Random Style Thoughts

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
1st world problems. Make your a'tionist fashion some side adjusters.

How snug is snug? Mostly a rhetorical questions as it is verri snug if an inch makes or breaks it.
I had a preliminary fitting this morning, before she replicates the pick stitching, fits like a glove but said I can't gain the weight back now OLO. No more power yoga for me.
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
I scanned through the entire photo gallery in the SF SuSu thread. So many fit abominations, especially in the back, worthy of Reeves defunct online MTM.

Are all these people so helpless they can't order the right size nor get the proper alterations?

I do think SuSu's structured jackets like Lazio have really strange pattern in general. Luckily I'll only be going for the unstructured Havana or Hudson types.

I notice their waistcoats are cut half inch to inch too short in the back, which should be fixable with their high end custom tailoring option.
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
Ask DaNoodles how difficult that is for some.
Then again, there's nothing that a good alteration tailor can't fix in four or five fittings.
I didn't see anyone suffering Noodles' pear deformity or other serious problems.

And you should see how nice my formerly 42 now 39.5 Isaia suit fits, only three fittings and $120. My ationist enjoys the challenges of complex mens tailoring.
 

Monkeyface

Monochromatic Clothing Troll
Supporter
Messages
4,759
Ratings
5,344
I didn't see anyone suffering Noodles' pear deformity or other serious problems.

And you should see how nice my formerly 42 now 39.5 Isaia suit fits, only three fittings and $120. My ationist enjoys the challenges of complex mens tailoring.
Pics or GTFO. It basically means the entire suit needs to be recut. If she's that good, why don't you let her make w suit from scratch?
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
Pics or GTFO. It basically means the entire suit needs to be recut. If she's that good, why don't you let her make w suit from scratch?
Too cold to wear the suit out today but I'll see if I have time for an indoor pic. And not sure how you equate recutting parts (not like my shoulders shrank in width) and resewing to creating suit patterns.

The main ation 'trick' is to make sure and have a fitting with the recut parts pinned prior to sewing so any problems are visible and correctable beforehand. In fact I did have a right shoulder pulling, from the upper back taken in, that was still there after sewing which I knew would be but she was able to take in half a centimeter in 15 minutes of my final fitting to fix it.

To be honest her pick stitching was also better than what Isaia did.

And the jacket has a 30" length which is my new minimum rule. If I had ordered the 40 instead originally months ago it would be half to full inch too short.

I've read some of the SuSu thread and if their site measurements are correct, which I know usually aren't, I'll probably be a 40L in jacket and 38L in pants.
 
Last edited:

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
Went to Soho SuSu today. I tried on a 40L in Havana and Hudson which fit almost perfectly but needs an extra inch in the jacket waist. Had an SA tell me there's no way I'm a 40 and should only get 38. Told him not interested in GQ fit while I pointed to the big X across the buttoning point while I had it on for all of 10 seconds. I was really bursting the waist and pissed me off a bit he told me that was ok.

But the worst part their fabric quality of both cotton and linen suits were crap to barely mediocre at best. Noodles was right it's mostly shit. And unfortunately their "high end" custom swatch books never went beyond mediocrity either. Since I can't afford MTM from Isaia or Kiton for high end fabric, I'm guessing I have to find an independent tailor now who has access to high end fabrics?
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
19,194
Ratings
24,037
Went to Soho SuSu today. I tried on a 40L in Havana and Hudson which fit almost perfectly but needs an extra inch in the jacket waist. Had an SA tell me there's no way I'm a 40 and should only get 38. Told him not interested in GQ fit while I pointed to the big X across the buttoning point while I had it on for all of 10 seconds. I was really bursting the waist and pissed me off a bit he told me that was ok.

But the worst part their fabric quality of both cotton and linen suits were crap to barely mediocre at best. Noodles was right it's mostly shit. And unfortunately their "high end" custom swatch books never went beyond mediocrity either. Since I can't afford MTM from Isaia or Kiton for high end fabric, I'm guessing I have to find an independent tailor now who has access to high end fabrics?
Yes or find a good tailor you can do CMT with and source your own. Our Euro contingent has much experience
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
Yes or find a good tailor you can do CMT with and source your own. Our Euro contingent has much experience
I should've figured it would be impossible for anyone, much less a company of SuSu's size, to sell suits for $500 in a quality fabric.

Where do I go to find my own elite cotton or linen fabrics then?
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
19,194
Ratings
24,037
I should've figured it would be impossible for anyone, much less a company of SuSu's size, to sell suits for $500 in a quality fabric.

Where do I go to find my own elite cotton or linen fabrics then?
Well you are in NYC, check out Mood Fabrics and Beckinsteins. They have high end fabrics you can pick through or be found for you

Online:

Huddersfield Fine Worsteds - Home Page

Huddersfield Cloth - Suppliers of British Cloth to Tailors Worldwide

Sign up as a fashion student or designer

Yorkshire Fabric Limited | Cloth Merchant - Online Shop

Cottons, corduroys, velvets, performance fabrics -Brisbane Moss for fine quality fabrics

F.lli Caccioppoli: Tessuti per l'alta sartoria - Finest cloths for tayloring
Email or call them

These guys will sell you Scabal cotton, linen cotton cashmere but it is $$$

Autumn & Winter Fabrics - English & British Suit Fabrics - Savile Row of London England

There are other sources like eBay sellers on eBay UK like

Royaltex10
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
I'll try Beckenstein sometime. Wonder if there's a NY tailor that's good at the casual Italian style.

I really liked the design of the SuSu jackets, I could ask if they'd work with my own fabric but I doubt it. Probably some stupid company policy.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
19,194
Ratings
24,037
I'll try Beckenstein sometime. Wonder if there's a NY tailor that's good at the casual Italian style.

I really liked the design of the SuSu jackets, I could ask if they'd work with my own fabric but I doubt it. Probably some stupid company policy.
Go see Mr. Ned if you don't want to pay $5000. He makes Wes Anderson's corduroy suits

Pricing & Process | Mr Ned

Just walk in

Phone: 212-924-5042

Location & Hours
137 Fifth Avenue, 4th Floor
New York, New York 10010
 

Monkeyface

Monochromatic Clothing Troll
Supporter
Messages
4,759
Ratings
5,344
Their Ormezzano linen isn't bad for the price. I had a suit in it, drapes very nicely and didn't wrinkle much either. They also have a navy Solaro cotton for MTM which is very nice. I think there's also a decent wool/cotton mix, can't remember the mill.

It's best to stick to wool though. Their VBC stuff is perfectly acceptable, it's just mostly very eyetalian lightweight fabrics, but there are some good ones in the bunch.
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
I saw the navy solaro but it was only 7.5/8oz didn't have the soft hand I'm looking for.

Not sure if I saw the Ormezzano but most the linen felt like sandpaper. I'd rather have softer linen prone to wrinkling than harder rougher variety. I have a pair of Stile Latino linen pants and tried on one of their jackets once which was a really lux linen. ELITE FABRICS NOT GARBAGE.

Not interested in any wools for summer, it's 75 faren in NYC tmrw.
 

Monkeyface

Monochromatic Clothing Troll
Supporter
Messages
4,759
Ratings
5,344
I saw the navy solaro but it was only 7.5/8oz didn't have the soft hand I'm looking for.

Not sure if I saw the Ormezzano but most the linen felt like sandpaper. I'd rather have softer linen prone to wrinkling than harder rougher variety. I have a pair of Stile Latino linen pants and tried on one of their jackets once which was a really lux linen. ELITE FABRICS NOT GARBAGE.

Not interested in any wools for summer, it's 75 faren in NYC tmrw.
You don't know what you are talking about. I much prefer wool for summer. I have a suitsupply wool fresco suit. Unlined, unstructured and lightweight canvas. Wore it in July in NY last year (95-100F), and was much more comfortable than when I was wearing my linen suits.
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
You don't know what you are talking about. I much prefer wool for summer. I have a suitsupply wool fresco suit. Unlined, unstructured and lightweight canvas. Wore it in July in NY last year (95-100F), and was much more comfortable than when I was wearing my linen suits.
You should already know I'm not interested in wools in general, including cool wools. I'll go for wool flannels or tweeds for winter but that's about it. Sorry you think a $500 SuSu suit is elite wool OLOLOLOL.

And I'll never forget you tried to trap me in Luxire's self-admitted unfit tailoring programs unlike Thruth who has only led me on good menswear sources.

Or could be a case of English having questionable taste, I hear the food there is quite crap in general as well.
 
Last edited:

Monkeyface

Monochromatic Clothing Troll
Supporter
Messages
4,759
Ratings
5,344
You should already know I'm not interested in wools in general, including cool wools. I'll go for wool flannels or tweeds for winter but that's about it. Sorry you think a $500 SuSu suit is elite wool OLOLOLOL.

And I'll never forget you tried to trap me in Luxire's self-admitted unfit tailoring programs unlike Thruth who has only led me on good menswear sources.

Or could be a case of English having questionable taste, I hear the food there is quite crap in general as well.
Because it's not 500. If you pay little money you get little suit. Pay elite money and you get elite fabric.
 

FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,270
Ratings
9,545
LelandJ LelandJ How do reconcile your love of pre war fashion with the following :

1) your interest in soft lux pussy man fabrics And I am not saying that SUSU fabrics aren't shit, they probably are, but there is a wide range of choices between shit fabrics and super ELITE lux fabrics.
2) your interest in italian rtw and mtm like Kiton. kiton in lux fabric = early/mid 2000s executive look.
3) your disdain of wool.

when i take all of this into consideration you really come off like a moron.
to quote our dearly departed seamless 's advice to DaNoodles
Suicide is a decent start.
 

LelandJ

Chicken Testicle Enthusiast
Messages
6,027
Ratings
2,949
LelandJ LelandJ How do reconcile your love of pre war fashion with the following :

1) your interest in soft lux pussy man fabrics And I am not saying that SUSU fabrics aren't shit, they probably are, but there is a wide range of choices between shit fabrics and super ELITE lux fabrics.
2) your interest in italian rtw and mtm like Kiton. kiton in lux fabric = early/mid 2000s executive look.
3) your disdain of wool.

when i take all of this into consideration you really come off like a moron.
to quote our dearly departed seamless 's advice to DaNoodles
If I could vintage quality wools then I'd be all for it but most tailors are providing for contemporary business dress and assume won't find them there. I haven't tried a Kiton jacket on but some pics of their cotton/blend suits look to have more natural shoulder, it could turn out I won't like it though as you say. Their measurements are spot on for me and they usually come with 8" to 9" pant hems unlike SuSu's 7.5".
 

FriendCustomer

Awful Tie Aficionado
Messages
2,270
Ratings
9,545
Yelling like a jealous idiot won't make you right.
You sir are a jealous arrogant idiot. PRO TIP come to SD and say things like "SUSU DOES NOT OFFER ELITE LINEN NOR COTTON" around me and the people I know; on my mothers life I could make one phone call and send you back to puberty with your balls cut off and stuffed in your face, later to be found in a ditch on the outskirts of Tijuana by Polica Federal. No joke, have respect for everybody and yourself or deal with the consequences of your actions. That is grown man talk so handle your business accordingly.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
19,194
Ratings
24,037
You sir are a jealous arrogant idiot. PRO TIP come to SD and say things like "SUSU DOES NOT OFFER ELITE LINEN NOR COTTON" around me and the people I know; on my mothers life I could make one phone call and send you back to puberty with your balls cut off and stuffed in your face, later to be found in a ditch on the outskirts of Tijuana by Polica Federal. No joke, have respect for everybody and yourself or deal with the consequences of your actions. That is grown man talk so handle your business accordingly.
You will not see "SuSu" "Tijuana" "balls" in a post anywhere but at DW
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Messages
19,194
Ratings
24,037
I'm not jealous of Monkey's SuSu suits.

But I might opt for mtm SuSu suit in the mid-tier solaro navy just to have a template before I find a real tailor.
Just go MrNed. See his tissues. Why not consider wool/silk/linen tissue in unlined makeup instead of just linen. Or source it online. Many choices. Breathable and less wrinkly. Mohair/wool blend too.

Or if you are wedded to linen or cotton, see what he has
 

Monkeyface

Monochromatic Clothing Troll
Supporter
Messages
4,759
Ratings
5,344
Just go MrNed. See his tissues. Why not consider wool/silk/linen tissue in unlined makeup instead of just linen. Or source it online. Many choices. Breathable and less wrinkly. Mohair/wool blend too.

Or if you are wedded to linen or cotton, see what he has
So fresco is no good, but wool/mohair is?
 
Top Bottom