The All-Inclusive Shoe & Boot Thread

[Dropbear]

how do they fit?

The fit seems perfect, though I didn’t get a chance to wear them much yet. Nice and tight in the heel with a narrow waist, but wide in the front where needed. I’ll withhold final judgement until I’ve done some serious walking, but I’d say these could be some of the best fitting boots I’ve owned.

They sent me an extra insole I case they are too wide. I’m not sure how that was supposed to reduce width. It actually doesn’t change the fit all, aside from raising the foot 1-2mm.

 

[Thruth]

The fit seems perfect, though I didn’t get a chance to wear them much yet. Nice and tight in the heel with a narrow waist, but wide in the front where needed. I’ll withhold final judgement until I’ve done some serious walking, but I’d say these could be some of the best fitting boots I’ve owned.

They sent me an extra insole I case they are too wide. I’m not sure how that was supposed to reduce width. It actually doesn’t change the fit all, aside from raising the foot 1-2mm.

excellent

 

[Dropbear]

If I had standard sized feet, I could’ve bought something that looked very close for half the price. But with my big blobby feet, custom was my only option and these were priced well for this. The low vamp and slim waist add a little elegance to my duck flippers.

Still withholding final fit judgement until I’ve done some serious break-in, but so far very good. Absolutely no heel slip, which I’d gotten used to in basic desert boots and jodhpur boots.

I think these are satiating my Churches’ itch that has been around for 15 years.

 

[The Shooman]

My new pair arrived today. I think they are great! BIG daddies by Silvano Lattanzi. The shoe is dark brown, but not too dark; debating whether l make it really dark brown (would suit this style) or keep it a slightly lighter dark brown.

Look at how Lattanzi shapes the last, pattern and design of these shoos; wow, just brilliant. Top leather too, and all handmade. I could get Gaziano & Girling optimum range, but Lattanzi are better shoos and much more classy imo. No-one makes shoos like that imo, class all the way!



The last pair l may ever buy, ended it all on a high note. Will do a group shot of the family of BIG daddies when it stops raining (will post in Lattanzi thread).

 

[The Shooman]

^^^

Every time l get a pair of these it is always a special occasion. If l drank alcohol l would crack open a bottle of champagne to celebrate. Lattanzi will soon be a thing of the past, he is probably 70 now. Will the high standards of craftsmanship continue after he is gone? When will the special leather run out? Good things can't last forever.

 

[ALG]

Hi,

I’m looking for an advice. Purchased an EG Galway with Dainite sole. Almost 3 years ago. Kind of hate It as it’s seems it’s never going to break in (I’m in warm climate, Covid..) & the heel slippage..at least compared to Church’s double sole it stiff.

I’m thinking maybe resoling it w/single or double leather - what do you think?

also, what would be the closest feeling to single leather sole with some light rain protection?

Thanks!

ALG.

 

[Thruth]

Hi,

I’m looking for an advice. Purchased an EG Galway with Dainite sole. Almost 3 years ago. Kind of hate It as it’s seems it’s never going to break in (I’m in warm climate, Covid..) & the heel slippage..at least compared to Church’s double sole it stiff.

I’m thinking maybe resoling it w/single or double leather - what do you think?

also, what would be the closest feeling to single leather sole with some light rain protection?

Thanks!

ALG.

Heel slippage is not due to Dainite.

I have a pair of Galways on a single leather sole. A special make up from Tassel’s in HK. In retrospect I would have preferred double sole or Dainite. A double thickness sole seems appropriate for such a boot. Or an added midsole + single leather.

I have a pair of EG Nevis boots on a double leather sole and found that they broke in nicely as opposed to those on the web with gimpy feet who complain on how hard they are.

Horses for courses. YMMV.

 

[The Shooman]

The Silvano Lattanzi triple stitched sole - 5 stitches overall. No-one else does a triple stitched sole. All the others with 5 stitches are mainly fake decorative stitches, but not with Lattanzi.
.

.

Such a beautiful crocadile shoo

 

[The Shooman]

Steve made a good point about RMW at 7:30 minutes in. He said that most of the wearers of R.M.Williams wear boots that do not fit. It's true. I hardly see anyone wearing RMW with boots that fit right, they bag and sag all over the place and wrinkle terribly. Shocking lasts. People get the right size, but the boots are not made to fit hardly anyone.

 

[The Shooman]

Shoesnob gives a very interesting account of how the shoe industry has changed since COVID. Prices are going top rise a lot too. Difficult times.


Prices are so high in Oz that Alden are now $1,700 for shell models. Things are to expensive now. COVID has driven supply issues, and the climate alarmism have driven energy prices.

 

[Dropbear]

Steve made a good point about RMW at 7:30 minutes in. He said that most of the wearers of R.M.Williams wear boots that do not fit. It's true. I hardly see anyone wearing RMW with boots that fit right, they bag and sag all over the place and wrinkle terribly. Shocking lasts. People get the right size, but the boots are not made to fit hardly anyone.

Craftsman last in H: still the most comfortable and best fitting shoes/boots I’ve ever owned.

Horses for courses, YMMV, etc.

 

[Dropbear]

Found this on the interwebz. Dude found a pair of 1966 Florsheim Imperials on eBay for a few bucks and did some work on them:

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Found this on the interwebz. Dude found a pair of Florsheim Imperials on eBay for a few bucks and did some work on them:

View attachment 46563View attachment 46564View attachment 46565View attachment 46566

Brilliant.

 

[The Shooman]

You know the end is near when shoe companies start producing lots of sneakers and glued shoes. Poor old AE is trying to survive, but it is now becoming more of a casual shoe company and sneaker company, BUT people go along with it because it has the AE name and is made in America. .

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

I got my first pair of raw denim last night (well, first pair that actually fits), and I got these Courtsides in the mail right as I was about to leave for work. Oh, and they also have tongue branding for those of you out there who have strong opinions on tongue branding.

www.styleforum.net

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

I got my first pair of raw denim last night (well, first pair that actually fits), and I got these Courtsides in the mail right as I was about to leave for work. Oh, and they also have tongue branding for those of you out there who have strong opinions on tongue branding.

www.styleforum.net

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

I got my first pair of raw denim last night (well, first pair that actually fits), and I got these Courtsides in the mail right as I was about to leave for work. Oh, and they also have tongue branding for those of you out there who have strong opinions on tongue branding.

www.styleforum.net

Forget about making leather dress shoes, use canvass instead and save money. Hopefully people will not be sucked into accepting inferior hideous shoes.

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

New arrival! Picked up something interesting… I know they’re not everyone’s “cup of tea,” and honestly not mine at full price, but for what I got them for, figured why not :cool:

www.styleforum.net

Edward Green is doing it too, ie, cutting corners in making a number of their shoes and promoting them as comfort shoes while trading on their name. They have to compete against the Asian makers now.

This excellent video by Shoesnob warns about this. I don't agree with many things he says, but he makes fair points.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

You know the end is near when shoe companies start producing lots of sneakers and glued shoes. Poor old AE is trying to survive, but it is now becoming more of a casual shoe company and sneaker company, BUT people go along with it because it has the AE name and is made in America. .

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

I got my first pair of raw denim last night (well, first pair that actually fits), and I got these Courtsides in the mail right as I was about to leave for work. Oh, and they also have tongue branding for those of you out there who have strong opinions on tongue branding.

www.styleforum.net

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

I got my first pair of raw denim last night (well, first pair that actually fits), and I got these Courtsides in the mail right as I was about to leave for work. Oh, and they also have tongue branding for those of you out there who have strong opinions on tongue branding.

www.styleforum.net

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

I got my first pair of raw denim last night (well, first pair that actually fits), and I got these Courtsides in the mail right as I was about to leave for work. Oh, and they also have tongue branding for those of you out there who have strong opinions on tongue branding.

www.styleforum.net

Forget about making leather dress shoes, use canvass instead and save money. Hopefully people will not be sucked into accepting inferior hideous shoes.

The 2023 Allen Edmonds (AE) Appreciation Thread

New arrival! Picked up something interesting… I know they’re not everyone’s “cup of tea,” and honestly not mine at full price, but for what I got them for, figured why not :cool:

www.styleforum.net

Edward Green is doing it too, ie, cutting corners in making a number of their shoes and promoting them as comfort shoes while trading on their name. They have to compete against the Asian makers now.

This excellent video by Shoesnob warns about this. I don't agree with many things he says, but he makes fair points.

The end is definitely near. Just applaud the decision you once made to get plenty of good shoes.

 

[The Shooman]

The end is definitely near. Just applaud the decision you once made to get plenty of good shoes.

Think about it....

- Mr Vass is now old. Will they continue? Is there a large market for that type of shoe?
- Mr Lattanzi is now old, will his legacy continue?...I doubt it, the signs are there. Too expensive.
- Trickers are nothing on what they used to be. Ugly now.
- Edward Green are focused on promoting cheaper made shoes. Too dear.
- Fosters bespoke closed down.
- Delos bespoke closed down.
- Many bespoke makers need other things to supplement their income.
- Church's charge far too much now, big price increase to become a prestigious shoe.
- John Lobb and Cleverly will be o.k.

The shoos are too dear now and the people won't continue to pay the money; people will buy the mid range because the prices are less intimidating. Numerous people thought the top range would always be there and the middle level shoos would disappear, but then came China and Spain into the market.

Alden better watch themselves too, they are at big risk IMO. They are charging too much and will probably lose lots of business, but if they cut quality they will also lose business. If the follow AE and offer sneakers and cheaper made shoos they will lose their famous identity.

Hey Sammy Ambrose , remember Kiwi stopped supplying markets too. Not enough people buying shoos. I go to the shops or the city on the weekend and l don't see anyone in shoos. I am usually the only one these days.

 

[The Shooman]

The other issue is the lack of skills to make the shoes. Kids don't want to get their hands dirty these days. No factories or trade schools to learn blue collar jobs anymore. Many of the old cobblers are retiring too, and no young blokes coming up to replace them. What will happen to the Northampton shoo factories, where are all the skilled workers going to come from? Already we see terrible workmanship at AE because it would be very hard to find staff in the USA. Even China is a problem, people get paid more to work in I.T than shoe factories....China had to move factories inland so poor country workers would go to them. Things are crook.

 

[Dropbear]

I might be a little more optimistic:

There’s been a big resurgence in high quality hand welted work boots. It’s a tiny market compared to sneakers, but the craft looks set to survive. People are waiting in line for three years to give Brian the Bootmaker $2k+ to make them some bespoke boots that they will never do real work in. Meanwhile, the entry-level GYW boot market is near saturated with new brands like Thursdays and Grant Stone.

The world trend right now is very casual, so people are buying sneakers and work boots. But there is still a big subset who crave quality and artisanship. At some point the pendulum could swing back to suits and ties, at which point the blokes in Whites boots will be discovering Vass oxfords.

 

[kneeshuh]

To add to the previous post: I think boots is where GYW makers will have to place their focus from now on, boots and loafers.

Just look at Crockett & Jones: Their range is still huge, but every new model is some variation on a boot in the F/W collections, and loafers in the S/S collections.

I think that classic makers can survive, but they will have to adapt to making far more casual shoes if they want to remain relevant.

Sure, there will always be enthusiasts, but as a factory, you cannot survive on them alone.

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Chenners' replacement is trying to plug these holely loafers without success.

Ivy Style

The Classics Are For Everyone.

www.ivy-style.com

 

[sirloin]

Mr Vass is now old. Will they continue? Is there a large market for that type of shoe?

I imagine his daugther his daugther has been involved for years now, to make sure of that? The grandson is studying shoodesign in London, and has been allowed to test things on the website. https://vass-shoes.com/vass-x-pekanto/?v=dd65ef9a5579 So certainly trying to.

 

[sirloin]

Just look at Crockett & Jones: Their range is still huge, but every new model is some variation on a boot in the F/W collections, and loafers in the S/S collections.

The casual range is much larger, than it was 10 years ago. So as they have stopped producing for Ralph Lauren and others, they instead succeded to expand vertically.

 

[The Shooman]

I imagine his daugther his daugther has been involved for years now, to make sure of that?

Yes, Eva will ensure Vass runs into the future.

The grandson is studying shoodesign in London, and has been allowed to test things on the website. https://vass-shoes.com/vass-x-pekanto/?v=dd65ef9a5579 So certainly trying to.

Much a do about nothing. Pthh.

Wish l was a creator director for Vass. First thing I would do is put out a collection of classic and modern classic shoes put on various Edward Green and John Lobb lasts; some with antiquing and others without, and some with close cut bevelled waists and some without. I would put out a stunning collection of shoes with high stitches per inches on the soles and lower heels (not those big blocky things they use now). They would be like a bespoke quality John Lobb on rtw lasts selling for about 600 euro. I'd scrap the U, P2, F lasts etc and do those models properly, but i'd also keep the old AH classics so Vass still had a strong link to their roots and traditional customer base. Imagine if Vass did that. Igents would go crazy.

 

[Enrile]

Yes, Eva will ensure Vass runs into the future.

Much a do about nothing. Pthh.

Wish l was a creator director for Vass. First thing I would do is put out a collection of classic and modern classic shoes put on various Edward Green and John Lobb lasts; some with antiquing and others without, and some with close cut bevelled waists and some without. I would put out a stunning collection of shoes with high stitches per inches on the soles and lower heels (not those big blocky things they use now). They would be like a bespoke quality John Lobb on rtw lasts selling for about 600 euro. I'd scrap the U, P2, F lasts etc and do those models properly, but i'd also keep the old AH classics so Vass still had a strong link to their roots and traditional customer base. Imagine if Vass did that. Igents would go crazy.

Have you taken into account that Vass is only sold on Vass? maybe the agents would go crazy because of the lack of commercial margin. I believe that the main business of vass is selling to the end customer, not to the intermediary

 

[Sammy Ambrose]

Have you taken into account that Vass is only sold on Vass? maybe the agents would go crazy because of the lack of commercial margin. I believe that the main business of vass is selling to the end customer, not to the intermediary

There are 'agents' and also 'igents'. It's likely that Shooey meant the latter.

 

[The Shooman]

O oh....could it be that Allen Edmonds is taking a further decline by follow the trend of R M Williams, ie, making some shoes without toe puffs. Or did the maker forget to put the toe puff in. Even worse, it is on a shell cordovan pair. Not good.

 

[Dropbear]

O oh....could it be that Allen Edmonds is taking a further decline by follow the trend of R M Williams, ie, making some shoes without toe puffs. Or did the maker forget to put the toe puff in. Even worse, it is on a shell cordovan pair. Not good.

Unstructured toes are all the rage with the kids these days. They are even taking their boots in to get the celastic removed for that genuine, low-profile vintage look.

 

[Dropbear]

Structured vs Unstructured Toe Box and Shoe Sizing

In this post, I will try to explain the difference in construction of a structured toe box versus an unstructured toe box accompanied with some pics! The brands included in the following pics are:…

auntay.com

 

[The Shooman]

Unstructured toes are all the rage with the kids these days. They are even taking their boots in to get the celastic removed for that genuine, low-profile vintage look.

I can understand the thinking behind it, and l am sure the manufacturers are delighted they can use this excuse to skip steps in the shoemaking process, but it still goes against the principles of proper shoemaking. It is like companies like Edward Green making comfort shoes by gluing their soles etc, they use excuses to skip steps in the shoemaking process. Another trick is to make lighter shoes because shoes are suddenly too heavy for men to wear. So many excuses these days.

All good bespoke and top makers I know use structural support for their shoes so the shoes can keep the shape. People are fooled by the hype IMO and the manufacturers are happy to cash in on people's ignorance.

Cannot open the link you provided, does not provide a secure connection.

 

[Dropbear]

I can understand the thinking behind it, and l am sure the manufacturers are delighted they can use this excuse to skip steps in the shoemaking process, but it still goes against the principles of proper shoemaking. It is like companies like Edward Green making comfort shoes by gluing their soles etc, they use excuses to skip steps in the shoemaking process. Another trick is to make lighter shoes because shoes are suddenly too heavy for men to wear. So many excuses these days.

All good bespoke and top makers I know use structural support for their shoes so the shoes can keep the shape. People are fooled by the hype IMO and the manufacturers are happy to cash in on people's ignorance.

Cannot open the link you provided, does not provide a secure connection.

It’s a style choice. Lower profile toes look better for Instagram pics of the boots you don’t really wear. Gives that genuine vintage pre-1940s vibe for the modern Amish workwear nerds who also eschew zippers, artificial fibres, comfortable underwear and other modern innovations in the never-ending quest for ‘authenticity’ in the clothes they put on for photos after taking off the hoody and sweatpants.

Brands like White will offer celastic toes for people who really work in the or boots, and unstructured toes for people who are into photographing feet. High end Japanese boot brands are all about the Instagramable retro ‘authenticity’ over function, like these two thousand dollar Clinch boots:

Of course, if they are actually worn at all, the toe collapse becomes noticeable and less desirable. Also looks like it would be uncomfortable to me.

 

[The Shooman]

^^^

I think it is marvelous that you are into clothes and shoes and that you know about 2K boots.

I took photos of my updated Lattanzi collection (to be posted in Lattanzi thread), but here is a treat....my 4 favourite pairs of shoos.

Best leather ever = 3rd pair, simply amazing (favourite pair). Mind blowing natural patina.
4th pair has arch support and my foot sits in it like a dream.
All pairs are extremely comfortable.
Tan monk = 2nd favourite pair
4th pair = leather and artistry not as good as my other pairs.

 

[Dropbear]

 

[The Shooman]

A rare purchase sold on ebay lately for $600 USD. Florsheim 1930's boots with lasted trees. Was tempted to buy them myself...would have fit me too, would have been a good trophy for the `shoo room'.

 

[Dropbear]

New ownership at Dayton Boots and their MTO price is now $1,495 CAD. That is 2.4x the price I paid when I last ordered from them.

I just noticed that they changed their name to Wohlford and Sons:

Vancouver's celebrated Dayton Boots changing its name to Wohlford & Co. in forced rebranding

A highly regarded Vancouver footwear brand is being forced to give the boot to its old name following management controversy and a change in ownership. The new owners of Dayton Boots are rebranding as Wohlford & Company, named after the shop's original founder Charlie Wohlford. The rebrand will...

ca.news.yahoo.com

 

[The Shooman]

Thruth see quote above ^^^

have you seen the prices of St Crispins now? Over $2,000 USD. Alden shells are now $1,700 in my country. Things are far too crazy now. Vass is one of the only things that makes sense anymore; l love that company, good honest folks, ie, a great product for a great price. Everyone else is ruthless....too many price rises, so people will stop buying.

 

[The Shooman]

Wanted to bring out my old favourites today....letting it all hang out. Still love them as much as ever, still one of my favourite pairs. Had `em for many years.

Church's, and they feel like old friends, they feel fantastic, and they look great too. One of the better built pairs from Church's.

What do you think Sammy Ambrose ?

 

[Thruth]

Thruth see quote above ^^^

have you seen the prices of St Crispins now? Over $2,000 USD. Alden shells are now $1,700 in my country. Things are far too crazy now. Vass is one of the only things that makes sense anymore; l love that company, good honest folks, ie, a great product for a great price. Everyone else is ruthless....too many price rises, so people will stop buying.

DB was quoting me on the ridiculous rise in Dayton MTO costs. I just looked back on emails with Phillip Car at StC in 2010 and the cost of the MTO was under $1,000 USD.

 

[Enrile]

everything has gone up, and you may think that it is no longer profitable to make shoes by real hand (no shortcuts) if those prices are not taken.

 

[Enrile]

 

[The Shooman]

Our old mate must be making a killing having shoes made cheap and them putting horrendous markups on the shoes. Looks like fiberboard heels here:


Are most of his his shoes now made in Vietnam or something? No mattrer what, i'd be willing to bet he is paying those factories dirt cheap prices and the workers are probably being paid crumbs.

Our old mate loves alligator. Why? HUGE markups on the skins and shoes. Get them made cheap in third world countries and sell them for $$$$. Our mate could become very wealthy if he finds enough suckers. Sell alligator and crocadile and make maximum profit from maximum markups. I notice he doesn't show too many closeups of the shoes, but the workmanship doesn't appear to be too high.

He is now entering into the alligator clothing market. I'd be willing to bet they aren't made in Italy either. Have `em made by cheap labour and sell em for a fortune?



Why is he not telling us what country most of these things are made in?? If they were made in Italy he'd be boasting, but he is silent for the most part with no closeups of the wopkmanship. I'd be willing to bet most of these are made from slave labour in third world countries.


How do l know? Because when things are made in the USA or England he boasts about it.


Are these made in third world countries from clueless clothing makers? Look at how short the sleeves are and how big it is in the shoulders. These are clues these may not be made by traditional makers.