The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

The Shooman

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Today's shoos.

With warmer weather on the way l pulled these out for the first time since about March. Maiden voyage for the wonderful trousers too.

- Lattanzi shoos
- Custom rare 15 oz wool trousers
- no name aussie sox from local factory down the road.

20221105_182942.jpg
 

The Shooman

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Meanwhile my old mate W.I Shooguy is still buying shoes like people consume hot dinners, pair after pair after pair. 8 new pairs in the last month. One day when he breaks out of his addiction he'll say `what was l thinking'.

However our mate is trying to move from junioor shoomen to higher levels by gaining some big daddy friends in the Kirby style. This is his first attempt talking to the big shoo daddies.


I think some guys are meant to be junioor shoomen, and l think W.I.Shooguy should know his place on the ladder. He has that Junioor quality and there's nothing he can do about it.
 

Sammy Ambrose

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1,330
Meanwhile my old mate W.I Shooguy is still buying shoes like people consume hot dinners, pair after pair after pair. 8 new pairs in the last month. One day when he breaks out of his addiction he'll say `what was l thinking'.

However our mate is trying to move from junioor shoomen to higher levels by gaining some big daddy friends in the Kirby style. This is his first attempt talking to the big shoo daddies.


I think some guys are meant to be junioor shoomen, and l think W.I.Shooguy should know his place on the ladder. He has that Junioor quality and there's nothing he can do about it.

He is a very genuine, unassuming guy - unlike Kirby.

A good interview.

Btw, why can't Tony G make his mind up whether gemming has an initial /j/ or /g/?
 
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The Shooman

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He is a very genuine, unassuming guy - unlike Kirby.

A good interview.

Btw, why can't Tony G make his mind up whether gemming has an initial /j/ or /g/?

It is good that he uses the correct pronunciation with the J. That cobbler started that silly habit of using the word with the G (g for going instead of g for gem), such a daft way to talk. Normal people in the industry call it gemming (jemming) tape.

and why do they make gemming tape? Because gemming failure is common. It is interesting how Tony says it is the manufacturers fault because the bloke does not stick on the gemming properly, and it may well be the case. Why? Because l did an experiment once....I got a pair of plyers and tried with all my strength to rip the gemming off my shoe, but l could not budge it. Then l applied salt and water to the area over time and tried ripped off the gemming again, but it would not budge. I tried for months to create gemming failure, but l failed to do so.

Tony's explanation says a lot. Why do some gems fail where-as others do not? Tony's answer makes sense, but he doesn't tell us the whole story IMO, naturally because he manufacturers GYW shoes. A hand welted always has the potential to make a much more elegant refined shoe than a GYW. The GYW on this G&G has the high platform edge

where-as the bespoke does not.

why? Because the feather is much higher in the gyw. And it makes for a stiffer insole imo for gyw because you have the plastic feather flexing against itself instead of working with the shoe like with hand welted. And the workshop process allows for infinite rebuilds where the factory process minimises rebuilds. Of course hand welted is king, but Tony and others are not going to tell the public that. But privately they can come clean when they know that you know.

(sorry for poor writing)
 

The Shooman

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Could have owned these, but l passed. A 8,650 euro shoe selling for much less. Only worn once. A deal of a lifetime, but are these gonna keep me awake at night?? Nah, l am passed it all now, i've mellowed in my older age. And even if l did buy it...what the heck am l gonna do with it??

Lattanzi shell cordovan norvegese loafers

Lattanzi norvegese shell loafers 3.jpg

Lattanzi norvegese shell loafers 5.jpg
Lattanzi norvegese shell loafers 4.jpg
 
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Sammy Ambrose

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1,330
Could have owned these, but l passed. A 8,650 euro shoe selling for much less. Only worn once. A deal of a lifetime, but are these gonna keep me awake at night?? Nah, l am passed it all now, i've mellowed in my older age. And even if l did buy it...what the heck am l gonna do with it??

Lattanzi shell cordovan norvegese loafers

View attachment 45406
View attachment 45407View attachment 45408
You were right to pass on them. Creased beyond salvation.
It is good that (Tony G) uses the correct pronunciation with the J. That cobbler started that silly habit of using the word with the G (g for going instead of g for gem), such a daft way to talk. Normal people in the industry call it gemming (jemming) tape.
Tony uses both. Sometimes it's/j/ and sometimes/g/.

I had this conversation with you ages ago on the Wardrobe, but is the origin of the word possibly 'gum' and 'gumming'?
 

The Shooman

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You were right to pass on them. Creased beyond salvation.

Tony uses both. Sometimes it's/j/ and sometimes/g/.

I had this conversation with you ages ago on the Wardrobe, but is the origin of the word possibly 'gum' and 'gumming'?

I often heard the word gemmed as a kid. I always thought it meant having something stuck so it couldn't come free. A check in good dictionaries doesn't confirm it though. Gumming doesn't sound right to me.

This evenings shoo. Ignore the rain on it. A comfy shoo.
Vass - today.jpg


I am going to wear mainly tan shoes for the next 5 months with the weekly dose of purple and navy. All my tans have been recently polished and are ready to go. Been looking forward to this for many months. It's gonna be tan nearly every day.
 

Mattrick

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Messages
177
Could have owned these, but l passed. A 8,650 euro shoe selling for much less. Only worn once. A deal of a lifetime, but are these gonna keep me awake at night?? Nah, l am passed it all now, i've mellowed in my older age. And even if l did buy it...what the heck am l gonna do with it??

Lattanzi shell cordovan norvegese loafers

You could have had them for substantially less. This seller bought them off RealReal for $295 (minus 20%).

 

The Shooman

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Good to see that you haven 't messed about trying to patinate your tan shoes. I am afraid I ruined 2 pairs in the past.

I wouldn't dare try to antique my tan pairs. Best to let them antique themselves.

Can you show examples of pairs you have ruined?
Good to see that you haven 't messed about trying to patinate your tan shoes. I am afraid I ruined 2 pairs in the past.
 

The Shooman

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4,299
You could have had them for substantially less. This seller bought them off RealReal for $295 (minus 20%).



So glad l never bought them. I don't like supporting hyenas who offer nothing to the market place. These slugs don't go around getting shoes from shops and estate sales, instead they buy online and sell at massive markups. Those are the worst types of humans, and l have no time for such behaviour. I will be taking note of this seller and marking in my files AVOID.

These ugly Lattanzi bespoke shoes were originally $300 and sold by a lady, but this hyena must have bought them. Now he has almost doubled the price. Not a fan of these weasels, they are the worst types of humans.

I am going to keep my eye on this snake and see what he gets up to. From what rock did he crawl out from. 🤮
 
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Mattrick

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177
These two at the bottom were on the same site for, if I recall, about $175.
Screenshot_20221107-212212_eBay.jpg


This pair, from a different seller, were on Vinted for about €150

Screenshot_20221107-212006_eBay.jpg
 

Mattrick

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177
And yes it bothers me too. It's one thing getting hold of items that are otherwise unavailable to the public, but these people are plundering items which should be there for enthusiasts on a low budget.

I noticed the other day that a prominent online menswear vendor has picked up some stock from a consignment store and is lying about its origins.
 

The Shooman

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4,299
These two at the bottom were on the same site for, if I recall, about $175.
View attachment 45420

This pair, from a different seller, were on Vinted for about €150

View attachment 45421

Wow, that black crocadile pair is a 20,000 euro shoe. The uppers are also completely hand sewn,a complete work of art. I nearly bought a pair once for $$$$, but the issue was filling all the paperwork for an import licence and all the red tape required bringing through Australian customs, and then doing a return if they didn't fit. Aussie customs requires lots of messing around. How on earth do they sell 20,000 euro shoes for $175 GBP????
 
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Mattrick

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177
I said the two at the bottom. I don't recall seeing the Croc pair, but if he let them go for $625 then he probably got a bargain from somewhere.
 

The Shooman

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Vietnamese shoes. Those asian makers are really stepping it up. It is amazing how the shoo world has changed in recent years. So many are making hand welted footwear with antiquing, and for not much money either.

 

Neufneuf

New Member
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2
Hey guys! So, I have a question that has been bugging me for a while but I just couldn’t find an answer to that: What do you mean when you talk about „BIG John Lobb“?

Is BIG John Lobb = John Lobb 1849 and normal John Lobb = John Lobb Bootmaker? Or is there something else I’m missing? Because I feel like I have also heard BIG John Lobb with models that were made by John Lobb Bootmaker/Paris.
 

The Shooman

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4,299
Hey guys! So, I have a question that has been bugging me for a while but I just couldn’t find an answer to that: What do you mean when you talk about „BIG John Lobb“?

Is BIG John Lobb = John Lobb 1849 and normal John Lobb = John Lobb Bootmaker? Or is there something else I’m missing? Because I feel like I have also heard BIG John Lobb with models that were made by John Lobb Bootmaker/Paris.

G'day N Neufneuf , BIG John Lobb applies to all the John Lobbs. It is called BIG because John Lobb is for people well advanced in their shoe journey, and the name John Lobb is as big as it gets. I remember being told about John Lobb long before the internet ever existed, it was something that was made to sound really big and grand, ie the shoos of shoos, and only something for BIG daddies. So when you tell a man you wear John Lobb, that is all that needs to be said; with the bespoke options, even more so.
 

Neufneuf

New Member
Messages
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G'day N Neufneuf , BIG John Lobb applies to all the John Lobbs. It is called BIG because John Lobb is for people well advanced in their shoe journey, and the name John Lobb is as big as it gets. I remember being told about John Lobb long before the internet ever existed, it was something that was made to sound really big and grand, ie the shoos of shoos, and only something for BIG daddies. So when you tell a man you wear John Lobb, that is all that needs to be said; with the bespoke options, even more so.
Thank you a lot for clarifying that, Shooman. Really appreciate it! That explains a lot!

I was recently offered a pair of John Lobbs for relatively little money and while I'm usually not a huge fan of shoes with gemming, I thought about giving them a try because I feel like they have a pretty good reputation around here - I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing something huge.

Interestingly, they seem to be a "vintage" pair, as it is a City on the 8695 last. I found some info on a Japanese Website I ran through google translate and it seems they switched the city from the 8695 to the 7000 in 2007, so the shoe must be >15 years old. Really excited to see how they held up. I would also love to see if there are any quality differences between those older ones and their new shoes, but I guess I would have to take them apart to see that, which is something I definitely won't do.
 

The Shooman

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Thank you a lot for clarifying that, Shooman. Really appreciate it! That explains a lot!

I was recently offered a pair of John Lobbs for relatively little money and while I'm usually not a huge fan of shoes with gemming,

Wow, you must be high up in the `shoo world' to be having thoughts like that. What type of shoes are you into?

Interestingly, they seem to be a "vintage" pair, as it is a City on the 8695 last. I found some info on a Japanese Website I ran through google translate and it seems they switched the city from the 8695 to the 7000 in 2007, so the shoe must be >15 years old. Really excited to see how they held up. I would also love to see if there are any quality differences between those older ones and their new shoes, but I guess I would have to take them apart to see that, which is something I definitely won't do.

Do you know why Lobb is so good? It is the iconic styles they have (loathe the word iconic, but l will use it here) and/or how some transform the foot, and just the perfection of the pattern/style on the last. Few shoe companies are able to do what Lobb does in my experience. Some critics say no Lobb has the wow factor, but those guys just don't get it IMO, ie, they are not able to see the Lobb magic. Edward Green can be very nice, but they just don't have the Lobb magic that some of the shoes contain.

Going to wear the Lopez today in black. It looks very ordinary in pictures and when you see it in person, but it transforms the foot into something of beauty, or at least my foot. An amazing shoe imo.

The captoe on the 8695 last is one of the great captoes, far nicer than any of Edward Green's offerings, it is perfection. Why? It is a shapely and perfect round toe last, and it doesn't have the flat inside of the EG 202 that is almost like a banana last, pthh. The Lobb city on the 8695 is a powerful shoe, so enjoy some of the best styling of what Lobb has to offer. The `city' on the 7000 last is a really fancy shoe that can transform the right type of foot, and it is also perfection. Sure, the hand welted construction is always better, but not many shoes have the perfection of styling on the great lasts that Lobb has, so sometimes the sacrifices are worth it.
 
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The Shooman

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This is a very good video. This bloke buys an old pair of shoes, strips the polish off them, irons them, reshapes them, and antiques them.

 

Dropbear

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I’ve been wearing these Benzein engineers for six months now and the fit is still excellent. They took the Kujang last and added some extra width up front while narrowing the heel a little for me.

70143D0A-2927-4D70-ACB6-4817795B5C09.jpeg


Honestly, I feel I got pretty lucky with the fit. I’ve seen a lot of other guys fish about the quality of their order and then quietly list them for sale a few months later because the fit wasn’t quite right.

Anyway, I was looking at what else they do on that last to see if I could get a pair of black boots that could be worn with trousers to the office (engineers are strictly casual, imo). I already have half a dozen brown RMWs, so I’m thinking maybe jodhpurs or side-zips:




 

The Shooman

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I

Have never tried ironing a shoe. I am honestly not sure if I ever will despite being impressed with the great job done in the video

Bespoke Addict irons his shoes too.

I watched another bloke who puts his shoes in the sink with dish soap and washes/scrubs the insides of his shoes (bad idea). Completely submerges them in soapy water and uses a scrubbing brush to clean the inside. Wish l could find the video.
 

Dropbear

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The Shooman

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Almost Christmas time, so some bonus shoo shots like fxh fxh does. It was a hot day so l pulled out the really good shoos and sox. Nice comfy casual today.

btw, feet are not on the seat, l would never do that.
Today's shoos 1.jpg


Today's shoos 2.jpg
 

The Shooman

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Looking at the shoes sold at Harrolds. Do l hold off for a few days and hope to score a nice sale? Do l really need any shoes?

Really loving this Artioli they are selling. Very pricey at 3K though.
Artioli shoes - brown derby 1.jpg


Compare this to the less elegant Gaziano and Girling below.
Gaziano and Girling cherry red oxford.jpg


The construction may be lighter on the Artioli, but sometimes a man wants elegance and sophistication to his shoes. It is not always about longevity, sometimes a man just wants to be reckless and enjoy the equivalent to fine wine. Sometimes a man wants to wear brilliant trousers with stunning shoes, so Artioli becomes an option.

Here is another Artioli that is my type of style. Igents would never approve, but what do they know.
Artioli shoes - brown derby 2.jpg


You are not going to get that look in goodyear welted but only in something hand welted with an invisible welt. Is 3K worth it for the look?? For a shoe collector it could well be. l could always pay over 5K for Edward Green top draw gyw for the look too, but that is getting beyond ridiculous at that point.

These are decisions shoomen have to make. Then again l could just be a cheap old b****** and just get these by Moreschi: have seen them in person , they look really nice. Are these as elegant and sophisticated as the Artioli?...no, but they are far less pricey. Then again, compromising is never worth it when it comes to shoes...sometimes a man just needs to go all out and get what he wants.

Then there is also Berluti in Melbourne, but these lack the sophistication and elegance of the Artioli. Basic factory shoes with no redeeming features, and at nearly $3,500 too. 🤮
Berluti Melbourne 1.jpg
Berluti Melbourne 2.jpg


Could do my dream shoo and do the Berluti bespoke, but that starts at $14,000 over here...probably even more now. 🥴
 
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Thruth

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New ownership at Dayton Boots and their MTO price is now $1,495 CAD. That is 2.4x the price I paid when I last ordered from them.
 

Dropbear

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New ownership at Dayton Boots and their MTO price is now $1,495 CAD. That is 2.4x the price I paid when I last ordered from them.

Jeez, even Viberg is cheaper than that, aren’t they?

I just looked-up my order receipt from 2018 and it was $640 CAD, though even then they were listing them for a lot more.
 
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