The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

sirloin

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Just saw the show. In places he did (to me..) give of an Aussie accent.
 
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Journeyman

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Isn’t Gazman from Sydney?
I'm pretty sure that he's spent time in Sydney, as well as overseas. I think that he was one of the members of the "Sydney Tarts" group that met up for lemon curd tarts and watch discussions, as he contributed to some of their blog posts.

I could be confusing him with someone else, though.
 

Enrile

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Which of the leathers that you mentioned earlier is it, the one from J&F Baker, or the "100% Spanish vegetable" that you preprared yourself? Or something else entirely? I like it a lot.
this keather is an engraving, its appearance is really interesting, if you don't look closely you won't see the micrograin. On the toe and heel it almost disappears
144.jpg
 

The Shooman

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Gazman and some of the Hong Kong group (Lukcha) have been to Australia. Both have visited Double Monk in Melbourne.
One thing l have noticed is that you do a lot of hand stitched aprons and split toes, an unusually high number. I wonder why so many of your customers are wanting those types of shoes, is it a geographic thing?
 

Enrile

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I think that an apron well sewn by hand, gives the shoe a very handcrafted look. I think this is what causes it to be done more times, not just where I live, remember many of my shoes go to, USA, France, Germany, Sweden ...
 

shookt

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I am actually polishing multiple pairs of shoes and watching this video as we speak. It's good too. Gazman from S.F is on. He is a real BIG daddy shoomen, one of the best.
This is a nice video, informative!
 

Dropbear

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Cambrelle boot lining: yeh or nah?

Celastic toe or natural on an engineer boot?
 
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güero

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Haven't read every thing in detail, but I don't think saddle soap is generally recommended to clean shoes. It's most likely even bad for the leather, saddles and shoes are different leathers for different uses.

Probably better to use a mild leather shampoo if the shoe is really dirty and the leather needs to be thoroughly cleaned (so very, very rarely, many shoes never need to be cleaned like this) and to use one of the Boot Black lotions once in while if there are stains after brushing the shoes.

Personally I think >90% of the people could live with only using the Two Face Plus lotion and replace all their cleaners and moisturizers with that. You can also just get a full set of all the Boot Black products you need for basic maintenance for (far) below 100$, so I'm not sure this article is worth reading.
 

Rambo

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Haven't read every thing in detail, but I don't think saddle soap is generally recommended to clean shoes. It's most likely even bad for the leather, saddles and shoes are different leathers for different uses.

Probably better to use a mild leather shampoo if the shoe is really dirty and the leather needs to be thoroughly cleaned (so very, very rarely, many shoes never need to be cleaned like this) and to use one of the Boot Black lotions once in while if there are stains after brushing the shoes.

Personally I think >90% of the people could live with only using the Two Face Plus lotion and replace all their cleaners and moisturizers with that. You can also just get a full set of all the Boot Black products you need for basic maintenance for (far) below 100$, so I'm not sure this article is worth reading.
it was just an interesting article. im not putting it forth as a piece of gospel.
 

The Shooman

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Young Nick Horween now a leather expert eh? I remember not so many years ago he didn't even know that some shell cordovan shoes gets water welts when it rains. I hope he has learned more since then.

A proper shoe care set up would require:
- a leather cleaner for the occasion when wax build ups start to get rough and flakey and need to be striped off.
- a moisturiser
- paste
- a wax

The Boot Black `rich moisture', `two face plus lotion' and `artists palette' are the best shoe care polish products on the market by far. It brings shoe polishing to the next level. There is no going back after using those, it makes shoe shines a pleasure to do and gets results not possible with other polishes. The Boot Black paste and wax is similar to Saphir. I don't use Saphir renovateur anymore, it is far inferior to the `rich moisture'.

Boot Black `Artists Palette' - a funny ole shoo polish
Despite say that, the `artists palette' is a funny one. It applies like a paste, but it has a similar effect like wax in that it builds up in the creases of the shoes and forms a film when the shoes are worn/flexed. It can become unsightly in those areas and the film needs to be removed gently with the `two face plus lotion' followed by a moisturize on the vamp. I think they need to improve the A.P, but besides from that it is really good stuff. I think l might write to them.
 

fxh

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Saddle Soap is meant for --- wait for it - wait -- saddles and horse leather. Too harsh for shoes.
 

Dropbear

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I got a call from Baker’s last night. I’d ordered Wesco boots in a brown domain leather because I want something that will take a shine - a drier, waxy leather and not a dull, surface dyed, oily style leather. Turns out, they no longer do the chestnut brown domain (only Brit tan and burgundy). I suspect it might be reserved for second party retail orders, like the horse hide.

While they have a million different options for black, my choices in mid to dark brown are down to a ‘smooth brown’ and a CXL brown. From what I’ve read, the former is still oil soaked, but dyed in a way that you get less ‘pull-up’ color variation when it is stretched.
 

The Shooman

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A true shoo addict. A must see video. 134 pairs for display. He says "it is madness, but it is what it is". A very unique character, but seems like a nice man.

His videos are eye openers, especially those where he irons his shoes.

He spends countless hours restoring old shoe that look incredible when finished. He even spends 12 hours stripping off old polish.
 
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Kingstonian

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A true shoo addict. A must see video. 134 pairs for display. He says "it is madness, but it is what it is". A very unique character, but seems like a nice man.

His videos are eye openers, especially those where he irons his shoes.

He spends countless hours restoring old shoe that look incredible when finished. He even spends 12 hours stripping off old polish.
A few points :

His house is not where his family live and he seems to only use one room occasionally. He would be better getting a storage locker and leaving the shoe collection there, on racks. That way he could do up the house and make better use of it.

It is an honest, warts and all, film of what the shoes actually look like. No lavish photography, special lighting or tasteful background. You can see that shoes deteriorate over time. They don’t remain perfect. The stitching goes, creases develop, over polishing can cause issues.

Alligator, crocodile leather etc never appealed to me. It looks better on the animal - though it may be used as an extravagant display of wealth.

There are various styles he owns. Some appeal, some don’t. He knows that too - as indicated by some of his comments.
 

Journeyman

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He would be better getting a storage locker and leaving the shoe collection there, on racks. That way he could do up the house and make better use of it.

It is an honest, warts and all, film of what the shoes actually look like. No lavish photography, special lighting or tasteful background. You can see that shoes deteriorate over time. They don’t remain perfect.
I only watched the first couple of minutes. One of the early pairs, right at the end of the first row, looks like a dog had been chewing on it!

It does amaze me to see the houses that some of these people live in. It's the same on SF when people post "What are you wearing right now" pics, or show pictures of their watches on their wrists. Certainly, some people live in lovely houses or apartments that are in very good condition, but there's a surprising number that live in very ordinary places, in very ordinary locations, that could clearly do with some renovation, landscaping, or at least a good coat of paint.

I can't help but think that rather than spending many thousands of dollars on shoes, clothes or watches, they'd benefit more (particularly in the long run) if they put that money towards their house or apartment...
 

The Shooman

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Journeyman said:
It does amaze me to see the houses that some of these people live in. It's the same on SF when people post "What are you wearing right now" pics, or show pictures of their watches on their wrists. Certainly, some people live in lovely houses or apartments that are in very good condition, but there's a surprising number that live in very ordinary places, in very ordinary locations, that could clearly do with some renovation, landscaping, or at least a good coat of paint.

I can't help but think that rather than spending many thousands of dollars on shoes, clothes or watches, they'd benefit more (particularly in the long run) if they put that money towards their house or apartment...
I am not surprised, people have different priorities. For some a nice house and car are important, but for others eating out at nice restaurants is more important, while for others nice clothes are most important. Some people are out and about all the time and see a house as something to sleep in.

None-the-less l do admit to being surprised when l see men in Edward Green and a great suit while taking a photo in their bedroom with a mattress on the floor. Then again, maybe their priorities are different to yours. As long as they are spending less than they earn, what does it matter how they live. Some people don't need nice things, but maybe they need a nice watch and suit, so be it.
 

The Shooman

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A few points :

His house is not where his family live and he seems to only use one room occasionally. He would be better getting a storage locker and leaving the shoe collection there, on racks. That way he could do up the house and make better use of it.

It is an honest, warts and all, film of what the shoes actually look like. No lavish photography, special lighting or tasteful background. You can see that shoes deteriorate over time. They don’t remain perfect. The stitching goes, creases develop, over polishing can cause issues.

Alligator, crocodile leather etc never appealed to me. It looks better on the animal - though it may be used as an extravagant display of wealth.

There are various styles he owns. Some appeal, some don’t. He knows that too - as indicated by some of his comments.

He has many stunning shoes in his collection. The Fosters bespoke are the best of them all - especially those black Fosters with the faded toes, but the Maxwell bespokes are also show stoppers. The J&M alligators and lizard are also fantastic. Too many beautiful styles to count, I especially love the lazymans.
 

shookt

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140
Wow I'm impressed by the condition of some of the vintage/antique pairs, especially the button boots and spectators.

What an effort in restoration among the pairs.

I think I'm going to avoid using wax polish after seeing this video!
 

The Shooman

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I really like this Henry Maxwell leprechaun shoe. While this one is too feminine looking for me, l do love the big buckle combined with the longwing as a loafer. I've wanted a leprechaun shoe all my life...it is a very manly shoe if done right. I think my uncle had one years ago. I am definitely going to order a slipon with a big buckle on the vamp one day.
Henry Maxwell bespoke BIG buckle..jpg


I am going to order this one too. Designed by my old shoemaker. Love this design, but hated it as a kid. It was an iconic Melbourne shoe in the 70's, 80'sand early 90's.
John Shoo 14.jpg
 

The Shooman

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I only watched the first couple of minutes. One of the early pairs, right at the end of the first row, looks like a dog had been chewing on it!

It does amaze me to see the houses that some of these people live in. It's the same on SF when people post "What are you wearing right now" pics, or show pictures of their watches on their wrists. Certainly, some people live in lovely houses or apartments that are in very good condition, but there's a surprising number that live in very ordinary places, in very ordinary locations, that could clearly do with some renovation, landscaping, or at least a good coat of paint.

I can't help but think that rather than spending many thousands of dollars on shoes, clothes or watches, they'd benefit more (particularly in the long run) if they put that money towards their house or apartment...
here we are Journeyman Journeyman , this is for you. A bloke interviewing in the back of his shed or trailor sitting in leather chesterfield chairs sucking on a cigar while talking about lifestyles. Gotta love the characters man. 🃏
 

Journeyman

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check out Bogeys shoes
Looks like a loafer with a strap and buckle detail across the vamp. I think that I've seen a similar pair by one of the English makers (either C&J or Alfred Sargent) for either Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers some years back.
 

Enrile

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102
the brand that always made that lazy man in Argentina is Guido's. In Spain it is used by people who have a relationship with this country
 

The Shooman

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the brand that always made that lazy man in Argentina is Guido's. In Spain it is used by people who have a relationship with this country
Do you use exotics?

What are your thoughts on using stingray leather for shoes, how does it crease and feel? Someone warned me against it.
 

Thruth

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The Shooman The Shooman , have you looked at Reszo Kuti & Gabor Halmos' new hand welted & pegged in Transylvania shoos? 700 euros to start although they initially had pegged retail at 890 euros.

They will also do MTO



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Bloo whole cut shoos
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Rambo

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The Shooman The Shooman , have you looked at Reszo Kuti & Gabor Halmos' new hand welted & pegged in Transylvania shoos? 700 euros to start although they initially had pegged retail at 890 euros.

They will also do MTO



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Bloo whole cut shoos
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some handsome looking pics.
 

Lobbster

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172
Will be interesting to see how they develop both concerning future models and their distribution. There isn't exactly a shortage of 1k€ shoes and who knows what happens in the current climate. Judgingfrom the pictures alone they're already well ahead of Vass and Dinkelacker, seems like Saint Crispin's with more traditional lasts. Looking a the history of one of the founders it would be interesting learn about the politics behind this one, also with regard to the Chinese fellow who is in bed with Vass and Dinkelackers problems with quality control.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Will be interesting to see how they develop both concerning future models and their distribution. There isn't exactly a shortage of 1k€ shoes and who knows what happens in the current climate. Judgingfrom the pictures alone they're already well ahead of Vass and Dinkelacker, seems like Saint Crispin's with more traditional lasts. Looking a the history of one of the founders it would be interesting learn about the politics behind this one, also with regard to the Chinese fellow who is in bed with Vass and Dinkelackers problems with quality control.
Well their current price point is 700 euros on their site and 750 USD on Sartoriale (Halmos owns it) which for what one gets puts them in a good spot with Vass and other hand-welted makers. Reszo was at Dinkelacker after he was punted from Vass so it may not be too surprising that pegged construction factors in to these shoes, especially given the economies of scale in making shoes in Romania. Halmos goes back a long way in trying to bring Vass to the US market. They also know marketing and getting shoes to those who want it. Halmos brings the US market. So if they can make distance-ordering easier they may find a purchase.
 

Lobbster

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172
That's excluding VAT, starting at 890€ for anyone in the EU. I have zero doubts about their ability to move the product, I simply think that the market for those shoes currently on offer is generally limited and that going against Vass at a higher price point is tricky, even when the shoes might be better. Dinkelacker learned this the hard way, though there were other issues aswell. It's a well known secret that some factories have struggeled to recruit new workers and that a lot of training is involed to bring people up to par or train new ones, that is basically the reason why Balint's son was forced to close down their shop. Regardind production hand welting takes more time and the raw materials will be the same price. I just wonder if they used their knowledge of Vass and Dinkelacker to poach a few workers. Still, the Maftei family and Saint Crispin's seem have to have managed rather well.

I'm absolutely in favour of all the things happening in the shoe world currently, no matter if in Europe or Asia. The Brits can definitely use a kick up their spoiled asses. It just makes me wonder if the market is big enough to support all these new brands.
 

Thruth

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That's excluding VAT, starting at 890€ for anyone in the EU. I have zero doubts about their ability to move the product, I simply think that the market for those shoes currently on offer is generally limited and that going against Vass at a higher price point is tricky, even when the shoes might be better. Dinkelacker learned this the hard way, though there were other issues aswell. It's a well known secret that some factories have struggeled to recruit new workers and that a lot of training is involed to bring people up to par or train new ones, that is basically the reason why Balint's son was forced to close down their shop. Regardind production hand welting takes more time and the raw materials will be the same price. I just wonder if they used their knowledge of Vass and Dinkelacker to poach a few workers. Still, the Maftei family and Saint Crispin's seem have to have managed rather well.

I'm absolutely in favour of all the things happening in the shoe world currently, no matter if in Europe or Asia. The Brits can definitely use a kick up their spoiled asses. It just makes me wonder if the market is big enough to support all these new brands.
Balint closing was a shame for sure.

Found this on the website:

Shipments originating from within the European Union (EU), are noted in the product description, to addresses located within the EU are subject to VAT, which is included in the price.
 
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