Sartorial Stories In The News

Thruth said:
Supreme sold to VF Corp (The North Face, Vans, Timberland, Dickies, Icebreaker, Smartwool and others) for $2.1 billion.
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$2.1 billion? It'll take a lot of overpriced box logo t-shirts (plus branded bricks and hammers) to make that back.
 
Journeyman said:
$2.1 billion? It'll take a lot of overpriced box logo t-shirts (plus branded bricks and hammers) to make that back.
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It will take a little bit but the plan is to spread the brand big time. not unlike how TNF went from respected gear maker to lifestyle brand or how Canada Goose was loosed on the masses with money and no brains.
 
I didn't know where to put this. I was unaware that Michael Kuhle from Epaulet has transitioned to a woman.
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Thruth said:
I didn't know where to put this. I was unaware that Michael Kuhle from Epaulet has transitioned to a woman.
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From a Reddit "Ask Me Anything" thread from February 2020:

I was formerly Michael Kuhle until last year, so if you ever met a guy with mutton chops and flannel pants, that was me. Luckily I'm still just as much of a menswear nerd as ever. The mutton chops got retired though.


 
I haven't seen their clothes in quite some time. I remember when they were popular on the other forum and had their own thread. You hit the nail on the head with the H&M comparison. They looked cheap. I imagine it's still more of the same.

Also, I thought he had a wife?
 
ballmouse said:
I haven't seen their clothes in quite some time. I remember when they were popular on the other forum and had their own thread. You hit the nail on the head with the H&M comparison. They looked cheap. I imagine it's still more of the same.

Also, I thought he had a wife?
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Adele is his wife. He also has a 12 year-old daughter. Quality of Epaulet is not H&M level.
 
Didn't mean to suggest the quality was H&M level. They used good manufacturers. I meant the style or design of clothes looked like something you would find in H&M or another 'fast fashion' type of store.
 
ballmouse said:
Didn't mean to suggest the quality was H&M level. They used good manufacturers. I meant the style or design of clothes looked like something you would find in H&M or another 'fast fashion' type of store.
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I only have trousers by them and they were tatesful
 
Thruth said:
I only have trousers by them and they were tatesful
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From memory, Epaulet's trousers are/were made in the USA by Hertling.

I haven't paid much attention to Epaulet for some years, but they commissioned some excellent models from Carmina some years back.
 
Is it just about politics, people wanting their shirts made in Vietnam, India or Malaysia over China? Or do they think there is a difference in quality?

CT in the USA is a bit of a mess. Their strength is that they make well fitting shirts dirt cheap (4 for $100!) with quality on par with other cheap brands. Instead of capitalizing on this, they are opening bricks or mortar stores trying to compete with Brooks Brothers.
 
I mean, it's obviously politics I would think?

I actually have never bought CT shirts so I can't speak to the quality on that end. I did get some trousers about 10 years ago for working in the field. The customer service was very good. Thats about the totality of my experience.
 
doghouse said:
I mean, it's obviously politics I would think?

I actually have never bought CT shirts so I can't speak to the quality on that end. I did get some trousers about 10 years ago for working in the field. The customer service was very good. Thats about the totality of my experience.
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Never used them. They used to be mail order like Lewin. Used Lewin once for a three shirt deal. Shrinkage and collar tips turning in, after a wash, meant I never bought from them again. I suspected Tyrwhitt would be similar.
 
CT fabric is stiff and scratchy, but they are sturdy and offer a variety of fits that you can get a pretty neat look for cheap (especially for those of us with broad shoulders and slim waists). I also like that they provide metal collar stays, not the cheap plastic that competitors use.

Right before the pandemic they opened up a Brooks Brothers style shop in a lux mall, next to Tiffany’s and deBeers. I don’t see that going well for them.
 
doghouse said:
I actually have never bought CT shirts so I can't speak to the quality on that end. I did get some trousers about 10 years ago for working in the field. The customer service was very good. Thats about the totality of my experience.
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I've mainly had trousers from them - their "moleskin" (actually not moleskin fabric, but still a thick, durable cotton) have been really good and I've got a pair that must be ten or more years old. Their corduroy trousers are good, too, and are hardy and wear well.

I bought a couple of their shirts about 15 years ago but didn't like them very much. As Dropbear Dropbear notes, the great thing about CT is the ability to choose from three different fits, with the ability to fine-tune both collar and sleeve length. However, the collars had a thick interlining and were very stiff and thus quite uncomfortable.
 
Kingstonian said:
Never used them. They used to be mail order like Lewin. Used Lewin once for a three shirt deal. Shrinkage and collar tips turning in, after a wash, meant I never bought from them again. I suspected Tyrwhitt would be similar.
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My brother had his work shirts from them. I only noticed because of his ironing pile a few visits back. They strike me as a bit ex-Brit footballer turned commentator style.
Journeyman said:
I've mainly had trousers from them - their "moleskin" (actually not moleskin fabric, but still a thick, durable cotton) have been really good and I've got a pair that must be ten or more years old. Their corduroy trousers are good, too, and are hardy and wear well.

I bought a couple of their shirts about 15 years ago but didn't like them very much. As Dropbear Dropbear notes, the great thing about CT is the ability to choose from three different fits, with the ability to fine-tune both collar and sleeve length. However, the collars had a thick interlining and were very stiff and thus quite uncomfortable.
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That's were BB went wrong, several different fits and fine tuning, which one for you? A total nightmare for online ordering.

If they up their game to compete at the T&A level a regards cloth and quality then they could be on a winner. Plenty of exploitative sweat shops in the UK, but if done right, on the T&A model then good luck to them.
 
Untermensch said:
That D***** (wtf is this title?) bloke seems to think he's Boyer. Long-winded, full of himself, thinks the universe ends on America's borders, worships the orthodox list of sartorial celebrities, and desperate to squeeze profound philosophical meanings out of anything.
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He is like many bloggers...little boys trying to be the teacher without spending the time needed to be a good student first. Kids these days want instant gratification...they all want to be the experts, but they haven't put in the many years to earn that status. His knowledge is very general and simple, but he tries to play the role of an expert, and when he is called out on it he does NOT like it.

I called him out on his shoe knowledge once, and he got very upset. He lacks the most basic understanding of the shoemaking process, and when I mentioned his gaps he burrowed down even deeper to defend his foolish ideas. Eg, he got measured by a salesman under the delusion that it is part of the bespoke process. He got a bad result and complained. He then relied on salesmen to fix the ill fitting shoe and continued to get ill fitting shoes. He couldn't get into his head that using a salesman to measure for bespoke is not real bespoke, and l called him naive for falling for the con because he doesn't know any better. This lad needs to go back to school and learn his subjects properly before he goes positioning himself as an expert.

Some of these types are not on the forums to learn, they are there to teach and pump up their egos. The problem is that they make forums mediocre, they spoil the tone of the place. Style Forum has gone down hill because too many know-nothings (bloggers) are trying to be the teacher instead of being the student.
 
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The Shooman said:
I called him out on his shoe knowledge once, and he got very upset. He lacks the most basic understanding of the shoemaking process, and when I mentioned his gaps he burrowed down even deeper to defend his foolish ideas. Eg, he got measured by a salesman under the delusion that it is part of the bespoke process.
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In that case, Shooey, wouldn't that mean that virtually none of the bespoke shoemakers actually make bespoke shoes?

If you have a pair made by a small shoemaker, such as Templeman or Fukuda, you will most likely be measured by the shoemaker or someone closely linked to the shoemaking process. However, for most companies including those such as Cleverley, G&G and others, you're usually measured by a salesperson, a frontman, a manager - you're not being measured by a lastmaker or shoemaker (of course, if I'm wrong in this, please let me know!).
 
Journeyman said:
In that case, Shooey, wouldn't that mean that virtually none of the bespoke shoemakers actually make bespoke shoes?

If you have a pair made by a small shoemaker, such as Templeman or Fukuda, you will most likely be measured by the shoemaker or someone closely linked to the shoemaking process. However, for most companies including those such as Cleverley, G&G and others, you're usually measured by a salesperson, a frontman, a manager - you're not being measured by a lastmaker or shoemaker (of course, if I'm wrong in this, please let me know!).
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Makes sense. Unless you go to a one man band who does everything like Dmitri Gomez.

As seen on Kirby Allison. You will be awe struck and phoning for pizza once you have seen it.
 
Journeyman said:
In that case, Shooey, wouldn't that mean that virtually none of the bespoke shoemakers actually make bespoke shoes?
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Journeyman said:
If you have a pair made by a small shoemaker, such as Templeman or Fukuda, you will most likely be measured by the shoemaker or someone closely linked to the shoemaking process. However, for most companies including those such as Cleverley, G&G and others, you're usually measured by a salesperson, a frontman, a manager - you're not being measured by a lastmaker or shoemaker (of course, if I'm wrong in this, please let me know!).
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Kirby got measured by Daniel Wegan at G&G. l got looked after by the lastmaker at Cleverley, but only because l insisted Teemu fly over; liucky l did because the CEO's measurements of my feet and everyone elses were miles off, so Teemu had to clean up the mess.

If you are gullible enough to get measured by the frontman or manager, this might happen. The same thing happened to D***** because he is gullible and doesn't know any better.



Like George Glasgow told igents "you are not ready for bespoke Cleverley". No truer words said. Too many of them are trying to enter a world they don't belong in. I believe Olga Berluti says the same thing. I also say the same thing. Easy to tell the guys who aren't ready...they are the clueless ones with blank looks in their eyes. D***** would be like that...a little boy trying to be part of a man's world; even the blokes here can tell from the vibes he gives off.....punching well above his weight. The boy needs to learn his place. Alan Bee certainly set him straight last time, but as usual he goes to butter and can't handle a man to boy talk.

Surely at Lobb they get the experts to measure you and not a front door person??

A man gets bespoke to have experts give their input all the way through, so why is one relying on a salesman to do the job of an expert? A lastmaker needs to understand a client's feet and needs, so a set of measurements isn't enough. True bespoke is not a bunch of measurements, it is an understanding of the clients needs. These folks that get measurements taken by a salesmen don't know this...they are easy to cut corners on and take for a ride.
 
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The Shooman said:
Kirby got measured by Daniel Wegan at G&G. l got looked after by the lastmaker at Cleverley, but only because l insisted Teemu fly over; liucky l did because the CEO's measurements of my feet and everyone elses were miles off, so Teemu had to clean up the mess.

If you are gullible enough to get measured by the frontman or manager, this might happen. The same thing happened to Die Workwear because he is gullible and doesn't know any better.



Like George Glasgow told igents "you are not ready for bespoke Cleverley". No truer words said. Too many of them are trying to enter a world they don't belong in. I believe Olga Berluti says the same thing. I also say the same thing. Easy to tell the guys who aren't ready...they are the clueless ones with blank looks in their eyes. Die Workwear would be like that...a little boy trying to be part of a man's world; even the blokes here can tell from the vibes he gives off.....punching well above his weight. The boy needs to learn his place. Alan Bee certainly set him straight last time, but as usual he goes to butter and can't handle a man to boy talk.

Surely at Lobb they get the experts to measure you and not a front door person??

A man gets bespoke to have experts give their input all the way through, so why is one relying on a salesman to do the job of an expert? A lastmaker needs to understand a client's feet and needs, so a set of measurements isn't enough. True bespoke is not a bunch of measurements, it is an understanding of the clients needs. These folks that get measurements taken by a salesmen don't know this...they are easy to cut corners on and take for a ride.
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Even Dmitri does not always get it right first time.

www.kirbyallison.com

Dimitri Gomez: Bespoke Shoe Fitting

Kirby Allison visits Parisian bespoke shoemaker, Dimitri Gomez to pick up his pair of bespoke shoes that he had fitted for in October 2016. Dimitri Gomez is a well-respected custom shoe maker in Paris who is a true master of the craft. Gomez is one of the few shoemakers that can take the...
www.kirbyallison.com www.kirbyallison.com
 
Kingstonian said:
Even Dmitri does not always get it right first time.

www.kirbyallison.com

Dimitri Gomez: Bespoke Shoe Fitting

Kirby Allison visits Parisian bespoke shoemaker, Dimitri Gomez to pick up his pair of bespoke shoes that he had fitted for in October 2016. Dimitri Gomez is a well-respected custom shoe maker in Paris who is a true master of the craft. Gomez is one of the few shoemakers that can take the...
www.kirbyallison.com www.kirbyallison.com
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Yeah l know, but that doesn't mean you should be getting salesmen to measure your feet, that is asking for trouble, and it is not part of the bespoke process. Then again, if you have no concept of fit and you are easy to satisfy then l suppose it is o.k. There are plenty of those guys around.

Besides, it doesn't mean Dimitri is a fool. Some people are very difficult to fit, and it might take multiple goes, and some famous makers even give up because they can't fit them. If your feet are reasonably flat, you can be really tough to fit because your feet can be completely different in the standing and sitting positions.
 
The Shooman said:
Kirby got measured by Daniel Wegan at G&G. l got looked after by the lastmaker at Cleverley, but only because l insisted Teemu fly over; liucky l did because the CEO's measurements of my feet and everyone elses were miles off, so Teemu had to clean up the mess.

If you are gullible enough to get measured by the frontman or manager, this might happen. The same thing happened to Die Workwear because he is gullible and doesn't know any better.



Like George Glasgow told igents "you are not ready for bespoke Cleverley". No truer words said. Too many of them are trying to enter a world they don't belong in. I believe Olga Berluti says the same thing. I also say the same thing. Easy to tell the guys who aren't ready...they are the clueless ones with blank looks in their eyes. Die Workwear would be like that...a little boy trying to be part of a man's world; even the blokes here can tell from the vibes he gives off.....punching well above his weight. The boy needs to learn his place. Alan Bee certainly set him straight last time, but as usual he goes to butter and can't handle a man to boy talk.

Surely at Lobb they get the experts to measure you and not a front door person??

A man gets bespoke to have experts give their input all the way through, so why is one relying on a salesman to do the job of an expert? A lastmaker needs to understand a client's feet and needs, so a set of measurements isn't enough. True bespoke is not a bunch of measurements, it is an understanding of the clients needs. These folks that get measurements taken by a salesmen don't know this...they are easy to cut corners on and take for a ride.
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Silvano is a great man, a great classical dresser ( not a buffone) and maybe the best shoemaker around.

Sarto met him and told me while let me 1 euro for coffee
 
The Shooman said:
He is like many bloggers...little boys trying to be the teacher without spending the time needed to be a good student first. Kids these days want instant gratification...they all want to be the experts, but they haven't put in the many years to earn that status. His knowledge is very general and simple, but he tries to play the role of an expert, and when he is called out on it he does NOT like it.

I called him out on his shoe knowledge once, and he got very upset. He lacks the most basic understanding of the shoemaking process, and when I mentioned his gaps he burrowed down even deeper to defend his foolish ideas. Eg, he got measured by a salesman under the delusion that it is part of the bespoke process. He got a bad result and complained. He then relied on salesmen to fix the ill fitting shoe and continued to get ill fitting shoes. He couldn't get into his head that using a salesman to measure for bespoke is not real bespoke, and l called him naive for falling for the con because he doesn't know any better. This lad needs to go back to school and learn his subjects properly before he goes positioning himself as an expert.

Some of these types are not on the forums to learn, they are there to teach and pump up their egos. The problem is that they make forums mediocre, they spoil the tone of the place. Style Forum has gone down hill because too many know-nothings (bloggers) are trying to be the teacher instead of being the student.
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Die Work is an integrated psychopath or a malignant narcissistic as Sarto the now psychologist told me when he was student.

That inferior rice three delices deliver shill spammed all around the other forum bs Sarto via private messages sent in bulk using his famous comission to Finamore
saying that was made himself as prove of how bad tailor was him.

Coward bullshitters that act on the back, since face to face are way easy to debunk, as Sarto did showing the date of his post
with that pic, years before he started as High Tailoring student.

That inferior is the classic that needs expensive clothes, cars etc to show off so they believe they are over the rest, while in their inner, they can´t stand their deep complexes of inferiority.

Exact same profile as FuckFok, other integrated classless psychopath and also of the same kind Chinavirus.

People burn to destroy, never to create.

You have described very well those condition, I give you my aproval with A note.

How many psychopaths has discovered Sarto already who for real do punctuate quite high on the Psychopathy Checklist PCL-R?

Marcodinarco
Cravatenoir
Conchito
Fuckfok
Dieworkshill
TheFrenchSkeletor blogger
Spaniardbloggers
Craptom ( what a scammer and liar)
Gianni CACArruti that degenerate
Orazio LuciANAL

Any other I forgot?
 
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Lumpen said:
Silvano is a great man, a great classical dresser ( not a buffone) and maybe the best shoemaker around.

Sarto met him and told me while let me 1 euro for coffee
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Yes, my understanding is that Silvano is the best shoemaker around and makes the best shoes. Why? He can make anything in any construction, and he uses a vintage leather that other bespoke makers can't begin to match in quality.

I wonder who Lattanzi is; he spends a fortune buying all this large stock of old leather because he is fanatical about quality, and l wonder if he has even broken even or if his shoemaking will be a big money loser for him. Maybe he comes from old money and profit doesn't matter.

He wanted to sell me these last year. The most perfect shoes I have ever seen with great creativity, but at $36,000 l balked. Would have been well worth it, but at those prices l just couldn't do it.

I respect Lattanzi a lot! He invested so much money to ensure a lifetime of the highest quality not being guaranteed a profit. For him their seems to be no other option...the highest quality or nothing.
Lattanzi alligator norvegese 18,000 euro.jpg
 
The Shooman said:
Yes, my understanding is that Silvano is the best shoemaker around and makes the best shoes. Why? He can make anything in any construction, and he uses a vintage leather that other bespoke makers can't begin to match in quality.

I wonder who Lattanzi is; he spends a fortune buying all this large stock of old leather because he is fanatical about quality, and l wonder if he has even broken even or if his shoemaking will be a big money loser for him. Maybe he comes from old money and profit doesn't matter.

He wanted to sell me these last year. The most perfect shoes I have ever seen with great creativity, but at $36,000 l balked. Would have been well worth it, but at those prices l just couldn't do it.

I respect Lattanzi a lot! He invested so much money to ensure a lifetime of the highest quality not being guaranteed a profit. For him their seems to be no other option...the highest quality or nothing.
View attachment 36416
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For what I know, he made it all from scratch, he was lucky to get the late 70´s and early 80´s hype of Italian clothes in USA so made a lot of cash. He is a perfection maniac as you said.

36.000$, are lizard or cocodrile? Mate has a horrible last and look, is this trolling?
 
Lumpen said:
Die Work is an integrated psychopath or a malignant narcissistic as Sarto the now psychologist told me when he was student.

That inferior rice three delices deliver shill spammed all around the other forum bs Sarto using his famous comission to Finamore
saying that was made himself as prove of how bad tailor was him.

Coward bullshitters that act on the back, since face to face are way easy to debunk, as Sarto did showing the date of his post
with that pic, years before he started as High Tailoring student.

That inferior is the classic that needs expensive clothes, cars etc to show off so they believe they are over the rest, while in their inner, they can´t stand their deep complexes of inferiority.

Exact same profile as FuckFok, other integrated classless psychopath and also of the same kind Chinavirus.

People burn to destroy, never to create.

You have described very well those condition, I give you my aproval with A note.

How many psychopaths has discovered Sarto already who for real do punctuate quite high on the Psychopathy Checklist PCL-R?

Marcodinarco
Cravatenoir
Conchito
Fuckfok
Dieworkshill
TheFrenchSkeletor blogger
Spaniardbloggers
Craptom ( what a scammer and liar)
Gianni CACArruti that degenerate
Orazio LuciANAL

Any other I forgot?
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.............
 
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Lumpen said:
For what I know, he made it all from scratch, he was lucky to get the late 70´s and early 80´s hype of Italian clothes in USA so made a lot of cash. He is a perfection maniac as you said.

36.000$, are lizard or cocodrile? Mate has a horrible last and look, is this trolling?
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I remember now, he did make his money from scratch. He used to peddle shoes from his car. Gotta respect that fella for his commitment.

That last and shoo has a unique Lattanzi-ness to it. It is him through and through, and the quirkiness is genius. I told him last year that the spot of yellow around the edge of the stitching around the toe was perfection and genius to the look, and typical of his great shoo mind, and Lattanzi at immediately knew I was a unique shoomen able to recognise something few men would be able to...he knew l noticed the smallest of details and understood his great mind, and he stated I was a great lover of shoos. He knew l recognised true greatness.
 
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The Shooman said:
I don't want to say too much bad stuff about others because l have already said too much, but l can see the aggression and inferiority complexes of various folks on the forums. They don't like honest feedback that is critical, but they love to be adored and respected. Everyone has their flaws and acts differently, but it must be really tiring having to live like some of these people do. Some post too much, but they love the attention. Horrible lives.
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If you spend a few minutes reading what the NPD or APD, Narcissistic Personality Disorder or the Antisocial one, you inmediately will focus some of those. Also those cowards like to act in group when they want an innocent get banned, since they can´t face the truth, need the power of the blind masses or accomplices on this case. Sadly the owner of that business, because is simply a business to enrich him as other deep psychopath plenty of complexes ( my God he looks as a delincuent, classless inferior), doesn´t wants people saying the truth about the ones who pay him, as Gianni the scammer or other affiliates so accomplices of the crime.

What can you spect of an inmigrant who dares to insult half the population of USA and real Americans, not a fake one as he is the thirdclasser, insulting them as he did, I got captures of it.

Advertisers with dignity should inmediately quit from that, but almost all what is advertised there is absolute crap for igents, that by any reason could be in the same rack of shop as Kiton or Attolini since their target are just igent idiots wannabes with low income instead of Kiton ones that get bored of counting so many millions. Sad but true
 
The Shooman said:
I remember now, he did make his money from scratch. He used to peddle shoes from his car. Gotta respect that fella for his commitment.

That last and shoo has a unique Lattanzi-ness to it. It is him through and through, and the quirkiness is genius. I told him last year that the spot of yellow around the edge of the stitching around the toe was perfection and genius to the look, and typical of his great shoo mind, and Lattanzi at immediately knew I was a unique shoomen able to recognise something few men would be able to...he knew l noticed the smallest of details and understood his great mind, and he stated I was a great lover of shoos. He knew l recognised true greatness.
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Well, those unshoes are perfect for Cocodrile Dundee IV, nothing more.
 
The Shooman said:
Lumpen, l do see what you are saying. That place seems like a cult where certain types are a protected species, and they don't seem to live in reality. Doesn't give off good vibes, it is very cold. They talk a lot of rubbish too. These people are not their to learn anything, they are there to promote themselves and be mini cult leaders. The good posters mainly left a long time ago.

That other place is unique too. Many cranky oddball people posting there.
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Sarto has used that forum lately for Psychology studies since it´s a goldmine of personality disorders, starting from the owner and several mods as well and most of the posters, as you say the good ones left 10 years ago.

Other who post compulsively as Piobaire, Indiana etc. are deep lumpens with deep personality issues, what makes an idiot to live in a forum and posting every 2 minutes, has no work, or works as vigilante in a lost place or parking and only has a forum instead of tons of different hobbies or things to do to improve whatever lack?

By any reason I would not like to be on their shoes... what a losers, inmatures, searching for a magical mana that dignifies them, as they believe clothes are, a Superman like disguise so they can show dignous or even superior to the rest, knowing how inferior they feel.

That exact mental process is with drugs and sects, looking for something to release their traumas and suffer.
 
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