The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Kingstonian

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You've got me all excited @Truth just looked at the Vass website and have been hatching future ideas.

Some possibilities:

Haven't done alligator in a while, so l am probably due for one of these in a colour like this on the F last:

AND about $9,000 less than what that Ascot bloke wanted to sell them for. Now that he's out of the pictures Vass are starting to stock alligator again.
View attachment 36424

Being me, a green wholecut on the F last would be just the ticket:
View attachment 36425

and of course a navy blue and white wingtip spectator shoe on the F last.(Just a pic of a cheap pair, but you get the idea).
View attachment 36427

or

a multi coloured spectator with goiser construction on the P2 or 3636 last. Would probably do different colours to this, but you get the basic idea. Have wanted this type of shoe for many years.
View attachment 36428
You would definitely be a Big Daddy with those alligator shoes.

Probably run the best string of working girls in the city too.
 

The Shooman

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Out of business or out of Vass? :fadancing:
He certainly did nothing good for the brand in the long run.

He is out of Vass, and ebay also has no sign of him anymore so prices are much cheaper for Vass in the market now. It is almost like he doesn't exist anymore. :problemo:

He now does gyw shoes. He made Vass stray far from it's roots and he did appear to have power over Vass so he could corner the market; ie, Vass never responded to my alligator requests, they ignored me completely. It is like that bloke wanted his $10,000 profit on each pair of alligator, so Vass wouldn't tell me their real price at the time. Glad he has gone....no appreciation of tradition and conventions, it is like communism sucked the soul out of him.
 

The Shooman

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3,019
He is out of Vass, and ebay also has no sign of him anymore so prices are much cheaper for Vass in the market now. It is almost like he doesn't exist anymore. :problemo:

He now does gyw shoes. He made Vass stray far from it's roots and he did appear to have power over Vass so he could corner the market; ie, Vass never responded to my alligator requests, they ignored me completely. It is like that bloke wanted his $10,000 profit on each pair of alligator, so Vass wouldn't tell me their real price at the time. Glad he has gone....no appreciation of tradition and conventions, it is like communism sucked the soul out of him.

Now he is selling gyw factory shoes with a cheap close cut waist done by people newer to shoe manufacturing, ie the factory lacks the machinist skills expected of the more experienced workers. Naturally he would be marking up the shoes horrendously and taking advantage of cheap labour, so i'd say he would probably be having them made in countries China or Vietnam (not Spain).

I'll give him a test....I will ask him where his shoos are made and see if he responds back and comes clean.
 

Enrile

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142
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Dropbear

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Someday I will have to return to normal office attire after a year or two of wearing fatigues and boots, which is going to be hard. As far as shoes/boots go, I have a pair of Dayton service boots and a few RMWs. I may treat myself to a pair of White’s Semi-Dress:

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Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
Why are you saying that? Also interested, was thinking to make possibly some purchase. Has anybody some experience with that brand?
I have experience and the fact that they've closed their manufacturing facilities and RTW in a pandemic when the only option is the RTW.
 

The Shooman

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3,019
An interview with Pierre Corthay. Said by one of France's most celebrated cordwainers to be the best maker in France. In it includes a story when he went to the Sultan of Brunei's castle to measure him, and ended up making 140 pairs of bespoke for him.

Haven't heard the video yet, but it should be good.
 
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florisgreen

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Messages
52
An interview with Pierre Corthay. Said by one of France's most celebrated cordwainers to be the best maker in France. In it includes a story when he went to the Sultan of Brunei's castle to measure him, and ended up making 140 pairs of bespoke for him.

Haven't heard the video yet, but it should be good.
Thank you, very nice, informative talk! Even though Corthay is not my favourite shoemaker, I like more conservative styles, nonetheless he has a very impressive and recognizable aesthetics. I really like those Bruno Jacomet's sartorial talks.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
Bought these C&J's from Pelger, yet another historic men's outfitters, struggling in these dark sartorial times:
IMG_2305.jpg

The antique dark brown, reminiscent of your grandfather's old sea chest or desk:
IMG_2310.jpg

Merino socks thrown in for free, makes a refreshing change from cotton Pantherella's
IMG_2311.jpg
 

Journeyman

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Bought these C&J's from Pelger, yet another historic men's outfitters, struggling in these dark sartorial times:

Very nice, and lovely colour. I really like C&J's handgrade line.

What last is that? Looks pointier than the usual 337 handgrade last.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
Very nice, and lovely colour. I really like C&J's handgrade line.

What last is that? Looks pointier than the usual 337 handgrade last.
I think it's the 367 a tad thinner and longer than the 337, with a slightly clipped heel.

The Pitsford is not a model on the website now, it doesn't ring a bell with me either. It might be a quirky European market one that is like my Audleys with the extra shoe eyelets and Dainite sole.

You can't go wrong with C&J's Handgrades, you might not be a Johnny Lobby Paris Big Daddy, but you're still going to be in the top 1% of shoe geezers. And that's big enough for me in this town.
 

florisgreen

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Messages
52
Bought these C&J's from Pelger, yet another historic men's outfitters, struggling in these dark sartorial times:
View attachment 36707
The antique dark brown, reminiscent of your grandfather's old sea chest or desk:
View attachment 36708
Merino socks thrown in for free, makes a refreshing change from cotton Pantherella's
View attachment 36709
Very nice, classic style! You can't go wrong with them. Warm shade of brown with traditional, decent burnishing. I prefer this finishing by far over the numerous patina styles, so in trend nowadays, which to me are too flashy and funky, beyond being not solid and too delicate.
 
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Dropbear

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These are some of the nicest Indo m2m custom boots I’ve seen. So nice I shot them a message to ask about price. With imported Japanese or Italian leather, they are around $500 US. Yikes! Compared to some of the Japanese brands, that is a bargain I guess - but I feel a lot safer sticking with US options at that price!

 

Great White Snark

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656
I’ve had some Frye harness boots for 19 years which have been heavily used on the Harley and are still in great shape. Strongly recommended and a fraction of the price of those^
 

Dropbear

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I’ve had some Frye harness boots for 19 years which have been heavily used on the Harley and are still in great shape. Strongly recommended and a fraction of the price of those^

Hahah, pretty sure your Frye boots aren’t made to order from Shinki horsehide. I’m not really into harness boots, but I do love a nice engineer boot.

I have some Wesco Boss engineers for knocking about, but it’d be nice to get some that are a little more refined/dressy - without paying Clinch or Role Club prices. And in a EEE width.
 
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Rambo

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Hasn't Frye gone way downhill in quality in the past few years?
 

Great White Snark

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Hasn't Frye gone way downhill in quality in the past few years?
Dunno - maybe. I got mine in 2002!! Had one set of heels replaced in that time. They’re more or less bullet proof and surprisingly comfortable to walk in too! Laid the bike down once and ruined a pair of Levi’s but the boots were completely unscathed!
 

Dropbear

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Certainly, there are engineer boots out there that are more ‘work’ than ‘dress’, but there are also a lot that you definitely wouldn’t want to take a spill on your bike with. Some people make a destination between the soft toe 1930s styling which is sleeker than the 50s chunkier styling, but I don’t think it’s really that simple.

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Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
Certainly, there are engineer boots out there that are more ‘work’ than ‘dress’, but there are also a lot that you definitely wouldn’t want to take a spill on your bike with. Some people make a destination between the soft toe 1930s styling which is sleeker than the 50s chunkier styling, but I don’t think it’s really that simple.

View attachment 36729View attachment 36730View attachment 36731View attachment 36732View attachment 36733
View attachment 36734
They look like cowboy boots to me. Engineer/safety boots look more snub-nosed sneakers these days.

I used to wear Jallatte's:
lrg333_2.jpg
 

Dropbear

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James Dean wore Chippewa engineer boots for Rebel Without a Cause, though in some of the promo shots it looks like he also wore some western boots.

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Thruth

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Hasn't Frye gone way downhill in quality in the past few years?
They still have made in the US models like the rest. They are over-priced compared to Red Wing and others. Their selection of boot models has been decreased and there are few nice ones. I have a pair of US made GYW prison boots and they are equal to Red Wing and the usual suspects.
 

chesterfield

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13
Gentlemen, what do you think of these? Do you find them attractive?

Screen Shot 2021-03-31 at 1.39.19 AM.png


I want to hear extensive responses on your impression of them. They are Hiro Yanagimachi bespoke. I love round toe derbies... I'm in pursuit of a perfect pair. I'm not sure the perfect pair is sitting somewhere; I may have to commission them. I'm trying to figure out what to do, if you have recommendations, please let me know. My heels are narrow, and my feet are somewhat narrow; this is not really suited to derby construction. It makes things challenging. I want to try a Vass derby on the P2 last but dont want to make a special order only to find out the last doesn't work... to be continued.
 

Pimpernel Smith

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6,595
Gentlemen, what do you think of these? Do you find them attractive?

View attachment 36758

I want to hear extensive responses on your impression of them. They are Hiro Yanagimachi bespoke. I love round toe derbies... I'm in pursuit of a perfect pair. I'm not sure the perfect pair is sitting somewhere; I may have to commission them. I'm trying to figure out what to do, if you have recommendations, please let me know. My heels are narrow, and my feet are somewhat narrow; this is not really suited to derby construction. It makes things challenging. I want to try a Vass derby on the P2 last but dont want to make a special order only to find out the last doesn't work... to be continued.
If you don't know the last, a very high risk you're taking. You need to know the sizing and style of the last.
 

Enrile

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Messages
142
Gentlemen, what do you think of these? Do you find them attractive?

View attachment 36758

I want to hear extensive responses on your impression of them. They are Hiro Yanagimachi bespoke. I love round toe derbies... I'm in pursuit of a perfect pair. I'm not sure the perfect pair is sitting somewhere; I may have to commission them. I'm trying to figure out what to do, if you have recommendations, please let me know. My heels are narrow, and my feet are somewhat narrow; this is not really suited to derby construction. It makes things challenging. I want to try a Vass derby on the P2 last but dont want to make a special order only to find out the last doesn't work... to be continued.
they are honestly beautiful and well done. I think if you have a conversation with Hiro Y. or his team, the risk will not be great.
 

chesterfield

Member
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13
they are honestly beautiful and well done. I think if you have a conversation with Hiro Y. or his team, the risk will not be great.
I'm glad you like them!
If you don't know the last, a very high risk you're taking. You need to know the sizing and style of the last.
He's a bespoke maker. I don't think one can order these without getting measured, trial shoe, etc. And if you check out his web presence even these seem somewhat different than what he usually makes. I believe he does do MTM but I don't think there's an RTW line. Even if he did I wouldn't consider it at the price it would probably punch... beyond a certain price point I can't stomach it unless its custom. I'm trying to be somewhat responsible with future shoe buying, get things that actually fit, fit perfectly, trying to understand and plan out how it should unfold; I don't know if I would be a good candidate for bespoke footwear, I might be. $$$$ though, but I have made expensive mistakes pretty regularly for about a year now. Another route I was considering taking was going to Budapest and getting measured in the store etc and going from there with different models, and I'd be a Vass guy. Don't have much information on Enzo Bonafe but I believe I could be measured in California and go from there, I need to look into it. I don't think I'm a big daddy; I want to be modest, but believe in what I've got.
I love doublesole derbies... they seem to be somewhat underrepresented or underspecialized in apart from Alden & Vass BP/ P/ P2, Paraboot. Of course there are other makers but it doesn't seem to be a common flagship model. I'm sure I'm missing stuff here... fill me in. Perhaps my fondness for them is particularly american.
 

chesterfield

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just remembered the Weston chasse & demi-chasse. i really like the way the standard chasse leather ages. admittedly, i have only seen photographs of aged pairs. The Shooman The Shooman , what do you think of JM Weston?
typically i like darker leathers, very dark, but the chasse leather could be worth building up from it looks so good.
i did visit a jmw store. i saw the chasse and found it to be too much; my eye went right to the welt. i could have a different response if i saw them today. the demi-chasse looked good, but I was only taking in information; to be honest i think i was even confused looking at the model, comparing it to the images i'd seen online. there's a site called corner luxe, i'm assuming its a french consignment site, i haven't spent time there but they have the most distinctive search results for "weston chasse" on GI. i was looking at corner luxe photography, and then i was in the jmw store on madison avenue, and i was confused, but i was only taking in information. that was nearly two years ago, i hadn't spent as much time considering footwear. my eye is more developed now.
the sales assistant was nice... he gave me his business card. i believe that store closed and there is now no american jmw presence.
 
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