The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

Thruth

Big Winter Daddy
Messages
21,488
Jeez, even Viberg is cheaper than that, aren’t they?

I just looked-up my order receipt from 2018 and it was $640 CAD, though even then they were listing them for a lot more.
Their stock retail is lower than Viberg's stock price. Don't know what Viberg's MTO prices are. I'm not sure you can do it directly with them. Just looked at Viberg's site and the stock service boot can't be had for less than $1,100 CAD. $695 at Dayton.

Viberg's stock whole cut Chelsea is $1,360 CAD while Dayton's stock whole cut is $695 CAD. So you could MTO one with Dayton for the stock Viberg price. Still silly expensive.
 

fxh

OG Party Suit Wearer
Supporter
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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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4,299
Some comments of shoos.

Vass = fantastic ride and very well made, but they are extremely boring shoes (they bore me to tears...really basic shoes made well). Worth it for how they feel on your feet.
John Lobb = look nice, but they are factory made.
Edward Green = provides a classic look, but they are factory made.

It is good to have a variety to keep one somewhat interested, otherwise i'd be bored to tears by my shoos. Lattanzi always keeps me very interested (the only shoes that interest me), otherwise l am just so bored with it all. Even Santoni norvegese and Cleverley bespoke bores me. When l see shoos l wanna go to sleep...maybe it's time to retire from the `shoo world' and hand over the reigns to a younger man, but the problem is that there is no up and coming lads able to take the reigns; the only ones capable are the old school shoomen, so what happens?....do we just pack it up and close the gates?
 

Sammy Ambrose

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,330
Some comments of shoos.

Vass = fantastic ride and very well made, but they are extremely boring shoes (they bore me to tears...really basic shoes made well). Worth it for how they feel on your feet.
John Lobb = look nice, but they are factory made.
Edward Green = provides a classic look, but they are factory made.

It is good to have a variety to keep one somewhat interested, otherwise i'd be bored to tears by my shoos. Lattanzi always keeps me very interested (the only shoes that interest me), otherwise l am just so bored with it all. Even Santoni norvegese and Cleverley bespoke bores me. When l see shoos l wanna go to sleep...maybe it's time to retire from the `shoo world' and hand over the reigns to a younger man, but the problem is that there is no up and coming lads able to take the reigns; the only ones capable are the old school shoomen, so what happens?....do we just pack it up and close the gates?
Cheer up, Shooey.

Why not look at your shoes and other clothing from the aspect that you are making the world a more attractive better-looking place to live in? There is such ugliness around that people in good outfits and in good shape for their rigs are much needed.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,299
Cheer up, Shooey.

Why not look at your shoes and other clothing from the aspect that you are making the world a more attractive better-looking place to live in? There is such ugliness around that people in good outfits and in good shape for their rigs are much needed.

I do. It is a good thing. I feel l need to retire and put my feet up.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
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4,299
BIG John Lobb. Not the best workmanship. Waist sticks out more, heel sticks out more, and it is messy along the waist. Piece workers are not all great.
John Lobb - poor workmanship 2.jpg


Compared to Delos. All clean and close cut. Made by the expert himself.
Anthony Delos black oxford captoe 3.jpg
 

Sammy Ambrose

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,330
BIG John Lobb. Not the best workmanship. Waist sticks out more, heel sticks out more, and it is messy along the waist. Piece workers are not all great.
View attachment 45893

Compared to Delos. All clean and close cut. Made by the expert himself.
View attachment 45892
But you are not comparing like with like here, Shooey.

I agree that the waist of the Big Johnny is a little messy, but the lack of a 'pinched ' waist and the prominence of the heel are surely intentional.

This is a shoe to walk in and not to prance around in.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,299
Nah, if you are going to do a close cut waist etc then do it properly and show off the craftsman's skills.

A nice derby.
John Lobb London tan derby 3.jpg
 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Moderator
Messages
10,143
Is there any reason that elastic-sided chelsea boots are so prevalent while side-zips seem more informal and kinda 70s?

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Thruth

Big Winter Daddy
Messages
21,488
Is there any reason that elastic-sided chelsea boots are so prevalent while side-zips seem more informal and kinda 70s?

View attachment 45997View attachment 45998View attachment 45999View attachment 46000
Funny you should ask. I've been wearing a casual pair of shearling side zips this winter and digging them enough that I've been looking for some. I always had size zip boots when I was a kid. They were called Romeo boots. There still is pushback on them because of their 70's high cheese factor. But I think they are dead sexy.

The are popular in SF SWD but many of the top end shoemakers have them. Chelsea boots are still riding the wave of popularity. Given the 70's vibe Gucci and other brands are debuting, we might see more in the next couple of years.

Saint Laurent's Wyatt zip is the standard for SWD. But you have to like the high heels.

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Story et Fall has more affordable ones made in Vietnam I think. You have to dig a taller slanted heel though. TRW and MTO.

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Viberg with lower block heel. Way more casual.
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Buttero
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Maison Martin Margelia does them.
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Fetterman has a high cut pair of MMM!

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JM Weston has sexy RTW dress zips.

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Santoni.
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Carmina

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Testoni.

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Ferragamo's are kind of fruity.

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Cleverley goes over the top.
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Saint Crispin's


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Handwelted Romeo boot by Graziat Taipai. $675
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Lucchese has all kinds.
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Tom Ford
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G&G have done whacky bespoke ones.

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Husbands (Paris)

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Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Moderator
Messages
10,143
I kinda like those whole cut side-zips, but the not really digging the ones with the western/engineer vamp.

I’m probably going to order some elastic-sided Chelseas from Briselblack, since I know the last works for me. But I’m not ruling out their side zips and buckle jodhpurs.
 

The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,299
Thruth Thruth said "Funny you should ask. I've been wearing a casual pair of shearling side zips this winter and digging them enough that I've been looking for some. I always had size zip boots when I was a kid. They were called Romeo boots. There still is pushback on them because of their 70's high cheese factor. But I think they are dead sexy"


I had zip boots also; was also left a pair of Windsor Smith zip boots from my grand father when he passed. Zip boots were common in the 70's, and as a kid l saw them as a real passage to manhood. When l got my first pair l felt like a real big manly man. I might even have them in the back of the closet somewhere.





 

Dropbear

Member in Good Standing
Moderator
Messages
10,143
The spring cleaning and refresh of my gown-up clothing continues.

I pulled out these Daytons I haven’t worn for three years and decided I still really like them. The colour is beautiful and they are so freaking heavy and over built. The fit is good but somehow my feet always feel a little claustrophobic in there - maybe just because everything is stiff and rigid. Still, definitely keeping them and putting them back into rotation.

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On the other end of that spectrum are these snuff suede RMWs. Love the fit on all my RMWs and the suede is really nice for summer casual. The thing I don’t like about them is the low heel and thin, soft sole that belongs on something dressier. I feel like I am wearing slippers, given I am usually in something a lot more robust. I’m toying with the idea of resoling these with a leather midsole and something a bit more substantial. Not trying to turn them into work boots though.

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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,299
Australia's most famous Aussie shoemaker John Karandonis said:

"It is not easy trying to maintain any kind of footwear business in Australia. A shoemaker needs a knife-maker"
But that is actually not true. One of the best shoemakers who took me under his wing for some time told me a proper shoemaker would learn to make knives himself and make his own glue. It takes 3 months full time to learn how to sharpen a knife properly. Without great knife sharpening skills the shoemaking will be no good. The first job to become a great shoemaker = to learn how to sharpen a knife.
He also said that soles can be glued on using egg yolk if necessary, and stone houses can also be strong using egg yolk. He was an amazing fellow who studied 7 years to become an expert maker in Russia. He knew everything and stitched over 300 handmade pairs.


His handmade knife. Just a piece of steel sharpened with a a bit of leather shaped around it. Buying knives for shoemaking was no good, they had to be made bespoke.
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He also made shoos far superior to John Karandonis, Made specially for the local Australian market. How many aussie shoemakers have lasts that look like that? Very few, most aussie shoos are like orthopedic blobs.
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Alex knew everything and explained the economics of the men's and women's Australian shoe industry to me thoroughly.
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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,299
^^^^
Thanks for the link. I will listen to it in coming days, but a bit long though.

I decided to treat myself with my favourite make of shoos, the big daddy of shoos, Silvano Lattanzi. I had numerous choices to make, but l went back to the true and tried method of something reasonably restrained. I think these modern classics are stunning, especially the antiquing that makes them look like old wood. My choices were very limited, but this time l went away from the classic Lattanzi lasts and chose something with a chisel toe. I think l made a good choice. These can be worn with anything.

Old wood and modern classics. Still a safe choice.
Lattanzi.

Lattanzi monks - mine 1.jpg
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I could have bought Santoni limited editions, but they are not versatile, and they are not classics. The limited editions all have flash, but none of the lasts are on point, and when you are buying shoes that is usually a big mistake. Here were some of my choices:

Santoni Limited edition shoo. Looks promising on the side, doesn't it? But look at that Vass style toe.
Santoni limited edition navy 3 eyelet derby 2.jpg


and look further. Look, it's a mongrel last...a slick bottom half mixed with a high fronted Vass style front half. Santoni does this so many times, there lasts are terrible. These are also long and less wide. Aghh.



Santoni limited edition navy 3 eyelet derby 4.jpg




There were also these in a stunning galaxy patina, but the same old problem, ie a mongrel last.
Santoni limited edition 2 eyelet derby galaxy patina 2.jpg


A long shoe. Always a mistake.
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A real slick botton half of shoo combined with blobby dull looking toe. Another disaster from Santoni.

Santoni limited edition 2 eyelet derby galaxy patina 4.jpg



The great thing about Lobb and Edward Green is that their lasts are fantastic. Classics. Santoni are just a mess. lasts should always be classic.
 

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The Shooman

A Pretty Face
Messages
4,299
This was entertaining:



I was getting a bit bored by Rosey Anvil, but might go back to him another time.

Listened to Ronny Rider about shoe fitting. Very interesting (beware, Ronny uses foul language at times). Best thing he said was to stick with what you know. That is exactly what l do if buying online...eg, all my Lattanzi bought online are the same shape because l always stick to the same formulae when buying them. I am not willing to change the formulae and buy longer shoes etc, because things get much more complicated and mistakes can easily be made.
 
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Sammy Ambrose

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,330
I was getting a bit bored by Rosey Anvil, but might go back to him another time.

Listened to Ronny Rider about shoe fitting. Very interesting (beware, Ronny uses foul language at times). Best thing he said was to stick with what you know. That is exactly what l do if buying online...eg, all my Lattanzi bought online are the same shape because l always stick to the same formulae when buying them. I am not willing to change the formulae and buy longer shoes etc, because things get much more complicated and mistakes can easily be made.
I admire their enthusiasm. But it all seemed a bit overcomplicated.
What happened to wiggling your toes and seeing if you can slip a finger in between the back of the shoe and the back of the heel?
 
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