frequent insulters, on PINK socks and an awful jacket. What can you spect of such a tackys? jajaja

http://www.rincondec...tu-look/page530

Now by same pr*ck a horrid shirt and a terrible trouser, see the horrid fit of the trouser.

This pr*cks narcissistics, instead of learn, insult a guy as me who daily works with the best. An applause for inmature of the year and bad dressed.


http://www.rincondec...tu-look/page528

Attention to the DB coat, one of the worst fits EVER but worse are the comments, ohh is great!!! jajjaa damn ignorants.
And he seems mod of the tackys corner.
http://www.rincondec...tu-look/page524


Hi buddies will answer your pm slowly. I know you are asking me more hilarious pics of tacky pretentious spaniards but got low megas remaining.

Those tackynarcissistics, instead of being humble and learn to dress are overreactiong like he attacks one of our army, the army of tackiness.


jaja damn losers.

You can see all around that horrid place and paste here pics. And they believe that is being a gentleman. Mates how many times did i warn you how socialism destroyed the morals of my country that this ignorant tackys that on the golden age of dressing, the 1950s should be put on prison by being the social danger weirdos they are. But on their inmature narcissistic minds they believe are elegants and call me crazy. jaja

The world at reverse. Bunch of tackys and low public school system. They should be slapped or sent to the army so they learn to be what are NOT, men!!!

Ah see how ridicules are that any true gentleman is on a corner, society puts on the corner the FAILS as those are a Fail of men.

We on Naples disslike tackys. See how they only wear fashion forward crap with ill fit and are even.proud of it. See the full Italy making jokes of those lickers. As narcissistics, they need the adulator figure. As Gianni uses to say to the worst dressers ohhh how good is your garment. This gheys do one to the other as Gianni to have clients, this to have same genre sex.

And call me sick this shouldputonareeducationcamp ignorants. Wow bring thorazine in trucks please, needs urgent sedation. jaja
Posted 21 June 2014 - 12:44 AM

Ah that forum is Criminal! Are spreading pfds of ilegal copies of tons of books.

I have denunced it to several places as SGAE and others for piracy.

Tackys and criminals . Damn thiefs.
 
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ConchitaWurst said:
Good that that's all cleared up.

Hey Sartodi Napoli Sartodi Napoli is that you in that picture the new Spanish member attached?
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Sure i am not a coward. I said that was a rtw shirt, in fact the second brand of Delsiena, 30 euros.

I was wearing that shirt on jeans when took this pic to demonstrate the knot of a bespoke tie i was doing for a client, one of the few good dressed ones on Spain, on the contrary to this manipulator.

What dignity has one who lies knowing the fact he already knew was a cheap rtw shirt to try fakely to humillate a person? Here is that tacky ignorant who also is member ( he pays 200 euros to e member of the arstocrat club, the shill of the Spanish untailors, the one with the horrid horizontal striped unshirt). This tackys got Craptom as idol, for real. What can you expect?



Also i never get humillated by this defective born gheys, the one who is humillated will be highed, the Bible says.

Trolls and narcissistic pedant igents. Let´s pray for the cure of their illness.

RECTUMITES IN PURE STATE
 
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Sartodinapoli said:
I know him and have talked with him several times, very kind and nice guy, he owns a very good sartoria in Rome, but his personal dressing style is not mine as you can guess.
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If we are going to concentrate on "kind and nice" we are going to get nowhere. I hear Lino is nice, I hear Valentino Ricci is nice, probably lots of others are nice. Of the usual suspects Luca sticks out as an arrogant dickhead. Come and think of it "Roberto Raro" of mararo and his following are probably also pretty obnoxious and complacent.
 
MR SHILL CRAPTOM COUNTERATTACKS

Remember the horrid horizontal unshirt and all the crap suits of the Spanish blogger?

Not Mr. Shill promotes his untailor, Langa, ( the worst ever after Burgos) see this bag of wrinkles and totally off back, the back is simply too wide and poor.

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The front is a wrinkled bag of rice


and he says is better than Savile, jajajaja


But the most classy, as he already did in December in Madrid wearing a linen cream suit is to wear a linen suit in London in September. TOP UNCLASS

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WOW this is far worse than Orazio, didn´t i warn you about this untailors months ago?



http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2014/09/linen-suit-from-langa-madrid.html
 
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