The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

robertito

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879
I mean the grain was not obtained by engraving it. The grain was obtained by twisting and hitting the leather on the side of the meat. It is very laborious because it must be done slowly and on different days and with humidity
Well the grain was there, you just exposed it. Was it vacuum dried as well?
One of the biggest misconceptions is the grain issue with the leather you can perfectly have a natural grain on a pigmented leather and viceversa. The embossing (the italians call it 'print' can before of after tanning and changes a lot the look of the leather .
 

robertito

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879
Interesting, pure vegetable tanning, do they do chrome tanning as well.

The air dry the hides and spray a PU finish at the end for resistance?? Also they select the quality after the first tanning in the pit and before the de- hairing. From where do they get the hides?
Hardly any calf in the video!
 

Enrile

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77
It is difficult to explain with the Google translator. the video is just an example, there are many vegetable tanneries (for example in Tuscany Italy or Igualada Spain) ... There are hundreds of chrome tanneries in the world. The calves and cows come from all over Europe and naturally from America and South America. They are normally separated into first, second and even third grades. I am not a tanner, I just like knowledge and experience
 

shookt

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Messages
122
I mean the grain was not obtained by engraving it. The grain was obtained by twisting and hitting the leather on the side of the meat. It is very laborious because it must be done slowly and on different days and with humidity
That sounds way better than embossing/engraving. Beautiful black grain leather!
 

robertito

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879
I am not a tanner but I have been in quite a few tanneries before. The video you posted show a clear example of a tannery tanning purely vegetable leathers. (Unless they have different equipment not shown in the video. It is true that not many tanneries do that.

I have worked with big tanneries that handle up to 10,000 hides a day and in my experience there is a big difference in quality depending the origin of the hides. i.e. South American cows are always very large but there is large percentage of humps + fire brands that reduces the usable area and the leather is quite elastic. I dont think is best to work with shoes!
As for the grades, first time I read that was on a forum. We don't grade the leather in this way. Leather is pre-selected according to the quality and tan accordingly.= best and cleaner hides are always aniline and the lower qualities pigmented.

I can understand that a wholesaler can grade the leather if he sells one, two or three hides but this is not possible if if you sell a full drum of aniline hides (50 or 60 hides)
 

Enrile

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77
There are also really beautiful engraved beads, with a very nice effect when it almost disappears at the top

 

shookt

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122
Kirby talks about welting. That Bemer shoe looking pretty good. Once again, he barely talked about handwelting vs goodyear welting even though its the title of the video. I find it crazy that he describes the difference as hitting the point of diminishing marginal returns, especially given the typical difference in thickness of the insole and the examples of gemming failure. Plus he exaggerates the price difference - there are many handwelted shoes available under 1k in Europe, and even bespoke options if you go to China or South East Asia.

 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,310
Kirby talks about welting. That Bemer shoe looking pretty good. Once again, he barely talked about handwelting vs goodyear welting even though its the title of the video. I find it crazy that he describes the difference as hitting the point of diminishing marginal returns, especially given the typical difference in thickness of the insole and the examples of gemming failure. Plus he exaggerates the price difference - there are many handwelted shoes available under 1k in Europe, and even bespoke options if you go to China or South East Asia.

Kirby has spoken to so many shoe experts, but he is not strong in the area of shoe knowledge, it doesn't come naturally to him. For eg, he asked Philippe Atienza about what a reverse welted shoe was and wanted to see the inseaming. It's little things like that, it shows he really doesn't get it. If he used his common sense he'd be able to work it out, it is like a jigsaw puzzle.

See, the problem is that Kirby has tried to do it the wrong way around , and most on the forums are like that too. They rely on professionals teaching them all the ins and outs of shoe theory, but if your thinking and common sense is lacking in that area you will still be clueless. The key is to not rely on others to tell you things, you have got to be able to use your common sense and think it all through yourself, and occasionally you'll ask a shoemaker to fill a few gaps in your knowledge and clarify a few things. The way most people do it online is they want the shoemaker to tell them everything, but if you haven't got the thinking right in the first place you'll never really understand. Kirby just doesn't understand, it's not his area.

Kirby needs to drive his car late at night and think these things through. I made many big breakthroughs understanding the mysteries of footwear that way.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
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Kirby needs to drive his car late at night and think these things through. I made many big breakthroughs understanding the mysteries of footwear that way.
What music you have pumping through the speakers?
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
2,310
What music you have pumping through the speakers?
In the old days l had much great music go through my speakers. In the last 10 years l haven't listened to the radio or played music even once in the car. I have a strict no music in car policy. Why? Because if l am going to be a Buddha l have to have a peaceful mind. I am unable to meditate properly if l have tunes going through my head, so l gave it all away years ago. Music was the most difficult thing l ever gave up, but it was worth it.

At home l may play something for about 2 minutes a day and that's it.
 
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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,310
This video is shaping to be a another Dominic Casey classic! The section on handmade riding boots is as good as it gets. See 13 minutes onwards.

 

sirloin

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Messages
670
Have a new pair of Vass coming in. Trying the 3636 last this time. Hoping it fit as well as I remember from trying it on in the store, a few summers ago.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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2,310

He knows the lining fetishists: the Japanese clients who want a little flash when they de-shoe at a restaurant in Ginza, the Arabs who need their wingtips to stand out from the pile at the mosque.


Have a new pair of Vass coming in. Trying the 3636 last this time. Hoping it fit as well as I remember from trying it on in the store, a few summers ago.
don't forget to post them when you get them. I have a beautiful pair of alt wiens in tan that have a beautiful patina. Comfy too. Some of my shoes have been taking on wonderful patinas lately, l have a pair of tan Edward Green that l couldn't take my eyes off the other night, the patina was stunning!
 

Kingstonian

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1,552
Cheaney offering something called ‘coaching calf leather’. Apparently it is a coated leather.

Anybody know anymore about this ? Is it another euphemism like polished binder, cavalry calf etc. ?
 

Journeyman

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Is it another euphemism like polished binder, cavalry calf etc. ?
Most likely corrected-grain leather with a plastic-like coating.

According to this post on SF, the leather has a coating applied to it:


He wrote:
I handled some in the Jermyn St store and you can see the layer of shiny film applied on top of the leather.
 

Enrile

Well-Known Member
Messages
77
thanks, that was not the inspiration. I really designed this shoe to wear with half chaps for riding, in an oiled leather. The result was so interesting that I did it in countless more formal leather.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
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3,023
Thruth so you know anything about Western boots?

Living in a city full of urban cowboys I’ve always gone with Chelseas to to a little different and true to my roots. But I was poking around on the Wesco site and hit upon some very plain black western boots and now I’m thinking maybe it’s a when in Rome thing.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Thruth so you know anything about Western boots?

Living in a city full of urban cowboys I’ve always gone with Chelseas to to a little different and true to my roots. But I was poking around on the Wesco site and hit upon some very plain black western boots and now I’m thinking maybe it’s a when in Rome thing.
The Wesco Morrison's are a nice western style boot. A lot like the Dayton Black/Brown Beauties. It's not a stock boot so you have to go custom unless they have your size in the outlet. You are going to pay $500 minimum for them.

But you live in the state with the most custom cowboy boot makers in the US that you would be silly not to get a custom pair of real cowboy boots. Throw in a couple of hundred more and you can get a custom pair. But you'll have to travel. Dave Wheeler retired and Rocky Carroll (RJ's Boots) died and they were the two best boot makers in Houston. Maida's is still around but I've lost track of what boots start at with them.

But there are so many good boot makers still out there in the state.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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where do you recommend him to start his search?
By telling us what his budget is. If he wants custom or RTW (there are some boot makers like Leddy Boots that have RTW at their shop) and if he wants to travel.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
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3,023
By telling us what his budget is. If he wants custom or RTW (there are some boot makers like Leddy Boots that have RTW at their shop) and if he wants to travel.
Travel to DFW, Austin, San Antone is no issue. Not going to Laredo, Brownsville, El Paso or Lubbock of I can help it.

Im really just kickin the shit right now, out of curiosity. But if I ever got serious, my budget would be under a thousand. Probably half that.

Is a hybrid engineer and western boot a bad idea better aborted?
 
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Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Travel to DFW, Austin, San Antone is no issue. Not going to Laredo, Brownsville, El Paso or Lubbock of I can help it.

Im really just kickin the shit right now, out of curiosity. But if I ever got serious, my budget would be under a thousand. Probably half that.
You can get ML Leddy RTW boots for $500 (DFW or San Angelo). Ponder boots (DFW) about $700 for custom. Same for Becks in Amarillo.
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
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3,023
Thanks. Will check out Ponder if I’m ever able to travel up there again.

I’ve also been playing around and looking with some of the more refined engineer boot designs - that look less like motorcycle cosplay. These look nice, though I really don’t need them. Not that the western boot everyone wears here are any more practical.

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