The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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I’ve noticed a lot of new Indonesian stitch-down boot makers popping up. Nice pics, but it seems like a huge gamble. Of course, I still remember trips to Bali in the 1980s, buying ratshit quality knock-off clothes and watches.

access to quality leather is the problem with these boots.
 

sirloin

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Imo the styling is not that great either. But that only takes a good designer, to lift a notch or two.
 

The Shooman

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I’ve noticed a lot of new Indonesian stitch-down boot makers popping up. Nice pics, but it seems like a huge gamble. Of course, I still remember trips to Bali in the 1980s, buying ratshit quality knock-off clothes and watches.

Those are not a stitchdown construction.
Why do you say they are stitchdown?
Best to avoid stitchdown, it is a dubious and cheap construction.
 

Thruth

thicker but more pliant than horsehide
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Polished & greased my work boots today. No Saphir, Boot Black or champagne. All a number of year’s old, worn hard and beaten up regularly.

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Comparison of the oiled rough out before and after greasing.

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Thruth

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What sort of job requires boots like that?
The chores and work I do out here at Flat Broke Acres. Horse fucking and cattle rustling. There is a horse fucker thread around here somewhere. I only wear Big Johnny Lobbs for my work in the city.
 
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The Shooman

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I had my second fitting for my shoos this arvo by the river and have taken my trial shoos home for a couple of days. The fit is a nice comfortable relaxed fit.

It is interesting how my feet have changed. Once l could have worn a glove like fit, but now I need more of a relaxed fit because the foot changes from sitting to standing are vast. The last maker is doing a good job, and we both understand the fit v's aesthetics compromises that need to be made.

I shall wear them over the weekend and then return them for a few final tweaks of the last and then to go to final making. It's really good working with a with good local last and shoe maker.

He wants to become an expert bespoke shoemaker by age 45. He is already on his way.
 

The Shooman

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Testing the trial shoes - part 1

Went for a 3 km walk in my trial shoes and took detailed notes on my shoe fit. Feet are unusually big today. I shall take detailed notes and measurements every day. It is really good having a local maker and being able to wear a pair for a week to get an idea on improving fit.

There is never a perfect fit. For me it has to fit better earlier in the day and less after 6pm or it has to be loser at the start of day and fit better in the late arvo. Foot shape changes so much, and after 6pm it changes even more quickly, so by 11pm it is a different foot. My foot also changes from sitting to standing quite a lot, but the last maker has done really good things to accommodate that. I have learned a lot by talking to him...so much better than only spending 30 minutes with someone.

Learning a lot about fit v's aesthetics and compromises, and getting an ideal balance of each. It's a very tricky thing to do and think about.
 
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Kingstonian

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Two hundred year old shoe shop in Southampton gets ready to reopen after lockdown.

Looks quite a big place. A bit old fashioned. More of a down to earth place than anything fancy - but a proper shop nonetheless.
 

fxh

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Two hundred year old shoe shop in Southampton gets ready to reopen after lockdown.

Looks quite a big place. A bit old fashioned. More of a down to earth place than anything fancy - but a proper shop nonetheless.
Looks like a proper shoe shop. Not some hyped up igent salon. I’d shop there
 

Kingstonian

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Rambo

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Finance Director of Alden allegedly stole $20 million and gave $15 million of it to an attractive blonde TV presenter.

She is being sued for the money.

Lockdown. Then this.
Holy shit thats a wild story. She must have had some amazing pussy to be able to swing that much cash
 

Thruth

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this guy does some neat stuff

hand-welted Red Wing Beckman copy from scratch


hand-welted resole/recraft

 

Lobbster

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The Shooman The Shooman , have you looked at Reszo Kuti & Gabor Halmos' new hand welted & pegged in Transylvania shoos? 700 euros to start although they initially had pegged retail at 890 euros.

They will also do MTO



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Bloo whole cut shoos
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They've introduced a few more models and lasts:




Good looking shoes but the order process seems risky.
 

Thruth

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These guys are handwelting a pair of AE replacement insoles...I wonder what that gemmed black fabric to replace the canvassing is.
I believe he used the existing canvas. You can see old cork over top the canvas which would not be there if it was replaced.
 

Journeyman

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Has anyone read the kerfuffle in the Vass thread over on SF?

It seems that someone called Bedo on YouTube posted a video of re-soling a pair of Vass (to give them spade soles, for some unknown reason) and discovered that Vass are now using cheaper heel blocks that are partially made of leatherboard and are only attaching the heel blocks with a few nails. DWFII then chimed in about it in the "shoe construction" thread.

It seems that it doesn't change the cost of materials very much, but it's considerably faster to attach the heels with the cheaper heel blocks and so Vass can make more shoes, thus lowering the labour cost per pair of shoes.

Disappointing news, if accurate.

Here's the discussion in the "shoe construction" thread - read from the top post on the page down:


And here's the YouTube clip of the re-soling:

 

Kingstonian

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Has anyone read the kerfuffle in the Vass thread over on SF?

Here's the discussion in the "shoe construction" thread - read from the top post on the page down:


And here's the YouTube clip of the re-soling:

A separate discussion concerns the wastefulness of removing a new sole just to replace it with a spade sole. It is a quality new sole too - oak bark tanned. No matter how much money you have, it just seems wrong.

The cobbler is very good, restrained and non judgemental. He has another video recrafting a Florsheim cordovan longwing. The idiot customer wanted the original nails reused. So the cobbler had to waste time straightening the many nails he removed !
 

Kingstonian

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Vass shoes are now available at 50% on their website.

For those of us with no dog in this fight we can look forward to pages and pages from Vass supporters and ex Vass supporters. Possibly the first time this forum favourite has got serious criticism - apart from poor service online and in their shop (which iGents enjoy anyway).

Weird DFW the Second will now have more topics to talk about than gemming failure.
 

Journeyman

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Vass shoes are now available at 50% on their website.
Could well be one of the reasons they're using cheaper/faster construction techniques - if you're selling shoes at a deep discount from their regular price, you have to find savings somewhere.
 

Lobbster

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One look at their website tells me their shoes are between 200 to 400€ exluding VAT, what do people expect? Saint Crispin's ask 3 or 4 times as much producing in Romania.

Never got the hype around this brand. Every pair I've ever handeled has been of mediocre quality while the upcharges by the sellers are quite healthy. Hand-welting or not, I'd rather have a GYW shoe of reliable quality than taking a gamble. The local shop has dropped them for this very reason as both the customers and him got fed up. I've little doubt that their shoes were of higher quality 20 years back given the raw material also were but producing these shoes in 21 century Europe they will have to cut corners as sf-type customers are usually the first ones to ambandon ship when prices increase or when the flavour of the month hype comes to an end.
 

The Shooman

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I am shocked at seeing that heel. All my pairs have hand stacked heel leather and are of high quality. One of my wholecuts has higher quality leather upper than my Materna bespoke. I am a very big fan of Vass.

I can tell fiber board heels. None of my Vass have that look.

Vass used to be a quiet maker, then came the silly guys (online Vass sellers and internet igents), then came the greed and cost cutting.

I am shocked.

Check this out. Really poorly crafted Vass Crooked welt and crooked channel cut. How embarrassing.
Vass - seconds.jpg
Vass - crooked chanel opening.jpg
 
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