ConchitaWurst
Bespoke-Weather Forecaster
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Don't know about SF, but I know people who dealt with him directly and didn't like it. He tried to work for and with the company my boss now works for and the story is that Rory not only has a temper but also enjoys the booze a bit too much. He is (allegedly) quite brash with customers (in particular the unhappy ones, see Andrew Yamato), he likes Asian women and literally tried to hook up with some of the female workers in the China workshop.
His tailoring is rather crude and not very impressive and he never made it beyond coat maker level, not even under-striker, so calling himself "master tailor" is a bit of a stretch.
That includes all those fashion bloggers, vloggers and other "influencers" on the internet. These fashion corporations make so much money that they can afford to bid on an insanely expensive property that has a famous address, like any building on Savile Row.
When most of your profit goes towards paying overheads and you still want/ need to pay your staff and have some money left for yourself you are practically forced to raise your prices.
BTW, compared to what a car mechanic charges per hour (at least in Germany), bespoke is dead cheap given the hours that go into the garments.
Never understood this argument as you can apply it to any line of work, be it teachers, nurses, chefs or whatever. It's why bespoke is paid per garment and not for the hours that go into it.
Ultimately, I believe that prime locations such as Savile Row and Jermyn Street will not be immune to the cultural and demographic changes and they will move increasingly out to provincial cities, outlet villages and online. Most of them are already heavily online. The result will be more affordable bespoke methinks. But then again the strength of the City may still be able to keep it all going along quite nicely.
Don't know about SF, but I know people who dealt with him directly and didn't like it. He tried to work for and with the company my boss now works for and the story is that Rory not only has a temper but also enjoys the booze a bit too much. He is (allegedly) quite brash with customers (in particular the unhappy ones, see Andrew Yamato), he likes Asian women and literally tried to hook up with some of the female workers in the China workshop.
His tailoring is rather crude and not very impressive and he never made it beyond coat maker level, not even under-striker, so calling himself "master tailor" is a bit of a stretch.
Blame marketing, especially in the fashion industry. They have been pushing the brand idea for decades and now certain people connect their self worth to the clothes they wear, the car they drive, the list goes on and on.
That includes all those fashion bloggers, vloggers and other "influencers" on the internet. These fashion corporations make so much money that they can afford to bid on an insanely expensive property that has a famous address, like any building on Savile Row.
When most of your profit goes towards paying overheads and you still want/ need to pay your staff and have some money left for yourself you are practically forced to raise your prices.
BTW, compared to what a car mechanic charges per hour (at least in Germany), bespoke is dead cheap given the hours that go into the garments.
What happened with Yamato?
How do you think a tailor works out the price for the final garment?
Cachet plays a huge role in the appeal of Savile Row...
In the olden days apprenticeships lastest a few years and you had to have several years of work experience before you could move on to become a "master" (Meister). Nowadays you can start Meister training in your last year as an apprentice. How is that going to produce good craftsmen and -women?
Story goes that in return for promoting Duffy and filming the making of the suit he would get that suit for free.
Problem (allegedly) was that the suit was too big and a bit "rough" looking. And if the final video is any evidence I'd say that's true.
The videos are nicely done, promoting the rather romantic narrative of a master tailor making a garment from scratch the traditional way.
Having trained at Henry Poole is pretty much his main claim to fame. But he left shortly after the Golden Shears award and went to New York to teach at the Parson's School of Design. Rumour has it that he was hitting on the female students, which has cost him his marriage (Asian wife).
The Academy courses are held in his late grandfather's house at quite a hefty price tag. Not sure he's good enough to charge such prices.
From what I've heard most tailoring classes at colleges (and even at Maurice Sedwell's "Academy") are basically all rip-offs and the students have not really a clue about tailoring when they eventually get a real apprenticeship at a proper tailoring house.
Poor teaching is one of the main problems, not only in tailoring though. Once you loose the old, knowledgeable staff you are practically left with less qualified teachers.
I took a pattern making class in Hamburg at Müller & Sohn in the 90's. First teacher was a German-Russian woman with a lot of experience.
As it's now common in the textile industry, the majority of students were female (I was the only male one).
Since that woman wasn't handing out participation trophies and I did rather well there were quickly complaints about how she treated the girls unfairly and that I got better marks because I was a man. In the end she lost her job and was replaced with another Russian woman who had just finished the same kind of course and had absolutely no clue, not to mention her poor language skills (also rather unattractive, no wonder they let her leave the Soviet Union.)
So in the end you have mediocre teachers and students and eventually a shitty product, because the people responsible have no fucking idea about how to improve it.
In the olden days apprenticeships lastest a few years and you had to have several years of work experience before you could move on to become a "master" (Meister). Nowadays you can start Meister training in your last year as an apprentice. How is that going to produce good craftsmen and -women?
Steamin Darren Beaman
Story goes that in return for promoting Duffy and filming the making of the suit he would get that suit for free.
Problem (allegedly) was that the suit was too big and a bit "rough" looking. And if the final video is any evidence I'd say that's true.
The videos are nicely done, promoting the rather romantic narrative of a master tailor making a garment from scratch the traditional way.
Having trained at Henry Poole is pretty much his main claim to fame. But he left shortly after the Golden Shears award and went to New York to teach at the Parson's School of Design. Rumour has it that he was hitting on the female students, which has cost him his marriage (Asian wife).
The Academy courses are held in his late grandfather's house at quite a hefty price tag. Not sure he's good enough to charge such prices.
From what I've heard most tailoring classes at colleges (and even at Maurice Sedwell's "Academy") are basically all rip-offs and the students have not really a clue about tailoring when they eventually get a real apprenticeship at a proper tailoring house.
Poor teaching is one of the main problems, not only in tailoring though. Once you loose the old, knowledgeable staff you are practically left with less qualified teachers.
I took a pattern making class in Hamburg at Müller & Sohn in the 90's. First teacher was a German-Russian woman with a lot of experience.
As it's now common in the textile industry, the majority of students were female (I was the only male one).
Since that woman wasn't handing out participation trophies and I did rather well there were quickly complaints about how she treated the girls unfairly and that I got better marks because I was a man. In the end she lost her job and was replaced with another Russian woman who had just finished the same kind of course and had absolutely no clue, not to mention her poor language skills (also rather unattractive, no wonder they let her leave the Soviet Union.)
So in the end you have mediocre teachers and students and eventually a shitty product, because the people responsible have no fucking idea about how to improve it.
In the olden days apprenticeships lastest a few years and you had to have several years of work experience before you could move on to become a "master" (Meister). Nowadays you can start Meister training in your last year as an apprentice. How is that going to produce good craftsmen and -women?
jolinlovesjunya said:Regarding the recent news about English Cut and Thomas Mahon..
I think every story has two sides. I do not want to come here to argue with anyone as I am not inside this business, but I do want to tell the other side of the story from the perspective of a customer and friend. I think as time goes on, truth will reveal more and majority of people will eventually see who is lying here.
As I know, English Cut was put into administration due to the fact that Thomas Mahon have been manipulating the money side of the business. It was his hands that made the company “… was put in a vulnerable position.” A lot of customers associate Thomas Mahon with English Cut and consider him as the only figure of the brand. The truth is he cannot do this without his investors who put over $3 million into the company. But his ego grew to some extent that he treated himself as the executive and spend investor’s money in whatever way he likes.
Also, the success of English Cut belongs to all those hard working artisans behind the company, those who actually make every single garments for Thomas Mahon. When Thomas mentioned in his post saying “key staff left with him voluntarily.” How heroic! The truth is only one person who is also his babysitter left with him. EVERYONE else chose to stay with the company they love. Including the people who actually designed the products – chief operation and products, Head Coat Maker, Paul Griffith. I am sure some of you know Griff personally and how he has been as a friend. You can testify yourselves.
Why EVERYONE not follow Thomas Mahon? If he is indeed so great as he describes himself, why he has to lie about the situation? Here’s more truth that may explain why, which Thomas failed to mention at all in his post. He actually tried to force the company into liquidation on PAYDAY at the end of July! But later he found out that the company was already in administration. So he called all the staff in the London and Boston shops and told them three things. 1) The company is facing liquidation and all of them are no longer need. (By whom? Is that you? Tom?) 2) The staff will not be paid for the past month of work. (Who give you the right to do so?) 3) Turn off the lights, go home and lock the doors on the way out. The staff in the office witness all these in person. A month’s wages not to be paid – on their payday – despite the fact that the investor have provided sufficient funding for wages. This was exactly the “grim” that Thomas was talking about. But he only chose to tell his version of story.
I know this doesn’t sound pleasing for our community. But I do think all these people behind the brand of English Cut deserve to be heard. Again, I am not here to bring justice or anything. I think legal process will eventually let people know the truth. However, like I said, you all know some of these people above. Please go confirm yourself if you are curious.
That doesn't sound anymore accurate then Mahon's fantasy. I'm sure the truth is somewhere in the middle, as usual.very good post about mahon situation over on fok forum
£3 million you have to really go some 5 star snorting cocaine off dominatrix boots and being bribed to not release the film to blow that on expenses.
If you really want to loose a lot of money invest in the wrong business, play the Forex or stock market. Or gamble it away. Paying your mortgage, fancy car and the occasional, high class escort will diminish your money as well.
Well, setting up 2 shops in what I figure would not be a cheap neighbourhood will have taken up some of that money. Perhaps the landlord wanted the rent paid upfront for a certain number of months, plus the security.
The question is at what point the investors thought "enough is enough" and pulled the safety line?
I'm confident I could do it.£3 million you have to really go some 5 star snorting cocaine off dominatrix boots and being bribed to not release the film to blow that on expenses.
Once got halfway through shooting a suit for ebay when I found the inside of the pants absolutely caked with dried feces. Not sure if it was he or I who had the worse day.Enough cannot be said about thorough inspection in store.
My wife would always help me at thrift stores checking for certain name brands. She would start in sport coats, then outerwear, and finally ties. One day, while examining a pair of pants, she found some rather fresh deposits in the seat of a pair of slacks. Now, she will only search the ties... period. Plus, I am forbidden to bring any complete suits in the house unless they have been THOROUGHLY searched for dark matter.Once got halfway through shooting a suit for ebay when I found the inside of the pants absolutely caked with dried feces. Not sure if it was he or I who had the worse day.Enough cannot be said about thorough inspection in store.
My opinion is this: that kind of business has to keep in a small niche as they're too small to operate and compete as a brand and their market sector is always going to be limited and will reach a saturation point at one stage where the business reaches a plateau and stays there, nods along quite nicely for a one shareholder enterprise.
So the take home lesson is NEVER buy a second hand pair pf Ambrosi trousers.My wife would always help me at thrift stores checking for certain name brands. She would start in sport coats, then outerwear, and finally ties. One day, while examining a pair of pants, she found some rather fresh deposits in the seat of a pair of slacks. Now, she will only search the ties... period. Plus, I am forbidden to bring any complete suits in the house unless they have been THOROUGHLY searched for dark matter.
Looks like it sorta worked for Liverano and Ambrosi. Although I'm sure there are some foreign investors behind them as well.
I quite like the signature style of Ambrosi's trousers, with the high waist, pleats and the quirky waistband. But the cost is ridiculous. If I could get a tailor here to do something similar, for the right price, in the right chino mustard colour and grey/blue flannel for winter I could be tempted. But it's a question of which tailor could you trust? I've not seen any examples of anything similar. Might take a look on their websites.
But the cost would likely be prohibitive, I wouldn't pay no more than at a great, great stretch €400. That would be the absolute limit. Would gladly pay €250-300. But that will be in the off-the-peg range for these guys.
Cerrato and Mola would charge you 350€ in Naples (CMT, though) and I'm sure there are other trousersmakers that charge that amount for a pair of trousers in Naples.
I've just received three pairs from Cerrato and they are comparable to Ambrosi's in terms of style and handwork. My first pair from Cerrato took two fittings to get the perfect fit. Next batch one fitting. Now I'm pretty confident to order remotely.
Ambrosi's prices are offensive.
350 cmt is still a big fat tourist price
And for m. brosi the price depends on who you are and who introduced you, as always in southland
I quite like the signature style of Ambrosi's trousers, with the high waist, pleats and the quirky waistband. But the cost is ridiculous. If I could get a tailor here to do something similar, for the right price, in the right chino mustard colour and grey/blue flannel for winter I could be tempted. But it's a question of which tailor could you trust? I've not seen any examples of anything similar. Might take a look on their websites.
But the cost would likely be prohibitive, I wouldn't pay no more than at a great, great stretch €400. That would be the absolute limit. Would gladly pay €250-300. But that will be in the off-the-peg range for these guys.
Its all those bloody buttons in the fly that I couldn't cope with! Imagine, being coked up, and pissed up trying to take a leak with those bloody things. With that 3 mill expenses I'm sure you could get someone to fasten/unfasten 'em for you 'suppose...
...sniff...
Would you even notice/ care in that situation?