The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Pimpernel Smith

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6,596
I'm glad you like them!

He's a bespoke maker. I don't think one can order these without getting measured, trial shoe, etc. And if you check out his web presence even these seem somewhat different than what he usually makes. I believe he does do MTM but I don't think there's an RTW line. Even if he did I wouldn't consider it at the price it would probably punch... beyond a certain price point I can't stomach it unless its custom. I'm trying to be somewhat responsible with future shoe buying, get things that actually fit, fit perfectly, trying to understand and plan out how it should unfold; I don't know if I would be a good candidate for bespoke footwear, I might be. $$$$ though, but I have made expensive mistakes pretty regularly for about a year now. Another route I was considering taking was going to Budapest and getting measured in the store etc and going from there with different models, and I'd be a Vass guy. Don't have much information on Enzo Bonafe but I believe I could be measured in California and go from there, I need to look into it. I don't think I'm a big daddy; I want to be modest, but believe in what I've got.
I love doublesole derbies... they seem to be somewhat underrepresented or underspecialized in apart from Alden & Vass BP/ P/ P2, Paraboot. Of course there are other makers but it doesn't seem to be a common flagship model. I'm sure I'm missing stuff here... fill me in. Perhaps my fondness for them is particularly american.
There's crazy prices for bespoke shoes. A few years back, Tim Little were the most cost effective starting at GBP 1400, now they start at GBP 2550. They still must be pretty much the cheapest, but that's a hefty price rise in a decade. Their RTW TL14 is very good.

Greve here in the Netherlands do custom and alleged bespoke from their flagship store in Utrecht, but the prices are not much more than their RTW and seem unfeasible low. I've never been there so can't confirm.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,019
just remembered the Weston chasse & demi-chasse. i really like the way the standard chasse leather ages. admittedly, i have only seen photographs of aged pairs. The Shooman The Shooman , what do you think of JM Weston?
typically i like darker leathers, very dark, but the chasse leather could be worth building up from it looks so good.
i did visit a jmw store. i saw the chasse and found it to be too much; my eye went right to the welt. i could have a different response if i saw them today. the demi-chasse looked good, but I was only taking in information; to be honest i think i was even confused looking at the model, comparing it to the images i'd seen online. there's a site called corner luxe, i'm assuming its a french consignment site, i haven't spent time there but they have the most distinctive search results for "weston chasse" on GI. i was looking at corner luxe photography, and then i was in the jmw store on madison avenue, and i was confused, but i was only taking in information. that was nearly two years ago, i hadn't spent as much time considering footwear. my eye is more developed now.
the sales assistant was nice... he gave me his business card. i believe that store closed and there is now no american jmw presence.

Unfortunately l have had no opportunity to wear or see the J M Western `chase' in person, but l will comment on the style.
J M Western chase.jpg

It is one of those shoes that will divide people. For people like me, l know immediately it is my sort of shoe, and l immediately picture it will all types of outfits. It would suit my personality and look. I have wanted a pair for years.

For you it is probably different. It startled you, and you had to think about it. You know it is not your type of shoe, so best avoid it. Maybe one day you'll be ready, but maybe you will never be. Sometimes it can take a man a long time to understand a pair of shoes and the appeal behind it, but often a man will never understand many of the shoes.

I wonder why Hugo got rid of his pair. Did his tastes change?
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
52
Gentlemen, what do you think of these? Do you find them attractive?

View attachment 36758

I want to hear extensive responses on your impression of them. They are Hiro Yanagimachi bespoke. I love round toe derbies... I'm in pursuit of a perfect pair. I'm not sure the perfect pair is sitting somewhere; I may have to commission them. I'm trying to figure out what to do, if you have recommendations, please let me know. My heels are narrow, and my feet are somewhat narrow; this is not really suited to derby construction. It makes things challenging. I want to try a Vass derby on the P2 last but dont want to make a special order only to find out the last doesn't work... to be continued.
These shoes are really beautiful and, as it seems, impeccably made (Japanese are known to be very precise). I like very much colour and grained leather, not so the model, as I prefer sleek oxfords, but if you like derbies, they are a great example.
As regards to bespoke I can't give any suggestions, since I only have RTW and MTO, but, being able to afford it, it's of course a great option. If you like this style, Vass seem a very good choice, moreover I would suggest Saint Crispin's, a shoemaker based in Romania, that has similar lasts. A more affordable option, even though still of very good quality, could be the Spanish brand Carmina with their classic Forest last.
 
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florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
52
Unfortunately l have had no opportunity to wear or see the J M Western `chase' in person, but l will comment on the style.
View attachment 36774

It is one of those shoes that will divide people. For people like me, l know immediately it is my sort of shoe, and l immediately picture it will all types of outfits. It would suit my personality and look. I have wanted a pair for years.

For you it is probably different. It startled you, and you had to think about it. You know it is not your type of shoe, so best avoid it. Maybe one day you'll be ready, but maybe you will never be. Sometimes it can take a man a long time to understand a pair of shoes and the appeal behind it, but often a man will never understand many of the shoes.

I wonder why Hugo got rid of his pair. Did his tastes change?
This is a very unique, rather rustic style, not my favourite. Maybe could be of some interest:
https://sartorialnotes.com/2016/10/24/12-split-toe-shoes-j-m-weston-edward-green-saint-crispins/
 

Enrile

Well-Known Member
Messages
142
Gentlemen, what do you think of these? Do you find them attractive?

View attachment 36758

I want to hear extensive responses on your impression of them. They are Hiro Yanagimachi bespoke. I love round toe derbies... I'm in pursuit of a perfect pair. I'm not sure the perfect pair is sitting somewhere; I may have to commission them. I'm trying to figure out what to do, if you have recommendations, please let me know. My heels are narrow, and my feet are somewhat narrow; this is not really suited to derby construction. It makes things challenging. I want to try a Vass derby on the P2 last but dont want to make a special order only to find out the last doesn't work... to be continued.
It is clear that you will never get a bespoke shoe in the distance. But certainly an experienced shoemaker can get a good fit. I advise you to read this post written by Jesper on his blog ..... maybe it will help you to know what to expect

 

chesterfield

Member
Messages
13
There's crazy prices for bespoke shoes. A few years back, Tim Little were the most cost effective starting at GBP 1400, now they start at GBP 2550. They still must be pretty much the cheapest, but that's a hefty price rise in a decade. Their RTW TL14 is very good.

Greve here in the Netherlands do custom and alleged bespoke from their flagship store in Utrecht, but the prices are not much more than their RTW and seem unfeasible low. I've never been there so can't confirm.
I believe there is a maker named Maftei in Vienna. Considered good value for bespoke footwear, competent. I don't know much about him; but I think the prices start somewhere around EUR 1200. Could be all wrong here.
Unfortunately l have had no opportunity to wear or see the J M Western `chase' in person, but l will comment on the style.

It is one of those shoes that will divide people. For people like me, l know immediately it is my sort of shoe, and l immediately picture it will all types of outfits. It would suit my personality and look. I have wanted a pair for years.

For you it is probably different. It startled you, and you had to think about it. You know it is not your type of shoe, so best avoid it. Maybe one day you'll be ready, but maybe you will never be. Sometimes it can take a man a long time to understand a pair of shoes and the appeal behind it, but often a man will never understand many of the shoes.

I wonder why Hugo got rid of his pair. Did his tastes change?
You're right... I may never be ready for the chasse. Demi-chasse would be more likely for me, but I would really like to take a look again in person sometime. With continued exposure to stimulus tastes can and do develop over time.
It's not hard for me to see why Hugo sold his jmws... he's attracted most to Corthay, right? Suits his overall aesthetic better. It sounded like he was hustling in the beginning, trading shoes for other shoes, etc.
moreover I would suggest Saint Crispin's, a shoemaker based in Romania, that has similar lasts. A more affordable option, even though still of very good quality, could be the Spanish brand Carmina with their classic Forest last.
Thanks for responding florisgreen florisgreen . Are there any particular St Crispin lasts you suggest looking into? I have taken brief looks at their offerings, and have heard good things about their customer service and fitting protocols; it sounds like they take care of their customers. I like this. But the shoes felt a little sleek for my lifestyle; I'll have to revisit sometime. This is an issue with looking at shoes online of course, its hard to judge shape in an honest manner. Also, I am turned off by the contrast stitching brand signature, though I wonder if this is amenable when placing custom orders.

I also thought of another flagship doublesole derby- Church's Shannon. This was an early love of mine, but I never followed up on it. I considered pursuing the Shannon again but it seems that the Church's standard leather is not up to snuff. Wonder if anyone can comment on this. Also, I've read that after Prada group bought out Church's they began selling the Shannon on a newer last, despite it being a heritage model. Still, I love the lines here. It looks like a versatile shoe to me. Stitching on the throat looks a little rough here.

Shannon:
Screen Shot 2021-04-01 at 11.52.13 PM.png
 

chesterfield

Member
Messages
13
Today I began breaking in a pair of deadstock Florsheim Imperials.
My shot:
Screen Shot 2021-04-01 at 11.58.51 PM.png

Very excited about these. They've been in my closet for a while, I have not been out much with the health crisis but things are beginning to turn here, I will be undergoing a major move in a few weeks and I want these ready to service. Very stiff but I can tell they will break in and be extremely comfortable soon. Excellent fit.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
6,596
I believe there is a maker named Maftei in Vienna. Considered good value for bespoke footwear, competent. I don't know much about him; but I think the prices start somewhere around EUR 1200. Could be all wrong here.

You're right... I may never be ready for the chasse. Demi-chasse would be more likely for me, but I would really like to take a look again in person sometime. With continued exposure to stimulus tastes can and do develop over time.
It's not hard for me to see why Hugo sold his jmws... he's attracted most to Corthay, right? Suits his overall aesthetic better. It sounded like he was hustling in the beginning, trading shoes for other shoes, etc.

Thanks for responding florisgreen florisgreen . Are there any particular St Crispin lasts you suggest looking into? I have taken brief looks at their offerings, and have heard good things about their customer service and fitting protocols; it sounds like they take care of their customers. I like this. But the shoes felt a little sleek for my lifestyle; I'll have to revisit sometime. This is an issue with looking at shoes online of course, its hard to judge shape in an honest manner. Also, I am turned off by the contrast stitching brand signature, though I wonder if this is amenable when placing custom orders.

I also thought of another flagship doublesole derby- Church's Shannon. This was an early love of mine, but I never followed up on it. I considered pursuing the Shannon again but it seems that the Church's standard leather is not up to snuff. Wonder if anyone can comment on this. Also, I've read that after Prada group bought out Church's they began selling the Shannon on a newer last, despite it being a heritage model. Still, I love the lines here. It looks like a versatile shoe to me. Stitching on the throat looks a little rough here.

Shannon:
View attachment 36796
I've heard that the standard of leather and overall quality has gone down with Church's with the Prada takeover. They certainly have a lot of discounted shoes in the Cheshire Oaks McArthur Glenn Outlet Village in the UK. I bought a pair of their Oxfords with the equivalent of C&J's city sole a few years ago. It's a good shoe and last, but the sole doesn't give comfort that you can pound the pavements with it.

Their Consul 1945 in black, at present a Limited Edition, looks very decent indeed. But as with Church's in general, other than things like the Shanghai and the stuff looks like they've made for Pearly King and Queens, always seems to be very definitive versions of the type. Can make them ideal or boring depending on your position.
 

florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
52
Thanks for responding florisgreen florisgreen . Are there any particular St Crispin lasts you suggest looking into? I have taken brief looks at their offerings, and have heard good things about their customer service and fitting protocols; it sounds like they take care of their customers. I like this. But the shoes felt a little sleek for my lifestyle; I'll have to revisit sometime. This is an issue with looking at shoes online of course, its hard to judge shape in an honest manner. Also, I am turned off by the contrast stitching brand signature, though I wonder if this is amenable when placing custom orders.
I found these ones (633), they may not be exactly what you're looking for, but possibly worth a look:

tumblr_org67egwv01rrxwsto1_1280.jpg

They are definitely sleeker than the shoes you've shown, yet seem to have a lot of room. If you stick with very wide models, you could consider also Tricker's.
 
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florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
52
These would possibly appeal to you:
139568227_183259820208812_3204275106534431289_n.jpg

Handmade by "Passus", which I never heard of. From the pictures, seem to be high-grade shoes.
 

Journeyman

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Supporter
Messages
3,864
Handmade by "Passus", which I never heard of.

It was started a couple of years ago (I think) by Reszo Kuti, who was the sales manager at Vass for many years.

He left Vass and briefly moved to Dinkelacker, before then starting up his own shoe business, based in Hungary.

From what I read, Passus is a project between Kuti and Gabor Halmos. Halmos used to import Vass into the US and also runs the clothing website Sartoriale.com (which, as an aside, sometimes has some great stuff).
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Messages
4,975
A question for Shoey and the rest of you into high-end custom dress shoes - what is the typical turn-around time to have your shoes made, once you have been measured and put your money down?

I am still amazed that people continue to line-up to have Brian the boot maker at Roleclub make them a pair of boots that won’t be ready for two years! Is that normal in your world?


Due to the low volume handmade process, the current wait list is November 2023.​


 
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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,019
It's not hard for me to see why Hugo sold his jmws... he's attracted most to Corthay, right? Suits his overall aesthetic better.

That makes a lot of sense. He likes fancy shoes with fancy suits.

I also thought of another flagship doublesole derby- Church's Shannon. This was an early love of mine, but I never followed up on it. I considered pursuing the Shannon again but it seems that the Church's standard leather is not up to snuff. Wonder if anyone can comment on this. Also, I've read that after Prada group bought out Church's they began selling the Shannon on a newer last, despite it being a heritage model. Still, I love the lines here. It looks like a versatile shoe to me. Stitching on the throat looks a little rough here.

Shannon:
View attachment 36796


Church's make all different types of shoes, some GYW are made better than others. Church's used to sell the heritage models made the old Church's way with decent leathers (I think they might still sell them), the older lasts and built properly (the old Church's standards), but in recent years l did see a Shannon in thin flimsy grain corrected leather (really shiny) that looked cheap.

Many of the Church's are cheaper than they used to be 20 years ago. The salesmen will tell you that Church's retooled the factory and technology allows them to make them cheaper and pass on the savings to the customers, but much of that is untrue. Church's have cut the handwork out and now skimp on the materials used. It seems all the modern style lasts are now made to a lower standard. Some of the leathers are just not good. I still think they make the good ones though.

Btw, l have a pair of Church's on the 100 last that was built similar to the pre Prada pairs. Sadly the leather is starting to split after limited wears. I am shocked at how the leather has split given they have only been worn about 50 times. I've never had a pair split like this before. One of my favourite pairs.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,019
Church's also do blake stitched, blake-rapid and all types of shoes with their name on them now. They have done so for years. Many have paper thin soles and ltalian styling. You never see them online. Some strange ones are GYW in an Italian style with thin soles.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,019
A question for Shoey and the rest of you into high-end custom dress shoes - what is the typical turn-around time to have your shoes made, once you have been measured and put your money down?

I am still amazed that people continue to line-up to have Brian the boot maker at Roleclub make them a pair of boots that won’t be ready for two years! Is that normal in your world?


Due to the low volume handmade process, the current wait list is November 2023.​


If your maker is doing it all without staff, and if they are good, the time will be long. If they use staff and out workers the time won't be as long. Of course it is not as simple as what l say here, there can be other factors involved.

Obviously they like his work and he is the only man doing it, so they are happy to wait. This is especially a factor if one lives locally and is measured by the bootmaker, and especially if he is the best maker in the area. I can't imagine many bootmakers in LA hand making shoes like the bloke at roleclub. The locals would obviously know the value they get from owning boots by this maker, so the wait time is a non issue.

To get my shoe maker to do some restitching work l may have to wait over a year (he only makes 12 pair per year). If l want to get my jumper re-knitted in parts or altered l currently have to wait over 1 year. For me the wait time is a non issue, it's all about getting what you want. Sometimes only one person can do the job, and this can be especially so if they are local.
 

chesterfield

Member
Messages
13
Their Consul 1945 in black, at present a Limited Edition, looks very decent indeed. But as with Church's in general, other than things like the Shanghai and the stuff looks like they've made for Pearly King and Queens, always seems to be very definitive versions of the type. Can make them ideal or boring depending on your position.
I'd love to see a photograph of the shoe you're talking about.
And that's a good way to describe the heritage models. After trying them on and telling the salesperson I was genuinely impressed with how good they looked on my feet, he said that some of the models in the shop were 100 years old, the Shannon was not quite there but certainly approaching it. I would love to handle some of those older builds.
I found these ones (633), they may not be exactly what you're looking for, but possibly worth a look:

View attachment 36798
They are definitely sleeker than the shoes you've shown, yet seem to have a lot of room. If you stick with very wide models, you could consider also Tricker's.
These are really handsome...thank you for posting these. I can picture them on my feet and paired with multiple outfits. Nice balanced proportions- very good. I am going to consider St Crispins more seriously.
I've got a pair of Tricker's chelseas... they are well worn and really helped me through this especially cold winter. But after going through it with them I don't feel the urge to pursue the brand further. I'd love to see some other models in person but for some reason the brand doesn't feel quite right for me. I do like my chelseas. Not the most fantastic fit, but the last is quite attractive in its unusual way. They're good for daily life.
 

Sammy Ambrose

Well-Known Member
Messages
199
Shooey wrote:

...in recent years l did see a Shannon in thin flimsy grain corrected leather (really shiny) that looked...


Shannon has always been polished binder, hasn"t it?
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,019
I'd love to see a photograph of the shoe you're talking about.
And that's a good way to describe the heritage models. After trying them on and telling the salesperson I was genuinely impressed with how good they looked on my feet, he said that some of the models in the shop were 100 years old, the Shannon was not quite there but certainly approaching it. I would love to handle some of those older builds.

These are really handsome...thank you for posting these. I can picture them on my feet and paired with multiple outfits. Nice balanced proportions- very good. I am going to consider St Crispins more seriously.
I've got a pair of Tricker's chelseas... they are well worn and really helped me through this especially cold winter. But after going through it with them I don't feel the urge to pursue the brand further. I'd love to see some other models in person but for some reason the brand doesn't feel quite right for me. I do like my chelseas. Not the most fantastic fit, but the last is quite attractive in its unusual way. They're good for daily life.

Trickers used to make many great models, but these days nothing seems too appealing. I have some fantastic pairs of Trickers that l value very much, but they are almost 20 years old.

Here is an old photo of a pair of Trickers l own. You don't see Trickers that look like that anymore. Such great classics.

Why those shoe trees? Because you couldn't get proper trees in Australia back at that time. Trees were rare.
Trickers gunboat - mine.jpg



Here is another pair of classics. No-one does country shoes like Trickers used to. Double soled Trickers with the wide welt are the tops. These derby's are extremely comfortable (have two pairs).
Trickers 4.jpgTrickers 5.jpg

Do Vass make better shoes? Yes, but Trickers do the best styled country GYW shoes of anyone in the world, IMO.
 
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Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,330
I believe there is a maker named Maftei in Vienna. Considered good value for bespoke footwear, competent. I don't know much about him; but I think the prices start somewhere around EUR 1200. Could be all wrong here.

You're right... I may never be ready for the chasse. Demi-chasse would be more likely for me, but I would really like to take a look again in person sometime. With continued exposure to stimulus tastes can and do develop over time.
It's not hard for me to see why Hugo sold his jmws... he's attracted most to Corthay, right? Suits his overall aesthetic better. It sounded like he was hustling in the beginning, trading shoes for other shoes, etc.

Thanks for responding florisgreen florisgreen . Are there any particular St Crispin lasts you suggest looking into? I have taken brief looks at their offerings, and have heard good things about their customer service and fitting protocols; it sounds like they take care of their customers. I like this. But the shoes felt a little sleek for my lifestyle; I'll have to revisit sometime. This is an issue with looking at shoes online of course, its hard to judge shape in an honest manner. Also, I am turned off by the contrast stitching brand signature, though I wonder if this is amenable when placing custom orders.

I also thought of another flagship doublesole derby- Church's Shannon. This was an early love of mine, but I never followed up on it. I considered pursuing the Shannon again but it seems that the Church's standard leather is not up to snuff. Wonder if anyone can comment on this. Also, I've read that after Prada group bought out Church's they began selling the Shannon on a newer last, despite it being a heritage model. Still, I love the lines here. It looks like a versatile shoe to me. Stitching on the throat looks a little rough here.

Shannon:
View attachment 36796
Trickers Robert Tramper shoe is similar to the Shannon. I have the Robert in mogano cordovan and I am very happy with it.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,330
Trickers used to make many great models, but these days nothing seems too appealing. I have some fantastic pairs of Trickers that l value very much, but they are almost 20 years old.

Here is an old photo of a pair of Trickers l own. You don't see Trickers that look like that anymore. Such great classics.

Why those shoe trees? Because you couldn't get proper trees in Australia back at that time. Trees were rare.
View attachment 36803



Here is another pair of classics. No-one does country shoes like Trickers used to. Double soled Trickers with the wide welt are the tops. These derby's are extremely comfortable (have two pairs).
View attachment 36804View attachment 36805

Do Vass make better shoes? Yes, but Trickers do the best styled country GYW shoes of anyone in the world, IMO.
I have Trickers Abingdon in brown museum calf. It looks more like an Edward Green Dover, but at a more sensible price.

None of my Trickers are country shoes. I have a Trickers Belgrave (an Adelaide style) with a channeled sole. Again very well priced.
 

Kingstonian

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,330
Their Consul 1945 in black, at present a Limited Edition, looks very decent indeed. But as with Church's in general, other than things like the Shanghai and the stuff looks like they've made for Pearly King and Queens, always seems to be very definitive versions of the type. Can make them ideal or boring depending on your position.
I have a black calf Church’s consul (non limited edition) bought at the factory shop for a sensible price. It is a handy shoe for wearing with suits. As far as I can see, the limited edition has a gold stamp on the sole but not much else has changed from the regular version.
 

Pimpernel Smith

Well-Known Member
Messages
6,596
I have a black calf Church’s consul (non limited edition) bought at the factory shop for a sensible price. It is a handy shoe for wearing with suits. As far as I can see, the limited edition has a gold stamp on the sole but not much else has changed from the regular version.
Just seen that, very gimmicky trick. I thought they only had it as a Limited Edition, seems somewhat pointless.
 

Sammy Ambrose

Well-Known Member
Messages
199
Shooey wrote:

...in recent years l did see a Shannon in thin flimsy grain corrected leather (really shiny) that looked...


Shannon has always been polished binder, hasn"t it?
Can anyone confirm that at one time Shannon was not a 'polished ' finish as Shooey is suggesting?
 

Thruth

Created the finest posts in internet forum history
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I'd love to see a photograph of the shoe you're talking about.
And that's a good way to describe the heritage models. After trying them on and telling the salesperson I was genuinely impressed with how good they looked on my feet, he said that some of the models in the shop were 100 years old, the Shannon was not quite there but certainly approaching it. I would love to handle some of those older builds.

These are really handsome...thank you for posting these. I can picture them on my feet and paired with multiple outfits. Nice balanced proportions- very good. I am going to consider St Crispins more seriously.
I've got a pair of Tricker's chelseas... they are well worn and really helped me through this especially cold winter. But after going through it with them I don't feel the urge to pursue the brand further. I'd love to see some other models in person but for some reason the brand doesn't feel quite right for me. I do like my chelseas. Not the most fantastic fit, but the last is quite attractive in its unusual way. They're good for daily life.
You know, I'd suggest most other higher end makers before StC. They are nice but I would not rate them as spectacular. Certainly at what they cost now for no particular good reason. My least favourite of my makes. I'll pay Big Johnny Lobb no problem. Not in my favourite AH makes either. I'll take my squeaky Papa Kiss boots as well as several others over StC any day.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
3,019
Shooey wrote:

...in recent years l did see a Shannon in thin flimsy grain corrected leather (really shiny) that looked...


Shannon has always been polished binder, hasn"t it?

Can't remember, it's been a long time.
You know, I'd suggest most other higher end makers before StC. They are nice but I would not rate them as spectacular. Certainly at what they cost now for no particular good reason. My least favourite of my makes. I'll pay Big Johnny Lobb no problem. Not in my favourite AH makes either. I'll take my squeaky Papa Kiss boots as well as several others over StC any day.

Thruth Thruth why don't you rate St Crispin too highly? Leather quality, build? I could have bought a pair, but l would never want to support such a company. Too many red flags, and lo and behold, looks like my intuitions were spot on.

Yep, BIG Johnny Lobb are pretty special. The designs along with the balance of the pattern and lasts have complete wow factor. None of the English shoes do what Johnny Lobb do. Funny enough, l had a dream last night about John Lobb...l picked up a pair of navy Lobbs. A good dream.

Funny enough, one of my Kiss shoos squeaks too. Materna makes great shoes, but l still love my Vass, and l have a pair on today.
 
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florisgreen

Well-Known Member
Messages
52
Can anyone confirm that at one time Shannon was not a 'polished ' finish as Shooey is suggesting?

.
s-l1600 (1).jpg

I found these in an old ebay ad: seem to be no polished binder. If I remember well, I had a Church's catalogue from the beginning of the 2000s in which the Shannon, as long as the Consul, was offered in two different leather kinds. The plastic, artificial look of the polished binder is really not my taste, moreover it's going to crack at the creasing, very bad issue. I do like the look of some Church's, but don't find the quality satisfactory, and the fit was not best for me, no matter the last, so I sold all my pairs.
 
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florisgreen

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Messages
52
My latest buy in footwear: Gaziano&Girling Papworth in Cashew Burnished Calf Sq Deco last, RTW.
20210403_104614.jpg

Still unworn. The broguing is on a wholecut. Actually I'd have liked to have them in several pieces instead, but when I asked for it, they told me they won't do that, since this would be something between a MTO and a Bespoke. Particularly fond of that heart-shaped facing.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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Messages
199
.View attachment 36808
I found these in an old ebay ad: seem to be no polished binder. If I could remember well, I had a Church's catalogue from the beginning of the 2000s in which the Shannon, as long as the Consul, was offered in two different leather kinds. The plastic, artificial look of the polished binder is really not my taste, moreover it's going to crack at the creasing, very bad issue. I do like the look of some Church's, but don't find the quality satisfactory, and the fit was not best for me, no matter the last, so I sold all my pairs.
Thanks for the research. I had thought that Shannon had always been a polished finish. I remember Leatherman from AAAC talking abou his a good few years ago.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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199
My latest buy in footwear: Gaziano&Girling Papworth in Cashew Burnished Calf Sq Deco last, RTW.View attachment 36809
Still unworn. The broguing is on a wholecut. Actually I'd have liked to have them in several pieces instead, but when I asked for it, they told me they won't do that, since this would be something between a MTO and a Bespoke. Particularly fond of that heart-shaped facing.
Beautiful shoe. I have a similar if perhaps not as nice brogued whole cut , the Herring Rushden II, made by Cheaney. Being a wholecut, they seem to keep their shape particularly well.
 

fxh

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Shooey, I know a few older blokes who weren’t Big Daddys and weren’t into clothes much, but always bought Churches from McClouds but always in binder.
 

sirloin

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I think I threw out my old Church catalog a few years ago. But did check Roetzels "Gentleman". Here he raves about the Shannon (loosely translated..)
"Such a Derby or Blucher is suitable for everyone, who doesn't have to wear elegant Oxfords in the office. Especially in southern europe, a caramel coloured Shannon is particularly popular. Here it's worn with grey flannels and a blue blazer, but it also suits velvet and jeans".

In the accompanied picture, the leather doesn't look super shiny. In profile, the shoo looks totally different, with less toespring and a non-bolbous toe. So.. who knows how much have been adjusted over the years..
 

The Shooman

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Shooey, I know a few older blokes who weren’t Big Daddys and weren’t into clothes much, but always bought Churches from McClouds but always in binder.

fxh fxh but remember that 25 years ago there wasn't much available in Oz for shoos. If you bought Church's 25 years ago and lived in Melbourne, you WERE a Big Daddy of Melbourne. These days the standards are much higher because we have access to more prestigious footwear and clothing, so being a big daddy requires going `all the way'.
 

Thruth

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Can't remember, it's been a long time.


Thruth Thruth why don't you rate St Crispin too highly? Leather quality, build? I could have bought a pair, but l would never want to support such a company. Too many red flags, and lo and behold, looks like my intuitions were spot on.

Yep, BIG Johnny Lobb are pretty special. The designs along with the balance of the pattern and lasts have complete wow factor. None of the English shoes do what Johnny Lobb do. Funny enough, l had a dream last night about John Lobb...l picked up a pair of navy Lobbs. A good dream.

Funny enough, one of my Kiss shoos squeaks too. Materna makes great shoes, but l still love my Vass, and l have a pair on today.
The Shooman The Shooman , I find StC lightweight and not in a good way with flimsy construction. Not cheap but that is how they feel when held or wearing. Leather is fine. Just not impressed with them from the start and certainly a less likeable shoe compared to my other AH makes.
 

Lumpen

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673
fxh fxh but remember that 25 years ago there wasn't much available in Oz for shoos. If you bought Church's 25 years ago and lived in Melbourne, you WERE a Big Daddy of Melbourne. These days the standards are much higher because we have access to more prestigious footwear and clothing, so being a big daddy requires going `all the way'.


Through the night we rise in pairs Lords at night we ride From the depths of Hell's domain Reborn to reign this night Roam throughout the endless wars Hold high his name we must Warriors from the gates of Hell In Lord Satan we trust Stalking the night can't you feel I'm near Watching each step that you take I take lives and show all no mercy this night Attack those not knowing my force ("...their fate") [1:st & 3:rd time] Brothers of the Prince of Night By bargains we have made Allies with the darkened souls Our legions we must save Fight for our eternal quest God can't save you in time Evil stalks the night with us Your soul it shall be mine I am the menace in your eyes The one you can't escape Your life falls in my grasp Your know your end is near You pray your God will help His strength no match for mine Your last hope slips away Thy soul begins to bleed I tear your flesh to shreds Burn holes throughout your mind Your eyes now filled with blood A victim of my force In endless agony You realize your defeat Recite my Master's chants Your soul now his to keep
 

Thruth

Created the finest posts in internet forum history
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Through the night we rise in pairs Lords at night we ride From the depths of Hell's domain Reborn to reign this night Roam throughout the endless wars Hold high his name we must Warriors from the gates of Hell In Lord Satan we trust Stalking the night can't you feel I'm near Watching each step that you take I take lives and show all no mercy this night Attack those not knowing my force ("...their fate") [1:st & 3:rd time] Brothers of the Prince of Night By bargains we have made Allies with the darkened souls Our legions we must save Fight for our eternal quest God can't save you in time Evil stalks the night with us Your soul it shall be mine I am the menace in your eyes The one you can't escape Your life falls in my grasp Your know your end is near You pray your God will help His strength no match for mine Your last hope slips away Thy soul begins to bleed I tear your flesh to shreds Burn holes throughout your mind Your eyes now filled with blood A victim of my force In endless agony You realize your defeat Recite my Master's chants Your soul now his to keep

You like Slayer? What happened to Frankie Knuckles and getting rogered with a wire brush in Ibiza?
 

Lumpen

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673
hates heals!


Drones since the dawn of time
Compelled to live your sheltered lives
Not once has anyone ever seen
Such a rise of pure hypocrisy
I'll instigate, I'll free your mind
I'll show you what I've known all this time
God hates us all
God hates us all
You know it's true God hates this place
You know it's true he hates this race
Homicide, suicide
Hate heals, you should try it sometime
Strive for peace with acts of war
The beauty of death we all adore
I have no faith distracting me
I know why your prayers will never be answered
God hates us all
God hates us all
God hates us all
God hates us all
Yeah, he fuckin' hates me
Pessimist, terrorist targeting the next mark
Global chaos feeding on hysteria
Cut throat, slit your wrist, shoot you in the back fair game
Drug abuse, self…


Pessimist, terrorist targeting the next mark
Global chaos feeding on hysteria
Cut throat, slit your wrist, shoot you in the back fair game
Drug abuse, self abuse searching for the next high
Sounds a lot like hell is spreading all the time
I'm waiting for the day the whole world fuckin' dies
 
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