The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,123
I see, so the uppers and maybe the insole is not as good leather as it should be? I'm discounting the finishing etc. since they don't really add to construction although they do, admittedly, add to the wearing experience. Which types of handwork were you referring to? Closing and potentially lasting?
handwork = cutting the extra leather and using it to build the shoe stronger inside the shoe to give it more structure so it holds up better/keeps it's shape over a long period of time. Carmina lacks it. Many typical midends like C&J benchgrade also lack it.

I call it the double brick house v's a single brick house. Shoes need to be built for the long hall.

Less materials and workmanship in Carmina to provide good structure. It just does the basics of goodyear welted. At least the sole leather is good, and the heels and insole too seem good too, but thin uppers. See...it gets various things right but lacks in other areas that clearly distinguishes it from the big boy shoes. I am not even going to bring up the goodyear welting, l am talking about all the other things.
 

shookt

Well-Known Member
Messages
74
Ah you mean synthetic stiffeners in the heel and toe etc etc? Trenton and Heath should have fully taken that apart including the uppers!
 

walker

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,473
Imo, their videos are a pleasant step above the BS kirby and his new servant/sycophant preston a. soto(the elegant oxford) produce on a regularly basis.

at the end of the day, they only cater to the their uninformed brownnosing audience, go figure.

Ah you mean synthetic stiffeners in the heel and toe etc etc? Trenton and Heath should have fully taken that apart including the uppers!
 

shookt

Well-Known Member
Messages
74
Imo, their videos are a pleasant step above the BS kirby and his new servant/sycophant preston a. soto(the elegant oxford) produce on a regularly basis.

at the end of the day, they only cater to the their uninformed brownnosing audience, go figure.
Agreed, these guys are actual practitioners.
 

shookt

Well-Known Member
Messages
74
Here's a somewhat funny comparison by Archibald London advertising their cost-transparency (scroll to bottom of page): https://www.archibaldlondon.com/collection/product/mens-captoe-oxford-shoes?color=black

The markup is probably somewhat exaggerated for Santoni and Lobb. A lot depends on how much craftsmanship costs. But try-harding aside, that seems to be an impressive price for hand welted shoes. A friend of mine is looking to pick one up as his first pair of hand welted shoes. I tried to persuade him to go AH but apparently I'm not persuasive at all.

Anyone know anything about this brand?
 
Last edited:

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,123
Here's a somewhat funny comparison by Archibald London advertising their cost-transparency (scroll to bottom of page): https://www.archibaldlondon.com/collection/product/mens-captoe-oxford-shoes?color=black

The markup is probably somewhat exaggerated for Santoni and Lobb. A lot depends on how much craftsmanship costs. But try-harding aside, that seems to be an impressive price for hand welted shoes. A friend of mine is looking to pick one up as his first pair of hand welted shoes. I tried to persuade him to go AH but apparently I'm not persuasive at all.

Anyone know anything about this brand?

AH styling is something many westerners don't seem to appreciate. It is sad because the styling is a no nonsense manly styling that fills a gap in the shoe world. Nothing can touch those AH classic double brogues and alt wiens, they are so authentic and ooze a character that no factory pair could ever touch.

The markup IS exaggerated for those higher end goodyear shoes. Why? Recently Edward Green wanted to charge me $5,200 for a goodyear welted pair with a gemmed waist and hand sewn waist on the outside (top draw), and still one of the heads of the company wrongly promoted the shoe as hand welted when it was not. So marking the shoe up $3,200 for a bit of hand stitching on the waist and a few extra cosmetic features??? The Italians give much more bang for the buck, and even add hand welting in for an extra $300 at Stefano Bemer, yet Edward Green can't even do handwelted for $5,200. Top English shoes are beautiful factory shoes with perfect lasts and perfect patterns and great styling, and that makes them worth the price, BUT they don't compare to the real McCoy....they have the cold clinical factory look and lack the authentic craftsmanship look.

The real Santoni are priced near $4,000 now for Bentivegna construction. Are they worth it? You bet they are. Built like tanks with top notch bespoke quality leathers. If you get the right type of classic design you'll be getting some of the best shoes ever. They are priced up near Lattanzi. They are better than Vass. I have a Vass wholecut that has better leather than my Materna bespoke alt wien, but my Santoni bentivegna construction split toe that uses multiple cuts still has better leather than anything. It is that good!!! Even my Vass brogues etc that uses multiple cuts is way down the list in quality. Usually in rtw, a wholecut will have better leather than a shoe that uses multiple cuts, but with my top end Santoni that is not the case despite using multiple cuts, so it tells me that no compromises are made with that shoe. That is not the case with the top english goodyear shoes...some cuts are good and some cuts not so good.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,123
I have Trickers, Vass, Lobb ,KISS and Edward Green etc because l like variety for different reasons. They all have their place to create different looks and fill a certain mood. When l want the ultimate ride l go Vass all the way, but when l want an English look l go Church's or Trickers or Edward Green, and when l want the fancy pants eye popping look l go Lobb, or if l want to be a King in disguise l go for Santoni bentivegna.

I do lots of english shoes in the warmer weather and lots of Vass in the cooler days with heavier fabrics. It's all good fun.
 
Top Bottom