Overcoats

Russell Street

Russell Street

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This is one of those things that I just did not grow up with and don't have a good knowledge on.
Despite it being very nice, the one that I have now is a single breasted thing and the opening, the lapels, sit right below that of the coat underneath. For warmth, I feel that's too darn low. The lowest button is two or three inches below the waist, which works okay.
The overall length is to about midcalf, which I feel is perfect, although it is a bit of a nuisance when stepping into a car. I guess right above the knee is okay too, but this mid-thigh stuff looks silly to me.
Solid navy, black or gray seemed too dismal, so I have brown. I'm a little perplexed by the formality scale of tweeds and plaids, which I'd love. And the body has a decent amount of room and is not squeezing me. I have no idea what's up with these kooks in their tight-fitting overcoats.
Post any and all advice on information on overcoats.
 
I like overcoats.
Usually mine are around knee length, maybe a bit longer, maybe a bit shorter.
Double-breasted.
Heavy cloth.
Here in Russia I got a navy one, a camelhair polo coat and a green casentino with a fur collar.
Not tight, however with some shape....
The only thing that is bugging me is that they constantly get dirty because all cars are constantly dirty over here in wintertime.
 
LKP LKP , what weight fabric are your overcoats? It is hard to find really heavyweight fabric. I know Fox has 3o/31 ounce British Warm fabric.

But it is hard to find 28 ounce plus dark colours. At least I don't see it
 
Thruth said:
LKP LKP , what weight fabric are your overcoats? It is hard to find really heavyweight fabric. I know Fox has 3o/31 ounce British Warm fabric.

But it is hard to find 28 ounce plus dark colours. At least I don't see it
Click to expand...

HE Box has (had?) some nice heavy workhorse coatings in a few dark colors.
 
Thruth said:
LKP LKP , what weight fabric are your overcoats? It is hard to find really heavyweight fabric. I know Fox has 3o/31 ounce British Warm fabric.

But it is hard to find 28 ounce plus dark colours. At least I don't see it
Click to expand...

The navy cloth is from Huddersfield Cloth. 25oz I think. Bought it before they had their strange ELITE rebranding...
The camelhair is 640g. Which should be somewhere close to 25oz too. From Minnis.
The casentino... no clue. It is a lumpencloth anyway.

ConchitaWurst said:
HE Box has (had?) some nice heavy workhorse coatings in a few dark colors.
Click to expand...

HE MAN wears HE BOX
 
ConchitaWurst said:
One I really like is a patterned/mottled beige of about 1kg which would be perfect for greatcoat.
Click to expand...

that is a great weight.

http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/363/west-of-england-coating/foxs-great-coat

http://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/prod/365/west-of-england-coating/the-churchill-british-warm


BTW

/thread
LL
 
Thruth said:
BTW

/thread
LL
Click to expand...
As with the suits, the wasp-waistedness is overdone. And you'd think that detail would be scaled down to Foo proprtions, but they seem exaggerated instead. I do like the box pleat, but I'd have another inch or two of length.
 
Moo's Lucanacci hourglass waist cinched silhouette might not be visible looking down from a regular person's height. Can't expect his stylist to do fittings on his knees.
 
I think if the lapels are slimmer, they would elongate his figure. I like the pleat as well, but not sure about the over exaggerated faux waist belt.
 
At what point can I pop the collar and lapels like it's a trenchcoat to deal with wind, wet or cold?
What kind of insulation or liner is acceptable?
 
Russell Street said:
Quilted stuff is out, right?
Click to expand...


Allen Smithee said:
At what point can I pop the collar and lapels like it's a trenchcoat to deal with wind, wet or cold?
What kind of insulation or liner is acceptable?
Click to expand...

Popping the collar of an overcoat is not douchy; it is self-preservation.

Decide on a liner that works best for you and the environment. Just because it is a heavy wool coat does not mean that it provides adequate insulation and wind resistance on its own. Many available coatings are in the 20 to 24 ounce range. As a comparison, the traditional melton wool (or pilot cloth) peacoat is on the order of 32 to 34 ounces.

As LKP LKP states, it can be lined with a variety of fabrics. Nothing wrong with a quilted liner if insulation is required. You could line it with shearling if you wished. Obviously it adds bulk. But there is a tradeoff between elegance and effectiveness. Might be that going to a full shearling coat is the logical step for warmth in frigid climes.
 
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