The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

The Shooman

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While checking out the shoos and suits of Prince Andrew last night l found some great shots of the 97 year old Prince Phillip's shoos. The shape and the bottom of the shoos scream John Lobb London bespoke.


Prince William and Harry and Phillip all show off their John Lobb London bespoke shoos. See....they don't need countless shoos, nor do they need fancy flashy shoos, they just need classic manly old money shoos that they keep in good repair.

upload photos without account


One of the most interesting shots of all. A real treat. Notice a complete leather heel with nails all around with no rubber moon piece. Very classic JLL. The Prince does them the old fashioned way and it's just the way l like it.
cdn images


Prince Harry also wears BIG John Lobb London. Those shoos always wear so nicely. Beautiful. Such old school classics...stunning shape! Prince Charles' and William's both have that classic Lobb London look....a true old school gentleman look. I really get the look.
Royals 3.jpg
 
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walker

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while we can't talk often enough about rubber soles, do you agree fxh fxh

from the famous japanese shoes thread:

I just went to JoeWorks as well the other day. A very genuine experience in a quiet area of Tokyo. Good Service.

I was asked weather I wanted Dainite or Vibram sole. They recommended Vibram, stating that the rubber quality was better. I was under the impression that Dainite was the gold standard for a rubber city sole. Any ideas? It is clear that Vibram has ripped the design from Dainite. Question remains, is the remake better than the original?

Good lord, vibram offers a three digit number of styles and pattern and this dumb fool talks about plagiarism, sheez.

Hi. What I had from Joe Works is Ridgeway pattern by Vibram.

Having said that I have Dainite from other maker and Dainite pattern from Vibram in the past. Here is my experience and information from cobbler and shoe makers.

1) Vibarm stud is lower (slightly lower profile.
2) Vibram rubber is softer
3) Vibram is less slippery (especially when new).

I think 3) is may be related to shorter studs.
One cobbler told me he prefers Dainite rubber because it is harder and more enduring. but I could not see the difference from my daily use.
Dainite is super slippery on wet and flat surface when new. Vibram is less slippery when new from my experience.

dumb fool 1:

thanks - very helpful! I'm normally quite conservative when it comes to try new soles, as new makers normally cut corners to lower the cost. I'll stick with Vibram this time around - see how it plays out


actually, I leave it at that ...
 

Kingstonian

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I have Dainite and Commando soles which are very different. I like Dainite for city shoes but I have no experience of similar type of sole from a different manufacturer. I would be willing to try them if they were on a shoe I liked though.
 

sirloin

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Living in the backwaters of the nordics, I'm not exposed to big brand shoo stores normally. Only this week in Paris, I saw JM Weston for the first time in one of their flagship stores. Liked everything (but the prices.. ha!). Demi-chase totally makes sense and I want it, the jodhpur has a nice rounded shape to the toe where my CJ is too sharp, loafer and Chelsea both have that extra little something to them. Something for me to consider in the future.
 

Lobbster

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J.M. Weston are fantastic and thankfully very underrated among the iGents. The staff in their stores are among the friendliest and most helpful I've ever come across. Their website doesn't show this but every model comes in two or three widths and their styling is quite varied with at least two or three models for every taste. How much are a pair of demi-chasse these days?
 

fxh

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while we can't talk often enough about rubber soles, do you agree fxh fxh

from the famous japanese shoes thread:

I just went to JoeWorks as well the other day. A very genuine experience in a quiet area of Tokyo. Good Service.

I was asked weather I wanted Dainite or Vibram sole. They recommended Vibram, stating that the rubber quality was better. I was under the impression that Dainite was the gold standard for a rubber city sole. Any ideas? It is clear that Vibram has ripped the design from Dainite. Question remains, is the remake better than the original?

Good lord, vibram offers a three digit number of styles and pattern and this dumb fool talks about plagiarism, sheez.

Hi. What I had from Joe Works is Ridgeway pattern by Vibram.

Having said that I have Dainite from other maker and Dainite pattern from Vibram in the past. Here is my experience and information from cobbler and shoe makers.

1) Vibarm stud is lower (slightly lower profile.
2) Vibram rubber is softer
3) Vibram is less slippery (especially when new).

I think 3) is may be related to shorter studs.
One cobbler told me he prefers Dainite rubber because it is harder and more enduring. but I could not see the difference from my daily use.
Dainite is super slippery on wet and flat surface when new. Vibram is less slippery when new from my experience.

dumb fool 1:

thanks - very helpful! I'm normally quite conservative when it comes to try new soles, as new makers normally cut corners to lower the cost. I'll stick with Vibram this time around - see how it plays out


actually, I leave it at that ...
Dainite is dangerous. I've slipped arse over tit on wet decking with it. And nearly slipped lots of times.
 

sirloin

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J.M. Weston are fantastic and thankfully very underrated among the iGents. The staff in their stores are among the friendliest and most helpful I've ever come across. Their website doesn't show this but every model comes in two or three widths and their styling is quite varied with at least two or three models for every taste. How much are a pair of demi-chasse these days?
You are right, the staff was super frindly, engaged and happy to talk about the models from a shoo lovers standpoint. They where clearly proud of the product.
I could be wrong, but iirc €710.
 

walker

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well, let's switch to where it belongs ..., sirloin sirloin

So always some brogueing only on the boot cap? Or on the sides and back too?
I guess defacto is no brogueing, but I can see how it would ad something visually.
I love the clean lines of a plain boot, so why interupt it with a toe cap, I don't get it, seriously.

My other love goes to the full brogue derby boot on a viennese almond shaped last. here is a link to the the "ultimate" classic from materna.
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/02/materna-boots-built-to-last.html

btw, Thruth Thruth approves of these, yes, he does ...

... and then there is this. the legacy of my long gone shoemaker. you're not an austrian by any means, if you don't have this. all boxes are ticked ...

thunderstruck.jpg
 

Rambo

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well, let's switch to where it belongs ..., sirloin sirloin



I love the clean lines of a plain boot, so why interupt it with a toe cap, I don't get it, seriously.

My other love goes to the full brogue derby boot on a viennese almond shaped last. here is a link to the the "ultimate" classic from materna.
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/02/materna-boots-built-to-last.html

btw, Thruth Thruth approves of these, yes, he does ...

... and then there is this. the legacy of my long gone shoemaker. you're not an austrian by any means, if you don't have this. all boxes are ticked ...

View attachment 31061
this picture seems so sad.
 

sirloin

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love the clean lines of a plain boot, so why interupt it with a toe cap, I don't get it, seriously.

My other love goes to the full brogue derby boot on a viennese almond shaped last. here is a link to the the "ultimate" classic from materna.
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/02/materna-boots-built-to-last.html

btw, Thruth Thruth approves of these, yes, he does ...

... and then there is this. the legacy of my long gone shoemaker. you're not an austrian by any means, if you don't have this. all boxes are ticked ...

View attachment 31061
I get that on both the full brogue derby and the pictured (split toe boot?). Both are very nice, thank you.
I am partial to a half brogue derby myself.
 

walker

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I get that on both the full brogue derby and the pictured (split toe boot?). Both are very nice, thank you.
I am partial to a half brogue derby myself.
ad hoc: actually, style preferences come from different influences.

I'll prepare a better explanation of my point exactly within the next days.
 

Journeyman

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He has been buying all the EG, G&G, Enzo, Crispin etc. for the last.. 4? years. A SF legend.
I think that some people would be better off - both financially and mentally - if they removed themselves from social media, including discussion fora, Instagram, Tumblr and so on.

I think that posting in such places can, amongst some people, create a cycle - post shoes, get likes, feel great, need to buy something more to generate more likes, get shoes, post shoes, get likes...

Of course, maybe that's not this guy and perhaps he really genuinely loves shoes and wears all of his shoes in those different make-ups.
 

The Shooman

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agreed, he is pretty much clueless about what he does. a true sf legend ...

Yes, his style overall seems really lacking. Doesn't seem like he has really developed a sense of style yet. Money can't buy style.


I think that some people would be better off - both financially and mentally - if they removed themselves from social media, including discussion fora, Instagram, Tumblr and so on.

I think that posting in such places can, amongst some people, create a cycle - post shoes, get likes, feel great, need to buy something more to generate more likes, get shoes, post shoes, get likes...
That would make me sad if that was the case, but l do think many new guys get caught up in it all and buy buy buy without really thinking about what they love and how things are going to work in their wardrobe.
 
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sirloin

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Sure they do. We all buy thing we regret (I do!). The sad thing is when guys continue down that path. Restraint and thinking about getting fewer but good things, is healthy in that regard.
I guess he has fun doing it, and it´s his own damn business. But to me, it´s kinda sad, spending all those good dollars on stuff that have little coherence and direction. A waste of good leather and craftmens time. Always chasing the next great makeup. How does it fit into a wardrope, that is what´s on my mind.
 

walker

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Sure they do. We all buy thing we regret (I do!). The sad thing is when guys continue down that path. Restraint and thinking about getting fewer but good things, is healthy in that regard.
I guess he has fun doing it, and it´s his own damn business. But to me, it´s kinda sad, spending all those good dollars on stuff that have little coherence and direction. A waste of good leather and craftmens time. Always chasing the next great makeup. How does it fit into a wardrope, that is what´s on my mind.
I assume it is much simpler. dude is sort of an chief-enabler. he is omnipresent and he avoids discussions.

there is a red trace with him and the forum affiliates and he is not hiding his track records.

consider, he drove winston liang aka thundermarch of seamlessbespoke away from sf. from this day on, e.g. almost all meccariello orders for new interested parties were processed by sf-affiliates, go figure.

his pants/trousers come from nomanwalksalone, I can't remember a picture of him not showing only pants and shoes/boots.

when he started on sf a few years ago, he ordered shoes by the dozen not knowing his correct size. while others were sitting on the wrong sizes, he just returned the orders, even MTO and received the correct size in a heartbeat. coincidence, I dunno ...

dude is slippery like an eel, not my kind of people.

edit:

Journeyman Journeyman , imo this guy follows a pattern ..., so this remains the question?

Of course, maybe that's not this guy and perhaps he really genuinely loves shoes and wears all of his shoes in those different make-ups.
 
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The Shooman

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Sure they do. We all buy thing we regret (I do!). The sad thing is when guys continue down that path. Restraint and thinking about getting fewer but good things, is healthy in that regard.
I guess he has fun doing it, and it´s his own damn business. But to me, it´s kinda sad, spending all those good dollars on stuff that have little coherence and direction. A waste of good leather and craftmens time. Always chasing the next great makeup. How does it fit into a wardrope, that is what´s on my mind.

Yeah, better to be in control of spending instead of hopelessly addicted. I wonder what their wives must think. It's easy to think we need more than we do, but when we come to a point where we realise we don't need that much it is refreshing and a release from the shackles.

Do we need a shoe and coat and clothing for every single occasion? Do we need 100 pairs of shoes and 50 coats and 100 shirts? Nahh.

The internet bring out bad behaviour imo. Obsessive behaviour can also influence others. People don't need that type of influence, and families shouldn't have to deal with it either.


Spending money, trying to impress a bunch of random dudes on the internet is sad.
People tell me show off mentality is rife on social media. The internet is a bad influence on people, it can spur people on to spend more money than needed and bring out obsessive behaviour, AND it can bring out showoff behaviour.
 

The Shooman

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I assume it is much simpler. dude is sort of an chief-enabler. he is omnipresent and he avoids discussions.

there is a red trace with him and the forum affiliates and he is not hiding his track records.

consider, he drove winston liang aka thundermarch of seamlessbespoke away from sf. from this day on, e.g. almost all meccariello orders for new interested parties were processed by sf-affiliates, go figure.

his pants/trousers come from nomanwalksalone, I can't remember a picture of him not showing only pants and shoes/boots.

when he started on sf a few years ago, he ordered shoes by the dozen not knowing his correct size. while others were sitting on the wrong sizes, he just returned the orders, even MTO and received the correct size in a heartbeat. coincidence, I dunno ...

dude is slippery like an eel, not my kind of people.
I am always surprised at how cunning people are these days and how vendors wheel and deal with cunning types instead of telling them to jump in the lake. It's not my type of world. I know it's all business and marketing, but to me it is not a respectable way to go about things. I like the old ways of word of mouth and paid advertising and hoping for the best. I would probably even advertise on clothing forums, but I WOULD NOT FEED THE VULTURES!!!

If there are shills at S.F then l am disappointed. Pity the vendors don't tell them all to jump in the lake. If a vulture said to me:

"hey shooey...give me discounts and free stuff and i'll shill for you"

i'd say:

"go jump in the lake son. I'll get customers the old fashioned way, through word of mouth and advertising. I DON'T FEED VULTURES SON!!!"


Some of these expected shills put vendor products in a poor light too. Ugly shoes and certain bespoke suits that look awful on certain body types. If people are giving shills/vultures stuff, at least choose the right type of vulture who knows how to sell style instead of clueless cases.
 
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sirloin

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I assume it is much simpler. dude is sort of an chief-enabler. he is omnipresent and he avoids discussions.

there is a red trace with him and the forum affiliates and he is not hiding his track records.

consider, he drove winston liang aka thundermarch of seamlessbespoke away from sf. from this day on, e.g. almost all meccariello orders for new interested parties were processed by sf-affiliates, go figure.

his pants/trousers come from nomanwalksalone, I can't remember a picture of him not showing only pants and shoes/boots.

when he started on sf a few years ago, he ordered shoes by the dozen not knowing his correct size. while others were sitting on the wrong sizes, he just returned the orders, even MTO and received the correct size in a heartbeat. coincidence, I dunno ...

dude is slippery like an eel, not my kind of people.
You might be right. I have not followed him closely, but seen him pop up across brands and been taken back by the spending pattern. If you are right, my guess would be, that he started out buying himself. Got caught in the "moar Alden" type shit, started getting offers and got on the take. Just another hype man.
 

fxh

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I dunno much about them but I'm pretty sure that Dr Martens make calf leather boots. All I ever see here are the binder/split leather ones. Anyone got a clue?
 

Dropbear

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I dunno much about them but I'm pretty sure that Dr Martens make calf leather boots. All I ever see here are the binder/split leather ones. Anyone got a clue?
The main company makes crap leather in China, but the two original factories in England (Solvair/Hawkins and Cobbs Lane AirWare ) are still putting out a slightly higher quality boot. Still not that great, imo. And still no half sizes or wide widths. I’ve never seen calf leather.

These are supposed to be the best DMs around now: https://www.solovair-shoes.com/blog/collections/limited-edition/

https://jumpthegun.co.uk/product/hawkins-astronaut/
 
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Thruth

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I dunno much about them but I'm pretty sure that Dr Martens make calf leather boots. All I ever see here are the binder/split leather ones. Anyone got a clue?
I've never seen calfskin Docs. There are internet references to it but not directly by Doc Martens. Does not seem to be referenced in their current leathers:

https://www.drmartens.com/ca/leathers
 

fxh

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I have seen them online and in person on someone - but never been clear on how they are obtained.

This probably isn't the best place to ask. I should try some of the English forums:

a few quotes::

All the history and tough-girl durability of the original, iconic 8-eye Boot—offered in a variety of colors. This Pascal was constructed on our iconic Dr. Martens AirWair bouncing sole, that’s oil-and-fat resistant with good abrasion and slip resistance—and has been since 1960. The women’s 8-eye boot is Goodyear welted, meaning the upper and sole are sewn together in our heat-sealed z-welt stitch for enhanced comfort. The Pascal is made with Virginia, a soft, fine grained Nappa leather

DR. MARTENS
'Pascal Virginia' boots
Black leather and calf leather 'Pascal Virginia' boots from Dr. Martens.
Designer Style ID: 13512006
Colour: BLACK
Composition
Outer:calf leather 100%Lining:leather 100%Sole:rubber 100%

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Dr-Doc...s-Boot-Great-Work-Chef-shoe-140-/221418723473
 

fxh

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CARPATHIAN LEATHER
Our premium, full-grain leather with a natural tumbled texture. This high-quality leather comes from full-grain animal hides

CRAZY HORSE LEATHER
Full-grain, heavyweight leather with a worn, distressed appearance. Full-grain leathers offer a natural look and feel.
https://www.drmartens.com/ca/leathers
 
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