The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,002
You get what you pay for.

Gaziano & Girling v's R M Williams chelsea:
Gaziano & Girling chelsea 1.jpg R M Williams chealse boot.jpg

G & G
- high quality leather uppers
- high quality oak bark tanned leather soles by Bakers
- elegant last
- good finishing all over and great attention to fine details
- double brick house build made to hold up well over time

RMW
- average quality leather grainy uppers
- chemical died soles of average leather that wears out quickly
- a typical Bruce Millar designed voluminous last (very aussie in nature) that fits few feet and the uppers look untidy on most feet, yet very comfortable.
- single brick house more prone to losing shape over time.
- average level of finishing with basic attention to details.

The G&G costs almost three time more, but for a long term boot you are getting much more. You are getting a much better looking boot, better leather quality, better workmanship and a much more shapely boot on the foot with better build quality. You get what you pay for.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,587
Sure there are much nicer boots for wear with a fine suit, but there isn’t much competition for an iconic knock-about Chelsea that you can wear with jeans, chinos and casual pants. Everything else is either high-end or a construction site boot.

That said, RMW seem to be determined to price themselves out of their own niche.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,002

notice how rugged those RMW's look, that is very typical of the look...the uppers get all rolled up and sloppy due to excess leather caused by a voluminous last. Not criticising, just saying. I am proud of RMW.

I bet you Boris had a pair of black cheaney captoe oxfords on or something. I wish he'd graduate to John Lobb. I just popped on my John Lobb captoe oxfords for the evening.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,307
My RM Williams fit very nicely. I always need a shoe tree to put them on and take them off though.

Boris is not really a shoes or clothes person.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,002
Kirby drops a bombshell and admits that most of the bespoke stuff he has filmed hasn't fit too well. See 2:30:00 - 2:31:00.

See, the problem is that Kirby is like many customers who don't really know what to expect and ask for. It takes lots of insight and contemplation and observation to learn about one's feet and shoo fit, it's a very difficult thing to learn about, and Kirby made many elementary mistakes that shouldn't have been made had he been observant.

and looking at Dominic Casey's sole stitching (see 2:30:30) and inseaming....it isn't as neat as the Berluti guys and the Japanese and Delos and the top boys.

Live Shoe Shine! TLB Mallorca and more

and yes, l did watch it for 3 hours and polish my shoos while doing it. o_O
 
Last edited:

shookt

Active Member
Messages
39
He's been ordering quite a number of bespoke in the last few years - what are some examples of his mistakes?
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,002
He's been ordering quite a number of bespoke in the last few years - what are some examples of his mistakes?
Obvious mistakes such as the vamp and heel area being too roomy, no excuse to make those mistakes in the fitting. He relies on the maker trying to tell him how they fit instead of him (Kirby) working with the maker and letting them know how he wants the shoes to fit. Kirby should be actively pointing out the areas that need adjusting during the fitting period, but he blew it and failed to rise to the occasions many many times. Fitting day is the big day where you need to be able to perform at your best, because if you perform below par and make mistakes you could be stuck with a shoe that isn't an ideal fit. Kirby has been like a limp carrot, he just sits there and does NOTHING!

When my shoes were made l covered about 20 areas where the fit needed improvement, and the last maker and myself had a great meeting of the minds. I went all over the foot and also wanted it filled in more underneath so there was little gap, but at the same time for the last to be shaped slightly different to allow for my feet to slid down a snug shoe when my food grows longer near the end of the day (so not angling in the last so much on the outside) . It ended up with a really snug fit, and the shoes look two sizes too small, yet they fit very very well and unlike anything else. The uppers have no real wrinkling and creasing on the foot,they look prestine despite decent wear.

Fit is a really subjective thing, but here is a pair with a more roomy fit. See the excess leather and bulging of the leather on the side of the foot and on the vamp area. Even the heel counter area looks roomy.
Cleverley roomy fit.jpg

Here are bespoke Gaziano & Girling bespokes. Excess leather on the vamp and on the sides. None-the-less, there is a trade off needed,the last still needs to take a certain shape and can't look exactly like the foot, however there looks like there could be little nip and tucks here and there to get a more tidy shoe on the foot. The fit looks like it could definitely be improved, and it is up to the client to speak up during the fitting so these little things can be sorted out.

Gaziano-Girling-bespoke-shoe2.png
 
Last edited:

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,587
A friend just bought a nice set of Hunter Wellington boots for the hunting and fishing.

I did a quick search online and it seems no one makes wellies in wide sizes. Unless there is someone out there doing bespoke rubber boots, hahah!
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
19,278
A friend just bought a nice set of Hunter Wellington boots for the hunting and fishing.

I did a quick search online and it seems no one makes wellies in wide sizes. Unless there is someone out there doing bespoke rubber boots, hahah!
Most Hunter boots made offshore now
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,587
Most Hunter boots made offshore now
My only experience with wellies is the paddington bear yellow boots we’d get for a few dollars as kids. I was pretty impressed with the ones I saw yesterday. But I bet your feet sweat like crazy in them if you do any hiking.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
19,278
My only experience with wellies is the paddington bear yellow boots we’d get for a few dollars as kids. I was pretty impressed with the ones I saw yesterday. But I bet your feet sweat like crazy in them if you do any hiking.
Hunters look good and are still decent. They seem to have changed the rubber formulation of some if not all and the are more prone to cracks and splitting in our cold.

No matter what they will be sweaty if you are wearing them for any length of time like any rubber wellie.

Mrs. Thruth wears them but I’d look at Aigle and Le Chameau as alternatives if I was buying a pair for myself.

Hoggs of Fife, Muck Boots and Bogs make decent ones too at a less premium price.

My go to Wellington/rubber boot is Baffin Technologies with and without liners. But they have been bought by Canada Goose and I dislike CG with a passion. They are less country gentleman looking but are bulletproof in construction and longevity.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
2,587
Tbh, I don’t think I need wellies. Most of my hunting and hiking is on dry land or the odd puddle. Also probably not an option since the only ‘wide’ options seem to be wide calfs, not feet.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
Moderator
Supporter
Messages
19,278
Tbh, I don’t think I need wellies. Most of my hunting and hiking is on dry land or the odd puddle. Also probably not an option since the only ‘wide’ options seem to be wide calfs, not feet.
Better to get a waterproof-breathable purpose built hiking/hunting boot versus wearing wellies.
 
Top Bottom